NaClH2OK9 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Hi Raiders. Checking the boat out today I found that I have an oil leek comming from what I imagine is the seal to the prop shaft. The engine is approaching service time too so I'm wandering if this is something I should tackle myself or tack it in to the shop? On the plus side I'm comfortable with spanners. On the negative side I have no experience with outboards ( how different can the be to any other petrol engines) but I do know that every setup will have its quirks and some jobs can just be a pig to do on the side of the road. I'm not even sure which 70 evinrude model this is ( which I will need to work out to get the equivalent to a haynes manual) Is anyone familiar with this model and can advise on the ease or pitfalls of tackling this myself? Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fragmeister Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Having spent a little time on the tools in one of my early jobs I would wonder whether a specialised tool might be required to remove or replace what looks like a damaged gearbox seal. It may be straight forward but my general strategy today is to leave it up the experts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Yea I'm wondering the same. Or something stupid like it can only be changed by dismantling the entire leg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Hi Raiders. Checking the boat out today I found that I have an oil leek comming from what I imagine is the seal to the prop shaft. The engine is approaching service time too so I'm wandering if this is something I should tackle myself or tack it in to the shop? On the plus side I'm comfortable with spanners. On the negative side I have no experience with outboards ( how different can the be to any other petrol engines) but I do know that every setup will have its quirks and some jobs can just be a pig to do on the side of the road. I'm not even sure which 70 evinrude model this is ( which I will need to work out to get the equivalent to a haynes manual) Is anyone familiar with this model and can advise on the ease or pitfalls of tackling this myself? Thanks Steve Since your asking how to change something as basic as seals perhaps you should let the guys deal with it at your next service to avoid screwups.Don't take this as having a go at you mate but even the basic jobs can become failures if not done correctly. I change seals by taping the shaft to avoid damage then either drilling 2 holes opposite each other and screwing 2 self taping screws and walking the seal off with a pair of pliers. Method 2 involves either using my seal removal tool or a pick or tiny prybar to get under the seal and pry it off. It depends on the application of what im working on. But be warned if you decide to have a go make sure the prop shaft is protected by wrappeding tape around it to avoid scratching/gouging where the seal rides. The same goes for when removing the seal avoid scratching/gouging the sealing surface on removal as if you damage either surface you could possibly have a leak still after replacing the seal with a new one. To install the seal I lubricate the lip of the seal with grease then just slip it over the splined prop shaft and very carefully gently tap the seal in a curcular motion to bed the seal down flush in it's seat. There's a million other ways to get the job done but this is as basic as I can make it for you. And as you say different engines gave their quirks but essentially a seal is a seal as much as a piston is a piston in any engine. If your not comfortable doing it yourself don't do it, give your bussiness to Huey or some other qualified person. Cheers. Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooker435 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Just wondering, have you been able to find a serial number anywhere on the Motor? if you can find the serial number for it you should be able to figure out what year it is. Theres heaps of info available both here and on the net. Id say leave this job for the experts if your not too confident but I would still try to get my hands on a book for any future maintence you may want to tackle. I had a old 1975 Evinrude 50 which I worked on quite a bit and it was not very hard to do work on it but again it depends on how confident you are. Regards, Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aussie007 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 theres nothing wrong with that engine its just leaking excess oil from the powerhead, if it was leaking from the seal the oil would look a milky white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 (edited) Yes I'm pretty confident with diy work ( mostly 4stroke engines) just not familiar with outboards. ( first boat) Aussie007 seems to be on the money ( cheers mate) . I've Google the assessment and it sounds exactly like it's black oil from the exhaust. I'll pull the prop tomorrow to be 100% Great advice guys. Edited November 29, 2014 by NaClH2OK9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooker435 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Good luck with it, be sure to get the serial number off it to work out what year it is. Regards, Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aussie007 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 its also a mid to late 1990's model nice engines in all sizes very reliable, does this one still have the oil injection hooked up? if your pre mixing the fuel/oil? u may be going a little to rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 The previous owner had the pump disconnected so I'm pre mixing 50:1 using caltex super outboard 3 ( not an expensive oil) again this is what last owner was using. It may be that I just took it for its longest outing last weekend sat to sun on the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocolate Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 On my boat I have twin 2 stroke Yamaha's 90 models, I had a leak to, Problem is due to the age of the motors there could be a problem with seizing/corrosion on the prop shaft area you need to work on and you may not be able to take of the prop shaft to put a new seal on , This is what happen to mine, Mine is only very small leak , Your leak seems a lot worse that mine, And yes I would be getting someone who does this type of work all the time , Cause if you stuff it up and hand it over to someone to fix you look like a fool, One more thing make shore you can get the part first before you start pulling it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) Thanks for your help guys. Aussie007 was correct. I pulled the prop and can see a small pool of black oil in the exhaust area. The shaft and seal are fine It's a BE70TLEDA so a 96 model ( no where near as old as I imagined) I'm currently looking for a manual but am slightly confused as some sites say run 50:1 but I've also found reference that the VRO (oil injection system) which has been disconnected ( seems a common mod to ensure there is no damage through failure) delivers at 100:1 I'll keep searching and wont be making changes untill I'm sure if this can be leaned out. Edited November 30, 2014 by NaClH2OK9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aussie007 Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 u can get workshop manuals all over the internet there will be 2-60hp and 65hp+ i think from memory, i had the manuals on my old computer i could have sent the manual to you but my comp died Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marky mark Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Hey Saltwater, yeah the gearbox oil will look milky or brown if you drop a seal. It might be a good time to drain the old gearbox oil anyway and replace, really simple job and the best way to be certain there is no leak. A good 90 w gear oil will work fine as a replacement. Pull out both of the bungs on the gearbox and let her drain dry keeping an eagle eye out for water (milky) in the oil. To refill get a squeeze bottle with a nozzle and fill from the bottom hole with the top bung out. When the fresh oil comes out the top whack the bottom bung back in, preferably with a fresh sealing washer, then put the top one back. Regarding mixture the VRO system will deliver variable rate oiling so the mixture would vary from 125:1 through to 40:1 or so depending on revs. 50:1 is a reasonable compromise but as you have found is a bit too oily for low revs and idling. I wouldn't go much lower than 50:1 on premix for most engines although I did have a CV30 Yammie a whiles back that ran on 100:1 all day long and never missed a beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Incredible Hull Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks for your help guys. Aussie007 was correct. I pulled the prop and can see a small pool of black oil in the exhaust area. The shaft and seal are fine It's a BE70TLEDA so a 96 model ( no where near as old as I imagined) I'm currently looking for a manual but am slightly confused as some sites say run 50:1 but I've also found reference that the VRO (oil injection system) which has been disconnected ( seems a common mod to ensure there is no damage through failure) delivers at 100:1 I'll keep searching and wont be making changes untill I'm sure if this can be leaned out. Good work mate! With all the knowledge on the internet (youtube, google) and especially Fishraider, you really can't go wrong in DIY stuff. Outboards are easy to service (easier than a car), PM me anytime buddy as I do my own servicing after much experimenting =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) Good advice Mark. This is my first 2stroke in almost 25 years ( and that was an older engine) when I passed my bike test and moved onto big Jap 4 strokes. Thanks Hull. Edited November 30, 2014 by NaClH2OK9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hi Steve, if someone has disconnected the oil injection, mix it at 50:1 and best to use XD-50 in that girl. This will be caused by the engine running cold so service the thermos and make sure it is coming upto temp at low speed and then use something like XD-50. Also important to fit the correct plugs, that is QL78YC if the model number is what you gave. I have seen all sorts of plugs in these I-3 engine. If you want to learn about the VRO (or correctly termed OMS) an article from a friend of mine, Mr Bill Grannis, will point you in the right direction and trust me ALOT of people in this industry could do well to read his article and understand it. Easy to fix and reliable, but it is like someone going to the doctor with a sore arm and instead of fixing the arm, the doctor cuts it off saying you have another one so you do not need that one. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Cheers Craig. Lol. I think the previous owner must have lost an engine at some point the way he was saying to never trust the oil pump. I'll discuss with you on Friday when I call and will definitely check plugs and change oil brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aussie007 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Cheers Craig. Lol. I think the previous owner must have lost an engine at some point the way he was saying to never trust the oil pump. I'll discuss with you on Friday when I call and will definitely check plugs and change oil brand. people just say that because u wont seize the engine due to lack of oil if u go pre mix, i much prefer oil injection where possible so much simplier pulling into a servo to fill up without having to look around the boat for the measuring cup pain in the ass! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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