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Boat flooring alternatives


SquidMarks

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We have had a few discussions on types of plywood and sealing methods for boat flooring, but we have not really explored other boat flooring options,

My floor is due to be replaced (the plywood is getting soggy/soft after 8 years now) and im looking at more permanent alternatives to plywood (that could be just as cost effective)

So far i have come up with:

1. Expanded polystyere sheets (im talking about the dense sheets here which are used in sign making and as pontoon floatation, not the crumbly polystyrene we think of generally), i have had some 20mm submerged in water for a while (weeks) with no observable effects. Solvents could be an issue which MIGHt eat away at the polystyrene so i have exposed some sheet to petrol, it seems to have had no immediate effect (no visible reaction as you would see with other traditional polystyrene foam).

2. White cutting board material (high density polyethylene sheets) ultimate stuff! a little on the heavy side and i believe the costs will be high

3. Aluminium decking, relatively cheap material which should last, the downside is the heat absorbed (and then released on your bare feet!) , but if we were sticking marine carpet or regupol over it then theres no problem right?

What other options/ suggestions do others have for this ongoing problem?

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We have had a few discussions on types of plywood and sealing methods for boat flooring, but we have not really explored other boat flooring options,

My floor is due to be replaced (the plywood is getting soggy/soft after 8 years now) and im looking at more permanent alternatives to plywood (that could be just as cost effective)

So far i have come up with:

1. Expanded polystyere sheets (im talking about the dense sheets here which are used in sign making and as pontoon floatation, not the crumbly polystyrene we think of generally), i have had some 20mm submerged in water for a while (weeks) with no observable effects. Solvents could be an issue which MIGHt eat away at the polystyrene so i have exposed some sheet to petrol, it seems to have had no immediate effect (no visible reaction as you would see with other traditional polystyrene foam).

2. White cutting board material (high density polyethylene sheets) ultimate stuff! a little on the heavy side and i believe the costs will be high

3. Aluminium decking, relatively cheap material which should last, the downside is the heat absorbed (and then released on your bare feet!) , but if we were sticking marine carpet or regupol over it then theres no problem right?

What other options/ suggestions do others have for this ongoing problem?

I crafted 2 mounts from a plastic white cutting board to use on my trailer to mount LED lights. They are forever being taken in and out of salt water. Still strong as anything.

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have a look at king starboard and there is another one similar cant remember the name of other one, comes in different thickness I used a 25mm thick peice as a bowsprit for the front of my boat. is white in colour and easy to cut, fit etc looks good as well

Edited by DavidA
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would the laminated glas crack when you encounter choppy conditions outside the bay (repeated banging over time), i understand the principle behind the laminate holding it together it just that the idea of glass chipping/crazing and cracking scares me a bit (again, im just guessing here and this is meant to be a discussion of options post).

King starboard is basically the cutting board material (high density polyethylene), yeah its great stuff! just expensive!

Carbo fiber sheets also look the goods but again, the price is the limiting factor.

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I put 3mm rubber strips along the floor supports and the glass.

Also had rubber bushes/washers through the drilled countersunk holes where I screwed it down to the floor supports.

What makes any glass strong is the edge work you put on it,if you have chips along the edge and it flexes it will run right across the sheet.

But now you flat grind or polish that edge because of the 45deg edges/arrises it makes it a hell of a lot stronger.

Next time your at the Sydney aquarium have a look at the glass tunnels that are holding back tremendous pressure.

There's buildings around that have glass catwalks that are under enormous loads also that do not crack.

All these are designed with either heat strengthened/toughened or laminated glass in various thicknesses.

Glass ranges in size from 3mm-19mm or even more if you want it custom laminated.

One job we did was 3 sheets of 19mm laminate laminated together giving a total of 57mm just to give you an idea.

Hope this helps.

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Is the glass cost effective fab? What standard do the sheets come in and how would we get it cut? Also, how much should a standard 1200 x 2400 sheet of 12 mm laminated glass set us back?

Just getting a rough idea of prices and procedures for this sort of thing.

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Is the glass cost effective fab? What standard do the sheets come in and how would we get it cut? Also, how much should a standard 1200 x 2400 sheet of 12 mm laminated glass set us back?

Just getting a rough idea of prices and procedures for this sort of thing.

Hi mate,a standard sheet of 12mm lam measures 5100x3660.

From there we can cut down to any size you'd like,polish or grind edges ,drill holes,put cut outs in to fit around ribs for example,mitre edges if you so wish etc,etc.

All you need to do is supply a drawing or template of what you want with all the dimensions,hole locations etc.

As for thickness,trust me 12mm is going overboard on any boat if you do what I said on my previous post both in cost,weight and over engineering.

I'd stay with the 6,38or 6,52the 6,52has a thicker inner layer which in essence is nylon sandwiched between the 2 panes of glass giving it slightly less flex than the 6,38.

If you like pm me what your after and I'll get a price of the sales team when I return to work on Monday.

Cheers.

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  • 1 month later...

I used ALUKABOND


ALUCOBOND® PE is a light composite material consisting of two aluminium cover sheets and a core made of polyethylene.


As a light composite material, ALUCOBOND® PE can be used for corporate identity designs, low rise developments such as those you would find in the industry, refurbishments and transportation sectors. It is the ideal material for façade cladding, awnings and fascias.


ALUCOBOND® PE is stable and yet flexible, has a smooth surface and is available in a number of standard or custom colours. It is weather-resistant, unbreakable, shock-resistant, vibration absorbent & easy to install

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  • 10 months later...

Sorry for digging up old thread but i came across it whilst researching marine ply alternatives.

My floors need replacing and im thinking of changing from carpet to regupol,

Thing im concerned about is glueing the expensive regupol onto marine ply and not being able to get it off once floor needs replacing again.

So im considering using HDPE sheets cut to size instead of the ply (havent priced the material yet so may be in for a shock),

My question is what thickness of the PE sheets would be best to replace 12mm ply and will glue stick to it?

Also Squidmarks if you see this would love to hear what you ended up doing.

Cheers,

Lee.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Lee,

i have since replaced the floor with 4mm marine grade ally sheets with regupol. (the ally platewere about half the price of sourcing hdpe though i believe the hdpe would be the better option).

I have used regupols 2 part adhesive.

The floor does flex a little with the 4mm aluminium plate but i never need to replace the floor again so all in all im happy!

i have another post with the whole pricess on here, just dig around the last couple of pages.

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