jgrant666 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Hi fellow raiders. We just bought a new boat, a 4.6m half cab with 70hp Johnson on the back. On our first trip out we made the ultimate mistake and forgot the bloody bungs! In the mad scramble to get it back on the trailer the transducer for the sounder has come off...... It was just screwed onto a piece of wood which then seemed to be stuck to the hull with some sort of double sided tape or something (see below) - I was wondering what the best type of marine adhesive would be to stick it back onto the hull? Also, the contacts on the battery look a tad corroded and the wiring in general looks a bit dodgy, plus none of the running lights are connected so I was hoping someone could recommend a decent marine electrician or fitout place who could help with fixing up the wiring plus maybe adding a fuse & switch panel for the lights and any other goodies I might want to add? Thanks for your help in advance as I'm sure this post will be the first of many! Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Transducers are designed to be screwed onto the transom ... Use Stainless Screws only .. A couple of 6 gauge screws of no longer than 10mm in length is all that is needed . But make sure you set it the correct position from the bottom of the hull ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad_tate Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 I would not recommend any form of adhesive in a marine environment, let alone the stern of a boat subject to physical stress when underway. Drill and screw with good quality stainless fittings and make sure whatever you drill into has sufficient strength to hold well. Perhaps use a plastic backing plate with (reasonably fine) bolts, washers and nylon nuts - all stainless. I use a local dealer for all my boat work - expensive but good quality work. I did have my old boat worked on several years ago and the work there was excellent - aluminium re-welding not electrics, but I'm sure he can cover other bases. PM me if you want either contacts. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Thanks guys, was hoping not to have to pierce Tue hull, but I suppose with liberal doses of sealant either side it would be ok I may still try an adhesive first though just to try and position it, I've yet to use it so not sure if the spot it was in was the right place? Any recommendations for something that would last a trip or two so I can test it before mounting permanently? Tastee - yes please do pm your local contact :-) Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolongeramember Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 It looks like in your pictures the transducer is attached to the piece of wood and that wood has come off the boat. You can stick it back on with an adhesive called Sikaflex. That's what I use and transducers stay put and no holes in the boat and no unused extra holes when you take something off and install something new or move something to a different location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 It looks like in your pictures the transducer is attached to the piece of wood and that wood has come off the boat. You can stick it back on with an adhesive called Sikaflex. That's what I use and transducers stay put and no holes in the boat and no unused extra holes when you take something off and install something new or move something to a different location.That sounds like what I'm after, thanks mate. I'll try that first and if the sounder works well mount it permanently! Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz_brett Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 you do have the second option of mounting the transducer inside the hull being a glass boat though you do lose the water temp option. As for the wiring I find itd best if you can do it your self or get some one that knows what they are doing to show you how to do it, when something goes wrong then you know how to fix it. Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmk1962 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Agree with oz_brett you have the option to install inside the hull....I have the transducer mounted inside my glass hull and "shooting thru"... FYI I have not found I have lost temp reading. Mine is a deep V hull and the transducer is mounted deep in the well just before the bungs where there is always some water... there is another topic started by VViCKiD (Transducer Installation) where I summarized my experiences comparing the temp reads at this point vs outside water. But you have to be sure your hull bottom is solid glass and there is no plywood or other sandwich material between the transducer and the water - just fiberglass ..... I have outlined in the other post how to test if your hull is suitable. If you are interested to discuss how to do the installation - PM me your mobile and I will text you a few times that I am available in between work. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Agree with oz_brett you have the option to install inside the hull....I have the transducer mounted inside my glass hull and "shooting thru"... FYI I have not found I have lost temp reading. Mine is a deep V hull and the transducer is mounted deep in the well just before the bungs where there is always some water... there is another topic started by VViCKiD (Transducer Installation) where I summarized my experiences comparing the temp reads at this point vs outside water. But you have to be sure your hull bottom is solid glass and there is no plywood or other sandwich material between the transducer and the water - just fiberglass ..... I have outlined in the other post how to test if your hull is suitable. If you are interested to discuss how to do the installation - PM me your mobile and I will text you a few times that I am available in between work. Cheers. Wow thanks mate, it's a fairly old boat so I'm not sure if it's plain glass or if it's got a layer of ply. Brand is sportsman craft but haven't been able to find much about it on google Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Wow thanks mate, it's a fairly old boat so I'm not sure if it's plain glass or if it's got a layer of ply. Brand is sportsman craft but haven't been able to find much about it on google Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Will definitely check out the other post you mentioned tomorrow and consider it :-) Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VViCKiD Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Ur transducer looks pretty small and light. What I've done in the past was use a plastic chopping board as a mounting board. That way, you drill only 4 holes. It comes in handy if u want to mount more than one transducer. Make sure u apply silicon to the back of the board before screwing it in. I just used standard outdoors silicon from Bunnings. I really can't tell the difference between than and marine grade besides the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Sorry guys another query, what's the best method for cleaning battery contacts? Got a bit of corrosion probably from the bungs incident..... I think I read somewhere a bit of bicarb in some water and a wire brush? Also do you need a special jigsaw blade for glass? Gonna try mounting a fuse & switch panel for the accessories myself Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amkr Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Those terminals don't look too bad. Bi-Carb and a brush is what I've used in automotive applications before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad_tate Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) I have a terminal cleaner I bought from an auto parts store donkeys years ago. It's about 2 inches long, has a short wire brush on one end with a metal cap that slides over it for storage. The other end has what I can only describe as an inside-out brush. It is a series of fine wires (same as wires on the brush), but all packed together into a circle with a hole in the middle - the wires all point into the centre of the hole if that makes sense. You slip this over the terminal and twist it back and forth to clean the outside of the terminal. Once done coat lightly with Vaseline. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited October 7, 2015 by Tastee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 @Oz_Brett - Decided to take your advice and try and do some of the wiring myself! @amkr / Tastee Cleaned up the battery terminals with bicard & wire brush and they're looking much better now...... I'm curious though, on each terminal are 2 heavy contacts (the ones with the yellow sleeves in the attached pics) which I assume are for the power trim and engine starter, plus 2 smaller ones. One of those I would imagine is for the sounder but I've no idea what the other one would be for, and would rather not have to trace all of the cabling back from the engine to the driving console to find out! My aim is to install a simple triple switch & fuse panel, with one switch for the anchor/allround light, one for the red & green sidelights, and one for the sounder, cabin light, and possible future accessories like a stereo or marine radio. To save on running new cable do you think the existing cable that's there for the sounder would be sufficient to hold that kind of load if I just cut it and connected it as the input source for the switch panel, then ran a new cable from the required switch on the panel and connected it up where I'd cut the initial sounder cable? If not I'll have to bite the bullet and run a new source cable from the panel back to the battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amkr Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 From my understanding, the two terminals are so you can run dual battery setups. Won't make any difference what electronics you run off which posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locodave Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Hey mate, Check out the bluesea systems! Awesome! Do you already have a power stud or bus? A place where all the +ve and -ve go? Have a look of what I have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amkr Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 That's bloody tidy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 @Locodave - is that for a boat or an aircraft carrier ?!?! Impressive work! Nah I don't have anything like that, it's an older boat and atm literally everything is running straight off the battery. Well I say everything but it's just the motor, power trim and sounder - the nav lights & cabin light weren't hooked up when I bought it........ That setup is pretty impressive but might be a bit of overkill in my case as all I really plan to run is the lights plus the sounder of course and maybe a stereo or VHF down the track. I figure a single combined basic 3 or 4 switch & fuse panel up front where all the gear is anyway will be sufficient for my needs? Not looking to spend a fortune since it's our first boat (and the missus might kill me!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locodave Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Thanks guys. But i assure you, as you start to gain more experience and fall in love with the water, you will add more gear. Do it right the first time and you will be adding things real easy. You might add: Led strip lights Front spot light 12v socker Underwater lights Stereo Who knows. Switch panels are good too, the 6gang is my favourite with the built in 12v socket. Comes in handy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad_tate Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Firstly I am not a marine electrician so if others disagree with anything I say, please chip in. The two connection points on the battery are just for convenience. It doesn't really matter what is connected to what. This is done due to different connection styles in accessories. The simplest setup for a (crank) battery in a bigger boat with an alternator needs two connections. The first is to the bilge pump to provide 24x7 power. This may not physically come off the battery, it may be daisy chained off the input to the isolator switch, see below. The second is to an isolator switch. This powers two more circuits. The first and heaviest cable is to the engine. This supplies the power for the spark (highest amp draw so thickest cable for least resistance), and the alternator charge circuit back to the battery. This is all you need for your motor - it has it's own internal isolator for the trim and tilt. The next is the house circuit to which you connect your sounder, radio, lights, bait well etc. You typically turn the isolator switch off when the boat is off the water or moored and unattended to stop unwanted battery drain. All circuits connect directly to the battery for the common draw (earth). Finally if you have an electric trolling motor this needs to be on a separate circuit and deep cycle battery. You can use a DC-DC charger off the crank battery to top up the deep cycle if you want (I do this). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited October 8, 2015 by Tastee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrant666 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 It looks like in your pictures the transducer is attached to the piece of wood and that wood has come off the boat. You can stick it back on with an adhesive called Sikaflex. That's what I use and transducers stay put and no holes in the boat and no unused extra holes when you take something off and install something new or move something to a different location.Sikaflex did the trick thanks Roylo :-) transducer stayed put nicely and helped to put us onto a couple of good drop offs! Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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