The Iceman Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 Very interesting read and a good reason to change your leader before each trip and maybe after a big fish http://activeanglingnz.com/2016/01/04/the-fluorocarbon-myth/
Camo1808 Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 Im no professional but ever since i have been lure fishing i have found it significantly better. I disagree to the fact it says its the same visibility in the water. I believe fluro is much harder to see. All lines break the same way under strain. Hence why they invented drag. I reckon he could of lost it due to having drag too tight. If the drag was a big looser the line wouldnt of been as tight for when it did rub the rail it may not of had the same breaking way. As i said im no professional but this is my opinion. Interestint read. I will be following this topic hahah Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Adsy91 Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 Very interesting indeed! Might try some mono leader as opposed to flouro next time
Guest Guest123456789 Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) Very interesting read and a good reason to change your leader before each trip and maybe after a big fish http://activeanglingnz.com/2016/01/04/the-fluorocarbon-myth/ Thanks for sharing. If this is true I feel so silly and ripped off. I've spent a fortune on fluro. Edited January 23, 2016 by Guest123456789
Nolongeramember Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 I have never believed fluorocarbon is any less visible than normal mono. I've tested both side by side underwater plenty of times and there is no difference. I believe my own eyes.
Yowie Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 I tried fluoro spooled onto my whiting reel and rod once. 6 pound fluoro instead of 6 pound mono. Busted off on 2 whiting and not big ones at that. The only knot is the hook, a running 00 ball sinker directly on top of the hook. The line did not break at the knot, it broke above the fish as I could see them swimming near the boat. Pissed off, so I tried holding the fluoro between my hands to see how much effort it took to break, and the same with the mono. The 6 pound mono took much more effort to break than the 6 pound fluoro, the fluoro seemed to have about two-thirds the strength of the mono. Tried that at several different areas along the line, including line not used during the fishing trip. Result, fluoro stripped off the reel and thrown into the bin, will not bother with it again. Continuing with mono only, and I don't use braid either, as I use handlines at different times.
brad_tate Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 I use Flouro leaders on all my rods and am happy with them. I don't have any solid evidence about abrasion resistance or visibility, but so far so good. Sink rate is definitely better. Knot strength is an issue for some knots. I haven't noticed any problems with my uni or loop knots to terminal tackle, but have changed back to mono for my twisted droppers as the less flexible Flouro does not suit them. When I tested them, the Flouro broke at about 30% less pull than the Mono, and always at the knot. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yowie Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Yowie you don't use braid because the braid would cut your fingers and hands when wet handlining which would make sense. Correct Swordie. On my reels I use a thin diameter mono with high abrasion resistance, such as Sufix brand. For hand lines I use a reasonable brand of mono.
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