Water Separator Fuel Filter - Advice Sought

[JustJames]

Hi All

 

I am about to change the water separating fuel fillter on my boat (150 four stroke Mercury, for what that's worth).

 

The existing fuel filter is a Quicksilver 35-802893Q01 which is a canister type filter.  Fining a Sierra cross reference is easy enough, but I think I would prefer a filter with a separate bowl so that I can inspect it and see if it is catching any water, and drain any water that it catches.

 

First question, how do I find a cross reference to a filter with a bowl?

 

Second question, are there any reasons why you think I should avoid a bowl type filter and stay with a canister type filter?

[noelm]

The clear bowl type filters are much better, but….I think the actual fitting the filter screws on to is different, you might have to buy a complete setup, they are about $70 or so.

[dunc333]

im with Noelm here buy a whole new filter setup .clear bowl with drain  tap, .peace of mind and always use clean non ethaonol fuel cheers dunc333

[JustJames]

15 hours ago, noelm said:

...you might have to buy a complete setup, they are about $70...

Turns out about half of that on a well known auction site, with an industry standard fuel filter.

 

It is possible to buy replacement filter plus bowl which will fit the existing setup, but (for reasons that I do not understand) it is way cheaper to buy the fitting, filter and bowl all together.

 

So that gets added to the List Of Tasks.

 

Thank you both. 

[JonD]

Just be aware that the tap on those clear bowl filters is very flimsy and if its kept close to the floor where a thrashing fish tail or a big foot can knock it you will need to do repairs tog get running again. The thread only needs a gentle tighten on the tap. I carry a spare bottom bowl incase of any mishaps.

[JustJames]

Thanks Jon.  On my boat the fuel filter is tucked well away in the stern of the boat, behind the rear seats.

[noelm]

1 hour ago, JustJames said:

Turns out about half of that on a well known auction site, with an industry standard fuel filter.

 

It is possible to buy replacement filter plus bowl which will fit the existing setup, but (for reasons that I do not understand) it is way cheaper to buy the fitting, filter and bowl all together.

 

So that gets added to the List Of Tasks.

 

Thank you both. 

Just be aware, there is a lot of rubbish filters being offered online, (even with the printing of brand names looking exactly the same) most either leak, or are nothing more than a tin can with no “filter” material inside. I have come across two now, and it’s been well debated on US sites. Not suggesting anything with your purchase, but “buyer beware”

[JustJames]

2 minutes ago, noelm said:

Just be aware, there is a lot of rubbish filters being offered online, (even with the printing of brand names looking exactly the same) most either leak, or are nothing more than a tin can with no “filter” material inside. I have come across two now, and it’s been well debated on US sites. Not suggesting anything with your purchase, but “buyer beware”

Thanks Noel - I'll report back on what I get.

[JustJames]

Some feedback....

 

As ever, the seemingly simple jobs take all of the effort.

 

My Ebay setup arrived, and looked acceptable.  For around $30 I bought a fuel filter with clear bowl attached to a filter head.  The filter looked unremarkable, but I preferred to have a branded filter, which I bought from one of the big retailers for this sort of thing.  Easy peasy I thought, I'll just take the old fuel filter off and fit the new filter (with bowl) and all will be well in the world.

 

The old filter would not budge.  I used a filter removal tool with a socket wrench and all I could do was dent the old filter.  It wouldn't budge.  Not even when I used the strongest words that I know.  So I ended up using the new filter head.  And I needed to raise the filter by a few cm to allow the bowl to fit.  I used a piecce of 5mm alu, which I attached to the boat in the same site as the original filter head was installed.  The spare connection points (the brass bits on the left below) needed some thread sealing, because after running the engine, the residual pressure was causing some fuel seepage which is not ideal. 

 

Although the filter installation looks very exposed in the pic, the rear bench seats form a barrier between the deck and this part of the boat so it will be completely tucked away when in use.

 

Thanks to all who weighed in with suggestions.

 

 

[dunc333]

good job james your good to go now.abit of engine oil on the filter thread will make it easier to remove next time

 

[BaitDropper]

Yeah, looking good there, great job.

They definitely are the better type to get, same brand filter as mine. I take it you can still turn the tap underneath to drain it if necessary ?  hard to see with that Pic.

I'm just about to fit the same set up for my fuel tank breather hose, I remember a bloke telling me he used to do that for years, the clear bowl also gives you the chance to see any fuel coming out the breather when filling, before it makes a mess 😁, plus the fact it works the same as looping your breather hoses before exiting...

Looking good tho James.

[noelm]

11 hours ago, BaitDropper said:

Yeah, looking good there, great job.

They definitely are the better type to get, same brand filter as mine. I take it you can still turn the tap underneath to drain it if necessary ?  hard to see with that Pic.

I'm just about to fit the same set up for my fuel tank breather hose, I remember a bloke telling me he used to do that for years, the clear bowl also gives you the chance to see any fuel coming out the breather when filling, before it makes a mess 😁, plus the fact it works the same as looping your breather hoses before exiting...

Looking good tho James.

Not too sure I understand what you mean. You saying you are fitting a water trap and filter on the air vent line? I can’t quite grasp why that is worth the effort or the necessity.

[BaitDropper]

I'll soon find out Noel, In fact it was someone from the " other forum 😁, that recommended it to me, said it cure his " spit back" he was having while filling, he too didn't have the room to loop the breather hoses underneath and recommended to me what he did. I would have to check, but I "think" it was " Digs" if you follow.  Because of my transom lift, I have no room to loop, I can basically keep filling the underfloor tank, until full flow out the breather, as one of my friends did, when he was paying for my fuel and I was chatting to someone.  It supposedly stopped all his spitting out the breather when he installed. I have an extra filter set up, I have the space, so nothing ventured, nothing gained as the saying goes..

 

Edited November 6, 2023 by BaitDropper

[JustJames]

17 hours ago, dunc333 said:

good job james your good to go now.abit of engine oil on the filter thread will make it easier to remove next time

 

That's an interesting suggestion.

 

I used some oil on the seal and the o-ring, and I think that the old filter had stuck to the housing via the rubber seal, but I will definitely use that suggestion next time I tackle the job.

[BaitDropper]

Yes, with all those spin on filters, a small smear of oil over the rubber seal, is a must do.

With the filter service period, it will unscrew easily. It doesn't need to be wound on with great force either, that's a big mistake people make.

I think I have said to you once before James, those 150 Merc's are a great engine....

[JustJames]

2 minutes ago, BaitDropper said:

James, those 150 Merc's are a great engine

 

Delighted with mine so far.  It had around 36 hours on it when I got it, but about 10 years, and I don't know what the service history was on it.  It looked very much like this was its first fuel filter.  I have a service kit on order with all of the things, so it will get oil and filter, impeller and gear oil.