kingpig

Hi mate sorry to here your problem. One thing to see is if the con rods have a small weep hole from the web between the big end and small end beaing jurnals. Some motors have a small hole that allows residual oil sitting in this recess to flow into the small end. If the piston are assembled the wrong way up this hole faces down and no oil goes into the small end and this is big problem. I once had a 55 evindurde do something similar and i rebuilt it myself. I modified the small end so it did not have a cage they were needle rollers and instead of having say 10 needles and a cage i ended with about 18 needles. It was difficult to assembe but never gave me any grief in the 10 years i ran this engine after rebuild. Good Luck

Mate The river is a different matter. I have sent lots of hours over many years fishing this river and know it like the back of my hand from Manning Point up to say Croki. What would you like to target? I have been across the SWR entry plenty of times its easy compaired to the Harrington one.

Hi Yes I have and unless you know it or have a local guy that has been across it before do not try it. It is difficult to get an idea of this bar and it moves around. The only way to look at it from high enough to see is off the breakwall at Harrington. The Manning Point side is to low. The entry used to run along the Harringing Wall side and then you needed to go south then out again. Its a long bar crossing as well. Some of the local guys go through there a fair bit and you may get some advice from them if you go the Bowling Club and ask them. I know Crowdy is a fair way around but this bar is a ripper. Cheers Kingpig

Aluminium reacts well with caustic solitions. If you can get some sodiun hydroxide and dilute it just try a small point with an art brush to see if it does the job before doing the whole deck. Maybe bleach would do the same thing. It should dull the surface a fair bit. Another thought is try a small bit with an etch primer for aluminium and then wash it off to see what effect you get.

Hi mate If you want to fish smaller rivers and streams in NZ then the 6wt would be the go. If your thinking of fishing Tongaria or the bigger river systems and lakes then I would go to 8wt. Line class depends on the rod size but i think i would up the line size buy 1. So if you buy a 6wt then go 7wt line, 8wt rod 9wt line. This will help with casting specially if your beginning. I would suggest the line type for this style fishing is float weight forward or even shooting head. A slatwater fly reel has a drag system and you fight the fish from the reel just like any other other type of rod reel combo. A fresh water reel just holds the line and you would usually fight the fish using the line running between your fingers. But for flathead and bream and bass this doent matter. It does if you get to kings and salmon and other fast moving units. The line for saltwater fishing is diffeent though because you most likely would want a intermediate sinking line depending on how deep you want to fish it and how quickly you wan the fly to sink. Cheers and good luck waving that wand.

Nice. Good fish for your first. They do know how to find a weak spot in your gear though. Cheers Kingpig

Isnt this a Saurie. Thay are a smallish oceanic garfish species. You sometimes see them skipping across the water surface beng chased.

I cast a lot of unweighted bait from pillies to prawns. I have a bent tip rod for this purpose. The bend in the tip gives it extra flick and shots to bait further. I use the rod with lead as well and it suits this purpose just as good.

I would not assume its the motor yet. Cut the wires running to the motor and with a set of jumper leads connected to the battery apply direct power and see if the motor runs. This will tell you if the motor is faulty or you do not have enough current to run the motor. Do not run it long like this it will heat up very quickly. Just test it for a few seconds. I have an evinrude with the same symtoms as well. Cheers

Before you try anything else grease the pivot positions the motor turns on. There will be grease nipples on the leg and the steering arm to grease. Then get someone to turn the steering wheel and try to push the engine right and left buy hand as they turn the wheel back and forward. See if it starts to free up.

I had the shackle undo on one of mine so i drilled 1.5mm holes thought and put stainless split pins in. I use a screw down type carabenia that i tighten with pliers. So far three years ok on anchors lost and i can change from sand to rock picks quick with a set of multigrips. Cheers Kingpig

Hey guys. Some time ago i had and issue with the tilt and trim on my Evenrude 115 Fitch engine. Its a 2000 model. I got it going after replacing the pump motor. Now i have an electrical problem that is very similar to the original issue but its not the pump. Does anyone have a schematic daigram for the electical system of this engine. Just the tilt and trim part will do. I can find parts schematics but not electrical. Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Kingig

I use my I phone with a Navtronics App form ITunes for $15. Its very good.

Hi It really depends on how you want to go about extending the rod. If you only want more length from the reel seat to the butt end. Then you can do this by adding a wooden piece straight into the butt. If you are looking to put a fibre glass piece over the rod, then the rod will need to be stripped and the piece slid over the rod and glued in place. For the cost of doing the last option you may be better to get a 5144 Synder blank and start again. You end up with two rods then. I use a 4144 on the beach it is my mid range rod but for light fishing i use a cut down blackfish rod i think it was a MT 5120G Butterworth. Have fun with what ever you decide. Cheers Kingpig

when you pump the primer bulb does it spring back into shape or stay squashed up?

We used to fish for them a lot at night with yabbies in the Manning River. I used to fish on the end of jetties near the poles but had better luck towards low tide when the fish could not into shallow rocky areas or under oyster leases. Cheers Kingpig

In a fast current situation a berley bomb can be a usefull tool. I use a very easy one it consisted of a plastic washing up bottle. Round approx 75mm diameter. 1 Large Snapper lead and strong cord. Cut the bottom from the bottle. put the cord through the top and tie the sinker to it. Put the cap on and secure it. Put your berley in the bottle and drop it in the water with the open end up. Some of the contents will trickel out but thats ok. When it hits the bottom pull the cord a few times and the berley comes out on the bottom. Cheers Kingpig

Hi mate I have fished this area a lot. Spinner baits in purple are good. If you want a hard body then get a Tylsan Bass in Jaffa colour. Cheers Kingpig

HI mate Alvey are a good no nonesence reel. Low maintenance good casting if your rod is set up for one properly. The first stripping guide needs to be fair way up the rod with the ferrel eye very large. This will allow free line movement as it comes of the spool in big loops and also help stop the line slapping against the rod. Both of these issues will result in dramatically reduced cast distance. The one problem with them in my opinion is they intorduce a lot of line twist. You can try to reduce it by using two good ball swivells in your rig but you will get it. I usually run the line off my reel and let the twist out after every trip. Cheers Kingpig

I will start off but i bet i dont get it right. Tides are generated by the gravitational effect of the moon. As we get closer the tides get bigger and reverse when we move away. This happens in cycles just like the seasons happen as we travel around the sun each year. Tides do it every 27 days (i think). So while the gravitational force of the moon is pulling the water of the earth towards it, the tide rises. The force that is generated buy tidal flow is the same as any other force if you apply it the only thing that will slow it down is if another force acts on it (Thank Mr Newton for that one). The resisting forces are generated by the friction of the things that the tide runs against, (rock, bottom and riverbanks) and the incline in altitude as the water flows upstream. The incomeing water has inertia that is it takes time to stop when it is running fast, just like when you apply the barkes on your car. The negitive acceleration works against the inertia to stop you. Same with the tide, the frictional forces take time to overcome the force of the tidal flow. There you go bet im wrong all together. Now while you contemplating that one. If the tide is made by the moon, and the moon goes around the earth once a day, why are there 2 high tides in every day. Cheers Kingpig

Not sure barracutta are poisonous, barracudda are. These are not the same fish the last one is a tropical fish that sometimes has ciguatera. Barracutta live in colder water and can be a real pain if in lager numbers like described here. Cheers Kingpig

If you look at places that have water front eating where people throw stuff in the water for fish they are there all the time. Regular feeding brings fish in. Look at Neds Beach on Lord Howe Island get my fly rod arm quivering. Cheers Kingpig

Abb gut was the gun. Now i only use prawns. I usually get the uncooked peeled red prawns frozen from the supermarket. They are not that expensive and you dont pay for heads and shell. I love pigs.

Mate Have you tried looking at Clark Rubber they have lots of different sections.

Hi My mate has just done his savage Osprey in the last couple of months. I think there is a thread on here about it. He did not want carpet but wanted a textured finish for easy of cleaning. He purchased a type of paint that was rubber based and fully sealed the ply using only a standard grade. There are plenty of colours to chose from and the product is very good. Cheers