impulse

It may be as simple as a poor earth connection. Some trailers rely on the negative (or earth) to come through via the trailer body (tow ball to car connection) while most have a separate negative (earth) wire from the trailer plug. To test connect a wire from the car body to the trailer body making sure you have a good connection on both sides, better still run the wire to the LED light. If it works you will need to trace all the earth connections and make sure they are connected properly.

Thanks mate, great to "catch" up (thanks to FaceBook), we also drifted along the beach around the rowing club for NOTHING. Dont like the new pontoon at Picnic Point (still full of idiots), how the hell are you supposed to step on & off without a ladder. Need to do a night fish sometime.

This is my baitboard that i built for my Haines Signature 492F http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showpost....amp;postcount=8 From this thread http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=68873 And if you log into the old achieve found here this is a large thread http://www.ausfish.com.au/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159823596/0 I have the name of the company that i bought the board from in Sydney so please IM me

I might as well add my thoughts and practical experience, Tinned cable will not corrode as fast but will corrode over time if you don't do regular maintenance. When you crimp or use screw down terminals they will damage the "tinned" layer and expose the copper to the salt air which will start to break down (if you let it). I spray all my wiring looms with Lanox (Inox with Lanolin). The Lanolin (from wool producing animals like sheep) is an excellent water repellent and will slow corrosion down to almost nothing. As for not using solder for screw down terminals I would disagree as the soldier will hold the cores together and allow the screw terminal to bite down on the full conductor and not break or damage some of the cores. If you break or only clamp on some of the cable cores it will effect the current capacity of the cable. I will agree that you don't solder the cable if you are using crimps as this is a no no, the same as you would never crimp a solid core conductor. What happens is that the crimping action will crush the solid core or the soldered core out of shape and greatly increase the chance of breaking the wire at the crimped point. If you solder your connections then make sure you twist the wires tightly together first then solder them. I use standard flexible non tinned cable with crimps, screw terminals and solider joints with no sign of corrosion at all (sprayed with Lanox every other month or so).

I'm sure you will but don't forget to put in a fuse inline with the lights if your positive wire comes straight off the main battery supply. If you have a "hour" running gauge on the boat you could connect the new switch and fuse from there so they will only come on with the motor, or better still trace the hour gauge wire back to its common point as you may find some sought of bussbar and connect your new wire there.

mmmmm i hope you have a good power filter, Oscar's are animals when it comes to feeding. They are great fish as i had 4 in a 800L tank and become very tame, i could "pat" them and they seem to like it. I now have a 1000L Chiclids tank mounted inside my lounge room wall, all the plumbing is in the garage which tidies up the look.

Well put, but as stated they do taste great, haven't seen many in Botany Bay but they may come in later.

Morning fellow fish'os just wanted to report a great day on Batany Bay. All started watching the weather (ain't it been shit lately ). Ask my mum if she wanted to go on the bay on her last day of holidays and her answer of yes was fast then a nipper going down the gob of a bream. Hit the Cooke River ramp at 9ish (a bit late) and it was pissing down. Thought that this was a mistake but mum needed the break. We also noticed that most had already hit the water, with only 1 spot left which i quickly grabbed. Heading out into the bay in the driving rain you couldn't see the other side, water was smooth but it was dark. Turned on the nav lights (paid the price later ). Got out just past the 1st runway to find an armada of boats, drifting, anchored, underway, it was a mess but obviously they all wanted to be there which is where i wanted to be also. So we joined the end of the queue and drifted towards Brighton-Le-Sands. We managed the following fish in about 4 hours with some throw backs, including lots of small Tailor and some Whiting. BUT We also managed to kill the battery twice in that time as I left the Nav lights on. Normally this would not be a problem but the battery wasn't charged since its installation. Luckily I always take my trusty portable jump starter which did the job and did it well. This was a relatively new battery but I don't think it was fully charged. I have since check with a hydrometer and found 2 cells heavily discharged, recharging now and will check again as the cells could be damaged beyond repair. Catch 4 x Dusky Flathead (Smallest 36cm, Largest 44cm) 1 x Snapper 33cm Where Botany Bay (Drifting) When 09:00-13:00 (2 hours either side of high tide) Conditions NW-ENE winds 7-15 Knots, Water Slight to Moderate Gear Shimano Stradic 2500, Ugly Stick, 4lb Firewire with 15lb Leader, Hook 1/0, small ball sinker running to the hook. (Flatheads) Shimano Boat 8-10Kg, TR 200-G, 20lb with 40lb Leader, ganged hook. (Flathead) Shimano ET Light action, Shakespeare Clearwater, 4lb with 15lb leader, 2 hook, ball sinker running to hook. (Snapper) Bait Peeled prawn, Freshly caught squid (most caught on prawn)

Thought about it but couldn't really see the paying public trying to fish out of the front hatch. Thought I'd post the rest of the days catch here

The beautiful wife and I anchored near the oil wharf just looking for what came along (as they say a day on the water is better then cleaning the toilet ). Anyways out goes the herly and after about 15min the bites started on the humble peeled prawn (Aldi) and in comes the first of two Trevally's but it tangles around the herly bucket and gone. I was spitting as No 1 son loves the Trevally over any other fish caught in the bay, go figure? Then the Stadic starts bouncing all over the place with lots of head shakes (thought it was a little red) but there was some weight, then I think "foul hooked the bugger" and i was dragging it in sideways. As it got closer I saw it was a decent redy, grab the net and in comes a 33cm legal and tasty Snapper (I wasn't complaining). Next came the wifes Dusky with the old saying "I lost it", then the "Oh Shit" its a flathead. After that she brings in her own Snapper coming in at 31cm with the new Sedona working well. The rest of the fish where a Bream, Flounder, Trevally, not a bad feed and No 1 son got his big Trevally which filleted nicely. The Gear Bait: Full Peeled Prawn Hook: 2/0 (Sinker running free to hook) Reel: Stradic 2500 & Sedona 2500 Line: 4lb Firewire with 15lb Leader / 6lb Firewire with 15lb Leader Rod: Ugly Stick / Shimano Where: The Oil Wharf; Botany Bay. When: 24 Feb 08 Tide: Run out (1hour after high) Weather: Overcast 11:30 ish

Thanks for the great comments, the weekend after we did catch some legal snapper well inside the bay. 1 x 33cm Snapper 1 x 31cm Snapper 1 x 45cm Trevally 1 x 37cm Flathead 1 x 27cm Bream Not monsters but beautiful on the table grilled in foil on the BBQ with a bit of butter, lemon, salt & pepper.

Went out on the bay and caught this thumper. The fight was truly amazing. Bait: Full Prawn Hook: 2/0 (Sinker running free to hook) Reel: Stradic 2500 Line: 6lb Firewire with 15lb Leader Rod: Ugly Stick Where: The Bearing Sea; Botany Bay.

I just bought one for my wife and tested it today on Botany Bay on a legal Snapper and Dusky and it went like a charm. Drag was so much smoother then the Areo and for the $$ it feels similar to my Stradic 2500 I picked it up for $85.

Great timing to raise this point, On Saturday the family and I were heading back to the ramp on Parramatta River and saw a shocking sight, there was a new Haines Hunter laying on the boat ramp about 20m from the water. There were a couple of people landing a hand but they needed more. I pushed in front of the 4 boats that were on a holding patten trying to get to the pontoon (the guy in front of me wasn't happy but if it was him i bet he wouldn't complain!) I jumped out and help put the 5.3m back onto the trailer. The damage was minimal but a lot of gel coat was on the ramp. Even after winching it back on i was shocked by the next comment I heard "you don't need the safety chain on while your reversing down just as long as the winch is locked" ALWAYS, ALWAYS have the safety chain on at all times. As soon as lent a hand I jumped back into my boat and went to the back of the line on the water. By the time i was reversing my own trailer down to pick up my boat the owner/friend of the Haines Hunter was standing at the bottom of the ramp trying to hold it steady in 10-15Kn winds so down i went again to help push it to the pontoon. The guy that i pushed in front of on the ramp was on the other lane, he didn't even help the guy waist high in the water. I went to drive my boat from the pontoon to the trailer and noticed the owner trying to work out how the safety catch went on the ignition so i offered to lend a hand and jumped in. After a quick chat off they went after there big first day. Now I'm not trying to hang tickets on myself but I seemed to be the only one that took the time to show these obvious first timers some basics, there were at least 6 other boaties around but they were more interested in their own business. This raises the question that my wife and I talked about in the car, we would expect that the dealership would/should have taken them out onto the water and showed them the basics. Now they may of said no but it should be an automatic "New Boat Services" and compulsory. I have noticed that most people lend a hand but it seems more and more just want to go past people in need, there was even one boat on the water that was joking and laughing at the Haines sitting on the ramp, karma will prevail.

The only comment i will make is give all your wiring a spray with Lanox (Inox with added lanolin). Lanolin (fatty secretion from sheep) is a natural rust/water inhibitor, and will stop corrosion in the connectors and wiring. Give the wiring/battery a good spray on a regular basis and it will look like new for years. You can also spray any metal surface for added rust protection.

Thats way to low, your battery should be about 12.6V standing voltage (battery fully charged with nothing connected). If it's at 12.2V while running you are not getting any charge at all and will die quickly because of the current used to start the motor. I think you need to check the charing circuit on the motor, it might be as simply as a fuse, loose connecting, or it maybe the magneto coil/s are dead. As stated earlier it should charge at full rev arround 13.5 to 14V's. I would charge the battery from a wall charger until the work out whats wrong, also buy a battery hydrometer (under $20) to see if any of the cells are the battery are dead (battery needs to be lead acid (car type), you cant use a hydrometer on a gel type battery).

Well thats not entierly true but they did better then me. The BOY wakes at 05:00 this morning so the wife says "Do you want to go fishing", I was out of bed and prep'en the boat in the PJ's like a seagull to a chip. Hit the ramp at Cooks River only to see about a dozen trailers and a lonely man sitting on the wharf with a hand line. Overcast, smooth water, wife, the Boy so a good day was guarantied even if we caught nothing but seaweed. We thought we would drift across the Bay in the Easterly so out goes some bait (peeled prawns) on the 1/0 long shank and on goes the SP's for the Boy as he likes to "play". The results can be seen below but I just couldn't cut a break, the Boy lands fish on his SP's while "playing" (and its not the first time), the wifes pulls in a Dusky and Whiting for the table and I pull in the biggest fish I've caught on the Bay with the picture below to prove it. The only way i managed a fish was to foul hook a Bream in the grill cover, ok it was legal and tasted great. Also I thought we would try trolling a shallow dive hard body lure on the way back and to my surprise it worked, we brought in a Tailor that went back. So the keepers were a Dusky and Sand Flathead, Bream & Whiting, we caught fish most of the day and the bits didn't stop.

Heres some pics from BCF BCF Wallpapers

Yes this thread is great, some more from the desktop rotation. Botany Bay Botany Bay again Found this guy in a tree at a boat ramp. And i cant go anywhere without my beautiful wife, from Darling Harbor.

My "how To" Change An Impeller On A Suzuki DT85 1994 Part Two Some more pics New and Old impellers Impeller after removal, waiting to be cleaned. Impeller Kit Exhaust Port in Driveshaft Housing. Drive Shift Rod assembly Gearcase assembly Water Pump assembly. Suzuki Parts catalogue download6Mb Download

I love this pic, its my son Ethan feeding the seagulls at Darling Harbor

I thought i would post some points and photos on changing an impeller and plate on a Suzuki DT85 as there didn't seem to be anywhere which had the info online. I'm also going to start a "How to" page on my crappy website to help others. I've had my Signature 492F for 3 years this Xmas 07 and thought it was about time to change the water pump impeller (shock horror i left it that long). My theory was to check the "Pee Hole" outlet making sure there was good pressure and flow. It seemed to be getting a little weaker so its was time to change it out. The impeller kit only cost $50 so I would recommend people replace the impeller regularly although my was at least 3 years old (not sure when the last owner replaced it so it could of been longer) Removal Step 1. Put your motor into neutral, remove the spark plug leads (just incase) and make sure you have enough ground clearance between the bottom of the motor and the ground. You need to pull down the Drive Shift Rod and Driveshaft clear from the motor to remove the Gearcase. This is where the impeller is mounted. Some say you have to drain the Gearcase oil but if you have enough ground clearance I found you don't need to as you don't have to tilt the Gearcase to remove. (Note: the Water Pump Tube stays within the Driveshaft Housing). Step 2. Loosen (But DO NOT REMOVE) the Nyloc nut on the Clutch Shaft Rod all the way and push the loosened nut & rod into the motor. This will detach the Drive Shift Rod which allows you to remove the Gearcase. See Pics below: Clutch Shaft Rod, this is on the Starboard side of the motor just below the cowling covered by a rubber grommet. The nut in the center is the one you need to loosen. Step 3. Undo all 7 bolts around the Gearcase but only loosen the 2 nuts (1 on each side) as these will stop the Gearcase from falling off onto your foot. There are 7 bolts & 2 nuts altogether. One of the bolts are underneath the Gearcase behind the Trim Tab. (Note: There is a bolt on top of the Gearcase switch bolts down from the top to the bottom, this does not need to be removed). Step 4. Once you have removed the 7 bolts and only loosened the 2 nuts, the Gearcase may have already slid down to the loosened nuts. If not, give the Gearcase a light tap and it should slide off. I positioned a piece of timber under the Gearcase and then removed the last remaining nuts. I managed to lift & hold the Gearcase up, removed the timber and then slide the Gearcase clear of the Driveshaft housing. I needed to use the power tilt to tilt the motor back to gain some more ground clearance, just make sure you tilt and remove the Gearcase evenly. You may need someone to give you a hand as the Gearcase weighed approx 20kg. Make sure you slide the Gearcase off evenly as you might damage the splines on the Driveshaft or the Drive Shift Rod. Step 5. Place the Gearcase somewhere......(I didn't think of this until after I was holding the bloody thing in the air). I placed it into a 20L drum which held it fairly square so I could work on it. You could place it in a vice just make sure you have some protection on the jaws. You will then see the impeller housing (pic below) which has 4 nuts. Remove the nuts and cover and note how the fins are laying on the old impeller. You have to make sure you install the new impeller the same way. Remove the old impeller by sliding it up the Driveshaft but be careful you don't drop the small Keyway as you might need this if your not replacing it. The Keyway stops the impeller from rotating freely on the shaft and locks it into place. Remove the Keyway. You will then see the impeller plate under the impeller that you may or may not elect to replace. When you buy a replacement impeller you can buy the impeller itself or a kit which contains the impeller, plate, keyway and gasket. If you are replacing the plate (why not as you have gone this far) remove the plate and gasket, make a not which way the plate is installed as you may need to refer back to this depending on the kit you buy. Nuts removed, the small rod you see is the Gearshift Rod, the large one is the Driveshaft. Cover removed, notice how the Fins of the impeller are laying. Plate removed Step 6. After you remove the impeller housing inspect if for excessive damage and/or cracking, if there are deep scratches or cracks I'd recommend you replace the housing. Clean the surface of the housing as this faces the plate and there is no gasket between the housing and the plate. I use an emery stone and Inox to clean the surface. If you use this technique, move the case in a figure 8 motion on the emery stone as this will help to make sure you "linish" the surface evenly. Clean the surface of the Gearcase where the new plate will be installed, I used a small razor blade but make sure you don't scratch the surface deeply as the gasket may not seal. All clean ready to be installed. The Keyway is the small rectangular piece of metal (left) at the base of the Driveshaft. Installation Step 7. In the impeller kit (if your replacing the plate as well) you will notice you have a new impeller, plate, gasket and Keyway. If you bought the impeller only then you need to keep the other parts. Look inside the new impeller and you will see a small notch which is open on one side (See pic). This notch is where the Keyway sits so you have to make sure that when you insert the impeller into the housing, this notch is facing down so it goes over the Keyway on the Driveshaft. Insert the new impeller into the housing making sure the "fins" are laying the same way as the old impeller, (I didn't take a photo of the impeller in the housing but if you see the one in Step 5 you will notice how the old impeller fins are laying).I sprayed some Inox on the new impeller and inside the housing to protect the impeller from the first test run, you could use some engine oil as well. Step 8. Now depending on who you are you might want to add some silicon sealer to the Gearcase and the bottom of the plate before installing them but this is your choice, I did. Place the gasket onto the Gearcase and then the new plate (Note: The kit I bought showed which way the plate went ie it was marked "Top", if not refer back to step 5). Place the new Keyway into the Driveshaft, slide down the impeller housing (with the impeller inside) down the Driveshaft and align the keyway with the notch in the impeller. Tighten the nuts evenly taking note that the Gearcase is aluminum so don't be heavy handed. Place some grease onto the side of the Driveshaft splines, don't put grease on the top of the shaft as depending on the motor it might cause undue pressure inside the gearing. I also cleaned and aplied some grease to the water pipe grommet inside the Driveshaft housing (see pic) Note the notch for the Keyway The water pipe is the round fitting you see at the top. Step 9. Now for the hard bit. Before you start aligning the Gearcase back onto the motor grab a BIG socket (30mm) and place it onto the fly wheel nut so you can rotate the motor as you align the Gearcase. If you don't have a socket you could use a rag on the teeth as you only need to rotate a small amount. Also make sure that the Clutch Shaft Rod is pushed into the motor all the way (Step 2). If it isn't it will foul the Drive Shift Rod and the Gearcase will not slide into place. Another grey point hear is whether you place a bead of silicon sealer on the surface of the Gearcase, I did. Grab you Gearcase and carefully slide the Driveshaft and Drive Shift Rod up inside the Driveshaft housing. You may need to rotate the motor clockwise to align the Driveshaft. Make sure you don't knock the Drive Shift Rod as this will put the gearbox in gear which won't align with Clutch Shift Rod which is in Neutral. If you slid it up the first go and it aligned, use the 2 nuts to hold the Gearcase in place. If you do knock the Drive Shift Rod and it went into gear remove the Gearcase and place a screwdriver into the hole on top of the Drive Shift Rod and pull it up or down until it goes into Neutral. You can check if the gearbox is in neutral by spinning the prop, it should spin freely in both directions when its in Neutral. Before you install the remaining bolts, tighten up the Clutch Shaft Rod nut and test the gears. Once you have tighten the nut place it in forward and check that the prop only spins clockwise and not anti-clockwise. Place it back into Neutral and test it rotates freely both ways. If all is well tighten up the remaining bolts evenly and again don't be heavy handed as they are screwing into aluminum. Thats it, it isn't difficult but only needs some procedures to make sure certain things are done in order. If there is some info here that you disagree with then let the know and I'll update the post if warrantied. I will post a second post with some more pictures and links.

Great flat'y, and i thought my PB of 58cm was good going. This is a great site, thanks for sharing.

Hi all, Just a quick post on the Flat'y I caught in the bay last week. It's a PB but it didn't come easy. D-head here (and yes the hat proves it, note to self "get new hat") forgot to loosen the drag after storage and as well, it swam around my over line. My wife needed to manage the other rod find the net and land him. After some tense moment of the flat'y taking some lunges near the boat we landed him. We also caught some Taylor (legal but went back), small bream and yellow tail. Good day on the water apart from the 20knot winds that came up about 1:30 as expected, which made for a bumpy ride home in the Signature. Where: Botany Bay anchored near a starboard channel maker. When: About 11:30am (Falling tide, 1hr after high) Bait: Chicken thigh Gear: Reel, Stradic 2500 with 4lb braid/10lb leader. Rod, Ugly Stick. Hook, Mustard Big Mouth No 1/0 Fish: Dusky Flathead, 58cm 1.1kg (PB)

Thanks, I found that part list minutes after i posted. The part number you mentioned is the Impeller Kit (optional if you buy a replacement kit). The same list gave me the actual part number i needed for the the Trim Tab.