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zmk1962

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Posts posted by zmk1962

    Question for Huey perhaps-hydraulic steering

    in Boating

    Posted · Edited by zmk1962

    I have a similar "bullhorn" set up on my outboard. The shaft protrudes both ways from the piston housing. After each trip I wash the shaft with flowing low pressure water and hit it afterwards with WD40 or RP7. I do the same on the shaft that comes out of the motor tilt-trim hydraulics. After 10yrs no sign of rust/corrosion and my outboard mechanics tell me to keep doing what I am doing.

    Generally I have not had much success using grease on boat fittings - I have tried several marine grease brands but I find in the end they all cake up. I am always willing to learn though - so if anyone can recommend some brands that they are happy with for these types of application I am all ears.

    Hairtail recipes

    in The Kitchen

    Posted

    I like to keep my fish cooking simple.

    Re Hairtail -- I actually don't cutlet them (that's if I think in the traditional sense of what a jewfish cutlet looks like). I normally cut the hairtail into about 8inch lengths, pat the lengths down with some flour (I like to mix in a bit of salt and black pepper into the flour - my wife doesn't), put about 1/4inch olive oil into a frypan, put 2 cloves of garlic in the oil (keep the skin on the garlic), heat until the garic starts to sizzle and then lay in the hairtail. The flour will crisp the outside up nicely.

    Serve with lemon wedges, aleaoli, chippies and a nice mediteranean salad....oh... don't forge the chilled crisp dry white wine!

    Rust on trailer springs

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    I hit my springs with WD40 or RP7 after each dunking (even in the carpark at the boatramp - it takes less then 2min to run around with the boat off) and also after each fresh water wash down. Trailer built 2001 and still running on original springs which show minor surface rust after 13yrs of service.

    On previous boats I tried, gal springs, bitumen coatings etc and had to replace springs every 2-3yrs. I picked up this practice of spraying a flexible oil coating from a 1970's boating magazine bought at a garage sale - the writer used to fill an old mortein fly sprayer (yes the manual pump type) with a mixture of kero and old sump oil to spray his trailer springs. Its worked for me.

    Heavy trailer registration issues

    in Boating

    Posted · Edited by zmk1962

    Hi AT SEA, quoting from the RMS spec sheet for electric brakes - for which I posted the link above, this is what it states:

    "The Road Transport (Vehicle Registration) Regulation 2007 requires that all trailers with a Gross Trailer Mass (GTM)
    exceeding 2 tonnes be provided with a braking system which will operate automatically and promptly upon breakaway
    of the trailer from its towing vehicle, and that such application should be maintained for at least fifteen minutes.
    Such trailers, if fitted with electrically actuated braking systems, must be equipped with a device which applies the
    brakes in the event of a breakaway from the towing vehicle and maintains application for at least fifteen minutes. It is
    essential therefore, that an energy source, such as a battery, be carried on the trailer and that means be provided to
    ensure that the battery is maintained in a fully energised condition...."

    The text in blue is the generic requirement. The easiest and cheapest way to comply as Huey says is with an electric/hydraulic system that has a battery on the trailer as the energy source. I guess you could also comply with compressed air brakes and have a compressed air cylinder on the trailer, much like truck trailer braking systems - but that would be mega bucks. I don't think there is a way you could comply with mechanical over-ride brake systems.

    Heavy trailer registration issues

    in Boating

    Posted

    Looks good. I guess if I was starting from scratch with a naked trailer I'd go for this or the Brakesafe I mentioned before, but when the existing rig works, but it needs a few tweaks to stay compliant a different set of criteria come into play. Still have not got to the stage where cost is not an issue.... sadly.

    Heavy trailer registration issues

    in Boating

    Posted

    Yes. All trailers that exceed GMT 2T need brakes that come on if the trailer separates away from the car. These brakes are usually electric so there is a battery that powers the breakaway unit in the event of separation from the tow vehicle. My breakaway unit is a Hydrastar electric Hydraulic system that drives 4 disc brakes.

    Full RMS specs are here: http://fullnulled.com/doc/pdf/download/www__rms__nsw__gov__au--registration--downloads--vib_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf

    Heavy trailer registration issues

    in Boating

    Posted

    I know this is an old post, but having just gone through the rego process it reminded me of how I solved this and I thought I'd contribute my experience for any newcomers.

    Yes, the Brakesafe system apparently meets all RTA specs out of the box, but I was quoted about $450 for the unit and another $500 for installation. Seemed steep especially since the unit replaced a lot of what I already had and which was working - the breakaway system and the trailer battery charging circuit.

    What my rig missed was the monitoring system so I went down the path Emptyhooks outlined. The specs state that the warning circuit can be visual - I opted for a digital voltage meter mounted on the dash and visible from my driving seat. In normal driving operation this meter reads the charging circuit voltage, when I press the brakes a relay disconnects the charging circuit and the meter reads the trailer battery voltage.

    The rig passed rego again today.

    If anyone is interested PM me and I will send you the details of the Auto Electrician that wired up my rig. (I am not sure if I am allowed to post his business details here outright).

    Preserving trailer suspension

    in Boating

    Posted

    I had my trailer built 6/2001. I am running the original springs and expect another year or two easily - rego checked at heavy vehicle station each year (and check by me each trip!). I am now more concerned about the bushes given the age than the springs.

    I hit the springs with WD40 or RP7 after each washdown once the trailer is dry. WD40/RP7 penetrates deep into the spring leafs. Its flexible and coats easily. Overtime it becomes a gummy flexible coating.

    On previous trailers I tried galmet, bitumen, etc. Found that these products protect for a while but then crack when the springs flex allowing the water to get in - and the salt stays trapped as there is no way to wash it out properly probably accelerating corrosion.

    Best Position for Transducer on older Haines Hunter v16

    in Boating

    Posted

    I have a Haines 635L. It looks like a very similar hull design at the stern. I too struggled with external transducer placement for many years - strangely enough Hummingbird as well. Had issues with transducer being knocked up, poor reading, intermittant reading etc etc.

    In the end, I gave up on external mountings and epoxied mine to the bottom of the hull in the cavity just before the stern bung holes. I have never looked back. I can sound bottom at 60km/hr and at 480m at Browns Mountain. The only time I get bad readings is when I am in reverse and there is a lot of prop wash under the hull.

    Trouble hooking hairtail

    in Fishing Chat

    Posted

    Been years since I fished for Hairtail. I used a single 8/0 on the end of a wire trace with a big keyring about 3 feet up. Fitted a running sinker on the line tied off to the keyring. Used live yakkas pinned behind the head through the shoulder before the fin and lowered them down maybe 12-15ft. The trick i discovered was to use a 6 to 7ft rod with a VERY whippy tip (but a solid butt section) and the hairtail would hook themselves.

    Looking at how the rod tip behaved.... this is what I suspect used to happen:

    Hairtail can only swim vertically - up or down. They strike the yakka silhouetted against the sky from underneath (rod tip would lift)... and I suspect they chomp on the yakka a few times to pierce it with those pointy fangs so its basically paralyzed (tip would be twitching and bending about 6inches - very gently - strike now and you lose the fish)...... They then mouth the yakka and swallow it head first as they turn and point their toothy head back to the bottom and head down (rod tip loads up and arcs nicely and when the drag starts to bite all hell breaks looose!). All the Hairtail I caught had the yakka head down in their throat and gill area and the yakka was pierced all over. My whippy stick outfished any stiffer rod on any night as it had the give to let the hairtail take its time.

    So long story short, consider that if this is how the hairtail feed and eat, your float would be pulling the pillie from the hairtail mouth as its trying to "paralyse" the pillie or swallow it (maybe try a lighter streamlined float)....also if you are using a pillie they are going to try to eat it head first... running gang hooks the traditional way you would for the slow retrieve for tailor or salmon works against being swallowed head first. Maybe if you know hairtail are around, chuck out a pillie baited ganged up in reverse - so it would retrieve tail first - but it would slip down a hairtail throat more easily.

    Anyway, just some thoughts.

    BTW if you are wodering about the keyring - it was an easy way to boat the hairtail as you could hook your finger through the keyring and lift.

    • Like 1

    JB and Ettalong bars

    in Boating

    Posted

    This post is late but may provide some historical explanation regarding Currumbene Creek classified as a bar crossing on some documents.

    My first trip to Jervis Bay was to Callala and Huskisson around 1978 - at that time there was a rock shelf at the entrance to Currumbene Creek. It ran at right angles out from the shore behind the Husky RSL club and extended about 20m into the channel.

    This meant to get in or out, after lining up with the markers, you had to make a dash parallel to Callala beach - this water is shallow!!!! If there was a bit of a swell or bit of surf, then you had to time your parallel run so that you did not end up bottoming out or getting hit side on by the waves - or BOTH! Coming in with the waves behind you (even 3 footers) was interesting to say the least. This was pretty much a bar crossing and boats were rolled by the surf regularly. I first got my hands on a boat in the 80s and made that crossing in a Quintriex Fishabout with a 40HP Mariner several times and clearly remember lining up with the other boats to wait my turn!!!

    In the 1985-1990 timeframe the rock shelf was blasted and the mouth of Currambene Ck was dredged - hence today you see the wooden warf and the sizeable whale watching vessels and even some yachts now in Currambene creek.

    This certainly has made boating much safer - but as a fisho, I can tell you there was no better place to catch monster tailor than behind old Husky pub, in the dark with the moon out and the surf breaking on the rock ledge and the foam floating across into Currambene Creek. Casting pillies on gangs (no weight) toward Callala and slow retrieving through the foam was sheer adrenaline time. During the day, this spot was a local "hot" luderick spot as well. Sadly all that disappeared after the rock ledge was gone.

    Where to fish at Jervis Bay?

    in Fishing Chat

    Posted

    Me and a few mates will be staying in Jervis Bay from tomorrow till Wednesday and wondering where should we go? My first choice will be some pelagic action but if condition doesn't permit then the good old bream and flathead would be okay as well. I'm also a big fan of squidding so where can I possibly catch a few? I will also take my missus there and told/sold her this is not just a fishing trip so I need to spend some time with her doing non-fishing activity. ;-) I don't know what to do and where should I take her? She likes yummy food and enjoys activities that don't involve too much physical input so basically she's lazy and just wouldn't stop eating LOL :D:D:D I wanted to carry her on the back of my PA and do a bit of exploring... maybe the Basin? I was busy lately so only just started doing a bit of research. Hopefully you guys can help me out especially the locals... thanks!!!!

    P.S. We will be staying in Callala Bay and there are four of us (3 Hobies PA & 1 Malibu).

    Screenshot2012-12-23at70214PM_zpscd23db3d.png

    From memory you have to drive back to the highway to head to StG Basin, or Huskisson or Vincentia.

    Can recommend the StoneGrill at Huskisson, also the good old Husky Pub has had a revamp and we had some really good food there. Lots of cafe's along that little walk. If you take your missus to Husky about mid afternoon - pop down to see the Aboriginal Museum and the Lady Denham (I think that's the ferry's name) - just as you enter Husky 2nd street after the servo (again from memory - watch for the signs to be sure). There is a sea water enclosure there with a couple of wharves - left over from when that used to be a shipbuilding site - its pretty interesting. Bring along some old bread - or pay for some chook pellets there and feed the "monster" bream, flatties, snapper (>1m), kings etc trapped in there - it's not fishing but is fish related ...even your missus will have FUN! You can then have dinner afterward further into husky - maybe talk about the fish he he he!

    If missus is a bit more adventurous, suggest you go down into the national park - marked as Jervis Bay Territory - go see the old ruined lighthouse. Spectacular views. There is really good write up of the history of that lighthouse. Some 180ships perished on that bit of coastline - makes you appreciate what the settlers went through... just be aware that the major roads in the National park are sealed but most of the side road to the lighthouse is unsealed. There are a number of beaches in that are that are spectacular white sand beaches.

    Also, you might want to head a few more clicks down the road to the southern tip of the bay - missus can enjoy the National park scenery and you can check out Murray's beach boat ramp. Its the closest launch to the heads and fishing Middle Ground and around Bowen island is like a 1-2km trip from that boat ramp. Have not been there for years so I am not sure of the state of the ramp, but it used to have a wharf tucked in behind the breakwater.

    Enjoy.

    Gopro editing

    in The Dark Room

    Posted

    Hi all, jut got myself a gopro hero 3 and wanted to know what programs are people using for editing ect. Had a look on the gopro website and they had a free one, but for some reason I couldn't download it.

    Also what battery length are you getting? Couldn't find any info online. I've got to recording now and it's got one bar left on battery, and been recording for 2 & 1/2 hrs.

    Cheers Luke

    When I was running "Windose" I used Corel VideoStudio Pro X3.

    Have been on Apple for 2yrs now and use iMovie. Also started playing with video clip editing on iPad2 - and just purchased Pinnacle Studio also by Corel.

    Good luck!

    Sydney Harbour Tuesday - A Barren Kingy Wasteland

    in Fishing Reports

    Posted

    Hey Guys, went out early Tuesday to try and start my Kingy campaign. Had plenty of squid in the tank early and so I thought things were looking pretty good. Man was I wrong. I tried everything, every marker, every reef, trolling, drifting, whole live squid, squid strips, berley.

    Went outside up to Blue Fish Point. Did not even see a fish on the sounder. Was going to go to Long Reef but was getting low on fuel from all the moving around. I don't profess to be a Kingy Guru but I can normlaly hold my own and fill my esky on most occasions. No surface action anywhere either.

    The 20 minute drive home with the boat on the trailer felt like 2 hours. Don't think it's happening in the Harbour yet unfortunately. I even ended up releasing two of the squid I had caught back into the kelp to be a Kingy candy for another day and maybe some good karma with the fishing Gods for the next trip.

    You are in good company for what its worth. Spent Sunday in MH around the usual haunts, downrigged w squid at all depths, went to SH and a few km down coast and back. Lots of bait balls (LOTS !!!) arches all around them, then tried NH. Donuts all around. Water temp 23degC.

    I think that's why its called fishing and not "harvesting". For me it was a 1hr drive home lost in my thoughts.

    sounder/plotter - which one

    in Boating

    Posted

    Thanks guys,

    I have now started looking at the GME G Series which i had not even considered before.

    At what depth do you think the G Series 600Watt 50/200khz transducer will be accurate too. I noticed that the Lowrance Elite-5 DSI reads the bottom to 76meters, so this may not accurately read all the bottom at the peak? (yes i know there is more than just the bottom to read) But to head up to the next Lowrance it appears i would need the HDS-5 Gen 2 which gets up there price wise as i need to then purchase a Navionics card.

    I do like the option of sticking with one brand (GME combo, epirb and VHF radio) as i understand you can have the radio talk to the GPS combo in case of emergency.

    Has anyone actually used the GME G Series? and what is your thoughts?

    Thanks

    I don't have experience with the GME G series, but I'm glad you're starting to narrow it down as you build up the list of features that you want to have. So far I have noted, for Sounder: Colour screen, >76m (250ft) max depth, dual frequency; and for GPS: NMEA In/Out (thats the GPS signal input and output capability that allows you to connect to other devices). I would suggest you build out this must have list of features for the GPS/Souder combo.

    Start a similar list of must have features for your VHF set (So far DSC - Digital Selective Calling, and NMEA in/out).

    Its only when you have that clarity that you can start to shop for the bargain combination. It's a trade off.

    At this stage I would not be to fussed about buying the same brand (unless you feel you can negotiate a better deal) - as long as your sets support the interfaces and the international standards for the data that you wish to exchange you should be ok - and you can check for that compatibility online before you buy.

    Eg. I found the wiring diagram to connect my Standard Horizon Explorer GX1600 VHF with my Eagle Seacharter 642c DF before I purchased the GX1600. BTW, the Seacharter has a max depth of 457m/1500ft. I have sounded down to 500+m but the 5inch screen makes it hard to be really effective (even with "bottom zoom" enabled - yet another feature to consider!!) so in my case the screen is a compromise. Nevertheless hasn't stopped me catching Gemmies and Blue Eye - as I can cleary find the Mountain and contours.

    True some of the manufacturers offer newer Units with their own proprietary network implementations, and hence would be easier to interconnect, but I don't think they are in your $1000 price range.

    If I can make one final suggestion, build up your knowledge - read as much as you can - Google some products that you are interested in and download the manuals that are available free online. Read up on the features and what they do and how "user friendly" the interface is to access those features.

    Or... go to a dealer that understands this business and explain the type of fishing/boating you do and what your needs are and listen to their advice. I know this area can be quite complex and the fear is once the units are installed - you will have to live with them for quite some time. Best of luck.

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