abecedarian

Husqvarna make a decent ride on, worth looking at too. As a kid I had to mow a 3 acre lawn with a variety of cox mowers. They're cheap, simple but a bit on the nasty side. Slow to cut but if you're not in a hurry will do the job. Don't know what they're like now though, this was a while back. Once I moved away from and the old man started having to do the mowing he soon got rid of the cox and bought a Kubota mower with three times the cutting width and twice as fast...

Best thing is to probably contact your local council and find out what the regulations are.

There is lead tape readily available in golf shops that's used to change the MOI of a club head. Perhaps some of that put where you need it and sealed with silicone or epoxy may work?

Most of the worry people have with waders is that if you end up in the water and they fill up you'll be dragged down under which is total rubbish. If you're wearing waders and if you get knocked into the water then they will fill up, but they won't drag you under because they fill with water of the exact same density as its surrounds, so the buoyancy stays roughly the same. What will happen though is they'll make it much more difficult to get back out of the water if you're still wearing them and make it harder to maneuver in the water. If you get hit by a wave and they get swamped on land then they become heavy and cumbersome as well.

Lures with a pink flash like the rainbow trout pattern Tassie Devils can work very well there. If it's a hot day and you have a down-rigger, send a 7 cm Tassie devil down about 3-4 metres and fish as close to the steep banks at the back as you can. They won't be so deep if the water temperature is a bit lower.

There's a certain way of repairing graphite or carbon fibre rods and if done properly should preserve the action. Say you have a $1000 IM8 carbon fibre fly rod for example that you broke mid section. That rod would be worth repairing and to do so would be to join the broken sections with a segment of lower grade carbon fibre like IM6 for the splint. If you use the same grade carbon fibre then you'll find as a bend is put on the rod there will be a straight section where the rod has been repaired. By using the lower grade carbon fibre for the repair it largely overcomes this problem. It's a job best done by someone who knows what their doing and worth paying for a decent job. $200 spent to salvage a $1000 is still worthwhile (assuming there isn't a warranty on the rod that covers breaks) Now, if you were to break a $100 rod then the cost of repairing it properly could easily end up as much as getting a new one. Long story short, you can repair them with no appreciable change in the action if done properly but it may cost a bit and not be worth it overall.

There's no harm in asking, if people want to give you some marks they will. If they don't, they'll leave negative remarks... There are plenty of raiders here who aren't selfish with their fishing locations and will PM you some places to start with.

Polarised is Polarised. What you pay for in the expensive glasses in my opinion is the quality or the glass, the optics and the anti-glare coatings. There are plenty of cheap glasses I've tried that aren't truly optically neutral which gives me a headache because of the strain on my eyes. But, I've also had this issue with an expensive pair too so it's not limited. Personally, I prefer glass lenses over plastic (better scratch resistance) and metal frames because they fit me better. You can't really get that with the cheaper glasses. Spotters are good, they have the Polarised and photochromic lenses which are nice in variable light conditions...

Another thing to consider, some Mig welded don't push the wire around corners too well. So if you have the cable bending and it's not feeding straighten the whole thing out, try again and see if that helps.

Everything is built to a price and the first thing to be cut back on from my experience with cheap reels is the drag. It's not the total force of drag that counts (tighten them up with a pair of pliers and you'll achieve high drag pressures...) but how smooth the drag is at any pressure. I've found the cheaper reels grab a lot more in the drag and are not as smooth as the better gear. Drag that's not smooth will put more pressure on the terminal tackle and is more likely to cause it to fail. That's the main reason I buy a bit better gear. (A $200 reel is not what I would call top shelf, just more expensive than the cheapest. A $1000 reel is more what I think of when I say top shelf) Ball bearings have different grades of quality too, but the cheap and nasty ones are less likely to lose you fish unless they seize.

Fishing is supposed to be a sport. There's absolutely no sport in gaffing a fish like that as it swims by and killing it. It really is a pretty weak act.

Just make sure with the CTP that the at fault driver is covered too, not just the other driver. NRMA do this, as do some others. It's worth checking because if you're at fault and injure yourself seriously if you don't have that protection you could be in a lot of trouble. Standard health insurance typically won't cover it...

My stradic 1000 holds over 200 metres of 4 lb fireline... About 100 metres of 6 lb mono though.

I used to use size 4 mustard bait holders and did very well back in the days I used bait. Only problem is they swallow them a bit deep and gut hooking is a problem. Probably a size 2 may be better in that regard...

Excuse my ignorance, but what is DI and starboard/starboard design?

My favorite metal by far is the 30g halco twisty. Caught more salmon than anything else I've thrown at them, and I always seem to gravitate towards it.

Of the two you've pointed out I'd take the diawa. Personally I very rarely fish with a metal lure heavier than 30g and often like to fish a bit lighter with soft plastics or similar. I think the rapala is a bit on the heavy side in that department, the diawa would give you the best casting weight range and be light enough to have a bit more fun with the bigger fish. But, it also depends on how they both feel...

What vehicle do you use to tow that? 3.7 tonne is an awkward weight...

Wouldn't matter, people would still keep undersized fish. They don't care about the rules or consequences of what they do.

I crossed it a few days back between Taralga and Oberon and it is flowing very nicely. I think the caves are a fair way downstream of that so there should be plenty of water there at the moment but without looking I couldn't say.

I used to use the same cleats on a pair of swimming shoes. The first time I used them I had only done the bolts up enough to grip but not squash the rubber sole so when I stood on the I ended up standing on the bolts, not comfortable. Went home, tightened the bolts as hard as I could go and they lasted years. One thing I found with that type of cleat is they only held well in one direction. I found they slipped sideways a lot when I used them which is why I changed.

The Missus has been with Amaysim for years and always happy with it. It ends up costing her about $20 per month with the amount she uses, which isn't much. Only problem is that the coverage isn't anywhere as good as Telstra, but the price makes up for it...

I've used graphite rods off the rocks for not far off 2 decades and never had one fail. They're not as delicate as people would have you believe. If you don't throw them around the rocks and abuse them they'll work fine for years. A few light scratches or scuffs won't affect their performance or strength, but deep gouges will. The main problem I've seen that people have is breaking the tip by high sticking the rod. Don't do that, don't throw it about and you'll have a rod that performs better than any other material and is far more comfortable to use all day. Graphite is a far superior rod material and well worth a little TLC.

Take your music CDs to vinnies or the salvos, they may be appreciated. As for the others, can they be recycled?

Vitamin C is relatively safe in larger doses, once you're body has enough it just excreted it through the kidneys which pretty much just makes for expensive urine. The studies about cancers may show a link with large amounts of vitamin C but nothing definitive has been proven as far as I'm aware. But, any vitamin supplements with the fat soluble vitamins such as vitamin A (a fair proportion of multivitamins contain these) need to be taken as directed. These vitamins aren't as easily eliminated from the body and will accumulate causing poisoning if taken in greater than the recommended dose.