fishingrod

Not sure if CC made an Outsider in 5m. Unless it’s the Explorer your thinking of. There was a Outsider 510 from the mid 90s era which I always felt was a great design. Not a huge boat but fantastic balance between cabin with proper V bunks & storage, reasonable fishing cockpit and realistic walk around deck (around the cabin sides).

Jon, You guys have been through a fair bit the last couple of weeks. Stay safe. I tend to wash the cockpit area, deck, coamings and cutting board with sea water from my deck wash prior to recovering onto the trailer. Use a rag or sponge to help scrub off stubborn dried scales, bait scraps etc. Use the seawater to get everything looking “clean” and flush all the blood and muck out of the carpet until it runs clear. As the hull is already effectively already pretty clean, once home you only need to use enough fresh water to rinse the salt off. A another quick going over with bucket of fresh water (with what ever cleaning product/additive you prefer) and sponge before you hose helps save even more water. Especially if you sponge both sides of your windscreen, clears and stainless work. Using a pressure cleaner instead of a normal trigger nozzle saves even more again. With rods & reels. The bucket and sponge is your friend here, then a very quick hose down concentrating on the reels. I wash the rods & reels while they are still in the boat before starting on the hull. This way the fresh water run off from washing the rods, as a secondary action, is already washing the cockpit area and carpet. Understand that the Sydney rules talk about washing boats for max 10mins. Unsure if fishing rods part of this 10mins ? If your thorough with the bucket & sponge, the hull really only needs a few short minutes of water. Then you can spend a bit of time on the important trailer bits. Acknowledge the above method still uses precious fresh water. Part of water saving is about cleaning smartly. And taking the few extra minutes to use a sponge. cheers, Rod

Hi Cooky. Small world, I think we met about a year ago a fair way up the Hawkesbury, when you needed to get back to Berowra Waters. Factory fitted HIN’s (containing the manufacturer’s code within the HIN) only started appearing from about the mid to late 90’s. cheers, Rod

Hi mate Thats almost certainly a Savage Astra. Probably from the late 70’s to early 80’s era.

Good luck with it. PS - You might want to ask your inspector to take portable tank with fresh fuel to run the motor up.

Even if it needs TLC and some money spent on a service and a few bits, the Haines 490 looks good for $4900 if it inspects OK. It’s my pick from all the links you've posted. The hull and motor seem a fair bit newer than the others. Your boat inspector should be able to take a battery pack to test motor and electrics as long as you let them know before hand. A rig of that weight is likely to need trailer brakes. I think I can see brake cables in those photos, so that’s a plus (as long as they work). Estimate towing weight maybe around 1000kg, perhaps a bit less. Check your taxi’s Tow bar rating. Don’t think I’ve ever seen them in factory black, so Its probably been repainted. 115hp is plenty of power. I have a year 2000 version of the same model Mercury on my boat and it’s proven a good motor over the 12 years / 500 hours I’ve owned it. cheers, Rod

Second hand is always a gamble, especially in this price bracket. But not all boats are lemons. I saw you will get an inspection. In my opinion, Victorian boat prices are generally higher than Sydney or Brisbane prices. But the Vic boats appear less used and in better condition . Just to confuse you, here’s a couple more examples. These are a tad smaller. I know you have the 2 big open bays which can get quite choppy. I don’t have a real appreciation for how you Victorians fish. Travel Distance to spots and gap between spot, are there rivers to fish etc etc. The open centre console may not suit the cooler climate. No problems towing these behind the Falcon. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rosebud/tinnies-dinghies/stacer-centre-console-/1177071334?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-albans/other-boats-jet-skis/streaker-fishing-boat-/1177308897?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social cheers Rod

Many may not know but since circa 2011 there has been a Marine Rescue levy applied to all NSW boat registrations and licences. Thus many members on this site are already making a annual contribution to them. I’m not certain what the exact value is, but I understand it was in vicinity $7.50 per licence and registration (IE $15 combined) but may have increased. I don’t mean to discourage you from donating further to Marine Rescue, as they do offer an excellent service. But wanting to make you aware that you may already be supporting them via the rego and licence levy. They do receive a high level of government funding. “The NSW Government is proud to support our emergency services volunteers, directing more than $45 million to MRNSW over the past six years, which has helped deliver 78 new and refurbished vessels, worth more than $18 million” Source : http://www.marinerescuensw.com.au/news-a-media/latest-news?view=news&id=1123 This government funding had allowed considerable spend upgrading and replacing vessels. For example, Cottage Point has two Sailfish Cats. An 11.5m (38 foot) model purchased in 2015 for $470,000 and a brand new 9m (30 foot) version which was only recently launched.

Repco, AutoOne, AutoPro, Autobarn, Bursons and even SuperCheap or Jaycar. Yes, should be fine to swap the up and down over to confirm that's the actual fault. They may be less than $15 each. Don't skimp and just replace one. They are both the same age. Pretty sure they are often called Horn relays. Similar to what people use for their driving/spot lights. cheers Rod

Underneath the starter motor there are two relays (solenoids) that control up and down. Hopefully this photo works. Under the thick cable with the yellow lug, there are two boxes about 35-40mm square in size. Each has a white sticker on them. Remove both and take them to your local automotive parts store. There are normally a common automotive part. There are 2 or 3 relays models that look very similar. When selecting pay attention to the number of the pins and their positions. You should be able to buy 2pcs and get change from $50. cheers Rod (first time posting a photo from iPhone)

I use the funnel style on a 5.5m glass boat for drift fishing. The amount they slow you is definitely worth their $30'odd dollar cost in my opinion. I usually deploy it from one corner of the transom.You can try different positions to best suit your fishing style, rod holder position, drift, tide and wind conditions. If they are opposing it can be trial and error. In a centre console in fine conditions deploying out the side is also an option. Some comments : Get at least one size bigger than recommend. The $30 ones aren't really strong enough for emergency rough weather or storm use. But great for fishing. Some suggest running a second recovery rope to the smaller end, so you can more easily pull them in backwards. I find this is more trouble than it's worth and just pull it in slowly with the main single rope. Suggets starting off with a 8-10m rope. In calm to moderate conditions I'll often only deploy 3-4m of rope which seems sufficient to slow my drift whilst not getting in the way of my fishing lines. Technically a longer rope is more effective. Personally I recommend the Burke Easy Stow Sea Anchors. They come with their own fabric carry bag that is attached to the narrow end of the funnel. I've found that in the $30'odd dollar range this model works best as the small carry bag fills with water it helps hold the main funnel under water. In light wind or current conditions the small bag offers a little bit of extra drag that helps keep the main funnel aligned in the right direction and prevents it sitting on the surface, which may cause the funnel mouth to close. This style Burke unit is available from the main chandlers. That's my 10 cents. cheers Rod.

Geoff Seen your thread on SydneyA' too. When I press my fitting in, the water out my hose is warm, like a nice warm shower. I wouldn't call it hot. But (from memory) generally warmer than my tell tale. The normal garden hose fittings on yours probably don't have a one way or spring loaded valve like my factory fitting has. I have no idea on the consequences (if any) if that hose is left unsealed with water flowing out when running at cruising speed. Good luck getting it fixed or diagnosed quickly so you can get back on the water this season.

I've got the same donk. The plumbed hose on mine has a spring loaded fitting inside it. I can push my finger into it when it's idling and warm water runs out of it. But it seals up afterwoods. If you are getting water run out with nothing connected that "may" be a worry. I'm not mechanical outboard wise, but it may mean you loose pressure to circulate it around the block ? The tell tale not pumping may just be some sand/salt or even wasps nest stuck up the tell tale tube ;common problem). Poke some thick mono fishing line or even whipper snippet cord up the tube. That can help unblock it. Cheers Rod

Gday Mate I have 15hp aux (2 stroke Merc fitted with a high thrust prop) on a fibreglass Alison 189. It pushes to about 6 knots max in calm weather. Doesnt have too much problem maintaining about 4 knots in most conditions, even if its a bit rough, windy or there is a bit oft tide running it still moves the boat forward OK. I used to have the same motor fitted to a 5m Cruise Craft and it was a 1 knot or so faster. When I had it on the Cruise Craft it bought me home safely after a couple of break downs. Once from Collaroy to Brooklyn and another time from the Gladsville Bridge to Wharf road. It may take a few hours but for me its good piece of mind to be able to get home under your own steam A lot of people reckon they are more trouble than they are worth and get neglected until needed most. I start and rinse mine on the muffs after every trip and give it a good 30 - 45 min run a few times a year to make sure its OK and blow the cob webs out of it. It gets an full annual service every 3- 4 years and every 12 months I check the fuel filter and change the gear box oil. Its nearly 40 kg hanging off the transom but it doesnt seem to effect performance or trim on my rig. cheers Rod

A friend has a 2010 Forester Turbo Diesel in manual. He is a travelling sales rep and absolutely loves driving it on the road and his boss loves it as it is very thrifty on the company fuel card. However he hates it for towing. He has a pop up camper trailer which I believe is around 800-1300kg. He doesn’t like strength of the clutch and bottom end torque when doing hill starts or manoeuvring in tight locations, particularly if there is a slope. He had to reverse up a tight driveway one day and he said the clutch smelt like it was about to catch fire and it stayed smelly for the next 20km of driving after disconnecting the trailer. (PS : He said that he had correctly flipped down the reversing flap for the trailer brakes) Overall, he much prefers towing with his wife’s Suzuki Vitara V6 auto. I used to tow 1600kg (a Allison 189 on dual axles) behind a 2005 manual VZ V6 Commodore Ute. It was great on the road. Good power, stopping and stability but I always felt the clutch in that car was a weak point. It was just OK on the launch ramps. I currently tow the Allison 189 with a 2003 auto R50 V6 Pathfinder 4x4. It is a fair bit slower than the Commodore on the road, but does a OK job overall. Having 4x4 is good confidence on the launch ramp. cheers Rod