savit
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Posts posted by savit
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Why solar is a scam if it was done without quality professional advice? I have seen solar roofs in a number of countries (where people count every $, actually - euro) that get a fraction of australian sun, and not just separate houses or remote areas - whole streets in solar roofs.
Local retail energy pricing is a scam as it still has a lack of proper regulation.
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Zman rubber (if they are cheaper than 3 packs for $20)
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For bait fishing with Alveys - I would get a reel with drag and a stiffer rod - easier to set the hook and control the fish - for beginners.
For lures or lures/bait fishing - spin outfit would be an easier solution.
Length. If I hold the rod in my hands on the beach - I prefer rods up to 10" , if in rod holder - at least 12".
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Thank you guys.
It looks like it is likely a lure hook - The eye of the hook is quite large (even in closed position) and would just slip out of the gang - however it would perfectly fit for a ring. On top of that, I just found out that some open-eye hooks were specifically marketed for lures.
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Hey Zoran. That's fine.
I use traditional/vest PFD - no inspections , no expiry, no extra costs. Best $10 spent on clearance 5 years ago. I 'self-tested' it a week ago on the water- still holds and looks fine though I wash it every time.
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Hi All,
I got some hooks a while ago off Fleabay auction locally. I think it was advertised as Mustad 90o open eye hook. Photo attached. Hook size aprx - 2. Looks like some kind of gang hook with turned eye though the size is small.
Just wondering if anyone can tell what they are/were used for?
Thank you.
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Alternative opinion here:
PFDs do not have to be ' australian-ticked' as long as they still comply/conform with allowed overseas/international standards. Links to standards here:
https://maritimemanagement.transport.nsw.gov.au/lifejackets/lifejacket-law/index.html
https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/safety-rules/safety-equipment/lifejackets.html
Current inspection certificate is not required when PFD if self-serviced per manufacturers requirements/instructions. You just need to keep a record handy.
Link here:
https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/safety-rules/safety-equipment/lifejackets.html
and quote extracts from the link here:
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"Important note: inflatable lifejackets must be serviced
Inflatable lifejackets must be serviced at least every 12 months or at longer intervals in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions."
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"Self servicing
Some manufacturers allow you to 'self service' your lifejacket, provided you do so in accordance with their instructions.
If the manufacturer allows self servicing you should be competent to do so. Otherwise you should get it serviced professionally, which is a higher level of inspection and replacement of parts than 'self service'.
If you are self servicing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. If there is a service record in the inside of the jacket, sign and date the service record with a permanent marker. If not, make a paper record of your own and keep a copy handy on board the vessel."
Example of PFD manufacturer requirements (Marlin)
Link:
https://www.marlin-australia.com.au/servicing.html
Extract from page 1 : ANNUAL SELF INSPECTION AND SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS It is recommended that an accredited service agent conducts a full inspection of your PFD every 5 years from day of purchace."
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5 hours ago, Koalaboi said:
My only concern with life jackets would be my inability to dive under an approaching wave, something most surfers know how to do instinctively using the wave's energy to propel you under the swell and get out past the breaking waves to safer water.
KB
Have a look at Manual Inflatable PFD - does not restrict much body movements, you can still dive, and activate/inflate it if you change your mind.
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Hey BN. Dont worry about that.
When I landed in AU - I started learning saltwater fishing stuff from WWW (forums, webpages, videos) as I had no mentor. Soon I find out that my head is overfilled with plenty of relevant and irrelevant information (there were many more fishing forums than now) while was missing some basic however important stuff. So, I grabbed old fishing books from local library and then filled the missing knowledge and made it clear the whole thing in my head.
What I mean - WWW will never be a proper/full substitute for personal experience/personal tuition (and books
) and they are lucky to have you.
WWW is really good when you know what you want and where to find it, however it is not the best choice in the beginning of learning.
Looking forward to your Carp report.
Andrew.
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On 12/15/2018 at 8:12 AM, PaddyT said:
Why is it onesided, it does an excellent job of shooting down some of the nonsense that Animal Rights activists etc have against fishing of any sort, the fish will provide scientists with a vast amount on knowledge etc that will lead to better preservation of the species and all marlin, if it had been killed on a longliner (and thats the main sort of fishing that kills marlin) not a peep would of been heard from the greenies and the left wing media.
Hi PaddyT. Apologies for late reply.
I call it onesided because instead of including any analysis if there are any issues with local marlin population/catch rate/trends and how they can be resolved - the article concentrates on philosophies and feeling differences between recreational fishermen and greens/animal rights activists. There were and will be always differences - it does not help.
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An article in Fishing World in regards to the recently caught marlin and marlin fishing:
http://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/marlin-madness
Interesting, though IMHO quite one-sided view for an author with PhD.
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1 hour ago, GoingFishing said:
I think the Maritime General manager might have to eat his words on that....i cant find anything in the rule book about inconveniencing other people per se. Can anyone else find something to substantiate this part of his comment
RMS NSW safety rules publications.
At the bottom of page 1.
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I noticed skutes DIY projects are popular in NZ - a hybrid between bucktail and saltwater flies. I would look at pictures from NZ fishing forums/FB for more inspiration. And probably would start from modifying bucktails (they have eyes, painted in bright colors, already have 'body' and can be found quite cheap $1-3 on clearances in AU) - however half of DIY fun would be lost.
Good luck with project!
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I think it is more likely one of those 1/10th or 1/100th shared boat owners. They are very impatient to get out of the harbour once or twice per year and have hardly an idea about the rules and physics on the water.
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@REELCRAZY, @Sigma - thanks for sharing.
Getting impatient.. If you see orange long paddle yak - that would be probably me - dont hesitate to say Hi.
Andrew.
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Navionics app has a free trial for a week or so to get an idea whether you need it. Navionics web app is free however no gps function. Plenty of people use them instead of buying sounders with maps.
If you are interested in forecasts then try free BOM Weather, WillyWeather, Seabreaze, Fishranger....
Also try Deckee.
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I would change the hook from the circle to "normal" and set the hook into the fish myself - before the fish sets the hook itself somewhere under structure. And also would make sure that the rod, mainline/leader ratings and drag setting provide sufficient resistance/pressure to reduce the time under the structure for most of the targeted species to minimum.
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1 hour ago, Oz98 said:
Hi all I'm having trouble figuring where in the harbour the fish cannot be eaten due to the high chemical/metal contamination...
if anyone could show me on a map I would greatly appreciate it!
cheers,Oz.
The border is the Harbour bridge. Opera house / East side - you can eat fish within stated (usually small) limits. Pier 2 / West side - not good for eating. Questions like - what happens when fish crosses the bridge either direction - usually lead to debates 😁 . I do not eat the fish from harbour at all.
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1 hour ago, connico said:
An example i show people is the below
I would agree with fish condition difference. However who cleans the caught fish 48hrs later ???
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7 minutes ago, Oz98 said:
AH Yes the ikijime, the only thing is accuracy with this method because each fish's head varies and it would suck to not find the brain first go Ek!
Here is the website with fish heads. Just select the species you are interested in.
http://www.ikijime.com/fish/flathead-dusky/
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That's how I was getting to fishing spots with my cousin in the middle of 80s. We used country small unsealed roads/trails to avoid contact with authorities as both were too young for motor bike license. So, in a case of unexpected landing from the back of the bike - it was just a quick laugh, wipe of the dust and back into the saddle to continue rodeo. Social media? Even our parents did not know about our near-fail adventures (and bike abuse) on the road. Yeah... Memories...
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Not quite an answer to your questions, however a few things to consider:
- have a look also at NZ shops, Usually their choice is wider and prices are lower than in AU even for well known brands as Shimano. No local AU warranty though.
- think how you are going to transport the rods in the plane . If you dont want to pay possible sport/fishing gear surcharge - calculate what max length of the rod piece will fit in your luggage. e.g. mentioned travel Raider 9' piece will have aprox 75cm piece
- check the customs/quarantine regulations for fishing gear for AU and NZ. The regulations are usually stricter in regards to used/freshwater/natural component(e.g.cork handle) fishing gear.
- some of the travel rods allow different rod actions due to additional rod sections (e.g. Trion Transcendent range, however the length is limited to 7'2 max) i.e no need for several rods during the trip.
-if you spend over AU$300 in one transaction (rod, reel, braid ,etc etc) close to your trip dates - you may claim GST on the AU border.
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I would say fast action of 1-3 rods - designed for rather light lures. Blades will give a bit of resistance in the water due to their shape and weight despite their small size.
I use 2-4kg for SP, however prefer 3-5kg for most blades (the rods are high graphite so the action is fast)
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I prefer SP Zman with scent for shallows and metals for deeper areas. Not so much plastic HBs - probably due to local prices for quality HBs.
Jig heads
in Tackle Talk
Posted
I used to have same issue in the past. Now I fish with stronger leader/line, tighter drag and stiffer rod, so hook can be set properly. May be not so finesse, however so far no lost fish - no matter what is rod position or net availability.