letsgocrabbing

Anyone know what depth the flathead are in off broken bay at the moment and whether box head side or barrenjoey? Have been catching reasonable size spawners in 42-46m off rosa gully sth head sydney and hoping the same depth may be the starting point out of BB. Room for one more on board planning on Wednesday with crab traps on the soak to start the day. Local knowledge a plus.

Looking at camping trip to Cattai Nat Park on Hawkesbury Have heard of Bass from Cattai Creek from these forums, but wondering if anyone has ever caught mud crabs that far up? Imagine bream would still be around and mullet but anyone else know the area well enough for some suggestions?

If you decide to keep one in the future make sure its tired out and not green before you bring it close to the boat.. Cousin went to early with a 2 mtr one on his 6 mtr fibreglass cuddy and it leapt and joined him on board. All he could do for the next 2 hrs as he sat on the cuddy cabin roof, was go through a packet of smokes and watch it eat his fibreglass gunnel storage compartments, before it settled down enough to be dispatched. He can still remember it's mocking grin!

For freebies not mentioned http://oceancurrent.imos.org.au/ http://www.buoyweather.com/map/new-south-wales 2 day forecast

Sign of the apocalypse. Any one had boils first? Revelation 16:3,4 "And the second angel poured out his vial upon the sea; and it became as the blood of a dead man: and every living soul died in the sea. And the third angel poured out his vial upon the rivers and fountains of waters; and they became blood. Seems early in the season but bodes well for the food cycle down the track. Early food, early bait, early marlin bonanza.

Hey DIBVW Couple of questions if your happy to contribute as I also crab that area. Tide was roughly around 1 m between low and high that day(during daylight). 1)Did your traps see it through the high tide? I normally only plan on either side of the high but saw a report earlier when I guy went better on the bottom of the tide, which to me had always been lest productive? 2) I use 1/2 bricks cable tied to the bait which seems to act as a better anchor as most problems I have found is weed dragging the traps. Is it weed you find as the biggest issue and using double hoop as the fix? 3) The triple crab trap did it have a female crab in it? 4/ When you mentioned deep ...how deep? I have seen some traps set mid hawke's in 17 metres and I always wondered is it worth it? 5) Bait? My preference has always been blackfish or mullet. Your Thoughts? 6) How many traps were set? Thanks

Never use to touch them till a chinese chef showed me the best way as the meat peels of bones easily. Cut Criss cross through to back bone in 20ml diagonals similar to dealing with mangoes. Salt skin, rest for half hour. Deep fry in wok for a few minutes. Plate and add whatever sauce takes your fancy. I generally do either chilli basil or sweet and sour.

Went out Sunday in sloppy conditions and drenched with rain to fish waverider buoy. Couldn't find it but my last visit was Dec, so does anyone know if it was pushed further South? I remember a couple of years ago it ended up being 2 kms further sth and east after big swell season. The thing that perplexes me is the FAD was still in same position and when we had a drift on that, we hardly moved as wind was against current so can't see the waverider buoy being dragged under by the current at the time.

For my two bobs worth 1) Numero uno......Bleed in saltwater bucket for 5 mins then 2) Straight into saltwater ice slurry 3) Filleted at ramp, cleaned in same slurry. rinsed in other saltwater ice slurry, then stored in icewater slurry prior to home and refrigerated overnight as discussed, If you wan't to eat on boat. Filleted after the above. Sliced into sashimi portions/packed in lunch container and buried in ice for 1/2 hr. If at home and can't wait till next day. Filleted after the above. Sliced into sashimi portions/packed in lunch container and put in freezer for 20 mins.

4000hrs. The boffin we spoke to at Honda naturally said " seal' failure unheard of when we first were chasing clues as to what could be responsible. If bottom seal do you have a rough estimate of repair cost?

Just wondering if any owners have had issues with oil leaks. Ours is a 175hp and is leaving a visible trail on water surface and losing a litre of oil every trip. No problem with compression and oil leak not visible anywhere when main engine cover cowling removed. Oil appears to becoming out through the bottom joint at the rear of the secondary under main engine cowling. Any thoughts ( oil sump seal/rear main/oil pump seal).

I have a hayman reece set up with detachable drawbar. I find as long as I dip the towbar assembly in salt water, which I do regularly on the ramps I use, that everything tightens up nicely with no play possible, Recommend this methodology for those that don't know how to determine whether a towball is loose or not. Can assure you there won't be any knock noises and the ball will remain solid on the bar. Getting the drawbar back out only requires a chain to the towbar, then attached to the nearest sturdy gum, selection of low range on the 4wd and a solid sledge hammer. Quick and easy!

If chasing Kings is the aim then I agree with SF12 with a variation and no they don't die as long as pegged through nose or bridled. Rather than running sinker use an elastic band with a snapper lead attached to it and twist it on above the swivel, with a couple of 1/2 hitches. Quicker way of changing lead weights to suit conditions and if they get to the bottom, one less thing to snag, as it breaks off. Easiest bridle is smallest cable tie available, threaded through the top of the fish's eye socket from left to right eye. Close cable tie loosely to form a loop that will pull down back against the skull.. Place hook in loop created point up wards and shank forwards and tighten down cable tie. Through the nose sometimes results in them working free, but this way they stay connected to hook forever and they don't die. Good for downrigging as well.

I'm more off shore these days but occasionally do a harbor run when offshore treacherous. If your sea worthy you can join us offshore as well , but can give you a hand on where to fish the harbor. Leave your ph number.

Hi Peter, Do you have any footage of your lure chains in action. I've only ever used spreaders as teasers so interested in seeing whether the action on your teaser is a better option. Any reason you haven't produced a spreader bar product?

Thanks FAB1 for the reply. On either side the average was 155 with rhs side bottom at 126 and LHs middle at 75. Removed spark plugs sprayed subaru upper engine cleaner. Let soak for 15 mins. Put plugs back in and ran for 15 mins, Tested now all back up around 175....happy days. Quote for head service was $3K-5K

Recently did a compression test on Honda 175 4 stroke and found 2 cylinders down on pressure. General consensus from outboard and motor mechanics I know is that it isn't rings, as their belief is all cylinders would be down. Found this article on a product called seafoam and was wondering if anyone had experience with it? Tip for the Week Do-It-Yourself Engine Tip; A Simple and Cost Effective Way to De-Carbon an Outboard By Capt. Bob Dunkelberger This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Opti-max and even 4-strokes... and should be administered after every 50-60 hours of use. First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3-gallon red Tempos works well or an empty gallon milk jug in a pinch, but it might be a bit messier. I use Seafoam over the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune. Note: in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that? Seafoam does the job in 15 minutes and can be purchased from NAPA, Car Quest or other auto stores. You'll need 3/4 gallon of gasoline and one 16oz can of Seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are pre-mixing in a carbed engine. Use a 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the small tank. Connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose from the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank onto that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If your engine has a fuel plug then you will also need a fuel plug on the smaller tank's hose. Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she gets loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 minutes at the dock or just cruising around under 2500 rpm's. Then shut it down and let it sit for another 15 minutes. Restart the engine; the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 more minutes. If she smokes after the second time do it again. I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. (I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used Seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke) The gallon mix should be just enough to do this 3 times. You don't need a wide-open throttle and you don't need to change the plugs. The plugs are cleaned at the same time as the combustion chambers. My suggestion is that every 50-60hrs is the optimal time to change plugs in most engines. I cleaned an antique Evinrude once that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the aforementioned mix through it. Seafoam, a great product, has been around since the 1930's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards. For you guys with the 4 stroke outboards? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they too will carbon up. Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2-stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne. For those guys that like to work the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs, Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure and notes on the can, "Oxygen Sensor Safe". After that, if your engine manufacturer recommends a daily additive treatment then do so. The tank and hose are a one-time purchase and the Seafoam is only costs $5-6.00 per can. I followed this on my 9.9 & 90 horse and smoke it did! I was using a garbage can for a water tank so I killed all mosquitos in the neighborhood! It will SMOKE! If you do this with the water hose muffs, white gunk will be aLL over your drive way! but no carbon left in engine and carbs very clean."

Agree with the incredible hull, but also add yellowtail or the relative cowan young when they come into the harbour, as they are bigger so better fillets