anthman

I reckon you'd be chasing bigger fish so maybe 6-8kg is the way to go - assuming 15lb braid mainline you could still get away with light jig heads for lighter fishing. As a general purpose setup, the suggestions above would cover most situations, but like most things, how you play a big fish, the terrain you have to deal with etc... will most likely dictate whether you land the fish. I.e. big gt in the shallows over rocky terrain with the above setup prob not gonna be landed with anything less than a dedicated popping rod and big reel (ala Morningtide setups - 30lb rods and 8000 saltiga). Overall, of rather lighter than heavier because it's just more fun to use over long sessions. Maybe it's a 6-8kg + 3000 setup, AND a popping rod 7'6 pe4-6 and 6000/8000 size reel (BG again?). That way you have general purpose fishing covered plus big tropical fish setup. I reckon you do all two rods + a big bg (since you already have a 3000) for just over $400.

Hey guys, i've got a kayak that I can use launching off the beach at the st George sailing club and therefore a short distance to paddle under the captain Cook bridge and access the immediate area (sans Souci park jetty opens to this area). Having only caught small 10cm tailor here whilst in the troll, what else can be caught in this area? I've heard of jewies being caught at the bridge pylons, but I've not had any luck bouncing SPs. I have heard there is a big hole somewhere - however cannot find anywhere deeper than 13-15m. If there are any that yak in this area, keen to do a joint session sometime in the future (if there is stuff to catch in this area this time of the year). Thank you!

What are you targetting, what method and what platform (beach,rocks,boat etc...) REEL: Daiwa BG 3000 (the "biggest" of the series before the next jump in weight - I.e. 3500 & 4000) is always a solid choice - not fully sealed, which might be worth pursuing since you have the budget. Having said that, I use a number of BGs on the boat, they get splashed plenty and are always sprayed over at the end with some INOX on the outside, no sign of water intrusion or decrease in smoothness. ROD: I'll defer to others here - really depends on your application. I will say that a range of 4-8kg feels a little odd on a 7ft personally - I'd either want a 4-6kg or 6-8kg. I do, however, use a Shimano raider snapper 7'2 5-8kg for a lot of fishing and it's great. Obviously save some cash for good quality line (j-braid) and leader (I'd prob lean to fluorocarbon if there is no particular reason why you need mono). All the above is for boat fishing, mainly working SPs and metals, occassion bait fishing cubed pillies.

Hey guys, I really want to crack slow jigging - i've seen videos based in Asia and videos in our local waters. What I'm unsure of is do you guys wait till you see solid arcs before dropping? If so, what are some tips to get the jig as close to the Mari as possible? E.g. I imagine throwing the jig a bit behind the boat to offset the distance created by the drift... Thanks guys!

All the brand's mentioned above make quality jigheads with heaps of permutations to make them work in all situations and different fish. Like anything bought in bulk, it pays to try a variety, maybe put a portion of your planned spend into buying one of each of small range to see which suits you best for the plastics you've bought for the fishing you like to do. I've found that the no brand jigheads you can get off eBay, in the "bullet" style to suit most of my needs, and hold up. Have even landed legal kingies on the heavier variety no brand jig heads. The finish and strength is noticeably poorer than TT jigheads but that's with serious pressure applied - way more than my drag or line that I use would allow. Works out to be $12 for 20x if we are looking at 1/4oz 2/0.

Yah I had a visual of my line going at a shallower angle, shallower still then CAWW! but ive got a good indication on the line strength, hook sizes and bait size!

Hi all, having gotten into a mission to bag some Sydney snapper (nearshore, Sydney Metro - not coastal), i've been thinking about what would be optimal setups and rigs. Given the potential size (<5kg?)and depths (20-60m for nearshore locations) and often windy/fast current conditions what do you think is an optimal setup for drift snapper fishing? My research has lead me to: * setup: Classic snapper rod (6-8kg) on a 4000 sized reel, running 20lb braid and 20lb fluoro. * rig: Single hook paternoster rigs with appropriate weight for the depth and current (slight angle going out), few metres off the bottom. Pillie cube, half pillie or even a whole small pillie. What are your goto setups and rigs? I love my 7' 3-6kg on 2500 reel running 10lb braid and 15lb fluoro - but am unsure of how it would holdup outside of inshore conditions.

I think the fair thing for both sides is: * Agree price before visiting - this could be in the form of the advertised price and make it clear whether the price is negotiable or not (on inspection). * When inspecting, handle all the talk and physical dry inspection then and there. You might even ask to have the engine started on ear muffs to observe how easily it starts and generally motor running. Based on what's there, agree/negotiate a final price pending water test. At this point, the price is accepted unless there is something that emerges during the water test. * Absolutely test the boat out on the water - observing all the things stated above. Ask questions during the test if something seems odd or different. * Assuming all went well and expected during the test, exchange money and rego ! Since these are all private sales, there are no rules so transparency upfront just makes for a smoother and fairer deal for both. If you aren't getting the same back from the buyer/seller, start upping the scrutiny!

thanks mate, that sounds about the right depth - marks would be very helpful, thanks alot! just need the weather to co-operate...

Hi Fishraiders, In my pursuit of snapper and positive looking forecast for the coming Saturday (7knt winds, 1m swell), I am looking to try a new place! I went on a charter many moons ago and being a novice at the time, did not take exact coordinates - we caught a few snapper over many drifts of the same area, dragging heavily weighted paternoster rigs. I recall seeing a cemetary at the shoreline - Waverly cemetery I think. None of the FR marks in the GPS section place a mark off the cemetery so does anyone happen to know the area? Given the drifts were around 10-15min and we were moving at moderate speed, I reckon the area is quite large - might not be a single point of structure but instead an area. Any help in locating the spot/area would be appreciated!

What are your key signs that you look for when knowing you've got the right depth?

I keep a spreadsheet on Google drive - I can open it on my phone and check through my rods and reels in possession before I buy that next rod/reel - it's often a pleasant reminder of what gear I already have and a cue to break out for some use. Of course, it's also licence to buy that new rod/reel when I don't see it on the list 😎

Dinga are rock solid. Have spent alot of money there🤣

Such a great post, many things to try.

Haha nice one. All the fish are bigger over there!

I think it's a mental hurdle for me to imagine a whole pilly being eaten by a legal red / 40cm snapper! Though if that's what works in Sydney then so be it!

Hey guys, just saw dinga have their eofy sale on, some cheap prices on anchor chain and related bits and bobs (given my recent topics on anchoring, though it would be useful to have spares). 4' of 1/4" anchor chain for $3 delivered (bit cheaper for FR members). https://www.dinga.com.au/jarvis-marine-anchor-chain-1-4-x-4-jm50604.html As a point of reference, it's $6 per metre at Bunnings for same diameter chain, also hot dipped galvanized. Other stuff on clearance too (padlocks, spare chain links etc...)

Thanks for that. What does kelp look like on the sounder? Is it less red (i.e. solid) and more patchy/dotty? Can it be just kelp on flat terrain (i.e. does not need rises/structure)?

Thanks mate, really appreciate it!

Thanks for the advice - I launch from Roseville and head through the heads and turn left (north) to get to long reef.

Thank you all - i used the ball and clip and will never go back! Might need to invest in a bigger sea anchor though (reduced a 1.5knt drift to a 0.9knt drift) - mine says its rated for upto a 6m boat (my boat is 4.72m) but I felt was very small and could potentially be bigger - about half a metre diameter when "opened".

Hi all, went out to Long reef in Saturday in search of snapper, drove to a few of the gps marks looking for signs of life: grants snapper, reddies run, in shore snapper and also the long reef edge drop off. Also drove over some wrecks along the way between north head and long reef. Was driving around these areas around 8am. Could not find any big arcs! Anchored at the long reef dropoff ridge line - all that were summoned were trevally! Was using mainly pilly cubes aswell as small metal slow jigs. I know there are a few sticky posts, have read them, they suggest structure but to be honest the only structure I could see was the ridge line and all the other spots looked fairly flat on the sounder. Is there any advice from the seasoned long reef snapper fishos out there? Also, thanks to all on my prev post about sea anchoring and anchor retrieval - used the ball and clip and never going back! Might need to invest in a bigger sea anchor though (reduced a 1.5knt drift to a 0.9knt drift).

Ok, so ignoring my comment about swell, let's say current is going in the directions described. Is my thinking right?

Just because I've never used one, can you help me out with two scenarios? #1: let's say I'm anchored. Swell direction is heading north (from South to north. is that the same as current aswell?). Wind is an easterly wind (from left to right). SO, depending on strength of current and wind, my anchored boat would be roughly pointing south west. Would adding a sea anchor on the stern mean that I point more towards south rather than south west? #2: let's say I'm drifting. In the same conditions described above, would I be drifting towards a north east direction? Then adding a sea anchor, I would drift more towards the north, rather than north east?

Thanks, I thought the metal loop was meant to "catch" the anchor and "carry" it to the surface - in the case of a reef anchor, having the main shaft pass through the solid circle and then prongs sticking over the outside. The coat hanger idea sounds like a good one of the anchor slips out of the solid ring, is that your experience?