kingfishbig
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Everything posted by kingfishbig
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Need advice with Trailer roller setup on aluminium hull
kingfishbig replied to Ojay Samson's topic in Boating
I might be worth removing the 2nd (middle) set of ezi glide brackets, then a combination of raising the keel rollers and lowering the skid rollers should give at correct support. Ie one set of ezi glides at the rear of the trailer should be sufficient to guide your boat on when retrieving. -
Need advice with Trailer roller setup on aluminium hull
kingfishbig replied to Ojay Samson's topic in Boating
I'm not sure if wobble rollers are meant to be used on pressed allow boats. They can cause dents in the hull due to the pressure not being spread out. I don't quite follow your explanation but looking at photo it looks like the ezi loader bracket is resting on the boat strake at one end and one point of the hull at the other end. This is creating undue pressure points by the look of it and may be why the boat is not resting on the keel rollers. I would try re - adjusting the ezi loaders first. You might want to adjust the keel rollers up as well. -
I have used Lanox on my boat trailer and it's good for that. But it gives it a brown colour and is a magnet for dirt and dust so I don't think it would be ideal for a fishing reel. I like silicon spray because it leaves a clear, non sticky film and is safe around rubber parts as already mentioned.
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Actually they don't reveal what is in Inox they just state 'ingredients determined not to be hazardous'. The fact that they warn it may harm natural rubber tends to suggest that it is petroleum based. Lanox on the other hand is described as being based on lanolin or sheep grease but they don't give a formulation either. I'm not sure how Lanox would go sprayed on to a reel. Wouldn't it be a bit sticky and spoil the appearance due to discolouration?
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The TLD 25 is a 15 kg reel at most. It won't hold enough 24 kg line (if using mono), as well as be lacking in drag power and possibly structural strength. PS: I wouldn't use braid for game fishing, particularly with an overhead reel.
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I think Inox is in the same category as WD40. The website actually warns you that it will attack natural rubbers so it sounds like it's petroleum based. It is well established that petroleum products will attack natural rubber as well as some synthetic ones too. They will also dissolve oils and greases. I spray my reels will silicone spay (after rinsing with fresh water) which is much more neutral and will not harm rubber. It helps keep corrosion down on the exposed metal surfaces.
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Mono is less prone to tangles (already mentioned). Simpler rigging (no need for complicated leaders and knots). With the right sinker and line combination you can just tie your rig to the main line with mono. With some of my outfits I have used braid as backing to boost line capacity, but use 100 + m of mono at the business end.
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I would assume the problem only occurs when the trailer is hooked up. It's not unusual for faulty trailer wiring to effect the car, though this tends to take the form of a fault code such as DSC and or ABS. It is also not unusual for trailer lights to play up with age due to exposure to saltwater.
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The Lethal 100 is much more strongly built than the 80 and smaller sizes, particularly with respect to the gearing. This is probably good enough reason to go for the 100 model. It would not hurt to have more line capacity either. Remember you might have cast close to 100m and maybe lost a bit of line over time to tangles or break- offs. This doesn't leave a huge amount left to play a fish if you started off with only 300m of 20 lb line.
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How old is the trailer? It is not unusual for the lights to play up when they get to the 7 - 10 year mark. What happens is that corrosion sets in. It can travel along the wires so patch ups can be a waste of time and you will probably be better off replacing the whole lot. Or you can do what I did and get a light board. This is a lot cheaper/ less hassle if you don't mind getting into the habit of removing it for launching and putting it back on again after retrieval.
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I used a 2 hook rig (large hooks obviously). One through the nose and one towards the tail. I uses to make 1 or 2 slashes through the sides with a knife which seems to make the bait more attractive. You will need a substantial float or balloon.
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You can spin while you have a live bait out (most platforms have rod holders in them). Also if you spin up a frigate mackeral big kingies really go for them (even if they are dead). I hooked quite a few kingies spinning for bonito on Rapala CD's. Landing them was a different matter, though. These days with braided lines you have a better chance.
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The rod is way too short for beach fishing in any case. The reel is not a casting reel either. Aside from being a bit on the big side it is a lever drag with all of the drag washers attached to the spool. This makes the spool heavy and hard to control when casting (high inertia and flywheel effect once it starts spinning). So for beach fishing I suggest starting from scratch and getting a new rod and reel.
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60 hp is the minimum rating for the Webster 4.9.Normally you want near the maximum rating for offshore boating, so way under powered, especially being a 4 stroke. Also I don't think any of the boats mentioned are suitable for Browns Mountain. You'd be flat out getting to the Peak on typical winters day with brisk westerlies. Any reason you haven't mentioned fiberglass boats?
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What I'm getting at is just let it swing around aimlessly. It's won't effect the boats direction that way.
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I have the same set up, ie bow mount electric and tiller outboard and don't notice the problem you described. If the outboard is left down and unattended it will just swing around due to water pressure without effecting the direction of the boat. If you go to the trouble of fixing it in one position then it might have some tiller steering effect.
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Did you grease the washer/ O ring before you screwed the filter in? It definitely shouldn't leak and leaking fuel is a very dangerous thing on a boat.
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Actually there is resistance with a threadline reel as the line is pulled over the lip of the spool. Also the spinning spool of an overhead reel has it's own momentum and actually pushes out line. I think the distance records are held by overhead reels because of this difference. In practical terms when fishing there is less of a difference as you want to control backlashes so tend to brake the reel (either with your thumb or with magnets or other devices), at the expense of some distance.
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Though you will save a lot of maintenance if you don't dunk the wheel bearing in the water. Should be possible with a single axle trailer with decent sized wheels. Less of the trailer will get a saltwater bath too, which will cut down on rust problems.
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You need to be aware though even if you don't spill any fuel (not hard to actually do), by filling a tank any fuel vapour in the tank being filled will be displaced into the confined space of your boat. Fuel vapours combined with air are more of an explosion/ fire risk than the liquid fuel itself. Better off just carrying a portable outboard fuel tank with hose and connectors.
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Lures 7g and above should be no problems for a small baitcaster, ie bass and flathead lures. Bream lures would be a problem as they tend to be very small/ lightweight lures.
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I picked up an Avon Royal Mk 11 with a nice blackfish rod for $12 at the local markets recently. Reason enough alone get to get back into blackfishing! The floating line by Sunline seems to be readily available from the local online tackle stores.
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Seems a bit far fetched when official estimated show a 90% compliance to the regulations for recreational fishing (not sure how you identify a 'sense of entitlement' either). Also the quote is wonderful ammunition for anti fishing groups and marine park advocates who would like to shut us down. Perhaps quietly reporting matters to Fisheries would do more good?
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It's not good practice to pour fuel between open containers at sea (or enclosed waters) in the confined space of a boat. Plastic fuel tanks with connections for fuel lines are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. It will be far easier this way to re-establish your fuel supply if you run out, as well as being infinitely safer.
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Shakespeare Ugly Sick would be a good choice. They have good quality guides and other fittings and very tough (resistant to knocks etc). The Silstar Crytal Blue Powertip has similar properties and is good value. You will want to decide whether you want a single handed rod or double handed. Single handed would be better for accurate casting (eg bass fishing in rivers), double handed would be better for big fish fighting and casting distance.