kingfishbig

I wouldn't even think about transferring fuel from jerry can (ie siphoning or pouring) when there are plastic fuel tanks available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Apart from being a fire/ explosion hazard you might need to change over quickly. You are on the right track using the fuel filter connection. All you have to do is attach a fuel line with primer bulb to the filter and put a suitable connector on the end that will match the one on the fuel tank. I am not sure but I think you might need an on/ off valve in line as well (so you are not drawing from 2 lines at once).

It's the narrow hull as well as a fairly steep deadrise, and coupled with the ability to lock in water ballast that gives the soft ride. The beauty is that you release all that water ballast when it comes time to retrieve and tow the boat. I am looking at the Surtees 575 as well as the Yellowfin 5800 (now called 6200). I like the light tow weight of the Surtees as well as having a single axle trailer (less maintenance). In the favour of the Yellowfin the wide beam gives you more room (and at a similar price).

Grapnel sinker are good at anchoring your rig - the wire prongs dig into the sand and release easily when you retrieve. I don't usually use more than 3 oz and don't encounter any problems with drift or getting good casting distance.

I like overheads in the Surf and your right there aren't many choices of rods. I have 2 Daiwa Sensor surf rods which are a bit over 11' . One is the old model which has been replaced by a slightly heavier version. The heavier one will throw around 3 -4 oz of lead and a whole pilchard quite well. There is a Crucius Synergy overhead rod which is more economically priced. Unless you are after sharks I don't think you really need a heavier rod than these. For reels I have an ABU 6500C Chrome Rocket, a Daiwa 7HT turbo mag and an ABU 7200C.

Looks like the Yellowfin 5800 - is that right? How does it go towing (what do you tow it with)? PS: I noticed it's the 6200 on closer inspection. Let us know how it performs after more offshore trips (I am considering getting the 5800).

Yes, if he is thinning it with water then that would be a hint.

Polyester fiberglass resin is not very waterproof. You can get epoxy fiberglass resin but it is not compatible with most chopped strand. I think Evadure is the go. You can paint over it as well for extra protection and better appearance. Ship Shape marine paint is good for this. I think it is made by Norglass.

Yes but I am not sure there will be a performance difference. The old 200 hp still has the 2 stroke advantages of torque and light weight. The main difference will be with fuel consumption, noise etc, which is not what he was asking about..

"As Zoran has pointed out the current 150hp can push his boat along at 43km/hr at 3500rpm which is pretty good if you ask me". I was referring to that statement and pointing out his current motor is actually a 200 hp. Also I am not sure what the relevance of it's age in making comparisons.

His current motor is actually a 200 hp. I am not sure if the age is relevant either. Even an old 2 stroke will have more useable torque than a current 4 stroke and be lighter too (albeit using a lot more fuel). Remember too that older boats weren't designed with 4 strokes in mind and that's why the Etecs are often favoured for re-powers.

If the wires are pinched and cut as you say then isn't that the likely source of the problem? Why did you use an old plug rather than just reconnecting the one already on the trailer? That way you are just changing one thing at a time (makes it easier to identify the fault). Also how old is the trailer? It is common for the wiring to corrode after 10 years or so and you are better off replacing the lot in that case (if there is no obvious source of the problem) - or do what I did and get a removable light board.

In the original post he was contemplating what back cruncher described, ie going from a 200 hp 2s to a 150 hp 4s. So it is a very valid point. Ie a big drop in hp coupled with the lower torque of a 4s (and extra weight) may lead to disappointing performance..

Yes, I was thinking along those lines, but it is a long time since I have worked on the brakes myself. I had another look at the trailer this afternoon and after a bit of a think. I gave the couple a taps with a big sledge hammer I conveniently had lying around and it does move a bit. It apparently has a spring inside to give a dampening effect. The spring would seem to be quite a powerful one (coupling is rated to 2000 kg) so perhaps it is normal not to be moved by hand or a light hammer.

I haven't done it for a while Fab1 but if my memory serves me it is quite fiddly getting the calipers back on with the brake pads if you remove them completely. So if you are not changing the bearings or pads it will be a lot easier to clean and lube the slides in situ if it's possible (I think I will give it a go). Likewise not having to move the boat and jacking it up.

Disk mechanical override or in other words rotor and caliper and cable.

Yes I'll try what you suggested to free up the coupling, then see if the brakes still drag. The arms seem fine on the calipers, but aren't the calipers meant to move also? Ie there is a sliding arrangement through the use of sleeves around the two bolts. It looks like they may have frozen up on one side. Do you think I might be able to re lubricate them without taking the wheel or calipers off?

Perhaps Raiders could help me with this. My trailer brakes are dragging (one side). I have a mechanical override system. I realise there could be a number of causes but I noticed that the override coupling is not sliding so this would be the first place to start. I can't free it up though, I have tried force (hammering the end) but it won't budge. There is a large nut on boat end - has anyone tried undoing that? Or any other suggestions?

The Shakespeare Ugly stick has been around since the 1970's and are a very tough rod. The have a fiberglass tip and graphite/ mix lower down. Others have copied the idea eg Silstar.

You are on the right track sticking to 2nm out (and maybe a bit further up and down the coast). Being a pressed tinny it is light in weight with a moderate V and so is not suitable for covering many miles of open ocean (no matter how good the skipper is). It will put you in range of the 70m depth reefs which are good drifting grounds. Keep an eye out for the charter boats as they will know the good grounds. There are also several map books available.

I used Selleys Armourflex to glue my perspex screen to the aluminium bracket. It's a very strong aghesive and is safe for aluminium. Don't use anything acidic on aluminium.

Some small outboards are rated for 100:1. I think they have needle bearings which helps them cope with the lower oil. Though I have heard it said that this is more a marketing idea and a concession to the environment and if you want your motor to last run 50:1. This is what I do with my Suzuki 30 hp as I run at WOT quite a bit. I have never had any problems with oiled up plugs.

Regarding Etecs I think impellers are more durable these days. Also it would be all over the internet if they were failing in less than 300 hrs and I haven't seen any reports. Also why would the gearbox oil need changing in less than 300 hrs? How often do you change the oil in your cars diff or transmission? I think the main problem with gearboxes on outboard is if the seal is broken eg due to damage from fishing line. But this could happen at any time so by all means do a regular inspection, but this can be done yourself. PS: some tinnies will perform a lot better with an Etec compare to a 4 stroke due to the weight issue and the difference in torque and power delivery.

You can get cheap tracking devices these days which interface with a smart phone. Locks and clamps are not a major obstacle if they really want your boat.

With an auto you can tow in performance mode and this should lock out the overdrive gears, as well as holding each gear for longer. If you look in your owners manual you will usually find this recommendation.

Fiberglass will add a lot of weight. I'd treat the wood with a penetrating epoxy resin like Evadure and then paint it with an epoxy marine paint such as Norglass Ship Shape. The wood will probably be better protected from moisture (and subsequent dry rot) this way.