Blade
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Posts posted by Blade
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Hi Raiders, I am looking for some pointers on where to get some squid and yakkas in the Port Hacking.
Launching from the Water Street or Wally's Wharf ramp. Looking for some suggestions on where to target squid and yakkas on my way out the heads.
Any pointers appreciated.
Blade
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I have checked the kill switch and checked that there is 12.5V coming into the motor.
Checked all earths
I checked for continuity on the stator and I have continuity on the charging coil but none on the spark coil. So I am thinking that is the issue.
I am trying to test the trigger but not sure how? Advise on this is appreciated, also if there is a way I could disconnect the kill switch to rule that out completely.
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Confirmed this morning no Spark on any of the cylinders.
Advised to check stator and trigger
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Not starting
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The motor has had all the standard stuff done. It is not turning over it looks like it is not gett spark.
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Hello Raiders,
I am looking for recommendations (please PM me) of reliable outboard mechanics.
I have a 2001 Mercury 2 Stroke 90hp that I need to have looked at.
I stay in Sutherland so looking for recommendations around the area or a mobile service.
Thanks
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51 minutes ago, GoingFishing said:
What size is your boat. Bonna point is extremely shallow on a low tide. You would need to time your arrival and return to the ramp away from peak low tide.
In any case. I wouldn't drop anything longer than 5m there.
Its a 5.5m Stessl Bluewater. Is Bonna Point shallower than The water Street ramp?
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On 10/4/2020 at 8:35 PM, Welster said:
Have you used Bonna Point ramp before? I have heard it can be quite shallow.
Most people get livies over near the tug boats at mol point. I think you could try and burley them up easy enough near captain cook landing spot. Squid are also in the Kurnell watts reef area.
Haven't used Bona Point ramp, I usually launch at Water Street ramp in the Hacking. Are there other ramps I could look to launch from. Happy to drive if it gets me closer to 12mile. Was thinking with the northerly winds that pick up in the afternoon I wanted to launch at a ramp that I would be travelling south to get to.
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Hi Raiders
I am doing some research on fishing 12 mile reef.
So far my plan is to launch at the Bonna Point ramp and get out to 12 mile from there.
I am looking for some advise:
1 I live in Surherland Shire is there a better ramp to launch from?
2 If I launch at Bonna Point where is the best place to stop and get some livies and or some squid
Thanks
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Hi Raiders,
Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they any good at smoothing out rough conditions?
Thanks in advance
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So after a fair bit of searching I cannot find a 2nd hand 18p prop only 19p. Spoke with the mechanic and hw reckons 19p would be an over prop.
Checked the mercury prop calculator online and they recomend an 18p in the vengeance and 19p in the aluminium.
Is there any reason not to look at an aluminium prop in 19p? Much cheaper would be able to buy a new one.
I also came across a brand I haven't heard of Baeksan, any advise re this brand?
Thanks
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Thanks all, only catching up on this thread now so to answer some questions.
The boat was not used as a ski boat only for fishing with 2-3 people and gear.
Boat has a large live bait tank but not that large that you would need to go to a smaller prop.
The mechanic reckons the previous owner must have damaged the prop that the boat came with and replaced it with this one because it was cost effective.
I am looking to get a good balance of hole shot and top end wanting to try a 19p and see how I go.
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Hi Raiders
Now that I have had a major service and tune up on my motor. The mechanic did a water test to sign off the motor he advised me that the prop that that I have is too small (it's a 16p vengeance)
He said the boat gets on the plane quickly but lacks top end and that the motor revs too high at WOT (6200 - 6300 rpm) he suggested an 18p Prop. But 18p seems to be an uncommon size (I am looking for a 2nd hand prop)
I have found a 2nd hand 19p prop would this work on my motor.
Motor and hull specs
Hull 2001 Stessl 5.5m Blue Water
Motor 2001 Mercury Saltwater 90hp 2 Stroke
Thanks in advance
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Thanks to everyone who offered advice. After a few days of Googling and reading up I had a conversation with the mechanic and sent him a copy of the service manuals reference to the 120psi.
He advised that they had done a boreoscope to visually inspect for damage or wear and they could not find any. This plus the leak down test plus the fact the motor runs to the Max rpm without issue makes me believe the compression numbers are probably due to a compression tester that is not calibrated properly and is reading low.
I am going to get this final bit of work done and then just enjoy the boat and motor.
Cheers
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1 minute ago, noelm said:
I wouldn't worry about the compression numbers, unless the motor is giving trouble, I personally wouldn't rebuild the fuel pump and carbs (it certainly won't hurt anything) the water pump and gear oil, plugs etc for sure.
The workshop is saying the fuel pump rebuild should be done annually, also because the motor is 20 years old the and I dont know when the carbs were last serviced they recon it is worth doing and then I dont have to worry about it again.
Do you think it is a waste? What benefit would I get from doing it vs the risk of not doing it?
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On 8/7/2020 at 5:37 PM, Blade said:
Called Mercury waiting for a call back- based on the feedback thus far it seems to be a reliable system that I should not worry about. I think that my motor has the plastic gear but I will ask Mercury to confirm.
Boat is still at the mechanic and they have suggested a carb strip down and rebuild, not knowing when last this was done it seems to make sense.
Is this something best left to the professionals? The labor costs are more than the parts hence me thinking perhaps I should give it a bash- any advice on this?
I also asked them to do a compression test and a leak down test, they reported that the compression is around 90PSI per cylinder. And the leak down test was within the expected range. The mechanic says that in his opinion the motor is healthy (he has water tested the motor)
Does 90PSI sound about right for this type and age of motor (350 hours on the clock)?
Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, I have been searching high and low online for more information around the compression.
In the service manual it refers to 120 PSI being acceptable, I asked the workshop to test using a different compression tester to eliminate the potential of the compression tester being faulty , the result was the same 90PSI across all 3 cylinders.
When I mentioned to the mechanic that the service manual noted 120PSI he said it is unusual for a manufacturer to list the PSI and that I am overthinking the PSI reading in his professional opinion provided the compression is not very low the most important thing to look for is the balance between the cylinders and that the motor revs up to the maximum WOT RPMS without issue and can maintain the WOT RPMS and then come back down to idle smoothly. The fact that they also did a leak down test that showed no cause for concern is confirmation of the engines health.
I dont doubt his experience or credentials, however before I spend more money on this motor (which will mean that I would have done the following on the motor should I go ahead with the carb and fuel pump rebuild -new impeller and gaskets, new gear case oil and seals, new spark plugs, new thermostat and gasket, new oil tank and oil level sensor, inline fuel filter, fuel water separating filter, carburetor strip down and rebuild, fuel pump strip down and rebuild, new steering cable) I want to make sure that mechanically the motor is sound and that spending the money is really just getting the maintenance up to date and for peace of mind not knowing what was done on the motor and when.
Should I be concerned about the 90PSI or is it nothing to worry about.
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Called Mercury waiting for a call back- based on the feedback thus far it seems to be a reliable system that I should not worry about. I think that my motor has the plastic gear but I will ask Mercury to confirm.
Boat is still at the mechanic and they have suggested a carb strip down and rebuild, not knowing when last this was done it seems to make sense.
Is this something best left to the professionals? The labor costs are more than the parts hence me thinking perhaps I should give it a bash- any advice on this?
I also asked them to do a compression test and a leak down test, they reported that the compression is around 90PSI per cylinder. And the leak down test was within the expected range. The mechanic says that in his opinion the motor is healthy (he has water tested the motor)
Does 90PSI sound about right for this type and age of motor (350 hours on the clock)?
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@zmk1962 I have checked the service manual for my motor. It just notes (models with oil pump warning module) as the service manual covers a number of models. I have had a look at the oil pump and there are no wires coming out of it or anywhere else on the oil injection system. The only wires I could find were on the oil tank itself.
Would putting a flow sensor inline be an option, I would have to figure out how to connect it to an alarm or buzzer in the event that the oil flow stops.
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1 hour ago, noelm said:
There is a warning system, oil injection failures are rare, your mechanic is correct, most disconnect the system on bad advice or because some "old time" back yard mechanic said so.
Can you clarify if there is a warning system for oil injection failure, my mechanic said my motor doesn't have one and he is not aware of an aftermarket option
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Hi Raiders,
I recently purchased a boat with powered by a MERCURY 2001 90 Model number 1090412YY serial number OT277836
Since buying it I have spent far more than I could ever have imagined sorting out things that haven't been attended to over the past few years and the costs are really building up.
One of the recent expenses was the replacement of the oil tank and sensor to get the low oil warning system working again, this was the advice I was given at the time. After having done some reading it seems the popular approach when the low oil warning system goes is to bypass the oil injection system and premix.
I have obviously already spent the money and had the work done on the oil tank and low oil level warning system, the thing that is now worrying me is the thought of the oil injection pump failing, there is no warning system linked to the oil pump so provided there is oil in the tank no alarm would sound and I would be none the wiser.
The mechanic says that oil pump failure on this model motor is very rare and I would have to be extremely unlucky to have this happen to me (the way the expenses have been coming through on this boat one could argue that my luck is not the best) does anyone have any experience or insights on the reliability on these oil injection systems.
Is there a way I could fit either an oil flow sensor or an oil pressure sensor (it runs at 2 PSI so would need to be able to trigger an alarm should the pressure drop below say 1.5PSI)
Or is the only option to bypass the oil injection system and pre mix and write off the money I have already spent to experience?
Looking forward to hearing from fellow raiders.
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On 7/19/2020 at 8:08 AM, Blade said:
Another thing I noticed was a crack in the motor housing around the gear selector, it is in a very hard to notice place, I only noticed it when I was putting the lower leg back in.
Judging by the corrosion around the crack I would guess it has been this way for a while.
If any raiders can please offer some insight on this.
Took the boat in the mechanic said the crack is very unusual but won't cause any issues so happy about that.
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I found the attached diagram online, the two wires highlighted in yellow have been disconnected on my motor. There is also a tan/blue and black wire that I found have been disconnected.
I will do the continuity test on the oil sensor as per the manual to confirm if it is faulty.
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15 minutes ago, noelm said:
Is the oil injection still working? I thought you said it was disconnected?
Oil injection seems to be working the oil tank empties when the motor is run.
I have added close 4 L of oil to the tank in about 20-30 hours of operation
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Is it a problem if I have made a seal around the exhaust chamber?
I will get the alarm reconnected. I think the reason people disconnect them is because the flair switch is not sold separately it comes as a complete unit so it is pretty expensive.
If I can afford to have the oil sensor reconnected I am going to ask if just the overheat sensor can be connected.
I always check the oil level before going out and I always have oil in the boat with me just in case, but first prize is to get them all working.
Land based squid locations Port Hacking
in Fishing Chat
Posted
Hi Raiders
With the weather not playing along I haven't been able to get the boat out. While I wait for the weather to improve I am looking to improve my squidding and hopefully catch a feed or stock up the bait freezer.
Any tips on good land based squid locations on the Port Hacking are appreciated.
Cheers
Blade