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lhan

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lhan last won the day on February 20

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  1. 🤣 I guess there's one group member wanna do solo... Better luck next time man!
  2. Congratulations! And I believe there's a lot more to come! Lure fishing makes it more fun when you explore different methods and lures along the journey - it's so lucky we have great mentors and buddies here. Great report too!
  3. I've tried all of them in Meadowbank/Putney area and had very good results on both Texas/Carolina rig but not on dropshot. I also tried to fish Texas/Carolina rig in middle harbour (hallstorm point) once with no success sadly, but sample size is only one. Texas/Carolina rig to me, for Sydney estuary fishing, are essentially the same rig (90% snag free rig) with only one difference - the speed/control of falling. Because the existence of the swivel on C-rig, after the sinker hit the bottom, there's still a falling period for the plastics when we all know it has the highest bite rates. The falling period is affected by how long your leader and how heavy your plastic is apparently. On the other hand, it's a bit harder to achieve the same length of free fall for Texas rig. The sinker tends to run towards the hook which leads to a much faster but unnatural falling. I tend to have the bail arm open for a while after sinker hit the water when I'm using Texas-rig, this will allow the sinker to sink first without straightened line forcing it sliding towards the hook. But don't do this when it's windy - wind knots are not fun and I learnt it the hard way. The nature of the emphasis on falling really weighs lure choice towards grub style, especially on C-rig. Texas rig is a bit more flexible imo because the sinker sorta serves as rattling generator to draw attention from predators - I caught some good bream on minor drag/slow roll on the bottom using paddletails/prawnz. Again, snag-prevention makes this possible in upper Parra. To answer some of your question: 1. there're some sinkers specifically for these rigs with inner plastic/extremely polished. But I didn't really have any issue on my 6lbs braid using kmart sinkers... I don't have the chance to do long sessions like you tho 😆 2. I had a feeling the sinker will touch the hook finally at some stage (this is also why T-rig has the best ability to travel thru snags - the sinker cut the way out first). So you can assume that's the case. C-rig is a bit harder because you're lifting the sinker at the end anyway. 3. I use size 6 for 2 inches crabby and 2.5 inches grubz/swim slimz. Also I had no issue doing size 1 hook on 2.75 inches noodle grub. So maybe just give it a try... I feels that dropshot is pretty good when you know where the strike zone is but for land based fishing we're mainly "scanning" so I didn't give it much time. Can't really comment on that Hope this helps and looking forward to any other advice too!
  4. Another great report and congratulations on the new rod! I've been eyeing on the shoregun series for my shore jigging setup for quite a while...
  5. Hi I'm trying to do a braid - light leader - heavier leader. I think a double uni will do on the light leader - heavier leader connection, just seeking if there is better knot and generally how heavy and long the "heavier" leader should be. Thanks!
  6. Thanks for the reply @Steve0 @zmk1962 @mrsswordfisherman! Please accept my apology first as I made it confusing - I'm using fg knot to connect my braid mainline to flurocarbon leader now, mainly 6lb main to 4-8 fc leader. The issue is by-catches happen a lot when I'm using light lines where it's getting expensive quite quickly 😂. I heard there's some bream fishos would tie a short bite leader (like 20cm I guess?) in addition to the existing 4/6lbs flurocarbon leader. I'm seeking advice on what's the general rule on this trick. It's a good enforcement learning with all the details tho, really appreciate still !
  7. Some fish raiders mentioned bite leader on light setup which I finally down to give it try after quite some flathead by-catch destroyed my thin leader. Could someone please shed some light on how it should be done? Mono or fluro? How it's supposed to connect to the original thing leader? Which knot is preferred? How long/thick is optimal? Thanks in advance! PS. sorry for the confusion - I mean the bite leader tied in addition to the existing fc leader used by bream fishos to avoid flatty destroying thin lines. Not braid to leader
  8. Great catch! Sometimes fish just wanna break the lure rules I guess. I caught a bream on metal jig recently which seriously surprised me. And I was using 10lb leader!
  9. Exactly what I've experienced from my last session - 60-70cm flatty lost due to no net and leader snapped off while the final landing. Within the same session I also hooked either a king or huge Jew that SMOKED my 3000 fuego and finally pulled hook. As you said, that's fishing, all these facts make us addicted to it.
  10. That's a monster trev actually it could be one's PB for quite some time. But maybe not for you mate . You did a really good job fighting the fish I reckon! With our obsession with light tackles I do see it's a must for me to bring a net now. I lost a 60+ flathead right at my feet when my scuffed 8lb leader gave up lifting that chunky girl last weekend. And before that I lost quite a few really good fish in Rushcutters bay when I try to lift them from the rock wall. Oh man I still can remember how that lizard turned her huge head and slowly swam away from me...
  11. Sounds like another great session! And it's a stunning whiting on the new brag mat
  12. And it is LIGHT, my C3000 is only 220g with braid. Not Vanford level but better than Shimano non-CI4 offerings. And I believe it at least feels more rigid compared to CI4 reels. I love the idea of magseal - perfect for estuary fishing at least. I also learned the tiny bit heavier crank feeling is from the thickened magseal grease (Daiwa Japan has a service to remove magseal or ST series for high end finesse reels). On the other hand, I heard some heavy inshore/offshore people actually hate it due to needs of Daiwa exclusive maintainance. Not bothering me since it's relatively cheap, I just enjoy it as consumables.
  13. another crack session @linewetter! As for the squidgies, I found them a lot less durable than Zman/Rapala ones. Many of mine won't last more than 1 catch till they're ripped or tails bitten off. And not many of us are using Daiwa fuego here I just noticed - it's such a nice reel but I found the bail arm is a bit clunky or even self open under heavy load (when I tried flip the line trying to save a snag, but I never had a big fish giving this sudden big drag). Still I feels the drag is MUCH MUCH MORE linear and smooth than shimano low end reels
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