Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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Mike I have a few questions which , depending on the answers , may help pin point the problem.
Was the motor on or off when this photo was taken
If on , were you traveling or stationary
If traveling at a constant speed , does the clutter change (increase or decrease) as you move along
Did you try , with the engine in netural increasing the rev's to see if the degree of clutter changed
If traveling , Dose the clutter change in relation to an increase or decrease in the engine rev's
Depending on your answers , it may narrow down the problem to either , sensitivity , engine interference , crap in the water or turbulance from either the prop or from under the boat.
Geoff
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The top of the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the transom. If still a problem drop it a few mm more.
If after that you are still getting cavitation do as Gazza suggests , not to turn too sharp or , you could fit a Permatrim.
Geoff
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Merries Reef is in the N/E corner of the bay. It's a bit of a hike from the river & depending on sea conditions should be approached with caution as it can break without warning.
The attached map shows Osborne Shoals .
The reef area around Jibbon Bommie is worth a try but watch the bommie carefully as it breaks most of the time.
Flatties , head East & try at different depths from about 25 meters to as wide as your comfortable
Geoff
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Hi David It's been a while since I've seen you on the site , guess you have been busy with other things.
Let's see the pic's but I suspect the whole frame will need to be removed , reposition the rubber & perspect back into the track , maybe with a bead of silicon to hold it in place , allow to dry then refit to the boat.
Geoff
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It's unlikely to be salt as it would need special piping , electricity supply & a pump.
Perhaps someone could advise on the tap to see what hose fittings are required or restrictions may apply
Geoff
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I'm not an expert on sand migration due to tidal flow but just trying to apply some common sense to the problem.f1shen, on 02 Oct 2013 - 08:02 AM, said:
More of an issue at the Kurnell boat ramp is the fact that it abuts a groyne - any dredging that takes place there will be filled in again with sand relatively quickly which is captured by the groyne. You can see how the sand is creeping up the concrete ramp. Unfortunately it's not worth the Council's time or money to get a dredge in every six months. The smart money would have been to replace the groyne with a longer, built up ramp to take boats past the weed and into deeper water, but that means big initial outlay for the Council, and they'd probably prefer to spend it on more cockatoo proof bins, or redoing the pavement in Sutherland than spend it on improving access to the water.
Take a look at the old ramp . The interesting thing , there is no sand on the ramp,
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=22223
Looking towards the water at the new ramp the LH lane which is in the same place as the old ramp has no sand to speak of , where as the RH lane which has been built closer to the groin is covered.
The large groin is already quite long & I don't think dreadging will do much in the long term.
They simply need to take a Bobcat or Backhoe , remove the sand then extend the small rock wall on the edge of the ramp to at least the end of the ramp to prevent the sand from migrating.
Councils are not very bright when it comes to addressing these issues & as you mention allocating funds.
This reminds me of the sand migration problem at Little Beach ramp at Pt Stevens.
What did Council do , prohibeted boats from driving onto trailers. The prop thrust would have pushed the sand away from the ramp but driving off , which pushed sand onto the ramp , was OK.
How bright is that ???
Geoff
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Unfortunately the new single lane boat ramp that they built only allows boats to be launched 2 to 3 hrs either side of High Tide. Something to do with Council not having gained approval to dredge the ramp.
Be good if we got some councillors who fish out of trailer boats.
Cheers
Paikea
I understand the Greens got their nose into the design claiming the weedy area was a fish breading area.
The chances of fish breeding in this area with all the boat traffic is very unlikely.
Your correct regarding the 2 / 3 hours , especially when retreiving.
It's been a few months since I was last at the ramp. Is one lane still covered by sand making it a one lane ramp.
If they extended the rock wall on the side it should reduce the sand onto the ramp. Also , there was a about a 6 - 8" drop off at the end of the ramp .
It only requires a few concrete railway type sleepers to make it more user friendly.
The bottom line , the ramp is a big improvement on the previous ramp but after spending a lot of $$$ it still has considerable limitations.
Geoff
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It's unlikely there is any sand left in the system , it normally just flushes out within a few minuits.
As to the flow , whilst there is no overheating at presant , if the flow appears less than normal it will tend to deteriate over time so suggest the water pump be serviced.
Geoff
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Check the actual length & usable fishing space.
550 suggests the boat is 5.5mt but BC's have a pronounced nose / bow spit which I understand is included in the length but in essence , has , from a fishing aspect , no benifit.
In other words your paying for 5.5mt but actually getting something some what smaller than other 5.5mt boats.
Geoff
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Depends on a number of aspects.
Service history
General condition
Is it from a dealer , warrenty??
If private , why is it for sale
Do a compression test
Price
Is it possible to do a test run
Is there a good stream of water from the tell tail , may need a new water pump.
Check the condition of the oil in the gear box.
If the motor has been well maintained & has good compression 430 hours would not be a problem for a 2S
Geoff
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Kuvo. I only fish during the week to beat the crowds. Normally launch at Grays Point & fish close (up to 5k's) offshore.
On occusions , launch at Kurnell
Sometimes do a bit of trolling but mainly bottom bashing.
The selected day is very much weather dependant , gental breeze , low swell. It's no fun trying to fish in rough water.
The boat is a 4.9mt Webster Runabout
If this is of interest , let me know & I will keep you in mind.
Geoff
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Yowie. I've found, using black traces with black swivels tends to be a lot less attractive or perhaps noticable than silver or brass. Since changing my losses have decreased considerably.Switched over to wire traces, but lost a couple of them when the jackets attacked the line above the trace.
Having the sinker some distance down the trace , away from where the line joins the trace , also draws their attention away from the join.
Should they attack the join , I have found braid line appears to be far more durable than nylon type line.
Geoff
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Next item , a small electric so you can move & fish at the same time.
Fished Bate Bay on Tuesday. The fish were a bit more copperative than your experience.
There were reports of Trout in the river after the last big rain , any sign or recent reports , perhaps they have moved on.
Geoff
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Tiles. Whilst the plugs may have been incorrect & new plugs have made starting easier , I go back to your origional post where it is OK when hot but not cold.
" When starting from cold i have to keep choking it by pushing key in for a second until revs pic up, revs will die down again after about 5 seconds then choke it again this can go on for 2-3 minutes until it will idle on its own. It runs and starts fine once warmed up."
I don't claim to be an expert on plugs but I have never found either in cars or outboards that plugs cause the problem you decribed.
From my experience the reverse applies , plugs brake down when hot or under high load not when cold.
I'm happy to be corrected if wrong.
Plugs appeared to have helped but I would still be a bit nervious about the fuel system.
Geoff
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I'm on the ;lookout or a reasonably priced motorised dolly, too. In my case, my driveway is very steep. I drive up into the garage, then unhook the trailer and manhandle it across the flatter part of the driveway at the top, onto an extension slab I had laid off to the side, so that the boat and trailer sit parallel to the front of the house. I can just manage it on my own (if I remove the anchor, the fuel tank and all my fishing gear etc) but if I get a bigger boat or a little bit older, I'm sure I will struggle - it's nearly gotten away from me a few times...!
Baz
Baz My situation is very similar hence the purchase of a trailer mover. As mentioned in previous posts my unit has no shortage of power , the occusional problem is traction.
When I was looking around I considered the options of ride on mowers , quad bikes & electric golf carts.
I found anything half decent at that time was rather expensive & for me , there was the problem of a space to park it when not in use but this option is well worth considering if the $$$ are right & parking is not a problem.
There are a lot of trailer movers on the market & it is very much , buyer beware as there are some cheapies around & you get what you pay for.
The one I thought best was a brand called Towdog. The position of the tow ball provided good weight distrubition , hence good traction , also , they are remote controled.
They were being sold by a small marine place out Windsor way however checking the web they appear to be no longer available.
There is a second hand one on the web at less than 50% of a new unit but if it breakes down , parts may be a problem.
http://m.gumtree.com.au/v?adId=1025133106
Geoff
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It's a fuel problem. As it starts & runs fine when hot then it's more than likely the primer bulb or chokes are not working properly.
It's not uncommon for the internal valve to fail. Hold the primer bulb in a vertical position with the outlet upwards , pump the bulb. If not going hard then replace the bulb.
If the bulb is OK , remove the air intake / air filter so you can see the choke butterflies. Activate the choke to see if they are all closing to the same position.
One , maybe more are not closing correctly.
Geoff
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Went shopping last Saturday , purchased 4 of the blades reccomended in the earlier posts.
Subject to weather conditions , will be heading out early next week & give them a try.
Geoff
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I was made redundant 3 times over a 15 year period. Redundancy money is there to tie you over until a new position becomes available so don't rush out paying the mortgage just yet..
Every one's situation is different so it's difficult to provide specific advice but here are a few that may be of interest,
The first is to check the market for new position. There are no shortage of employment agencies around. Depending on your experience & industry a good place to start is with SEEK & My Career. There are links there to creating a job profile.
This is not a CV but a list of options that you match your profile or preferred jobs.
As jobs that match that profile become available they are E Mailed then it's up to you to apply. In essence , just sit back & wait for the mail to arrive.
You can set up as many profiles as you like. It is wise to have one for permanent work & another for temp , part time or contract work.
As to the financial side , place the money in the bank , perhaps some in a term deposit. Whilst interest rates are crap at present it is important to have easy access to funds for day to day living.
Once you have a job then consider paying off some debts. However , having said that , if you have personal loans or credit card debt which are incurring high interest then paying all or some off should be considered.
With home loan interest rates being at an all time low this would be the last payment option on the list.
Geoff
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My concern with bladed is at nearly $20 a pop I'm paranoid to use it. Never cracked a bream on one mainly because too scared of putting it out in their habitats.
Sarge I have a similar concern using them over reef.
I'll start in sandy arears & depending on the results will progress from there.
Fishing outside in 30 - 50 mt's with a reasonable drift , getting the lure to the bottom may be a problem.
I'm thinking of a rig , sinker on the bottom & about a meter or two up a dropper , perhaps 1 - 2 mt long to which the lure would be attached.
I'm not sure now this effect the lure action so will need to do some testing.
If it works , the same rig over a rough botton using a lightline , say 4 - 5 lb to the sinker then if the sinker becomes snagged the line should break & hopefully retreive the lure before it sinks to the bottom.
Geoff
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Should also look at the new berkely UV blades when they come out
In surfing around the web to try & find the difference between the current range & the new UV.
From what I can see the new range is basically the use of UV paint & perhaps some different colours.
The actual shapes appear to be very similar.
Have I missed something ??
Geoff
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Thanks for all the replies. Blades are now definatly on the shopping list.
nbdshroom. Tks for the colour tip , "Only the blues, greens and purples prevail at deeper depths."
Went to two tackle stores this arvo , one only had what I would call el cheapo (junk) & the other had about 10 pegs for assorted Strikepro size & colour & not one luer in stock.
Spoke with the sales guy who will chase up further supplies.
Could not find Ecogear at either store.
There is no shortage of online tackle stores who sell these luers but I would prefer to go to a tackle store to make a selection. Just a matter of finding one with out traveling all over Sydney.
Geoff
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Thanks guys , I'm heading to the tackle store shortly & will check out your suggestions.
nbdshroom. You have also answered another question I've been meaning to ask , a suitable lure for fishing deeper water , 20 - 50 mt for flatties.
Being heavy , sounds like blades would be well worth a try
Geoff
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I have a small collection of luers & thinking of purchasing one or two blade luers .
Are they worth it or just a variation or option to other hard body styles.
Has any one done a result comparision between blades & other designs. Are they better to other hard bodies ?.
What are the best colours for flathead or bream ?
Geoff
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Is it aluminium or fiberglass ??
Geoff
So these sounder marks look right?
in Boating
Posted
Mike What HDS is it , the 5 ??
As for the depth setting , if not sure select Menu. There should an option to set the depth or use Auto .
On some models the is a custom range where upper & lower depths can be set. Unless you have a specific need , this is not a function I would be playing around with.
From what you describe , it sounds like there is interferance from the motor . Sugest you revisit the the sensitivity settings.
Select menu , there is a function with the option to use Auto or set your own.
Other than that I think it is "a matter of trial & error" Perhaps note the 5 questions I asked previously & when next on the water check each one out & note the difference in the screen appearence.
Geoff