Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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Using a gurni will force water inside.
Do the drag up tight & give them just a light spray with water or a quick rinse under a tap , then loosen off the drag.
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I understand what you are suggesting is to bypass the bulb and run a short line straight to the fuel pump. I'll try this if the test tomorrow fails but so far I think the bulb is fine.
Sarge. From what you say , the bulb is OK when manually operated. Whilst it is unlikely , the internal valve may be sticking when relying on the fuel pump to suck fuel through , also if there is an air leak some where in the fuel line it won't show up when manually priming the bulb.
Just to clarify my suggestion , the test is to by pass every thing from the tank to the pump , ie fuel lines, filter , primer bulb , fittings etc
You have not mentioned it earlier but have the carbys been drained to ensure there is no water in the bowls
If the fuel by pass test does not isolate the problem , ie , it's electrical not fuel, check with Huey if your motor has a cut out function connected on or near the thermostat that shuts the motor down if over heating occurs.
I know from your earlier comments the motor is not actually overheating but these sensors have been know malfunction & send faulse signals which can turn off the ignition
Geoff
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Sarge. I've just noticed you used E10 fuel. It's unlikely this is causing your current problem but I understand on some outboard brands or models it can cause problems by perishing parts of the fuel hoses or gaskets.
Also , E10 attracts moisture from the air & over a period of time can add water to the tank.
This is not a problem with cars which have a fuel system designed to use E10 & that most cars are filled with fresh fuel on a weekly basis or so.
For boats which can be parked for months at a time the water build up becomes an issue.
Suggest you only use Unleaded , if that's not available then use Premium.
One other thought , do you have any of the clear reinforced plastic hose between the tank & the motor.??
If so , this becomes hard over a period of time & the seal between the hose & the fitting allows air in.
Geoff
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Thanks Geoff, that's looks like the way to go. Cheers Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Don't forget to fit an inline fuse. I would suggest between the battery terminal & the back of the socket. By having it there , then the circuit is always fused regardless what accessory you may choose to connect.
Geoff
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To check if its a fuel problem, when its not starting squirt a bit of fuel down each carby and then crank it over and see if it starts. That way you can cover that possibility.
Sarge. I had a similar problem some years ago with my Yamaha 2S & it was fuel. I did all the things you have done & it still would not go.
Off to the mechnic who removed the filter & the housing to find the filter was OK but the inlet spiggot into the filter blocked.
To compond the problem they discovered the hose between the tank & filter was not correct & was sucking air.
Perhaps there is an air leak some where in your fuel system
To take Roylo suggestion one step further & to determine if it's fuel or electrical , connect a hose directly to the fuel pump & the other into the top of the tank , ie , by passing ever thing in between.
As there will be no priming bulb , the pump may take a minuite or so to suck the fuel through so if , the fuel tank is some distance away , then fill a small container with fuel & have it close to the motor so the hose is as short as possible.
If the motor runs OK then it is a process of elimation where the problem lies in the fuel feed system.
Geoff
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. The pump just has clips to the battery I was thinking of cutting the cable and wiring cigarette male and female sockets inline so I can turn it off and on without messing around with the battery box lid all the time, HD
I fitted a socket to the battery lid so I can charge the battery without removing the lid.
The same fitting could be used to run your pump.
The plug & socket set available from Bias for about $10.
Geoff
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The boat would be OK on a good day however , if the wind get's up it can become very choppy , very quickly.
There are 4 ramps in or near the Bay area. Depending on the wind direction launch at the one which will be most protected ,
EG , If from the N/E , launch at Foreshore Drive & fish the Northern side of the Bay.
If from the South , launch at Kurnell to fish the Southern side.
As for fishing spots this map is a good place to start. If you buy on line there is additional postage & handling so check out a few tackle stores around the Bay area , they should have them in stock
http://www.afn.com.au/store/AFN-Fishing-Maps/c14/p27/Map-23:-Botany-Bay/product_info.html
Geoff
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Headed down to Currarong on Friday with the family. Weatherwise , could not have picked a worst weekend but the accomodation had been booked & paid for a month ago.
It stopped raining long enough on Saturday to take a walk out to Whale Point where the remains of the SS Merimbula can just be seen.
For those who know Currarong these pic's may be of interest.
The entrance to the Rock Pool,
Looking across the bay from the Rock Pool.
Whale Point , the remains of the Merimbula can be seen on the left.
Whale Point looking S/E
The boat ramp
The creek entrance
Even though the weather was RS & no fishing , we still had a good time.
Geoff
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If you dont already have one , purchase one of those inexpensive blue or green tarps to cover the boat along with a coil of thin rope & tilt the trailer up so the water can run off.
Geoff
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Was this when the motor was out of gear & running in idle ??
At the risk of stating the obvious , perhaps it was just exaust gas.
Geoff
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hi Mate
Best thing to use to keep the rust off your rotors is to mix 50/50 linseed oil and turps in a spray bottle and spray the rotors after use.
Its cheap and it works, doesnt effect the brake system.
Ray
How did you detetmine spraying oil on rotors does not effect the performance , especially over a period of time where the pads would get an oil buildup.
If parking your car for a month or so , would you use the same 50/50 mix.?
Geoff
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Josh The other aspect to consider is the height of the boat on the trailer.
Wide mono hulls are OK due to the V shap hull allowing the boat to sit over the mudguards & still be at a reasonable height.
With a twin hull , where the beam is greater than 2.0mt , this is normally not possible as the hull sits on top of the guards making the boat rather high .
It is not necessarly a drama , just something to keep in mind.
Geoff
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Shoal bay an optional but big problem is sheer number and size of the trailer boats h
Shoal Bay ramp has recently been upgraded but still best suited to boats under 5.5mt especially if a N/E is blowing or there is swell coming through the heads.
The car park has also been upgraded & sealed but the parking is still limited.
It's still worth checking out prior to lining up at Little Beach.
Geoff
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I have a 27meg radio , it works fine for both inshore & close off shore which is all I need.
Having said that , a question I have had for some time , other than a legal requirement , why do I need a licence to opperate a VHF radio.??
Their both radio's , they both do the same thing all be it that one is technically better than the other so , what is different about a VHF that I need to do a course & pay for a licence.
Geoff
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Bustoff . As Day's Fishin say's ,
How does the motor warm up to operating temperature with water pumping straight through? I had problems a number of years ago with a Mariner overheating when trolling and it was the thermostat's. There was 2 in my motor?
There is something in the motor sensing the heat & causing it to " kick back into nutral if over 15 knots" .
Normally this is connected to the thermostat.
Geoff
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Hi guys,
If I just sit in the river, hardly anything comes out. But If I go to wards the ocean, drive fast, turn corners, fill up the bait tanks a lot more comes out.
Is that normal?
As others have said , there is a leak some where pushing the water in when on the plane.
Fishing with a friend a few years back , got back to the ramp , removed the bung & water pored out. Discovered the inlet pipe into the deck wash pump had come loose.
An easy fix & all was OK
Geoff
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From what you describe , it is OK when the motor is cold but after it warms up then the problem arises.
Have you removed & checked the thermostat both for salt build up & actual opperation. It's not uncommon for these to develop a fault
Geoff
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hi im pretty sure you measure the boat along the bottom of hull only.
Either bow to top on the transom or bow to the bottom of the transom are accepted by Maritime.
Most manufactures use the longest of the two so they can badge the boat with the larger number.
Geoff
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Did you actually measure the boat , from the photos it looks more like 4.6.
A boat of that size could take a 50 or perhaps a 60hp motor.
Check with Huey , he may reconise the name.
Geoff
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There is a place in Seven Hills called Australian Boat Screen Maunfacture , they may be able to help.
Other than that , Google Boat Screens , There are a few around but most appear to be interstate.
Geoff
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I've just had a look around the web , am I correct in saying the Structure Scan option is an additional $600 - $650 ??
If so the HDS 5 with SS cost around $1400 where as the DSI 5 with Down Scan , which may not be quite as advanced , is half the price at a realistic $700.
Pony181 , for the area your fishing the HDS with SS is rather difficult to justify.
Geoff
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- Vessels engaged in fishing activities and showing appropriate signals.
What are the "appropriate signals" ??
I assume it does not mean throwing sinkers , shouting abuse or offending hand signals.
Geoff
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For the area your fishing I would be leaning towards the DSI which includes Down Scan as a standard feature .
The HDS is approx $100 more expensive & whilst it has newer technology & is more powerfull I think the Structure scan is an optional extra costing more $$$$$.
Also , I seem to recall a comment in a previous post that fish images are better on one unit than the other but cannot remember which one.
Perhaps points worth checking with the retailer.
Geoff
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I think your Dad is comparing boats to motor cars. Provided the boat , in particular the motor & trailer are looked after there is no comparrison between the two.
Aluminium boats are virtually indestructible.
To give you 2 examples , I purchased a 1966 4.5mt Quintrex in the early 80's , kept it for 10 years & sold it for more than I origionally paid. It was 37 years old
My current boat is 9 years old & it's second hand value is similar to what I paid in 2003.
As Blood Knot said , basically it's the motor you need to focus on. If it has been flushed after each outing & serviced (the seller should have records) then it will run trouble free for many , many years.
Geoff
Can this leak be repaired?
in The Bar
Posted
Could you provide a bit more information ,
Where is it leaking from , around the ram or somewhere else ?
What brand of motor , age , HP etc
What is the rusty container with the lable , the oil reservar?
Geoff