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Royce, You make me feel so old. Not sure about your Sportex numbering though. I used three Sportex rods when I was seriously chasing blackfish off the Sydney Rocks: a 541 (about 10'9'' and too short), a 662 (as you say, a bit light), and a 3903, which I preferred to the 3902 after my experiences with the two-wrap 662. If I recall correctly, the 3904 was best used as a light beach rod. Are you sure you're not thinking of a shortened 3906 as the ultimate jew stick?. In its full length form the six wrap 3906 was commonly used in the 70s for heavy bottom fishing for snapper and also with a Seascape reel for casting lures to tuna and kingfish (at least up until shorter, faster taper and lighter alternatives came along). I still have trouble understanding what's good about cane or solid glass fishing rods. But to each his own. Tight lines, Bob

Hi danilo, Not sure if I can be much help, certainly not with the personal situation, as I fished Bondi in the 70s -- things have probably changed a lot since then. Hopefully, for the better: back then there was less concern for the environment -- the sewerage works at North Bondi and Maroubra would pour raw sewerage straight into the ocean. I never fished at the "Murks", although the water colour everywhere would noticeably change during a strong on-shore breeze, when crap would get washed back onto the beaches. I did however, catch my first luderick off the rocks at McKenzie's Point, which is at the southern end of Bondi Beach, between Bondi and Tamarrama. For a couple of years I fished McKenzie's regularly for blackfish, and caught my fair share. But I also observed how other species were caught. From about December on, right through to about the end of May, the low ledges on both sides of the Point used to fish well for blackfish. On the southern side you could fish for blackfish over the sand, right back up into the bay between McKenzie's and Tamarrama. One of the regulars used to catch snapper and other species by bottom fishing from the higher ledge just seaward where we used to catch blackfish. If you try that, however, it would be important to cast at least 50 yards onto the sandy bottom, otherwise you will lose your terminal tackle every time. Provided you used only a small ball sinker above your baited hook, there might also be good bream to be caught over the sand, fishing the top of the tides from the high rock at the back of the bay Hope this helps. Good luck. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, What a topic! Where to begin? I guess by being grateful. I suspect I'm like a few other contributers to this post. I came onto the fishing scene around the time that rangoon cane and solid glass rods were being phased out and the first amazing new hollow glass rods by Slazenger and hollow glass Sportex blanks imported from Germany were turning up. Can't say I was sad to see the end of rangoon cane and solid glass (both being more suited for use as gaff handles or garden stakes than fishing rods) but I still have my old 13' Sportex 3903 luderick rod, a superb tool for taming big blackfish off the rocks. And remember those old brass ferules that would stick if they corroded? Or would wear and become loose. Not nearly as good as modern glass or graphite ferrules built into the rod. Sorry Royce, I can't really see much use for cane and solid glass anymore. I know some older trouties get very nostalgic about new hand-crafted or vintage cane fly rods, but I've never been able to understand why, even though I'm a big fan of the writings of John Gierach. The reason hollow glass, graphite/glass composite, and high modulus carbon graphite have taken over is that they are so much better for making fishing rods. But of course, the basic material from which a rod is made is only one factor in determining how it performs. Just as important IMHO is the taper of the blank, and also the quality of the resins that hold everything together. It's here where I reckon the big breakthroughs have occurred. I can remember my excitement when I bought my first Butterworth/Schneider multi-taper blank, it was so much faster than the old hollow glass blanks that we had been using. I still have my old MT 7144 "beakie pelter", but it now pelts WA pilchards. And thirty five years on you can still buy the blanks, so they have withstood the test of time. But the new space-age epoxy resins have made the greatest difference. How did we get buy before them? Not only have glass and carbon graphite blanks become so much lighter but they are incredibly responsive due largely to the strength of the resins used. As for the differences between hollow glass and graphite, I have more than a dozen of each, and a few composites too. Up to about fifteen years ago, I was a bit wary of graphite and only used it for my fly rods. But over the years graphite has got better and better, to the stage where the last three rods I've bought, a two-piece 7' light threadline rod for fishing soft plastics, a three-piece 7' medium-heavy travel baitcaster rod and a two-piece 8'6'' medium-heavy baitcaster rod, have all been high modulus graphite. I enjoy using my hollow glass rods, and I'll continue to use them. But if I were starting out now I'd go for graphite for most of my rods, perhaps with the exception of those intended for use off the rocks, which could receive rough handling. There's no stopping progress. Regards, Bob

Hi timzz, Welcome to Australia. Which country are you from? You'll find plenty of people on this site who can help you with rock fishing. I could be one of them: while I no longer fish "the stones", I did for many years, and started over forty years ago. I used to fish the from the rocks near the pool at Maroubra, and also at Bondi, in the 70s and from the Harbord rocks in the 80s. The most important thing to know about rock fishing is that it's DANGEROUS: each year dozens of foolish or careless fishos get washed in, many drown. No fish, no matter how large, is worth risking your life for. Think twice about fishing the low rocks if the swell is much over a metre. And never just go down on to the low ledges and immediately start fishing -- observe the sea for ten minutes from up high first. Swells come in "sets", several small or medium waves, then a big "boomer". That's the one that will get you -- it only takes one big wave to wash you in. It also pays to think ahead: by fishing with company-- several sets of eyes are more likely to spot a dangerous wave, particularly if you're pre-occupied landing a fish; and by planning an "escape route", should you need to quickly retreat to higher ground. The gear you need? Where you intend to fish and the species you intend to capture will be your guide. It's a good idea to go down to the rocks and see what the local use and how they go about using it. Many local fishos will respond well to a friendly approach, and give you valuable tips about gear and bait to use, when the fish bite, and what to be careful of. After you have done that, you then need to decide on the species you intend to fish for. I don't have recent experience fishing Sydney rocks but, as I recall, the blackfish should be worth fishing for as we get closer to Christmas. This weed eating species is caught from low ledges, using a light to medium and long, flexible rod to fish under a float using sea cabbage as bait. You must have "cleats" on you shoes (or similar) to grip the wet rocks so you don't slip over. From the higher ledges there will also be pelagic fish, such as tailer, salmon, kingfish, tuna and bonito to catch. Use medium to heavy tackle to fish live fish or ganged pilchards under a float, or to cast metal lures to them. Pelagic species often bite best at first light, early in the morning. Finally, there's bottom fishing for species such as drummer, groper, jewfish and snapper (relatively rare but much prized), which require heavy tackle to sometimes cast big, heavy sinker/bait combinations long distances and to land fish from high ledges. A long handled gaff will also be necessary to land very big fish. As a general rule, rods should be at least 10 feet long, in some cases more than twelve feet long, to fish from the rocks successfully. I'm sure other Fishraiders can provide specific rod and reel recommendations. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, I recently bought a new boat (Quintrex 385 Explorer with Mercury 15hp electric start 4-stroke) for estuary and sheltered bay fishing. Haven't put it in the water yet, but I've been thinking a lot about my favorite fish, the humble flathead: hopefully, as the water warms they'll soon be around in droves. I'm well set up for soft plastic fishing, but the main reason I selected my boat and motor set-up is because I reckon flatties should be "suckers" for a deep diving hard-bodied lure lure trolled close to the bottom. Problem is, I haven't done much of that style of fishing. Anyone done much trolling aimed specifically at catching flathead? Any pointers about best time, tide, lures, rigs and so on would be appreciated. Regards, Bob

Hi landbased, The most important thing to appreciate with an Alvey sidecast reel is that, because you swivel the reel spool sideways to cast and then wind the line back on with it straight, then everytime you cast out and wind back in you put twist in the line. So potentially you can end up with heaps of twisted, tangly line on your reel. Fear not however, any problems can be avoided completely by ensuring you always have a swivel about half a metre to a metre above your terminal tackle (baited hook and sinker), so the twist can work itself out. To be most effective the swivel should be the smallest you can sensibly use with the breaking strain of the line. And, as with a threadline reel, it's important to have the correct amount of line on the reel: too much and you will get tangles, insufficient and you'll restrict your casts. It's possible, however, to cast light rigs much further with an Alvey than with a threadline due to the Alvey having a larger diameter spool . And line is much easier to control, as it falls naturally under your index finger; much better than having to chase it around a threadline reel spool. Love Alveys. Regards, Bob

Hi Dave, The outer rollers are set about as wide as they can go. I've also adjusted them, so most of the weight is now on the keel (when I picked up the boat it wasn't). I'll check the tow ball weight, but I don't think that'll be a problem. Thanks for your help. Regards, Bob

Hi Chris, Thanks for the advice. You've helped me a lot. Much appreciated. Regards, Bob

Hi Offtap1, Nice catch. They certainly go on light gear. If the kingy limit hadn't moved up to 65 cm at 3 September, would have been a keeper. Regards, Bob

Hi Chris, It's a multi-roller, one roller up the front of the trailer, three at the rear : a large fixed centre roller, and a smaller adjustable roller at each side. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, New boat, another potential problem. I recently upgraded my little Savage Pintail dinghy and 4 hp 2 stroke Mercury to a larger and heavier 385 Quintrex Explorer and 15 hp 4 stroke electric start Mercury. But I decided to retain my old Brooker trailer, as it's in very good nick. Problem is, the new boat's more than a foot longer than the old one. So with the trailer winch post moved forward as far as practical, so as not to risk damaging the towing vehicle, the boat sits on the rear rollers about a foot or so forward of the transom. A mate of mine tells me that to ensure the weight of a boat is properly supported, a boat should be positioned on a trailer so that the rear rollers are as near as possible to the transom. Other people I've spoken to about this tell me it's not that important, and not to worry, but leave things as they are. Who's right, who should I believe? I don't want to replace my trailer, so if there is a problem, what's the best solution? Is it possible to inexpensively modify my existing trailer so it better fits my new boat? Regards, Bob

Hi Danilo, Sounds like you're being sold a very slow action freshwater carp fishing rod, rather than a beach rod. And I'd avoid those non-fixed guides if I were you -- just another thing to go wrong on a tele rod. Still reckon you should check out the faster taper Silstar Powertip Traverse X range of tele beach rods or similar: much more rugged and suitable for what you have in mind. Match it to a medium (size 50 or 60) Okuma EPIX, or similar, spool with 12 lb or 15lb mono or 15 to 20 lb braid as you prefer, and you have a nice outfit. As the water warms up between now and Christmas beach fishing should improve. To avoid the chopper tailer, salmon, rays etc try something a little different. Forget about hefting 3 oz or more leads and whole pilchards. Instead, early morning and evening fish the sandy pockets between the reef at the ends of the beaches using as bait pieces of fish, beach worm, pippy or crab, with a small ball sinker (1/8 oz to 1/2 oz) right on top of a size 2 to 2/0 suicide or beak style hook. This rig allows the bait to move around naturally and rarely snags, but is cheap to replace if it does. Make sure the point and barb of the hook remain well exposed. The bream you catch are sure to surprise. Regards, Bob

Hi Heath, Thanks for all the tips. I've pretty well worked out a system for my boat. It'll be an adaptation of your mate's system: my boat's a little shorter and has less free-board, but I should be able accommodate two rods on either side -- unlikely to need more than four rods anyway. I'm very interested in where your mate sourced the hardware, particularly the stern end enclosed rod bracket, which appears to be made of foam material. Perhaps you might ask him and then let me know by PM? Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, Thanks for the ideas. Prefer horizontal to vertical storage, as it keeps the rods completely out of the way. I really like your mate's set-up Heath. Very secure, due to the three bracket attachment, the final one fully enclosing the rods. And foam sheeting glued to the hull prevents reel contact and damage. Clever. Regards, Bob

Hi Danilo, Glad your making some progress in your rod and reel search. Remember, like many things in life, in fishing less can be more. Using the lightest line and least weight that conditions will allow usually results in more and better fish being caught. Don't be concerned by tip stiffness-- a stiffer tip actually aids in bite detection. Think about it. And a Daiwa rod is unlikely to break during normal fishing. Most rod breakages are due to misuse caused by carelessness or stupidity. Jarvis Walker are one of Australia's largest and oldest tackle importers and distributers. They import the highly regarded Penn range of rods and reels as well as their own brands. Just ensure the line and casting weight ratings (usually indicated on modern rods) are suitable for the fishing tasks and the rod balances well with the reel. As for how much to pay, keep things in perspective. If you like the rod and reel outfit and you enjoy fishing with it, then if you properly care for it (that is, you're a fine tackle user, rather than an abuser) it will serve you well for many years, possibly for the rest of your life. So how much money will you spend on petrol and other car costs getting to fishing spots; on accommodation or camping, food, beer or soft drink when you get there; and on bait, sinkers, fishing line and other items during that period? The most noteworthy thing about fishing tackle in Australia these days compared to 20, 30 or more years ago is that, due to modern manufacturing methods and cheap Asian labour costs, it is so cheap relative to the cost of living and provides excellent value. If you like the outfit, buy it. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, Picked up my new tinny and motor from the dealer Thursday: Quintrex 385 Explorer and 15 hp Mercury 4 stroke with electric start. Now the hard part begins -- how best to fit all the gear in. Shouldn't be too difficult, as the new boat's more than a foot longer and must be almost twice as wide as my old Savage car-topper. But what's the best way to store rods when underway? I used to just just lay them fore and aft across the thwarts of my car topper. The new Quintrex doesn't have a middle seat (one of the reasons I selected it), but there's a considerable distance between the front seat/casting platform and the rear tiller seat, and I'd prefer some way of securing the rods so they don't get tossed around, stood on and damaged when underway. Any ideas? What's the best way to keep rods out of harms way in a boat when underway? Regards, Bob

Hi Danilo, It's important you decide what you will mostly be using the outfit for: species, fishing location, angling method ... "General purpose" outfits really don't exist, except as a tackle marketing concept. Decide exactly what you need, then buy that. I agree with Roberta that if you intend to "heft" more than three ounces, then most telescopic rods probably won't stand-up to it. That's really the domain of the one-piece beach rod, or very well built multi-piece rod. Of course, you really need to ask whether it's better to anchor the bait on the bottom in the first place. IMHO, if conditions permit, far better that the bait drift around naturally. Fishing unweighted or lightly weighted baits is best done with a non-geared Alvey. Alvey reels are less popular now, but in the 60s and 70s, huge hauls of tailer and other species were made using Alvey reels to fish unweighted baits. Similarly, if you intend to winch fish up cliffs, forget about threadline reels, or any geared reel for that matter. Only the larger Alvey reels are up to that job. And IMHO overhead reels (multipliers) are much better than threadline reels for casting heavy lures and sinker/bait combinations, provided you have the necessary skill. Most people don't -- hence the popularity of the threadline reel. The truth of the matter is that threadline reels do most jobs required, but few very well. As you can no doubt tell, I'm not a fan of threadline reels, other than for very light lure and bait fishing. Although I have to confess to owning several, both currently and in the past. Even landed several large kingfish on a Mitchell 499 many, many years ago, before I switched to a Seascape for high speed spinning. The last threadline I bought was an Okuma EPIX EFS 60 -- a nice well-built reel, with very fast retrieve, and good value, as it comes with a spare metal spool. Perfect for beach casting lures to 1 oz -- what I use it for -- but not really suitable for heavy beach or rock fishing tasks. So my suggestion is to think hard about the uses to which you will put the rod and reel -- and recognize that there will always have to be trade-off and compromise. Ask yourself whether you really need to cast weights heavier than 3 ozs -- or if you might have more success and fishing pleasure by casting less weight. You might then find that the Silstar telescopic beach rod I recommended, if matched to an Okuma EPIX EFS reel, of an appropriate size for the mono or braid line you will be using, will actually cover most of your fishing needs. Regards, Bob

Hi Danilo, Silstar make a good range of budget priced telescopic rods.The beach models are in the 10' to 12' range and suitable to most medium beach fishing tasks. IMHO not as good as a one or two piece rod -- but for occasional fishing, when transport is a problem, still a good way to go. The 10' model I've got is graphite composite mesh with a solid glass tip. It casts lures and bait/ sinker combinations to 3 ozs very well. There are heaps of threadline reels available in your price range. For beach fishing using mono line to 8 kg I'd go for a 6000 size. You could use a smaller reel if you decide to use braid. If you're only going to fish occasionally, you don't need an expensive model. But if you plan to spin metal lures, look for a reel with a gear ratio of at least 6 to 1. Basic models are offered by Okuma, Silstar, Daiwa, Shimano, Penn, Shakespeare and others. Any of these might suit. It's really a matter of which feels best. Just make sure the reel matches up to, and feels good on, the rod you choose to use. Regards, Bob

Hi Luringbream, The ABU 7000 is a classic. The ABU Ambassadeur reels were introduced more than 50 years ago -- that is, the design is older than most of the members of this site -- and they are still being made and sold. That tells you something. During that time they've been used for everything from tournament casting to heavy rock, beach and boat fishing. There's a nice review of the 7000 model here on this pommie website: http://www.worldseafishing.com/reviews/abu_7000.shtml Remarkably light and robust, with excellent ergonomic design, spool tolerance, and finish, the 7000 model is true value. In recent years, the price has actually fallen significantly in real terms, which suggests that manufacturing and/or assembly is probably no longer done in Sweden. Which may have affected quality -- my only reservation. I've had my Swedish made 7000 for more than 20 years and it's still in mint condition. As with all fishing tackle used around salt water, make sure you lightly spray it with fresh water and wipe off to remove salt spray before putting away after each use. My biggest capture using an ABU 7000 and 30lb mono line is an 83lb Nile perch (like a giant barramundi) that I caught in Lake Nasser, Egypt. The 7000 handled it with ease. Never sell an ABU 7000. Only buy more. Regards, Bob

Hi Guys, Another thing to think about is whether you need to spool-up using only your preferred line. After-all, there's nothing to say you can't spool up using two types of line. I'm a firm believer in "top-shotting": using only about a 100 metres or so of better line (say Tortue, Schneider, Penn... etc) as the top "working line, and using cheaper bulk line under it as reserve line, which unless we hook a whopper -- and don't we all hope for that -- is unlikely to see the light-of-day. When the working line becomes worn, damaged and therefore untrustworthy, it's simply a matter of replacing it and top-shotting again with more better line. Much cheaper and more sensible than spooling up completely with expensive line and replacing the lot. Top-shotting also works well with expensive braid and gel-spun line: spool up with inexpensive bulk mono and then top -shot with 100 metres or so of braid or gel-spun on top which becomes the working line. Much cheaper than spooling completely with braid or gel-spun. Or if you're using mono and your reel has limited capacity, top-shop with your preferred mono, after first winding on 100 metres or so of much smaller diameter for breaking strain gel-spun or braid. Just a few thoughts Regards, Bob

Hi Mark84, Avoid fine diameter soft, pliable, co-polymers: they damage and then break too easily. Old standbys are Maxima or Schneider: stiffer, but large diameter for the breaking strain, so can stand up to the inevitable rock fishing nicks and abraisions without weakening much. If you want to save a few dollars, look at some of the cheaper bulk lines. Check the diameter to breaking strain first -- go for large diameter relative to the breaking strain. I bought some Penn bulk line recently which is excellent. Good news is you can buy a kilometre or more of bulk line for the price of a small spool of "premium" line. Regards, Bob

Hi Bobfish, Excellent advice from BM. Always remember, fly fishing started in freshwater to fish imitations of small insects eaten by trout. As BM points out, that's where it works best and is most enjoyable, particularly when fishing the dry fly. While the technique has been adapted to the successful catching of all manner of fish in both fresh and saltwater, up to and including billfish, it's still best as a short range, sight-fishing proposition. Fishing "blind" and deep, on the off chance that a fish will swim by and try to eat your fly, is hard work and soon becomes tedious. Fishing far-off and deep on a purely speculative basis is always best done with bait or lures (HB or softies) IMHO. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, The plot thickens. Today's Sydney Telegraph (page 2) reports the Federal Fisheries Minister's declaration that there will never (ever?) be a tax on fishing tackle. But the report also quotes the CEO of EcoFish as stating nothing has yet been decided. Apparently, what's being considered is not a tax but a "levy". Presumably it will be well after the Federal election before any decision is finally made. Of course, if a new fishing tackle tax (whoops, sorry levy) is introduced, it will have to be collected and administered by Australian tackle retailers or importers/wholesalers. And Australian fishing tackle consumers can buy from anywhere in the world. So it will always be up to us whether we choose to pay it. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, Some clarification: http://www.news.com.au/story/0,23599,22293...?from=public_js Not surprising: a Federal election has to be held before the end of the year. Regards, Bob

Pheew, Great post. I have too many to count -- accumulated over more than forty years. Thought I had a problem. What a relief to know I'm not alone.