kenmare

Hi guys, Same on the Central Coast. Surfers have been having a bad time. There's millions of dried out blue bottles washed up on the beaches at the high tide mark. Still plenty of fish around though. Pity the weather doesn't settle down a bit, so we can get at 'em. Regards, Bob

Hi Mick, So, what's the secret? Is it really all to do with the way you hold your mouth? Went beach worming myself on Monday with a mate from the fishing club. He'd recently done a course conducted by a "guru" through a local evening college and was pretty fired-up. Never tried worming myself, so my role was to just observe and learn, and assist with the detecting of the little buggers. All went according to plan at first: reasonable day, arrived two hours before the bottom of a very low tide, had all the necessary equipment, plenty of worms located ... But either the worms were too fast, or John was too slow (most likely) because, when the tide turned and started to push up the beach, we still didn't have any. I'm sure there's plenty of Fishraiders would also appreciate a few tips on how to successfully catch the elusive beach worm. How do you place your hand each side of the head, when a worm's located? When, where and how do you grasp the worm? How do you avoid the worm gripping the sand to avoid being extracted? Why do you reckon you caught some this time, when on other occasions you hadn't been very successful? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, I recently picked up packets of 2" and 3' Gulp minnow grubs that were on special for $2 a pack (figured 'not much to lose). They're a bright red colour. Thought they might be good blood worm imitations. Anyone successfully used the red Gulp minnow grubs? I've also notice Gulp softies dry-out when in the tackle box (unless you leave them in the press seal packet). Does this affect how they fish? Regards, Bob

Hi Voodoo, Crazyfisherdood is spot-on: flathead are one of the easiest fish to catch on lures. Size, colour, type -- doesn't seem to matter that much. If it swims nearby, and they're hunting for food, they'll try to eat it. Far more important IMHO is the state of the tide. I prefer a run out tide. As I'm sure everybody knows, the flattie is mostly an ambush hunter. It lies camoflaged on the bottom waiting for poddy mullet, small whiting, prawns, nippers etc to move within a range and then, at lightning speed, springs from the bottom to engulf them. It's all over in the blink of an eye. I use this fact to advantage when targetting flatties. When the run-out tide's high, I fish from my boat around the mangrove roots, weed beds and shallow yabbie flats, where the flatties will be hunting. As the tide falls, I concentrate on the run-off channels and holes, figuring the flatties will then be there, waiting for small fish, prawns etc, as they're forced off the flats by the falling tide. Like most predatory fish, flatties hunt most actively at first and last light. So if you plan your outings to co-incide with a run-out tide at early morning or late afternoon into evening you'll probably get a few. Last half of the run-out is probably best if you're land based. There's nothing wrong with being a "tackle rat" -- most of us are to some degree -- but you'll catch more fish if you understand how fish behave. Regards, Bob

Hi WD, Good to read you're successful with your SP outfit. The rod, reel, DVD package was a great deal. How long ago did you buy it and where? Might be interested in investing $65 myself. Which Berkley gulp and power baits have you found work best? I agree with you about product promotion. The interests of the product promotor should be disclosed (which they inevitably are to create brand awareness) and there really shouldn't be "calls to action" within the presentation itself. Like you, I find a presenter telling me I should buy a particular product a turn-off, and an annoying distraction. Particularly if I've paid money to learn about fishing techniques. Regards, Bob

Hi Sharky, How'd you go last night on the jewies? Thanks for your tips about selecting jig heads. So, you really need to see what works best in the conditions you find on the day? Makes sense to select the hook size first and then find the best weight. Do you reckon the style of jig head matters? I've 3/8 oz and 1/2 oz ball head jigs (hooks slightly smaller than 5/0), 1/2 oz shad heads and 5/8 oz bullet heads (both around 4/0 -- 5/0). In your experience, what style of jig head works best for jew? The ball heads are painted fluero green, the shads and bullets are both unpainted. Do you reckon jig head colour makes any difference? Regards, Bob The ball

Hi guys, Like WD, I'm trying to crack the code for jewies on SPs. There's some useful information here about shads and other tails. I've just bought a heap of 6" Manns pearl shads, and also large Squidgie fish and 4" Berkley power minnows in chartreuse. Have I done the right thing? I reckon these tails might do the job, but what jig heads would be best to use with them? I've heads from 3/8 oz to 1 1/2 oz that might work. Used a 1 oz scrounger the other night, but found it ran very deep, and eventually I hung it up and lost it on a reef. What size, weight and style of head do you guys use in the estuary? What's the best head to use fishing the beach into the night? Is it better to fish a light head, or a heavy one which keeps the softie near the bottom? Regards, Bob

Hi Shane, Yes, that's what I mean by subtle: Halco and other product isn't blatantly pushed in every other sentence within the presentation. And yes, as I bought the Squidgy package (and therefore effectively received that DVD at little or no cost) I have little cause for complaint. If others are prepared to buy the DVD as a stand alone for $24.95, well, then it's for them to judge whether they've received adequate value. Regards, Bob

Hi Shane, I agree it's reasonable for a video sponsor to promote product, if a video comes free with a fishing mag. Halco recently did this with an excellent video on using hardbodies to catch bream, set in southern WA. But even then the promotion was very subtlely done, and the focus was always on the fishing techniques. But to expect people to part with $24.95 for a blatant product flog? Regards, Bob

Hi Shane, I took your advice and acquired the Squidgy Secrets Parts 1 and 2 DVD video -- both parts are on the one CD. It's a blatant product flog for the Squidgy brand products. That having been said, Part 1: The Basics is well worth looking at: it contains segments on catching flathead, bream and estuary perch (among the most fished-for species in our part of the world), and also an interesting segment on using softies to catch snapper. The main secrets of fishing soft plastics are to always let a weighted softy sink all the way to the bottom before retrieving in a series of lifts, and to use the lightest jig head possible, so the tail swims as it both rises and falls during the retrieve. It's well worth looking at the video just to see how this is done. Part2: Beyond the Basics covers fishing for tropical Northern Australian species and Queensland impoundment bass. I found this part of little interest. IMHO it's poorly put together compared to the first part of the video, and the presenters seem even more intent on promoting their extended product range. Both parts might now be a little dated: I didn't notice any reference to "stick baits" which are now popular. The DVD was on sale in one local store for $24.95, but my scrooge tendencies got the better of me, so I checked-out my favourite tackle store on the Central Coast, Amart at Erina. They have the DVD packaged-up with a large "worm-proof" tackle box (has adjustable compartments), a dozen very small Squidgy #6 ball head jigs suitable for bream, a packet of small Squidgy grubs and a packet of small Squidgy fish tails (both in a blood wormy colour) for $19.95. As the retail value of the box, jigs and tails must be around $20, you effectively get the DVD for free. Now that's my kind of deal. It does pay to shop around Fishraiders. Looking forward to meeting everyone at the Entrance social day. Regards, Bob

Hi Joe, Many people hate clips, but I use them when bass fishing if I believe I'll be changing lures a lot. If you decide to use clips, it's important to choose the correct size for the job: too big and heavy -- too obvious to the fish; too small and light -- might fail under pressure of good fish. I always buy good quality, as they're still very cheap, and favour the duolock type. You need to ensure the clips are alway fastened properly after each lure change. I've never had one fail on me. If anything's going to let go when using hard body lures it'll most likely be a split ring. For most other lure fishing I use a mono leader and fish braid, so I use loop knots. I figure that after many lure changes if the leader becomes too short I can replace it. For bass size lures, clips don't seem to affect how they work. Might be a problem with ultra light lures used for bream or trout though. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Not sure if replying to yourself is within the rules of this board (or even normal and healthy for that matter). But I've just chanced upon a book which answers most of the questions I posed -- and also provides answers to others I probably haven't yet thought to asked myself or others. The book is On Soft Plastics and How to Use them By Steve Starling and Kai Busch, who I'm sure need little introduction to most fishos who've been bitten by the soft plastics bug. A recent Australian Fishing Network publication, written by two of the most experienced and well-known exponents of softies, it covers pretty much all you need to know about the recent soft plastic lure phenomenon. The early history of soft plastics in Australia, the different types, how to rig them, and the tackle to use -- it's all there. But chapters 6 and 7 are the ones that make the book a stand-out "must buy" for me. Chapter 6 is about presenting soft plastics, and Chapter 7 takes the ideas further and applies them to popular Australian fish: flathead, bream, estuary perch, jewies, snapper, pelagics .... The detailed, specific information in those two chapers alone justify the purchase price. At $29.95 the book is reasonably priced for a 156 page book, well written and illustrated with excellent colour photos. It's justified its place on my book shelf. Others trying to improve their catch rate with softies might also find much to interest them. Regards, bob .

Hi guys, I've just purchased a magazine in my local newsagent that will probably interest many soft plastic enthusiasts. It's "Tournament Anglers Guide 06". As well as listing all the major bream and bass fishing tounaments for the coming year, it has some excellent articles on how best to use SPs when targeting bream in saltwater and bass in freshwater impoundments. The articles feature top anglers from the recent Australian Fishing Championship TV series. Good value at $9.95, provided you can resist the temptation to stock-up on the very expensive toys advertised between the covers. There's also value to be had when buying SPs. Amart at Erina on the Central Coast have been selling packets of Berkley and Manns at 5 for $10. I bought a good supply of 3' and 4' Berkley Powerbait bass minnow and 2" and 3" Gulp minnow grubs. For $2 a packet, when bass minnow normally sell for $8.95 and Gulp minnow grubs for $9.50, this has to be excellent value? Regards, Bob

Hi Guys, Of course, there's really no such thing as a freak wave. The sea conditions are always just as they are. Whilst I'm no longer doing as much rock hopping as I did in the past, I started over forty years ago, and I'm still around. Although I had a couple of interesting moments in my early days when my life flashed before my eyes. I've noticed many fishos just race on to the ledges and start fishing. In my humble opinion this is pretty dumb. Much better to wait and observe the sea conditions from a high vantage point for ten minutes or more -- it's amazing how often "freak waves" are up to ten minutes apart. And also to know know the state of the tide: a ledge that appears splashy but safe can often became covered by green water as the tide rises. If you decide to fish, there really is safety in numbers. Many sets of eyes mean someone is likely to spot a wave creaping up on you and shout the warning call "water". You're most vulnerable when pre-occupied landing fish or baiting-up. It's much better not being bowled over and washed in than worrying about being rescued or rescuing someone else -- many would be rescuers end up drowning themselves. Something to think about before you take the plunge. Regards, Bob

Hi Shane, Thanks for referring me to the articles. As you point out, no need to re-invent the wheel with this. I'll read the articles, and see how I go. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, I caught my first fish on soft plastic over 20 years ago: a flathead on a Mister Twister. Haven't used plastics much since then but, after reading posts on this board, I've decided to give them another go. Back in my Twister days, fishing them for flathead was simple. They were fished closed to the bottom with a slow jigging action. The hardest part was choosing between pink or green. But there's a heap of tail and head styles to choose from now. And a wide range of species targetted: bream, jewfish, trevally, snapper... It's pretty confusing. I agree that, as in most forms of fishing, the hardest part's working out how to put a bait or lure in front of a hungry fish. But what's most important, the: jig head -- size, colour (does it matter?); tail-- type, length, scent, match to type and weight of head; or way the fisho presents the soft plastic to the fish and imparts action to entice the fish to eat it? How do you target particular species? Regards, Bob

By my calculations I've been fishing on and off for more than 50 years. And I still can't say with certainty why some days I catch fish and some days I don't. Better just keep at it I guess.

Hi Allan, Yes, I guess the term "tinny" means different types of boats to different people. My 11' dingy's powered by a 4 hp Mercury, and can manage 12 kph with one on board (significantly less with two). So I can see how you would need to fix the transducer to the transom of your boat differently. Regards, Bob

Hi Allan, I'm not sure why you believe suction mounts are dangerous. I've used mine for years: first on my porta boat (where it was necessary to set-up and remove the sounder gear each time the boat was used) and more recently on my tinny. I secure the transducer with a length of strong cord, in case it comes off the transom; but that's rarely happened, even in difficult conditions, and when the transducer has come off it just trails in the water behind the boat. And it's a breeze to strip the sounder gear from the boat if you need to have some leaks welded (yes, I bought a cheapie second-hand tinny). To each their own, but for a cheap, simple solution, suction-cups work. No drilling holes in your boat or welding involved. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, I've a sounder on my 11' tinnie and it works great. My sounder is just a basic Eagle model that I originally set up on a 15' canoe, and then used on my Porta boat. I mount the transducer to the transom of my tinnie using a cheap Eagle rubber suction cup accessory -- it works fine, holds fast if you push it on firmly. The display is mounted up the front of the boat, to the side on the front seat. I made a wooden base, then used counter sunk bolts to fix the display bracket to the base. To secure the base to the seat I just used adhesive backed velpro (it's cheaper if you buy at Spotlight). Cheap and simple. Regards, Bob

Hi Gutsy, Don't get depressed. I've been across to NZ fishing many times, and always caught good fish. Just remember a few simple facts about Kiwis: Most of them are outdoor and fishing enthusiasts, and very friendly and generous when they get to know you. My suggestion: research good areas to fish (which might have other attractions to interest the wife, if she's a non-fisher), drive into town in your hire car, enquire at the local hotel about accommodation -- or stay at an economical B & B if pub not so good, stroll into the hotel bar and start chatting to the locals about where would be a good place to fish, mention you're a visiting Aussie but really barrack for the All Blacks. There's a good chance that not only will they give you complete instructions on where and how to fish, and access to water on private property, a local may even take you fishing to show you how to do it. Go for it! Regards, Bob

Thanks Dave. No need to be concerned about still having a selection of bellbrooks. So did I, until I gave them away to a lure collecting mate a couple of months ago. But I've still got my floppys, and a jitterbug and deep 6 -- so everything's still OK in the world. Regards, Bob

Hi Granpop, I've got a swag of stumpjumpers, in the full range of sizes. I picked them up years ago in a sale, but they've yet to go for a swim -- I tend to use one of the many other lures in my lure box. You're obviously a stumpjumper fan. Why do you like them, and recommend them in preference to the hundreds (thousands?) of other hard-bodied lures available? Regards, Bob

Hi Dzee, Welcome to the world of swoffing (in-talk for saltwater fly fishing). I'll try to answer your questions, and assume you're going to target the most popular soft plastic candidates -- bream and flathead: 1. You don't have to spend $1000 to set yourself up, but you certainly can if you want to. There are now many acceptable rods, made in the Far East, available for less than $200. A suitable reel and line can purchased for even less. Some people will pay much more than that, for one of the following reasons: to some degree, price does indicate quality; they must have the best; they have plenty of money and need retail therapy. Bit like some people needing a BMW, while others get by nicely with a Holden or Ford? 2. Fly fishing is quite different to fishing using conventional tackle, such as spin and baitcaster outfits used to fish soft plastics. In flyfishing it's the line that provides the weight for the cast -- the fly just comes along for the ride. The advantage of this is it's possible to cast very small and light flies gently, so as not to disturb feeding fish. The disadvantage is you've got to spend some time and effort learning how to cast a fly line. Some people enjoy fly casting, others find it all too hard and give it away. Fly fishing works best when casting relatively short distances to fish that can be seen feeding (sight fishing) or to identified fish-holding structures: submerged logs, rock bars, weed beds, drop-offs etc. In my experience, most people find catching fish on fly more difficult than catching them on lures (including SPs). But there's the challenge -- and good reason to keep your investment in fly fishing tackle modest until you decide if it's for you. 3. Your spot-on in saying the fly is just another tool in the box. There will be times,in both salt and fresh water, when a fly fisher will outfish the lure fishers -- such as when fish are feeding exclusively on small baitfish, which can only be effectively imitated by a fly . But when the fish can't be seen, or it's necessary to cast further than most fly fishers can manage, or the fish are holding in water more than a metre or two deep, lure fishing is almost always more effective (and also far less like hard work). Some final suggestions. If you buy cheaper fly reels, they'll often be made of painted, pressed aluminium and intended for use in freshwater -- and will soon badly corrode when used in the salt. Instead, look around and buy a cheap graphite fly reel. It'll still do the job on flathead, bream etc, but will withstand exposure to salt water. I've a Mitchell 7150 which cost around $50 and works a treat. For the size of fly you'll be casting a 7 or 8 weight, floating, weight-forward line should be about right to start. Later, you might want to invest in an intermediate or sinking line.

Hi Mick, Thanks for the valuable tip: as I suspected, you've got to be smart, as well as persistent. Regards, Bob Hi Chris, Thanks for setting me right. You've obviously looked into this and/or done some serious distance casting yourself. Do you know of any reasonably priced beach casting rods or blanks that would be more suitable than the MT8132 for pelting big bait/heavy sinker combinations out wide? Might have landbased snapper applications as well as when fishing for jew. Regards, Bob