kenmare

Hi namesay, As I recall, this thread started off with a request for suggestions of reels for all round river and beach fishing, not about reels for pulling kings 2 to 4 times a week. But putting that aside for the moment, many moons ago, I and a few mates used to regularly tangle with kings and tuna, up to super jumbo size, down the South Coast around the Jervis Bay, both from the rocks and from boats. IMHO the ONLY reels that can be relied upon to stand up to the demands of this type of fishing over any length of time are strongly built overheads. For one simple reason: this type of reel is built for the task. Whilst I landed some reasonable sized kings on a big Mitchell 499 threadline I owned at the time but subsequently sold, IMHO few threadline reels of ANY brand are designed for sustained fights with very large pelagic fish, capable of repeatedly making long powerful runs. My regular fishing mate, who at the time was close to a living legend for capturing very large fish from both the rocks and from boats, used to disparagingly refer to threadlines as "black fellas' reels." OK, that's racist, but back in those days it wasn't as necessary to be politically correct. What he meant, of course, was that threadlines, as a type of reel design, just weren't really up to the task. But for fishing unweighted baits of tuna chunks or whole sea gar down a burley trail over a reef for snapper, now that was a completely different story. For that a threadline was alway the reel of choice. Perhaps it's necessary to select the right TYPE of reel for a particular type of fishing task if it is to perform well -- that's why we have so many different types and sizes of fishing reel: overheads, threadlines, sidecasts, centrepins, closed face and so on? So it's possible to select a reel suitable to the fishing task? Major manufacturers produce reels of different types, sizes and quality in their range. Could it be that the brand of reel selected is not really as important as it might first appear, other than for any preference you might have for the design features and feel of a particular reel, or a brand's after-sale warranty and service support? Regards, Bob

Hi Craig, Your mate probably has a couple of collector items there! Slazenger made and sold some of the earliest hollow fibreglass rods available on the Australian market in the early 1960s. Up until then, most anglers used solid fibreglass, rangoon cane and split cane rods. I kid you not! The Australian made Slazenger rods are, however, unlikely to compare well to even the cheapest fibreglass rods you can buy today. Due to the state of technology at that time, they would be very heavy and slow actioned. So I doubt whether it's worth your mate spending money to have them done-up. Your mate might be better off advertising them on E-bay. There might just be a collector in Australia, or somewhere elsewhere in the World, who has been searching for such items to add to his tackle collection. Regards, Bob

Hi Stewy, Your comments are spot on. I've lost count of the number of times stories about "tackle failure" turn out to really be angler failure, to use the appropriate tackle for the task, or more commonly, due to straight out tackle neglect or abuse. Rods caught in car doors, stood on or sat on, or subject to "testing" and snapped in the process; reels left between trips coated in salt spray, not lubricated or dropped onto concrete launching ramps -- it's enough to bring a tear to your eye. It only takes a few moments to carefully store rods and reels at home, when being transported, or on the boat, even less time to remove salt from gear with a light freshwater spray from hose or shower after each trip, and only a few moments more to lightly spray reels with WD40 and occasionally oil bearings and other moving parts. Yet this is really the key to keeping your gear working well trip after trip and avoiding tackle failure on that "fish of a lifetime." Regards, Bob

Hi guys, At the risk of upsetting some of you, I have to say most modern reels represent extremely good value for money. But IMHO many of the top-of-the-line offerings are actually over-engineered. Does your reel really need ten ball bearings? OK, why and where are they located? Far more important than running out and buying the latest, whiz-bang leading brand offering, incorporating "the latest technology", is to stop and ask a few simple questions: # What type of fishing will I use this reel for -- how much wear and tear will there be on drag, gears and bearings? # Do I fish aggressively - using maximum drag, or casting heavy sinkers or lures - so the reel will be under maximum pressure, or do I use light terminal tackle and finesse to subdue fish, taking plenty of time and using light drag? # How often will I fish with the reel -- a couple of times a year, when family commitments permit, or at least once every week, no matter what the weather? # Do I look after my tackle, and lubricate and service it regularly? Even the best quality tackle will soon corrode and fall apart if it is subject to rough use around salt water and not well maintained. After asking these questions, you may find that you don't really need a top-of-the-line reel: a far less expensive reel will do the job admirably. It's also worth remembering that even reels that "break" can often be cheaply repaired by the manufacturer, or by your local tackle shop. I own several dozen reels, some over forty years old, that I've use for almost all types of fishing, in both fresh and salt water. They range from cheap Alvey bakelite sidecasts to Penn and Shimano overheads that are built as tough as a country out-house. I have a special fondness for early ABU baitcasters and Mitchell threadlines, classics in their day. They're still often used, and still perform well at the job for which they're intended. Over recent years I've bought several Okuma reels: an Integrity fly reel, an Endurance EDB30 baitfeeder, and an EPIX EFS60. All were purchased for an identified purpose and, for me at least, perform well and represent good value for money. I'm very satisfied. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, After using rangefinder and SLR film cameras by Kodak, Minolta, Olympus and Pentax over many years, I finally decided to test the digital waters about nine months ago when I purchased a Pentax Optio 60 compact digital. It's an impressive little camera. Here's what I like about it: # Compact -- fits in my shirt pocket, so it's always to hand. # High resolution: 6.0 megapixels. # Both optical viewfinder and LCD display: it's a real camera; I much prefer looking through a viewfinder than trying to aim the camera at arms length using the LCD display. # Uses readily available AA batteries -- I use rechargeable NI-MH batteries but Alkaline batteries can also be used. # Uses SD memory cards: now the most widely used memory card. # 3X optical zoom (has digital zoom, but I've turned that off). # Also takes video clips with sound. # Bargain price: cost $280, plus about $60 for 500 meg card, plus about $60 for four batteries and charger. # Auto everything, with complete manual over-ride: I leave everything on auto, takes better pics than I do. I'll probably buy a Pentax digital SLR early next year, when the prices have fallen further, as I'll then be able to use my Pentax film SLR lenses and flash unit on the digital body. Regards, Bob

Hi Saqa, I've had a 12 foot American made Portaboat for more than ten years. I bought it second hand, along with a 4 hp Mercury two stroke. Wouldn't part with it for quids -- brilliant bit of gear. I mostly use it for bass fishing, although it's also good for fishing freshwater impoundments and sheltered coastal estuaries. It's light, easily stored, transportable, stable, virtually indestructible, and goes well with either the Mercury two-stroke or my transom mount 28 lb thrust Evinrude electric motor. I even mount my Eagle sounder on it, using a suction cup transducer mounting. IMHO a portable boat is far superior to either a kayak or canoe for fishing (I've owned both), as you can move around the boat and even stand up to cast -- once you get used to the flexing floor. The flexible hull actually makes for a very smooth ride in a chop, much smoother than a tinny. The only downside to a portable boat is the time necessary to set it up, and take it apart after you've finished your fishing. Not really a problem if you can set it up and then fish out of it for several days in a row. But a bit of a pain for just a couple of hours evening fishing, if you're tired and then have to take it a apart in the dark. I solved this problem by buying a light, cheap, second hand 11'6'' car topper tinny on a trailer for fishing the local estuary into the night. I use the same two stroke, electric and sounder on this boat when fishing locally. But the Portaboat is still my first choice when travelling away from home to bass rivers or lakes. Regards, Bob

Hi Corinne, It's a bit difficult to generalise about charters: there are good and bad operators (like in most other things), So check it out well before spending your $160. Ask the operator for referals to satisfied clients or ask around the tackle shops and at fishing clubs. I'm not really a fan of charters, but I've been on a few. Some were excellent. But some were shockers, like the one I went on when holidaying in up at Harvey Bay many years ago. As soon as the boat stopped and was at anchor, the skipper and his deckie left everyone to themselves and started fishing. To make matters worse, they were the only ones to catch fish! If you can get yourself on a good charter, they are a great way to catch some nice fish. By a good charter I mean: a reasonable size boat and a relatively small number of anglers (ideally, eight or less, otherwise line tangling can be a problem), and a knowledgeable and helpful skipper and crew, who won't fish but will help with baiting hooks and removing fish from paying guests' lines. I went on a couple of beaut charters near home a couple of years ago. Fishing tackle was supplied (if needed), as was bait. The skipper was a professional fisherman during the week and used to take out small groups of fishos at weekends. He knew where all the reefs were and on which one's the fish were biting. We didn't put lines in the water until he'd located fish using his GPS and sounder. Everyone caught as many nice fish as they could possibly use in a couple of hours of morning fishing. Importantly, unless the weather was good, the charter was called off and a full refund made. Beware charter operators who go out in bad weather, but then stay in close, fishing overfished sheltered reefs -- everyone will be sick for no fish. A good charter is a great way to catch fish and well worth the price. It's not unheard of for some fishos to sell their boat, if they only use it a couple of times a year, and use charters instead -- there's no large outlay on boat, or running costs and maintenance. You don't have to launch, retrieve and clean the boat, or worry about obtaining bait or locating fish. On the charters I went on, the skipper and crew even helped you clean your fish! When you go on your charter, do yourself a favour and avoid the dreaded seasickness, so you'll enjoy your fishing. Even a gentle roll can turn some people green. Many people take motion sickness tablets, but I prefer ginger tablets (obtainable from chemists) because they don't make you drowsy, as most motion sickness tablets do. Hope you have a great charter and catch heaps of fish. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Thanks for the tips. I'll check-out the local fishing/camping/barbecue stores for saw dust. Hickory sounds good. Can keep fishing longer, and catch more tailor off the beach now -- normally only catch one or two an outing to eat fresh. Might try smoking salmon too. Been trying to find a use for them, other than as burley. Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Dropped in to a local discount sporting good shop this afternoon and, on impulse, purchased a fish smoker. Tried smoked trout once, and it was delicious. And I've heard that tailer and other saltwater fish are pretty good smoked too. Always planned to try my hand at smoking fish. With the beach tailer season already upon us, I figured that at $24.95 for an Aussie designed and Chinese made all metal, metho fueled, two-rack smoker, there wasn't too much at stake. Problem is, the store couldn't supply sawdust -- a critical ingredient for fish smoking. Anyone know where's the best place to obtain the correct sawdust for smoking fish? Are there "secret ingredients" or special ways of going about fish smoking that will ensure the end product is mouth watering and not fit for the rubbish bin? Regards, Bob

Hi Guys, Message received and understood. I took out comprehensive boat insurance on Wednesday; includes $10,000,000 third party liability cover. Thanks for the advice. Regards, Bob

Hi ianoc69, Congratulations! And happy birthday. Your success story is sure to inspire the rest of us SP fanatics, who haven't yet landed a jew, to keep plugging a way. Appreciate the specific technical detail of your capture -- very useful. Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, I was looking through some old magazines yesterday, and I saw an article about the Webster Manta Ray aluminium boat. It's a catameran, with a unique hull design. I then found an article on the web which described favourably the 3.9 metre model. Apparently, they're extremely stable and very well set-up for fishing, and they provide a very smooth ride and sound performance with smaller outboards around 15 hp. Although, according to the article, they're a bit expensive and require a custom trailer. So might not hold value too well when it's time to sell? Has anyone owned or looked at the Webster Manta Ray? Any opinions? Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, How important is boat insurance? I haven't insured my little tinny on trailer outfit that I bought second hand. Even with the 15 year old sounder and transom mounted electric motor, the whole lot would cost less than $2000 to replace -- although it's value to me is far greater. With a larger, more expensive outfit, there's more to lose. But how frequently do boat owners claim on their insurance? What risks are covered by most insurance policies? What's not? The risk of collision must be less than for vehicles on the road, and it you watch the weather and avoid disaster there, why do you need insurance cover? Are most boaties insured or uninsured? Regards, Bob

Hi Fishraiders, How much does it cost to have a new outboard two-stroke of 20 hp to 30 hp serviced, as required by the manufacturer, in the first year? In the second and subsequent years? Is it true that if you don't have the motor serviced as required, this voids your warranty? Regards, Bob

Hi Flattieman, Picked up the latest Quintrex catalogue (March - June 2006) yesterday. You're correct, the smallest Explorer Trophy is now the 395. I asked the salesman about the change: apparently, it's to do with the maximum motor size being increased to 30 hp (compared to 25 hp for the 385 it replaced). I'm now wavering between the Explorer Trophy, or moving up to the 400 Hornet Trophy, or down to a base model unpainted 385 Explore (yes, the base boat is still a 385) or 400 Hornet Wide Body. Knew this would happen when I stepped into a dealership! But on balance, I'll probably follow Grantm's advice and go for the 395 Explorer Trophy. Both the Trophy Explorer and Trophy Hornet are packaged-up with a 30 hp 2 stroke Mariner outboard, Quintrex TQ42 trailer, safety equipment, boat and trailer registration, and each carries a 3 year warranty. The 395 Explorer Trophy package costs $9,461 (before dealer delivery charges, marine insurance and local statutory charges (?) are added). The 400 Hornet Trophy package costs $11,208 ( or almost $1,750 more) before the add-ons, but it also includes a 20 litre plumbed live bait tank and Lowrance x52 sounder -- and you also get the V-Flared Eclipse hull. I was able to obtain the January - February 2006 Stacer catalogue. The price of the package for the boat closest to the Trophy Explorer, the 399 Proline Angler, costs more -- $9,493 before add-ons, and it only includes a 25 hp Mariner 2 stroke. So the Quintrex is a far better buy. Questions: # Does anyone know how the Explorer's smoothness of ride compares to a Hornet's? # Is it worth paying the extra for the Hornet package, or is it better to have a plumbed live bait tank and sounder added to the Explorer package? # Do the Trophy boats, with their custom fit-outs (casting platforms, floors etc), provide much of a saving compared to buying a base model boat and paying to have these features installed after the boat's been purchased? # The dealer said Mariner motors were made by Mercury. Are Mariner motors just "rebadged" Mercurys with a different paint job, or are they actually different motors (with different design and performance)? I need some advice from the experienced commercial hard heads here. # When negotiating down the the price with a dealer, is it easier to get the dealer to move the price down on discretionary accessories (such as a bow-mounted electric motor and cable control) than to persuade them to discount the price of the boat, motor, trailer package? I was thinking that the cost to the dealer of the electric motor is far less than retail, so they might be willing to foregoe some of the margin to sell the package. # I was also thinking of asking the dealer to fit a bilge pump and add a spare trailer wheel at no extra cost, as a sweetener to clinch the deal. What are my chances, do dealers often do this? # I'm a cash buyer. Can I expect a substantial discount if I pay cash? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Thanks for the input, much appreciated - particularly Flattieman and Grantm. Thanks also for your advice Stewy, but I reckon it's better to walk into boat dealership ready to buy: having thought through what you really need and are prepared to pay. Less confusing than just looking at lots of different boats -- and also avoids wasting the salesman's time (or inappropriate impulse purchases). Went fishing on Brisbane Water in my tinny yesterday morning with a mate visiting from Sydney. We fished down from the Rip Bridge. I scored first, a 45 cm flattie on a softie; then the mate caught a 30 cm tailor on softie; after a move down to Ettalong, the mate then caught a 30 cm bream on squid, followed quickly by a 55 cm flattie also on squid (his biggest by far ever); and I rounded out the morning with a 60 cm flattie on a softie. Those squidgie grubs aren't bad are they? Both my flatties took the squidgies while I was pre-occupied with my transom-mounted electic motor when manoeuvering the tinny -- I didn't even realised they were on till I lifted the rod tip! It's going to be difficult to let the little old tinny go -- it certainly does the job. But when we were fishing Ettalong, a fellow motored by in a late model Quintrex 385 Explorer Trophy. Now that's an attractive and nicely set-up boat. Perhaps it won't be so difficult to transfer my affections to another boat. I measured the interior of my garage last night. It's only a little over 5 metres in length. It seem to me it's really the length of a boat's trailer that determines how long a boat will fit in a space? So, the trailer for a 3.85 metre boat is probably as long as will fit in my garage. This rules out 4 metre and longer boats (including Polys). I'll probably go for a new, or near new, Quintrex Explorer 385, or similar boat from Stacer or Stessl -- and purchase from a local dealer, so it'll be convenient to claim repairs under warranty, and have the motor serviced. A smaller, lighter 3.85 metre boat should also allow me to use a 20hp or 25 hp two stroke and less powerful bow mounted electric than required for a bigger, heavier boat? Multiple savings would satisfy the scrooge in me. I'd like to ensure the new boat's set-up well though, so it's very comfortable, works well, and is a pleasure to own. I'm prepared to spend my savings (from buying a slightly smaller boat) to achieve that. So I've a few more questions you guys might be prepared to answer: # Trailers can also be optioned-up with galvanised springs, swing-up jockey wheel and bearing buddies. Are these worth the extra cost? # My 4hp Mercury two-stroke petrol motor and 28lb thrust freshwater Evinrude electric, I use on my current tinny, are around 15 years old and still going strong (I always flush the petrol motor, and hose the salt off both after each use in the salt). So as you say GrantM, it's probably best not worry too much about motor brands, but to buy new and maintain well. I'll probably also go with a 40 lb thrust freshwater electric and have the bracket factory fitted, as you suggest. But is it possibly to have electric start on small 20hp to 25hp two-stroke motors, the same as most people have it on motors of 50hp and up? # Are the Quintrex factory fitted live bait tanks big enough to hold live bream, flatties and EP for measurement in a tournament prior to release? If not, what's the minimum size of tank suitable for this purpose and best way to rig it in a small 3.85 metre bream punt? # What should I look for in a sounder/fishfinder. What are the "must have" features and what should I be prepared to spend? # Am I likely to need a bilge pump? Why might I need one? # I found an article on the Web about setting-up bow mounted electric motors. The author (Bushy) says they can be cable-steered or auto pilot (?). He says cable steered is the only way to go. What's the difference between these two steering method? What do most Aussie bream boat owners use? Which is best? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Thanks for all the comments and suggestions -- and offers to sell me boats. My head's spinning at the moment. New boat or second hand? Ally or poly? Punt or conventional hull? Which brand of two-stroke and electric?... But I'm determined to work through all this, and buy the best boat for the job. So I've a few more questions: # I'm a scrooge (tightwad), and before I buy anything, I always ask "will I get most of my money back when inevitably it's time to sell?" How well do the Polycraft boats hold their resale value? How about the various alluminium boats: Quintrex, Stessl, Stacer, Ally Craft .. hold value much the same? The different brands of 25 to 30 hp two-strokes also? # What should I look out for when buying a trailer? Do dealers tend to skimp on trailers when selling package deals? # The 4 hp outboard on my little dinghy is a manual start and it's a pain. Is it better to have an electric start, where you just flick a switch? # Any traps to be aware of when buying batteries to power the boat electricals (outboard, electric motor, sounder etc)? # What's the best system for controlling the boat using a bow mounted electric motor? I've seen people steer them by hand from the casting platform and also operate them by foot control, and I've read there are several types of foot controls. What's best. # My dinghy's unpainted, so minor accidental collisions with launching ramps, oyster racks etc which cause scratches don't bother me, as they are hard to see. With a painted aluminium hull, however, this wouldn't be the case. And if a hull's left unpainted it's also cheaper to buy? Does the painting of an alluminium hull serve any other useful purpose, other than to make a boat look better? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, I've been enviously scanning the posts for new boat ideas. Yep, it's almost time to trade-in the cheap second-hand 3.48 metre tinny on trailer for something more suitable to the job at hand. I'll be fishing mostly sheltered estuaries, with perhaps the odd excusion out into Broken Bay on a good day. I've recently become hopelessly addicted to SP fishing for bream, flatties and EPs, so that's the main task for the boat. But I'd also like to fly fish from it, as well as occasionally fish with bait for everything from blackfish (using green weed under a float) to jewfish (using squid and live bait). Garage size and budget constraints mean the maximum size of the boat would be 4 metres. Most likely it would be slightly smaller than that. I was thinking something along these lines: # Advanced hull design "pointy punt". # Modern two stroke -- 30 hp or smaller. # Bow mounted, foot controlled electric motor (how much thrust?). # Fishfinder # Full floor with raised bow casting platform and under-floor storage. # Pedestal seats, with mountings fore, aft and on casting flatform. # Anchor well. # Live bait/fish keeping tank. # Heavy duty trailer with spare wheel to suit. Questions: 1. Can I realistically expect to buy this outfit new for less than $10,000? 2. Does this look to be a good outfit for the type of fishing I intend to do? 3. Is there a better outfit? Perhaps conventional hull instead of pointy punt? 4. Which manufacturer provides the best factory fitted-out boat for the money? 5. Are all two strokes pretty much the same, or are one manufacturer's motors better? 6. What's the best electric motor for the job? 7. Years ago, I had a very wet, rough and unpleasant ride as a passenger in an early "explorer" when travelling through a bad chop on Broken Bay. But I've been told recent developments in hull design have made for a smoother, dryer ride. Is this true? I'd appreciate comments or suggestions from Fish Raiders who have experience with this type of boat. Regards, Bob

Hi Joe, Here you go: http://www.mhl.nsw.gov.au/data/tide_data_baro.htmlx Regards, Bob

Hi Joe, Bass are very sensitive to changes in barometric pressure (I don't know why). You might have done better yesterday or this morning. There's a front coming through tomorrow, and the pressure's been falling fast this afternoon. Don't believe me? Then have a look at this site: http://www.mhl.nsw.gov.au/data/tide_data_baro.htmlx Regards, Bob

Hi Rob, Good advice from Stewy about lures. But keep in mind four things. 1. Hot humid days and a rising barometer are usually requirements for a successful bass outing. And it's now starting to be a little late in the season for the headwaters: many of the larger fish will soon start to move down to the brackish reaches of the estuaries as winter approaches. I prefer bassing in October, November myself, as the bass move upstream and are hungry after spawning -- but any morning or evening on a hot, steamy day will find them in an agro mood. Watch out however, for sudden drops in barometric pressure, such as just before a southerly front moves through, as the fishing will tend to shutdown. But the fish are likely to bite their heads off as the weather settles, once the front has passed. 2. If you can find them in the right mood (see 1) then almost any small to medium size floating wobbling lure with a strong action will do the job, even the imported cheapies. Far more important than the brand of lure IMHO is an ability to cast right into the thick cover, the fish-holding zone. If you're not getting hung-up on logs, overhanging tree branches etc occasionally, then you're not casting in close enough. Your number of hits will increase the more you are able to cast into where the fish are holding. Bass prefer dark, shady spots with plenty of overhang (trees, cliffs etc), so seek out cover that has plenty of shade -- it'll be far more productive than an equally good area area brightly lit by sunlight. 3. Let the lure sit in the fish holding zone and bob about, sending out little waves, before commencing a slow retrieve (that is, you can use your floating wobbler as a popper until you start your retrieve). In fact, I often leave the lure in the cover for up to minute, giving it little twitches, before commencing a retrieve. The longer your lure remains in the fish holding zone, the greater your chances of a strike. 4. Be prepared to work good cover well before moving on. You'll be surprised how often, even using the the technique outlined (in 2 and 3), you'll decide there can't be any fish as you've peppered a snag with casts, only to have your lure smashed by an aggressive bass, sometimes almost at the end of the retrieve. Bass often seem to need a little teasing and niggling before deciding to attack a lure. But attack they do -- which is why they're such a sought after sportfish. Hope some of this helps you hook and land a few. Regards, Bob

Hi Flattieman, Good point about selecting colour shades according to the conditions being fished. There's just about every colour of SP tail and head out there -- which might mean plenty of sales for those in the tackle game but makes it very complex and confusing for the average fisho. I recently bought bright fluoro green 3/8 oz and 1/2 jigs heads in bags of 25 because I felt they'd be good fish attractors in murky waters when fishing for flatties (and also because I'm a bit of a scrooge, and at $6.99 for 25 it wouldn't cause too much pain if they were hung up on snags). Have you tried painted jig heads as fish attractors? Should you match the jig head colour to the colour of the tail you're using? Do you reckon colour really matters, or is it enough to just to select a light or dark shade of head and tail? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Thanks for the congrats. But now I have your attention, I'd like to ask another couple of questions (wouldn't you just guess it?). I didn't have any luck with the Berkley bass minnow, but hooked-up on an EP after only a few casts when I changed to a smaller curley tail grub. Might have been that I wasn't retrieving the minnow correctly, but my style of retrieve suited the grub? Do you use the same style of retrieve with minnows/stick baits as you use with grubs? For that matter, how do you retrieve your softies? Do you vary your retrieve style? I've seen different shaped jig heads, painted and unpainted. I was using the unpainted Squidgee 1.5 gm #4 ball jig head. What other heads do you use and why do you use them? Regards, Bob

Hi guys, Just like to thank the guys who answered my questions about SPs over the last month or so. This afternoon it all came together -- I've finally moved the species count beyond flatties. Picked up a mate on the way, and then launched the tinny in the local estuary. We fished for flatties first (the most obvious candidates) but had no luck -- even though a boat nearby scored a nice one on live poddy. But not to be defeated, we retreated to the mate's "secret spot", a channel among the weed beds, and used very light jig heads with small SPs. My mate scored first: a stud bream on a 2" pink curly tail grub. I wasn't having any luck on my 3" bass minnow, so the lure was changed to a prawn coloured 2" curley tail grub. The result was almost immediate: a fish engulfed the lure just as I was about to lift it from the water. When the fish came into view, after a solid fight, my mate and I both called it for another big bream. But when the fish was netted and in the boat, we both recognised it as an estuary perch. It measured 33 centimetres. This was my first EP -- actually it was first one I'd ever seen. I decided it was too good to kill, so it was returned it to the water. After another 20 minutes of casting, another solid hook-up. As the fight was the same as when I caught the first fish, I correctly called it for another EP. This fish went 32 centimetres, almost identical to the first. This one was returned to the water too. Whilst I'm by no means an expert, it seems to me that keys to hook-ups on bream and EPs are: use light jig heads and small tails, let the jig sink to the bottom on plenty of slack line and then work it very, very slowly. Good luck to other guys trying to work-out how to use SPs successfully. Regards, Bob

Hi Ian, Like Tim, I live on the Coast and confirm everything he says. The Avoca ledges are very accessible, so they attract huge crowds of often not very experienced fishos at weekends and public holiday periods during the warmer months. Many fish pillies under large floats, so finding a clear patch to cast a lure can be tricky at times. Fishing for pelagics is best at first light, when you also can beat at least some of the crowds, particularly if you fish during the week. Some people fish at night for tailor, salmon etc, but I'm not a fan of dodging boomers in the dark (it's risky enough during the day). And as Tim stresses, please take your garbage (plastic bags, old fishing line, spent torch batteries etc) with you when you leave, and return fish gut and frames to the water. After a busy weekend the Avoca rocks can resemble a smelly garbage dump -- a very sore point with local fishos. Regards, Bob