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Okuma Reels


ozguy

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Hi folks,

I see a few Okuma reels in Anconda and would like some feeback which are the good/bad reel out there e.g i heard lot of bad feeback on the Samura 7i.

P.S i am looking at 3000-4000 series for all round fishing e.g river, beach

Cheers :)

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Hi folks,

I see a few Okuma reels in Anconda and would like some feeback which are the good/bad reel out there e.g i heard lot of bad feeback on the Samura 7i.

P.S i am looking at 3000-4000 series for all round fishing e.g river, beach

Cheers :)

Hi Mate,

personally, i'd stay away from okuma if you plan on using the reel for more than 6 months,

i actually have a really nice new Pflueger Medallist, 4000 size, that would suit your needs perfectly, top of the range, 10 bearings and a 5 year warranty. Have a look in the Swap and Sell section...

Cheers

Sam

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Guest madsmc

I see a few Okuma reels in Anconda and would like some feeback which are the good/bad reel out there e.g i heard lot of bad feeback on the Samura 7i.

P.S i am looking at 3000-4000 series for all round fishing e.g river, beach

Okuma don't make a reel by that name, so I'm assuming you're talking about the Daiwa Samurai 7i. I haven't read or heard anything about them, but another Raider may be able to give you some feedback.

I own a few Okumas. The higher end reels like the Epix range are quite good. The Epix EFS 30 and 60 are my main reels, the 30 is used for light to medium SP and HB lure fishing, while the 60 is used for bigger plastics and metals off the rocks. Both of these reels have performed well in the time that I've had them.

I'm sure some of the other Raiders will be happy to give you some advice on other brands in the 3000-4000 size range.

At the end of the day I think it's best to actually go into your local tackle shop and have a look at the reels in person, so you'll end up with a reel you feel comfortable using.

Shane

:1fishing1:

Edited by madsmc
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Thanks guys !!

How much does the Pflueger Medallist cost?? where do they sell it in Melbourne???

I was thinking of getting the reel for my wife don't have to be expensive cost it hurt when she drop in on the land like cheap dirt :1yikes: .

Anyway i am very interested in the Symetre 4000 from Shimano and the new Daiwa Exceler 4000, just have to test out the Daiwa before decide what to get.

Cheers :)

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I've got an Okuma Mystique 2000 on my SP stick. So far it has performed admirably especially concidering it was a cheaper reel for a tighter budget.

It's a year old now and still going as new. But then, I'm a nazi about cleaning my kit when I'm done. :)

Good Value for money.

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Dont buy Okuma

Iv'e got quite a few Okumas in my reel collection and so far they have been really good for the money. But i'm always interested to hear feedback from other fishos. Dredded Eel have you had some problems with Okuma ?

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Hi guys,

At the risk of upsetting some of you, I have to say most modern reels represent extremely good value for money.

But IMHO many of the top-of-the-line offerings are actually over-engineered. Does your reel really need ten ball bearings? OK, why and where are they located?

Far more important than running out and buying the latest, whiz-bang leading brand offering, incorporating "the latest technology", is to stop and ask a few simple questions:

# What type of fishing will I use this reel for -- how much wear and tear will there be on drag, gears and bearings?

# Do I fish aggressively - using maximum drag, or casting heavy sinkers or lures - so the reel will be under maximum pressure, or do I use light terminal tackle and finesse to subdue fish, taking plenty of time and using light drag?

# How often will I fish with the reel -- a couple of times a year, when family commitments permit, or at least once every week, no matter what the weather?

# Do I look after my tackle, and lubricate and service it regularly? Even the best quality tackle will soon corrode and fall apart if it is subject to rough use around salt water and not well maintained.

After asking these questions, you may find that you don't really need a top-of-the-line reel: a far less expensive reel will do the job admirably.

It's also worth remembering that even reels that "break" can often be cheaply repaired by the manufacturer, or by your local tackle shop.

I own several dozen reels, some over forty years old, that I've use for almost all types of fishing, in both fresh and salt water. They range from cheap Alvey bakelite sidecasts to Penn and Shimano overheads that are built as tough as a country out-house. I have a special fondness for early ABU baitcasters and Mitchell threadlines, classics in their day. They're still often used, and still perform well at the job for which they're intended.

Over recent years I've bought several Okuma reels: an Integrity fly reel, an Endurance EDB30 baitfeeder, and an EPIX EFS60. All were purchased for an identified purpose and, for me at least, perform well and represent good value for money. I'm very satisfied.

Regards,

Bob

Edited by kenmare
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100% agree with you there Kenmare.

Unless you are a pro and use your reels multiple times in a week, and really need that extra reduction in weight, a middle of the line reel will always be adequate.

I have fished with okumas, and they are good reels for the money, reliable, and if it breaks, well, it comes with a 5 year warranty, and they have good service.

Unless you have $400 to burn on a certate, an okuma do. At the risk of causing some controversy, an okuma WILL catch you just as many bream.

Does anyone disagree?

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People always want to bag out Okuma for some reason. Maybe a lot of the guys who do this haven't owned one and are only going on what they've heard from others in the past. So the reputation lives on.

Maybe these stories were all started by Daiwa or Shimano reps. :1prop:

I own a couple of okuma reels and I haven't had a single problem with them. Not one. And yes I do use them regularly. And like the other guy said, it's got a 5 year warranty.

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Any reel will catch you bream, over and over again. I have a $40 Shimano reel in the 2000 series, caught thousands of yakkas,slimies and bream, tailor, etc, still going strong. For these little fish you dont need any decent outfit, seriously!

But move up to the larger fish and start using reels in the 4000 size and up, for Kings, Snapper, Sharks and Jews, Okuma dont cut it, they feel great seriously for about 2 weeks. Then they start to not feel the same, sticky drags, gear failure and so on. They dont compare in anyway to Shimano or Daiwa these days and even Penn apart from Servicing!!!, and they have had a lot of time and mark up to get better. They are crap if you seriously know your reels.

All my rods and reels get a hammering and over the years only the above brands have stood the test of time. I fish at least once a week and they all get maximum usage.

Oh and by the way, i have tried many different Okumas and still use them these days but they are just not as smooth after a while and this may result in a lost fish at times when you have the chance to get that fish of a lifetime.

I disagree. I've found these reels to be very reliable. I'm not talking about bream reels either.

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I agree with you Eel, if you are chasing big fish like kingies etc, you need high end gear that will last, but ozguy is after an "all around" fishing reel, so I doubt he will be chasing 10 kg kings (well not yet anyway). For estuary fishing, you really don't need to shell out the big bucks.

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Guest madsmc

OK people, we're starting to get a bit off topic here.

The point of this thread is to assist ozguy in identifying a reel suitable for his situation.

Obviously there are two opposing views here on the issue of Okuma reels, and from previous experience I know exactly where this discussion is heading, so let's just leave it at that.

There's nothing wrong with people having a difference of opinion, but let's not ruin the thread with it.

Shane

:1fishing1:

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Guest Dont Shoot Da Chinamen

I agree with you Eel, if you are chasing big fish like kingies etc, you need high end gear that will last, but ozguy is after an "all around" fishing reel, so I doubt he will be chasing 10 kg kings (well not yet anyway). For estuary fishing, you really don't need to shell out the big bucks.

um...

with Okuma I have never had a Problem

Check out the Okuma V series and if your looking on ebay u can probably get about 40% off the retail price (SEARCH INTERNATIONAL)

the V 30 - V 40 is the same as the 3000-4000 series but... it is okuma's top of the range new reel with TWO DRAGS (top and bottom of the spool)

it will porbably set you back about $200 on ebay and about $350-$380 retail

checkout www.okuma.com.au and see the retail price for yourself

I have to say it has the best drag system and I have landed many sharks around 1.5 meter on the V 40

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I agree with you Eel, if you are chasing big fish like kingies etc, you need high end gear that will last, but ozguy is after an "all around" fishing reel, so I doubt he will be chasing 10 kg kings (well not yet anyway). For estuary fishing, you really don't need to shell out the big bucks.

Yeah - an Okuma Ignite will cost under $50 - I have experienced no problems with the one I got free with a mag subscription. I've also got another Okuma that I use for salmon and tailor off the beach - the HD80 - no problems there either.

Flattieman.

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Guest Saqa

If you are looking for an allrounder for baitfishing then take a look at the Alvey 500XT or 500XTLD. This will give you a lifetime of great service. Is strong enough to take anything on and has ample line capacity. You can use braided lines with these without any problems. I can make you up a very nice and rod under $200 to suit this and this oufit will be siutable for most river, harbour, estruary, beach and rock species. Think outside the square. I can help you master the casting as well.

I thought I would throw this in here as an alternative to the okuma vs Shimano debate :biggrin2:

It is okay to debate on your fav reels (I also have emotional attachment to my reels) but I have also put a lot of reels under extreme test conditions and the results can be amazing. If someone says to me get the Stella, its brilliant then I will ask then why do you say so. How many times have you had it under pressure. how did it cope with the salt spray/sand grit/dropping accidently/covered with fish slime/washing and service. how long have you had it for. If I know the person who is recommending it to be hard on his gear and if the person who I have some respect for then I will know that their recomendation has merit.I will not make any statements on durability of reels that I cant back up with controlled testing.

Here is the test conditions

You have to be fit to take part in this and set a whole night aside as it is quite time consuming. The testing can also result in gear failure but better doing this then on a fish of a lifetime

I have access to a 1000m long driveway which is also about 30m wide.

Drag testing - requires 3 people an torches for comunication

step 1: at one end of the drive way one bloke stands with the reel mounted on the rod and the drag set to desired kg.

step 2: one bloke jumps in the car is required to drive away at a desired speed (about 20-40kmph for most reels) and keep eye on the meters done. the third guy hangs on to a decent set of scales to which the line is tied. the line needs to go through the rod guides and the conditions set to recreate what will happen if you hook the largest fish expected on that outfit. This test sorts out the properly designed reels from the onest that are out there to get bulk sales from the fisho without any knowledge or skills.

step 3: The car is driven away and the line peels off under drag. the spool will heat up and the drag chages will be seen on the scale. the test should be repeated over and over untill it becomes clear that the reel can handle the max pressure and the reels which do well in this will provide a long service with the right looking after

Drivetrain testing

2 blokes required for this and plenty of time

setup: one bloke acts as the angler and the other the fish. all the line needs to be stripped out and the terminal end tied to a good set of scales. The line should be then wound on under a good bit of strain and the drag and scale settings recorded. They guy being the angler will soon see if the reel is strugleing or taking it easy

Good manufacturig procces can be expensive and does affect the price of the product. we buy reels and expect to catch a few fish on it and it should work well including punishing conditions. we can never know what is going to take the bait and what conditions nature will dish up so we should be at least be confident in our gear. We should also think about using the right tool for the job.

I have put main set of reels through above tests and discarded the ones which didnt make the cut. I have hung on to the ones which have performed well and these have caught me many fine fish, even specimens outside their class. I am now confident in their performance and durability and the initial price is meaning less now. I havnet got a heavy wallet and have problems saving so I use the layby offered by most shops and get gear that catches my eye. Sometimes a product can come along which is affordable and can perform well. An example of this is the shimano symetre 2000. I bought this reel for $160 a few years back and put it through the toture test. Now this has became the first one I pickup for most of my fishing. The other day I gave it to swordie to test one of my rods with. I have 10lb Fins PRT on this and I told him to dont hesitate to lock the drag up. I KNOW the reel will be alright

We need a good collection of test and service stories so peaople on the forum can make educated chices regarding tackle choice. There was a site which did this but the owner doesnt update it. If there was a catagory on this forum for product tests then we all could lmake life easier for each other by posting the initial performance supplemented by any outstanding performance, failures, performance levels a few months after initial testing of our gear and this will help us all to see which items are worth our money.

The fact that we are members of a fishing forum says to me that we are interested in our chosen sport. More then just chucking out the old prawn on a $30 combo and hoping for the best. That is why I advise to get the best you can afford. Have paitiance and use the layby method if you cant afford the item on the spot or if like me you have trouble saving

If any one wants to learn the potential of their reel then I can help you perform the same tests.

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All fishing gear needs to be looked after all the time ,rods reels lines ,lures and hooks

I am pretty maticulous at looking after every bit of gear I have and it doesnt let me down .

I always check all my gear the night before going on any trip ,guides, screws on reels which work loose and line is always wound on with no rubbish or nicks .New trace every time I start and new hooks if using jigheads

Most gear can be ok if looked after and will give you years of good service ,attention to detail can save you a world of pain when that fish of a lifetime comes along :biggrin2:

Cheers Swordfisherman

Just a little thing about reels ,they all need to be serviced regularly and you can tell when a reel is starting to get that funny feeling of not being smooth as it once was or not casting as far as it usually does or the drag is a little bit sticky

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All fishing gear needs to be looked after all the time ,rods reels lines ,lures and hooks

I am pretty maticulous at looking after every bit of gear I have and it doesnt let me down .

I always check all my gear the night before going on any trip ,guides, screws on reels which work loose and line is always wound on with no rubbish or nicks .New trace every time I start and new hooks if using jigheads

Most gear can be ok if looked after and will give you years of good service ,attention to detail can save you a world of pain when that fish of a lifetime comes along :biggrin2:

Cheers Swordfisherman

Just a little thing about reels ,they all need to be serviced regularly and you can tell when a reel is starting to get that funny feeling of not being smooth as it once was or not casting as far as it usually does or the drag is a little bit sticky

Hi fellas first time on the forum!

This is my two cents worth about Okuma/shimano. Bought 4 new okuma reels this year including a titus gold. These reels don't like being stressed. A bit of salt spray in the boat and a few kingies and they start to groan and moan. Have an eclipz ec65 which is supposed to be salt water proof but only good for catching squid. I have 4 shimano reels including a baitrunner that is going over 10 years. Works like a dream. They have even been completely dunked into the drink and still work great but nothing beats my alveys!

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All fishing gear needs to be looked after all the time ,rods reels lines ,lures and hooks

I am pretty maticulous at looking after every bit of gear I have and it doesnt let me down .

I always check all my gear the night before going on any trip ,guides, screws on reels which work loose and line is always wound on with no rubbish or nicks .New trace every time I start and new hooks if using jigheads

Most gear can be ok if looked after and will give you years of good service ,attention to detail can save you a world of pain when that fish of a lifetime comes along :biggrin2:

Hi Stewy,

Your comments are spot on. :thumbup:

I've lost count of the number of times stories about "tackle failure" turn out to really be angler failure, to use the appropriate tackle for the task, or more commonly, due to straight out tackle neglect or abuse.

Rods caught in car doors, stood on or sat on, or subject to "testing" and snapped in the process; reels left between trips coated in salt spray, not lubricated or dropped onto concrete launching ramps -- it's enough to bring a tear to your eye.

It only takes a few moments to carefully store rods and reels at home, when being transported, or on the boat, even less time to remove salt from gear with a light freshwater spray from hose or shower after each trip, and only a few moments more to lightly spray reels with WD40 and occasionally oil bearings and other moving parts.

Yet this is really the key to keeping your gear working well trip after trip and avoiding tackle failure on that "fish of a lifetime."

Regards,

Bob

Edited by kenmare
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Guest Saqa

Hi Stewy,

Your comments are spot on. :thumbup:

I've lost count of the number of times stories about "tackle failure" turn out to really be angler failure, to use the appropriate tackle for the task, or more commonly, due to straight out tackle neglect or abuse.

Rods caught in car doors, stood on or sat on, or subject to "testing" and snapped in the process; reels left between trips coated in salt spray, not lubricated or dropped onto concrete launching ramps -- it's enough to bring a tear to your eye.

It only takes a few moments to carefully store rods and reels at home, when being transported, or on the boat, even less time to remove salt from gear with a light freshwater spray from hose or shower after each trip, and only a few moments more to lightly spray reels with WD40 and occasionally oil bearings and other moving parts.

Yet this is really the key to keeping your gear working well trip after trip and avoiding tackle failure on that "fish of a lifetime."

Regards,

Bob

Looking after th gear is a must to get a long and happy use but would you risk a fish of a life time on gear which has not been engineerd properly, even if it has been cleaned after many trips but never been stressed

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How many people actually fish thier rods and tackle to their full potential ??? not a lot I think .Some of the tackle is a lot more robust and will take a lot more punishment when in the hands of very experienced fishermen . How many people set the drags with precison scales and are the knots good enough at times .Look what happened to Brian ,he put his tackle to maxiumum capacity and the knot gave way .Attention to detail will get you that fish of a lifetime even on tackle which doesnt have to big price tag if you know how to use it in the first place .It all comes down to experience on good fish over time .Once you have honed your skills anything is possible .World records are not fluked 99% of the time ,they are caught by people who have the skills and take the time to get it right every time they go out :biggrin2:

Cheers Swordfisherman

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In the warmer months I get out 2-4 times a week. Mainly for kingfish. As everyone knows to get kingies

regularly--gotta catch squid. I often make more than 100 casts in a day to catch both bait and fish. Unfortunately Okuma reels aint doing it for me.

I have an old penn spinfisher going 15 years and apart from worn bearings and paint, it still works. The drag is as good as it was on day one.

I look after my gear fastidiously. Cleaning, washing and oiling after every trip but Okuma reels even the top of the line models are not what they seem to be.I agree with EEL completely!!

I have a Titus gold tg10l which I have sent back to Freddys in auburn as the drag sticks like chewing gum. Lost a big fish on the weekend due to the drag. I set my drag using scales and this reel can't be trusted with 20lb of drag.

I now use shimano exclusively for kingies. The charter special and bait runner have never let me down. Still smooth as ever. Perhaps it works out cheaper if you get good gear even if it is slightly dearer in the first place!

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In the warmer months I get out 2-4 times a week. Mainly for kingfish...Unfortunately Okuma reels aint doing it for me.

Hi namesay,

As I recall, this thread started off with a request for suggestions of reels for all round river and beach fishing, not about reels for pulling kings 2 to 4 times a week.

But putting that aside for the moment, many moons ago, I and a few mates used to regularly tangle with kings and tuna, up to super jumbo size, down the South Coast around the Jervis Bay, both from the rocks and from boats.

IMHO the ONLY reels that can be relied upon to stand up to the demands of this type of fishing over any length of time are strongly built overheads. For one simple reason: this type of reel is built for the task.

Whilst I landed some reasonable sized kings on a big Mitchell 499 threadline I owned at the time but subsequently sold, IMHO few threadline reels of ANY brand are designed for sustained fights with very large pelagic fish, capable of repeatedly making long powerful runs.

My regular fishing mate, who at the time was close to a living legend for capturing very large fish from both the rocks and from boats, used to disparagingly refer to threadlines as "black fellas' reels." OK, that's racist, but back in those days it wasn't as necessary to be politically correct. What he meant, of course, was that threadlines, as a type of reel design, just weren't really up to the task.

But for fishing unweighted baits of tuna chunks or whole sea gar down a burley trail over a reef for snapper, now that was a completely different story. For that a threadline was alway the reel of choice.

Perhaps it's necessary to select the right TYPE of reel for a particular type of fishing task if it is to perform well -- that's why we have so many different types and sizes of fishing reel: overheads, threadlines, sidecasts, centrepins, closed face and so on? So it's possible to select a reel suitable to the fishing task?

Major manufacturers produce reels of different types, sizes and quality in their range. Could it be that the brand of reel selected is not really as important as it might first appear, other than for any preference you might have for the design features and feel of a particular reel, or a brand's after-sale warranty and service support?

Regards,

Bob

Edited by kenmare
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