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Starting A Motor Without Cooling?


Scienceman

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Hi Guys

No contention with anything said in regards to water from the leg and the impellor, but for an addional question

I bought a new Yammie 4stroke this yr and like many newer models it has a silent flusher, ie. a connector just below the block to hook a hose up 2,

With out me refering back to the manual cause u know u have failed a s amn if u have to read instruction, LOL

I have never used this as usually flsuhing in the afternoon so no neighbour issues, and was recommonded that traditional flsuhing is better

From this thread this connection should not be used with the motor turning over would that b the common belief?

Jon

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Hi Guys

No contention with anything said in regards to water from the leg and the impellor, but for an addional question

I bought a new Yammie 4stroke this yr and like many newer models it has a silent flusher, ie. a connector just below the block to hook a hose up 2,

With out me refering back to the manual cause u know u have failed a s amn if u have to read instruction, LOL

I have never used this as usually flsuhing in the afternoon so no neighbour issues, and was recommonded that traditional flsuhing is better

From this thread this connection should not be used with the motor turning over would that b the common belief?

Jon

You should not run the engine if using the silent flusher on your Yamaha. the silent flusher will only flush fresh water through your powerhead (engine block) and will not supply water to your water pump and it will run dry. Best method is to flush your engine with the ear muffs (traditional way) as this will flush fresh water through your water pump and water tube to avoid salt build up in those critical areas of your engine.

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Fantastic thread guys.

Here is another tip that works for me.

I purchased a large black tub ( +- 1 m x 75cm x 65cm ) from Bunnings and when I flush my motor I just get the tub and place it under the leg of the motor whereever I am washing down the boat ie driveway or lawn or street.

I run the motor on the muffs till the water level is over the water pick up. I remove the muffs and continue to run foor a while. Its great in winter as the water warms up!

Hardly a drop of water is wasted. There is often at least a teaspoon full of sand and bits and debris left in the tub. Just shows you what gets inside the motor.

By the time I have completed the engine flush I have removed all the gear from the boat and am ready with a brush and sponge to soap the boat. I then use buckets and sponges to rinse down the boat.

All excess water is collected goes onto the garden. Then use the tub to store all the cleaning gear for next time.

I have the yammie with the silent flush as well. This can be a great help sometimes when you come home really late and you don't want to wake the family or neighbours. Also if you go to a mates for a barbie after fising and then just hook up for a few minutes and give the block a good flush.

Hope this helps

cheers

inhlanzi

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if you run it for 1-2 minutes thats fine. it doesn't take very long for the fresh water to flush the salt water out of your engine. do a test your self, taste the water which is exiting out of your tell tale after 30 seconds of flushing. see if you can still taste the salt water.

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if you run it for 1-2 minutes thats fine. it doesn't take very long for the fresh water to flush the salt water out of your engine. do a test your self, taste the water which is exiting out of your tell tale after 30 seconds of flushing. see if you can still taste the salt water.

I guess it depends on the engin but on some , if not most , the tell tail is exactly that , a visual indicator that water is going to the motor not that the salt is washed out. To test this , if the TT is always cold then it is coming off the inlet side not after going through the motor.

Also, full flushing does not occur until the thermosate opens , approx 3 - 4 min again depending on the motor.

For mine a 70hp Yammie 2s the way to know if fully flushed is when water appears from the upper exaust ports & that water is warm & contains no salt

Geoff

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Hi all

I agree with Geoff, my understanding was that flushing works best when the block is hot/warm. Think about disolving salt in bioiling water or ice cold water. What we r trying to remove is baked salt in the block that has built up and the hot engine evaporates the water inside.

Easies way to achive this is flush ASAP when u get out of the water. (harder to do now as many ramps have capped taps)

Jon

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Yeah id say waiting for the thermostat to open will give you a much more thorough flush as the cylinder head would now get water. All the shitters ive pulled apart have had the heaviest salt build up in the head cavities. Perhaps and most likely that is due to them only being flushed cold when water doesnt pass through the head. New motors may be different in thier flow im only refering to older stuff.

Still you think getting it hot is the best idea. How long does that take ? I suppose it depends on the motor. 4 to 5 minutes would at least start the thermostat on its way. The longer the better i reckon.

Makes you wonder how usefull the silent flusher is then when the motor is not even running.

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:unsure: Now I am going to have nightmares about crusted salt in the water jackets !!!! Is there some kind of additive that will prevent corrosion internally ?

Ross

Yeah been there ! :074:

Dont panic too much Ross, if you had any blockages youd have known about it by now. When they get blocked really badly the thermostat does too, and the engine overheats. There is no additive for protection as far as i know, but once again refering to older outboards there used to be a service requirement at certain intervals where the head was removed, cleaned, perhaps thermostat replaced if needs and the head gasket replaced. Very simple and inexpensive ( back then ).I really dont know what the later models require. From my experience it was mainly engines that were not looked after at all that suffered.

I would just continue flushing as much as you can and it will be ok. Remember that there a vast amounts of people who dont flush at all or very little and its these motors that seem to have problems.

Im pretty sure the more modern ourboards have far greater protection agianst these build ups that the old stuff and youd have to neglect it pretty badly to have a major drama.

Hopefully Fisherman can confirm but even short flushes will still be more than ample to do the job its just a point of discussion in regards to the thermostat which may give the 'royal flush' so to speak.

Great thread aint it ? :thumbup:

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:unsure: Now I am going to have nightmares about crusted salt in the water jackets !!!! Is there some kind of additive that will prevent corrosion internally ?

Ross

You can use this as I have read on other sites it may help

http://www.biasboating.com.au/outboard_access.html

8571macs_anticorrosion.jpg

MACS Anti Corrosion Additive - For Outboard Motor Flushing

MACS gently cleans salt & corrosion deposits. After cleaning a fine film is left on all surfaces to inhibit further corrosion. The film also lubricates and protects moving parts in the water pump. MACS is added through normal engine flushing.

8572macs_injector.jpg

Macs Injector Cat, 8572 BIAS Price $39.95

Connect to flusher to regulate input flow

Macs Additive One litre bottle Cat. 8570 BIAS Price $36.95

Macs Additive Four litre bottle Cat. 8571 BIAS Price $88.90

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also on the note of flashing I use this if its to late when i get in. I needed to modify the size on the linisher as my prop was slightly to small.

When you use the silencer it creates better back pressure and i find more water flow through the rear exhaust.

4596_outboardsilencr.jpg

Outboard Silencers - All sizes $57.90

Reduces noise up to 55% when flushing outboards. Inserts into aft side of prop. Creates back pressure enabling accurate adjustment to engine idle, etc. Alloy with special rubber 'O' ring seal.

Edited by impulse
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I guess it depends on the engin but on some , if not most , the tell tail is exactly that , a visual indicator that water is going to the motor not that the salt is washed out. To test this , if the TT is always cold then it is coming off the inlet side not after going through the motor.

Also, full flushing does not occur until the thermosate opens , approx 3 - 4 min again depending on the motor.

For mine a 70hp Yammie 2s the way to know if fully flushed is when water appears from the upper exaust ports & that water is warm & contains no salt

Geoff

the water that exits out the tell tale has already been flushed through the water jackets. therefore if it still tastes salty, you are still flushing the salt water out. and regarding thermostats, they should open after aprox 1 minute of flushing.

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There is a product called salt away that susposed to be good. They have a web site that includes some testimonials on the product plus some pictures of head gaskets that have run the same engine for 12 months with and without the product.

Cheers

Kingpig

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