abiasin Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 hi all, i was wondering if anyone has changed a prop seal before on their motor, if so ow was it done? I have an older model suzuki 40 around the 1984-85 mark with the white cover and blue leg. I have removed the prop to find some fishing line and a damaged prop seal which is leaking. I would like to know how this is removed as i cannot get it out to replace it. any help would be great as i am completely stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jewgaffer Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 (edited) Hi Adrian. I'm not sure whether you mean the seal in the prop or not. I can help as far as the prop itself is concerned. Solas in QLD is the only place I know that does a top job on props for a fair price. They repair props either by welding tips on the blades or replacing the hub, bearings and seal etc. I've sent a couple of props up there. The blades were about sixty smackers and the hub reconditioned and pressed was about sixty five smackers and postage back was about twelve. It was all done pretty professional and my old props came back glossed right up and looking like new. It all finished up pretty easy and it was a magic result as my props looked to be throwaways. Otherwise a phone call to Huett Marine like I did when I bought their Turning Point generic 2pce metal prop would be the best way to go. Cheers jewgaffer Edited October 9, 2007 by jewgaffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abiasin Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hi Adrian. I'm not sure whether you mean the seal in the prop or not. I can help as far as the prop itself is concerned. Solas in QLD is the only place I know that does a top job on props for a fair price. They repair props either by welding tips on the blades or replacing the hub, bearings and seal etc. I've sent a couple of props up there. The blades were about sixty smackers and the hub reconditioned and pressed was about sixty five smackers and postage back was about twelve. It was all done pretty professional and my old props came back glossed right up and looking like new. It all finished up pretty easy and it was a magic result as my props looked to be throwaways. Otherwise a phone call to Huett Marine like I did when I bought their Turning Point generic 2pce metal prop would be the best way to go. Cheers jewgaffer cheers mate, i have taken the prop off, and there is a seal on the shaft behind where the prop sits which is stuffed. dont know how to replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jewgaffer Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Adrian we're not beat yet mate. M & W Marine at Taren Pt would be worth a phone call for new or good used or pm me for a mobile marine bloke in Bundaberg who has hundreds of parts for older motors going right back to 1950 even plenty of new ones. I've been up there and he has sheds full of motors and parts . He's a professional not just a jethro type tinkerer I've got his phone number and he will solve that one, no worries. Cheers jewgaffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abiasin Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Adrian we're not beat yet mate. M & W Marine at Taren Pt would be worth a phone call for new or good used or pm me for a mobile marine bloke in Bundaberg who has hundreds of parts for older motors going right back to 1950 even plenty of new ones. I've been up there and he has sheds full of motors and parts . He's a professional not just a jethro type tinkerer I've got his phone number and he will solve that one, no worries. Cheers jewgaffer cheers mate i might try m&w or the independant outboards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 HI Kingie, you will need to remove the propshaft bearing carrier to replace the propshaft seals. Being an older outboard I think it will be hard to get out if not impossible, but do not try to remove it without using heat otherwise you may destroy the bearing carrier. You also will need a puller to do the job. The seals will not be hard to get, the hard part will be getting the carrier and seals out. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abiasin Posted October 10, 2007 Author Share Posted October 10, 2007 HI Kingie, you will need to remove the propshaft bearing carrier to replace the propshaft seals. Being an older outboard I think it will be hard to get out if not impossible, but do not try to remove it without using heat otherwise you may destroy the bearing carrier. You also will need a puller to do the job. The seals will not be hard to get, the hard part will be getting the carrier and seals out. Cheers, Huey. Cheers huey, we are going to heat it up this arvo and see what we can do. Once out it shouldnt be too hard by what i have been told and have found on the net. Thanks all for the input and hopefully all goes well or ill be driving it down to you huey, its just a long drive from st clair but so ill give it a burl myself first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Hi Kingie, just take you time and try not to force it. Get as much heat into the gearcase around the bearing carrier as quickly as possible. Let us know how you go. Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abiasin Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 Hi Kingie, just take you time and try not to force it. Get as much heat into the gearcase around the bearing carrier as quickly as possible. Let us know how you go. Huey. bearing carrier out, seals to pick up and should be all done tomrrow or tuesday and back on the water this weekend if all goes to plan. thanks all for the input and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth0_7 Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 You might need to start your own shop. Good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pelican Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 (edited) Great to see you got it apart. A lot of seal damage happens when you are putting in your new seal. Dealers have bushes that go over splines and protect the seals from damage. Insulation tape yours up and grease them and check the surface they run on for any knicks or damage. Order and replace o-rings as necessary as it's easier to do now than pull it apart again and don't forget to replace the seals / gasket on your gearbox fill / empty bungs if they are hard as for $2 it's cheaper than getting water in the box. Use the best quality recomended oil as boxes are to expensive to rebuild if they fail. After you have run it on a decent run just undo your bung and check oil for water and the level. At least you spotted it a lot of owners just run them into the ground with failed seals. Hope it works out for you. Check with Huey but we always use omc triple guard so it comes aprt easier when we next have to service it. Edited October 15, 2007 by pelican Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Very good advise Pelican. Too much grease never hurt any bolt used in salt water. Replace the seals being careful when reinstalling over the propshaft. Fill with high performance gear oil, for about $35 you can get yourself the oil that they run in E-TEC ( high quality fully synthetic oil) and a pump to easily service the gear oil. While you are at it change the impeller and run it and recheck as Pelican suggested. Good job at getting your bearing carrier out. Let us know when you are back on the water, Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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