Penn Spinfisher 6500ss

[slinkymalinky]

I've had this reel for a long time and while by today's standards it's 'old tech', Spinfishers can take a lot of abuse without missing a beat. They're built simple and tough. Lets open this one up

Here's a link to the schematics....

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/...=12&pos=158

First, unscrew the drag tensioning knob (key #52) and remove the spool

Lets look after the drag next... have a look at how tiny those drag washers are for a relatively big reel... smaller than on my 2500 Stradic... but testament to the build quality, still up to tackling with big fish smoothly.

Remove the retaining spring (key #51) carefully so it doesn't go flying...

and take out the drag washers... they might be small but Penn's HT100 drag washers are top quality and for many reels, can be used in appropriate sizes for a significant drag upgrade.

Give the HT-100 washers (key #6)... there are 2 of them... a rub with a clean cloth to remove any accumulated crud and to drive any old grease into the washer and out of the way, before reapplying fresh drag grease.

Then reassemble the drag, making sure everything goes back in the same order.

While we've got the spool in hand, flip it over and apply a coat of grease to the clicker and spring.

Put the spool aside and remove the handle, handle collar (key #232N), felt seal washer (key #17N) and opposite side bearing cover (key #233).

Back out the 3 screws (key #46) so you can remove the left side plate (key #45N)

Remove the left side bearing (key #20A), open it up by removing the retaining clip from the shields...

and give it a good clean to clear out all the old lube... I use white spirit. Put the clean bearing to one side... we'll get back to that in a minute.

The main drive gear (key #8N) just lifts out.

There are 2 screws (key #44) holding the shaft retaining plate (key #43A) on the oscillating slider (key #43)... these come out so the plate can be removed.

Then, the main shaft (key #39) slides out.

Take out the oscillating slider and the oscillating gear (key #231) beneath

The right side bearing (key #20A) is now accessible and can be pushed out from behind. It too gets opened up and cleaned.

Next, remove the rotor nut (key #38) and washer (key #37) beneath

and lift off the rotor (key #27) itself...

To disassemble the next stage and get at the main bearing, first unscrew and remove the anti-reverse lever (key #6E) from the rear of the reel

then unscrew and remove the anti-reverse dog (key #4A) (this is how spin reels did it before clutch bearings... we now get infinite anti reverse but at a higher risk of the anti reverse failing under load.

followed by the anti-reverse trip cam (key #236)

The rachet gear (key #10) just lifts out (make sure you remember which way the gears are facing!)

The long transfer lever (key #224) can be unscrewed and removed and now you'll be able to access the bearing retaining plate (key #21), which can be unscrewed and removed. (There's no need to remove the remaining ratchet dog (key #4) so lets leave those springs and things alone... no need to tempt fate)

With the retaining plate out of the way, the pinion gear (key #19N) and main shaft bearing (key #20) simply lift out.

Open up and clean out the bearing and then lets get to putting everything back together.

The cleaned bearings can all be packed with grease (Evinrude outboard grease in this case). To make sure there are no air pockets in the grease, pack one side first the replace the shield on that side. Pack the other side and press down on it hard with the heel of your palm. If grease squeezes evenly out through the opposite shielded side, it's good to go.

A bead of grease can be run around the main shaft bearing recess

before the bearing (key #20) and pinion gear (key #19N)(with a coat of grease) are reinstalled

Before replacing the bearing retaining plate (key #21), give it a thin coat of grease and lightly grease the screw holes

There was a little minor surface corrosion evident on the transfer lever (key #224) so let's give all of the individual parts in the sub rotor assembly a smear of grease using greasy fingers.

When reinstalling the anti-reverse trip cam (key #236), make sure the spring (key #6D) engages with its retaining mount.

And finally, a coat of grease on the mounting plate will help resist corrosion (this should probably have been done before reinstalling all those bits but go figure!)

Screw the anti-reverse lever (key #6E) back on and this bit's finished.

Reinstall the re-lubed right side bearing (key #20A)

Apply a thin coat of grease to the inside of the reel body (key #1N) cavity

before greasing and reinstalling the oscillator gear (key #231)

With the oscillating slider (key #43) reinstalled, add a drop of oil to the shaft recess in the slider and to the shaft (key #39) itself before slipping it back in.

Add a dob of grease to the screw holes in the slider and align the notch in the main shaft so the retaining plate (key #43A) can be returned.

The drive gear (key #8N) can now be greased and slipped back into position

And the left side bearing (key #20A), having been packed with grease, replaced.

Give the inside of the left side plate (key #45N) a coat of grease and add a dob of grease to the screw holes (I really have to get myself one of the modified mini grease guns Alan Tani uses) before screwing the plate back on.

The screw thread and elbow of the handle (key #15) get a smear of grease

then the handle collar (key #232N) is replaced...

note that there's a felt washer (key #17N) that lives beneath the handle that serves as a rudimentary seal. If left dry, I can only imagine this would actually hold and retain water... not ideal! So it gets thoroughly soaked with Evinrude grease first (where I can I try to keep different types of lubricants from coming into direct contact, otherwise I would probably have used drag grease)

With that in place, the handle can go back on along with the oppposite side bearing cap (key #233), after a light coat of grease inside.

and nearly finished... the spool goes back on.

A few final bits and pieces to attend to, starting with the line roller. Back the bail roller screw (key #36) out being careful not to lose the tiny spring washer (key #36A)

and the line roller assembly (key #'s 132, 35, 35A) can be removed.

There was some gunge between the roller (key #35) itself, the roller washer (key #132) and the spindle. Along with some minor corrosion beneath the line roller screw.

After cleaning, the screw recess gets a coating of grease while the parts of the roller assembly and spindle, get a drop of oil before reassembling.

Let's not forget the bail arm assembly. Begin by backing out the bail arm screw (key #31)

and undoing the screw-in mount (this is integrated with the bail wire key #24) on the opposite side... you'll need to start this off with a pair of vise grips or multigrips.

then the bail arm (key #34) and wire (key #24)can be removed... be careful to pull the bail arm assembly carefully off the bail arm spring (key #32) so as not to bend it. The spring is under a fair degree of tension.

Next back the screw (key #50) out to allow the removal of the bail spring cover (key #227).

You'll now be looking at the bail spring (key #32), which needs to be removed. It's under enough tension to really need a pair of needle nose pliers. And there's always the risk when dealing with loaded springs that they'll fly off into the nearest deep-pile carpet... so hang on.

Give the bail spring cavity and the spring itself a good clean before applying a coat of fresh grease to both.

and to the inside of the bail spring cover

Then replace the spring, making sure that the short mounting arm is properly seated in the mounting hole.

With your pliers or fingers, the spring can then be pushed firmly to seat it back in the bail spring cavity, before replacing the cover.

Now lets clean up the bail arm and mounts... remove the bushing (key #34A) from inside the bail arm, clean it, add a drop of oil and replace it.

Add a smear of grease to the threads of the bail arm screw and screw in mount... and a drop of oil to the spindle section of the bail arm screw.

To reattach the bail arm and wire, start with the screw-in mount...

then move on to the bail arm, carefully aligning the bail arm spring with the small mounting hole in the bail arm to ensure it's properly seated. Because the spring is under tension, the bail arm won't automatically align with the bail arm screw hole.

You'll need to carefully apply pressure while holding the assembly, to align the holes so that the bail arm screw can be replaced.

A drop of oil on the bail wire where it enters the screw-in mount.

And finally, give it a quick test to make sure it's working properly.

And to finally finish off... the anti-reverse lever and handle knob both get a drop of oil.

There you go... all finished and now this Penn is as smooth as butter and ready for battle.

Cheers, Slinky

[alantani]

beautiful work! one thing that i've found helpful is to add the key #'s from the schematics and also let people know what the dimensions on the bearings are. drag washer dimensions are sometimes helpful as well.

[slinkymalinky]

beautiful work! one thing that i've found helpful is to add the key #'s from the schematics and also let people know what the dimensions on the bearings are. drag washer dimensions are sometimes helpful as well.

Thanks Alan. Good suggestion... when I get a moment I'll do an edit and add the details.

Cheers, Slinky

[jlloyd]

This sort of information is fantastic, Thanks Slinky. I have one query though, I have a 420 ssg that was dropped in the drink at North Head (my squidding outfit) and was recovered in a miracle wrapped up by a mates livie. I stripped all of it as the unit was seizing and the bail return was also seizing. All of what you describe above has been done but bugger me if I can work out how the bail return works. Does onyone know this as the parts sheet is lacking in this area.

Thanks

[slinkymalinky]

This sort of information is fantastic, Thanks Slinky. I have one query though, I have a 420 ssg that was dropped in the drink at North Head (my squidding outfit) and was recovered in a miracle wrapped up by a mates livie. I stripped all of it as the unit was seizing and the bail return was also seizing. All of what you describe above has been done but bugger me if I can work out how the bail return works. Does onyone know this as the parts sheet is lacking in this area.

Thanks

G'day Yakkaman,

I didn't bother with the bail return but this weekend, I'll crack it open on the 6500 and give it the once over and add it to this tutorial. It's a pretty simply mechanism in your reel and works essentially the same way in my Spinfisher so it might help you out.

Cheers, Slinky

[jlloyd]

Thanks a heap Slinky, being looking at these parts going huh how the hell?

[Mik]

Awesome Slinky, simply brilliant info & detail, the pics are great too.

Is there a chance that a Tiagra 50W might be showing up in these posts soon?

Oh and Tyrnos 30, Spheros 8000, and and and .....

Edited February 1, 2010 by Boofhead

[james7]

This forum is a great idea.

My mate has a Spinfisher 950 and asked me if it was basically the same as the 6500s inside.

Can he use all the above info as a guide for his reel or are there too many differences?

Cheers

Peter

[slinkymalinky]

This forum is a great idea.

My mate has a Spinfisher 950 and asked me if it was basically the same as the 6500s inside.

Can he use all the above info as a guide for his reel or are there too many differences?

Cheers

Peter

As a general guide, sure... as a definitive guide, no. Download the schematic and use this as the bible and the tutorial as a visual aid. All reels are a little different... some of the bigger Penn spin reels have a very different drag for example.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers, Slinky

[jlloyd]

Slinky,

sorry for the delay in a reply but thanks a heap, this solved the problem but I fear I have a friction trip ramp (I think this is what it is called) on the other side which is even worse, several small parts a spring and a bushing, I know where the bushing and spring goes but the two blades and wheter any tension is on the spring is needed is beyond me. I thinks meeself will need professional hepls for this.

Guys this section is awesome as parts diagrams don't describe excatly how it all goes together and tackle shops aren't always the most helpfull for this level of detail.

Thanks

[Bruce the Postie]

G'day Slinky,

Fantastic detailed post mate,a real help for those of us who like the big Penn's for their ruggedness and simplicity,with information like this available to raiders we should still fishing with these reels for another 20 years.

Anyway ,after reading your post i was inspired to pull down the old 850ss, as i have been putting up with a worn anti reverse dog and ratchet gear for a while now . As i suspected they are at the end of their life and need replacing.I dont suppose you could point me i the right direction as to the best place to get parts from.

Thanks Mate.

Bruce

[slinkymalinky]

G'day Slinky,

Fantastic detailed post mate,a real help for those of us who like the big Penn's for their ruggedness and simplicity,with information like this available to raiders we should still fishing with these reels for another 20 years.

Anyway ,after reading your post i was inspired to pull down the old 850ss, as i have been putting up with a worn anti reverse dog and ratchet gear for a while now . As i suspected they are at the end of their life and need replacing.I dont suppose you could point me i the right direction as to the best place to get parts from.

Thanks Mate.

Bruce

PM sent, Bruce.

Cheers, Slinky