GregL Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Hi fellow Raiders Coming from single piece rods to now going to two or more pieces for better transportation and also moving to longer rods in general, I now have more things to worry about. One thing that I have noticed, the heavier jig and popping rods the ferrule's become hard to pull apart after a solid session. I do clean them and make sure theres no dirt n grit in the join before putting them together but they seem to become "sticky" after you load them up. I have done a little bit of research on the net and tried to order some ferrule wax in from the states but was stopped by quarantine...... I asked my local tackle store and was followed by a weird puzzled look on wtf I was on about..... So is there anything here and where to get? Can you use "other" waxes to do the same job like surf board wax? Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy0884 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Hi fellow Raiders Coming from single piece rods to now going to two or more pieces for better transportation and also moving to longer rods in general, I now have more things to worry about. One thing that I have noticed, the heavier jig and popping rods the ferrule's become hard to pull apart after a solid session. I do clean them and make sure theres no dirt n grit in the join before putting them together but they seem to become "sticky" after you load them up. I have done a little bit of research on the net and tried to order some ferrule wax in from the states but was stopped by quarantine...... I asked my local tackle store and was followed by a weird puzzled look on wtf I was on about..... So is there anything here and where to get? Can you use "other" waxes to do the same job like surf board wax? Greg Hi Greg, I have a number of two piece rods, including a few Tcurve two pieces that lock up after fishing and prove very difficult to separate. I have found the best solution is some talcum powder, or dry graphite lubricant. I have tried wax, grease and lanolin spray but they all seem to bind up once they have sat in the sun for a day and the wax/grease melts away and almost forms a glue. cheers Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregL Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Thanks Sam for your reply. I to thought that with wax melting in heat would become sticky which is not good as most of the big gear is for the tropics..... I was worried that putting a powder in would then scratch up the male section of the ferrule as it's a grain but didn't think of talc..... Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mik Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Greg I use dry graphite powder too & its ok, you do need to reapply it every 2nd or 3rd session though but it definatley helps getting the buggers apart agian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpie Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Hi Greg SOMEWHERE (just don't ask where!!) I have some ferrule wax that I was supplied with when I bought a Penn Fly Rod! If I can find it, I can cut it in half & send you some!!! So far, the rod has never stuck together as it is always broken down to transport. I'd heard that it is safer to 'break a sticky 2 piece rod' by holding it behind your back & pulling it apart, rather than pulling it apart in front of you ....... seems you have more likelyhood of breaking or splitting it by using too much pressure! I'll let you know if I find it - I have seen it recently, just not sure where!! Cheerio Roberta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy0884 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Thanks Sam for your reply. I to thought that with wax melting in heat would become sticky which is not good as most of the big gear is for the tropics..... I was worried that putting a powder in would then scratch up the male section of the ferrule as it's a grain but didn't think of talc..... Greg Hi Greg, the graphite powder is an excellent lubricant as it disintegrates under pressure into microscopic balls of carbon, think tiny ball bearings as opposed to sliding on grease. It definately wont scratch the male section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny doi Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 greg. i had a rod stick together & i took it to a local tackle shop.the guy used graphite powder & we got it apart.since then iv used grapite powder & havnt had any probs since. cheers johnny. p.s. do you sometimes work at the fairfeild bing lee store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregL Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thanks Raiders! Good advice that now makes sence. Roberta if you find it that would be great and then there will be a comparison between dry powder and wax, I have enough rods to have a good testing session on I recon...... greg. p.s. do you sometimes work at the fairfeild bing lee store? Hi I use to work in the offices upstairs of the store when I had the life of a toaster buyer. Currently I'm based in Carlingford for now while I sort some other parts of my life out before I deside on what's the NEXT direction...... Are you a local Fairfieldian? Go in a hassel Snag out, he's there! lol "hello Jorg" G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpie Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Yaaay!! Found it, Greg - pm me your address & I'll pop it into the post!! Cheerio Roberta And It was a Kilwell fly rod, not a Penn!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luderick59 Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 try this, an old english fisherman used to run his finger down the back of his ear or his nose then rub it on the ferrule each time he joined his rod, it works peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tan the fisherman Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 try this, an old english fisherman used to run his finger down the back of his ear or his nose then rub it on the ferrule each time he joined his rod, it works peter wax build up from no bathing often!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny doi Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Thanks Raiders! Good advice that now makes sence. Roberta if you find it that would be great and then there will be a comparison between dry powder and wax, I have enough rods to have a good testing session on I recon...... Hi I use to work in the offices upstairs of the store when I had the life of a toaster buyer. Currently I'm based in Carlingford for now while I sort some other parts of my life out before I deside on what's the NEXT direction...... Are you a local Fairfieldian? Go in a hassel Snag out, he's there! lol "hello Jorg" G greg, yeah unfortunately i do live in fairfeild.lol.fairfeilds ok to live.i jus stick to myself really.so is snag a fairfeildian too or does he work at bing lee there? cheers johnny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregL Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 greg, yeah unfortunately i do live in fairfeild.lol.fairfeilds ok to live.i jus stick to myself really.so is snag a fairfeildian too or does he work at bing lee there? cheers johnny. I'm pretty sure both, if not very local. He's got a Stacer bream boat driving around that area with Bing Lee down the side. Can't beat the run over chicken at Franks or the pork in foil at Jenmy's in Fairfield! yum yum G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulla Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 (edited) In regards to wax for ferrules smith has a rod wax specifically for this its cheap.Hered about it on another forum i have 3 rods that are butt ferrule and am planning to get some It has had good reports hope that helps. Edited March 13, 2010 by sulla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caranx Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Use the smith wax and its great. Else , use candle wax. Lubricants should be used on rod joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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