Quintrex or Stacer

[Terry]

What are views on Quintrex verus Stacer in terms of which are better and why?? in the 4 to 4.2m size

For example Quintrex Explorer Trophy up against Stacer Proline Angler??

Within Quintrex, what are thoughts between the Explorer Trophy and Hornet Trophy

[a boat]

Hi, everyone will have their favourite and I have mine and why I choose to stock and sell Stacer. In the models you are comparing they are very similar and both are excellent boats but I prefer the Stacer layout with the better casting deck. To say one will ride better or be more stable that is not the case. As for comparing the Traveller to the Hornet, it is like comparing the Proline Angler to the Barra Elite, they are totally different boats and the Barra Elite and Hornet are superior in ride and almost as good in stability but they do cost more so is that extra cost worth it-only you can decide that. My advise is buy from a dealer that you trust and has been in business a long time and if that happens to be a Quintrex, I am sure you will enjoy it. If you contact me with what you want I can price up a Stacer with any technology outboard you like and I do have a 2010 Proline Angler here at the moment that is the side console version and has the engine upgraded and sits on the top of the line Stacer trailer, not a cheap aftermarket trailer that some dealers put these boats on.

Cheers,

Huey.

[m_a-wright]

Hi Terry,

I purchased a stacer proline angler 4.2 model with side console with a 40 HP yamaha on the back about 8 months ago and been really pleased with its performance and finish. I only fish inland lakes and rivers but i have been impressed with the new sports hull design and the ride through choppy water. I had an old proline previous to this one and the ride is like chalk and cheese. I did look at the quintrex and there did not seem to be much between them in layout etc and from my understanding i was told they are made in the same factory? The reason why i went with the stacer is that the dealer is at the top of the street and he also supplies Yahama outboards.I predominantley troll so i was interested in the trolling switch that is fitted to the yammies and that has been a god send.

[Sanfly]

I brought a brand new Quintrex three years ago still got it but.......

The trailer failed its first rego check while still under warranty

and was found to be a factory fault

and the boat had only been in the water four times when some

of the paint started to bubble

Bottom line Telwater/Quintrex would not honour the warranty

the dealer fixed the paint for free which was appreciated

The trailer cost me about $125 to fix out of my pocket

All in all happy with the boat boat But Would Never Buy from Quintrex Again

I hope their happy with the bad feed back and I hope it costs them more than $125

Maybe go with Stacer they might honour their warranty

Cheers Sanfly

[Terry]

Well I found & purchased a near new Dec 2010 399 Proline Angler with a Honda 4s. Chap who purchased it in Dec needed to quit it quickly and now it is mine. Has remote controls with a side console and hydraulic steering and also a Hummingbird 788ci HD combo.

I want to fit up a Minn Kota® Riptide SP 55 with iPilot. I have ordered a 48" model as I believe that is the right size???

Next wil be to plumb up the live well. Any pointers or ideas about the location of the pickup and overflow would be helpful..

I am going to use it to fish in and around the Myall Lakes, Manning River, Harrington etc. so should be fun. Well occasionally use it in Sydney Harbour..

[m_a-wright]

Hi Terry,

I modified the front anchor well into a livewell. I used the hansen tank tittings for the through hull fittings as they have a rubber seal and are made from glass rienforced nylon. (Silicon adheres well to this not like poly) They also have an internal thread so you can block them off if you want to. I used the marine 290 sikaflex on these fittings. I also attached ball valves to the thru hull fittings so that you can isolate in case there is a fault in the pump and you dont flood the boat. Make sure that the height of the pump is below the water line so you dont get air pockets and it makes the pump self priming. Also ensure that the drain line is larger than the inlet line so the tank will drain properly but be aware that if you do not isolate the tank when on the plane that the water in the tank will be sucked out (Good reason for isolating the inlet and outlet lines with a ball valve). I also run a larger hose out the side of the tank as an emergency overflow if the other drain line gets blocked. I mounted the pump on a individual ally plate and used union joints and hard piping to connect between the ball valves. This was because i had heaps of trouble with the spiral hose tube that i was recommended and could not get it to seal properly (the pipe had a white inner spiral on the inside) i had to take the floor up twice to run new hose. Depending on how much money you want to spend the flowrite brand is really good and the valves can be operated electronically but it depends on your budget. I purchased my fittings from a pump irrigation supplier and the pump i used was the johnson low profile (purchased from BCF). I can post some photos if you need any further info. Hope this helps,

Regards,

Mark.

[Terry]

Thanks Mark, that would be very helpful. You have given some great hints and if possible I would like to see what you have done. The bit that concerns me is getting the various inlet/outlet holes drilled at the right height/location in the hull. How do you work that out? Do you need to put the boat in the water to mark the water line or is that known and can be used? Cheers, Terry

Hi Terry,

I modified the front anchor well into a livewell. I used the hansen tank tittings for the through hull fittings as they have a rubber seal and are made from glass rienforced nylon. (Silicon adheres well to this not like poly) They also have an internal thread so you can block them off if you want to. I used the marine 290 sikaflex on these fittings. I also attached ball valves to the thru hull fittings so that you can isolate in case there is a fault in the pump and you dont flood the boat. Make sure that the height of the pump is below the water line so you dont get air pockets and it makes the pump self priming. Also ensure that the drain line is larger than the inlet line so the tank will drain properly but be aware that if you do not isolate the tank when on the plane that the water in the tank will be sucked out (Good reason for isolating the inlet and outlet lines with a ball valve). I also run a larger hose out the side of the tank as an emergency overflow if the other drain line gets blocked. I mounted the pump on a individual ally plate and used union joints and hard piping to connect between the ball valves. This was because i had heaps of trouble with the spiral hose tube that i was recommended and could not get it to seal properly (the pipe had a white inner spiral on the inside) i had to take the floor up twice to run new hose. Depending on how much money you want to spend the flowrite brand is really good and the valves can be operated electronically but it depends on your budget. I purchased my fittings from a pump irrigation supplier and the pump i used was the johnson low profile (purchased from BCF). I can post some photos if you need any further info. Hope this helps,

Regards,

Mark.

[m_a-wright]

Thanks Mark, that would be very helpful. You have given some great hints and if possible I would like to see what you have done. The bit that concerns me is getting the various inlet/outlet holes drilled at the right height/location in the hull. How do you work that out? Do you need to put the boat in the water to mark the water line or is that known and can be used? Cheers, Terry

Hi Terry,

Attached a few photos of the pump assemby we discussed. I have also included my wiring assembly for your reference being that you are fitting out your new purchase. I fitted a central fuse box in an IP 55 box(Not fully waterproof now being i have drilled holes in the side) that is incorporated into a dual battery system. It is wired to the switch panel on the console. This way each individual appliance is seperately fused and if you need to add extra accessories it is simple to run an extra cable. If a fuse blows it is easy to get to.I have found this to be very useful. Hope the pump assembly makes sense. As you can see i have hard plumbed the pump with rigid pipe to the ball valve incorporating unioun joints so in the event you have to change the pump or do maintenace you can undo the uniouns and lift the pump assy out, no fiddly pipe clamps to loosen. I am sure other members will have there own way of doing things but i have found this method to be effective. As mentioned in my prevoius post i modified the anchor well at the front of the boat into a livewell so if you adpot this idea you will have to run the pipes under the floor. If you need anymore info i am happy to help.

have fun,

Mark.

[Terry]

Thanks Mark. That looks very good, a nice job. I am assuming that the two taps shown are for the bait well. One inlet (strainer) and the other outlet? How did you do the bait well in terms of handling the height of water and then the overflow? Did you stand a pipe into the exit hole at the height you want and then just remove to empty?

With the bilge pump, where did you exit that?

Finally the taps and joints etc, can you please advise where you obtained those from?

Thanks Terry

Hi Terry,

Attached a few photos of the pump assemby we discussed. I have also included my wiring assembly for your reference being that you are fitting out your new purchase. I fitted a central fuse box in an IP 55 box(Not fully waterproof now being i have drilled holes in the side) that is incorporated into a dual battery system. It is wired to the switch panel on the console. This way each individual appliance is seperately fused and if you need to add extra accessories it is simple to run an extra cable. If a fuse blows it is easy to get to.I have found this to be very useful. Hope the pump assembly makes sense. As you can see i have hard plumbed the pump with rigid pipe to the ball valve incorporating unioun joints so in the event you have to change the pump or do maintenace you can undo the uniouns and lift the pump assy out, no fiddly pipe clamps to loosen. I am sure other members will have there own way of doing things but i have found this method to be effective. As mentioned in my prevoius post i modified the anchor well at the front of the boat into a livewell so if you adpot this idea you will have to run the pipes under the floor. If you need anymore info i am happy to help.

have fun,

Mark.

Edited May 10, 2011 by Terry

[m_a-wright]

Hi Terry,

To manage the height of the water in the livewell i did exactly as you mentioned. Rule sell a complete kit that includes the fitting and pipe but you can buy these seperatly if you want. It is basically a drain fitting with a pipe with a rubber seal. You can cut the length of the tube to determine the level you want the water to reach. This is why the outlet should be larger than the inlet so the the water drains out faster than you can fill it, having said that the inlet sprayer does not need to be fully open but that is why i installed a second overflow (32mm) out to the side just in case of blockages etc. The height of this i made slightly higher than the top of the upright tube When you want to drain the tank you just remove the pipe. The live well at the front should be higher than the outlet so that should give a natural fall and with the pressure of the water (Head) draining the tank should not be a problem. I also purchased the stand alone rule aerator that you can use to recirculate the water in the tank if the boat is out of the water. You can run that off a cigarette lighter socket (always pays to wire a few of those around the boat). Lastly in regards to height of the inlet and outlet fitting you can see that i was limited to where they can go but if your boat has already been in the water you will see a water line that will give you an indication of where the water line is. If not the manufacturer should be able to tell you what the displacement is or simply put it in the water and measure it. The bilge pump exits at the back side corner of the boat and the skin fittings, uniouns, hard piping are the Hansen brand (you can look this up on their website). These were purchased from an irrigation supplier. The website tells you where the stockists are so you should be able to find one near you if you decide to go with that brand. Hope this answers all your questions.

all the best,

Mark.

[Terry]

Hi, everyone will have their favourite and I have mine and why I choose to stock and sell Stacer. In the models you are comparing they are very similar and both are excellent boats but I prefer the Stacer layout with the better casting deck. To say one will ride better or be more stable that is not the case. As for comparing the Traveller to the Hornet, it is like comparing the Proline Angler to the Barra Elite, they are totally different boats and the Barra Elite and Hornet are superior in ride and almost as good in stability but they do cost more so is that extra cost worth it-only you can decide that. My advise is buy from a dealer that you trust and has been in business a long time and if that happens to be a Quintrex, I am sure you will enjoy it. If you contact me with what you want I can price up a Stacer with any technology outboard you like and I do have a 2010 Proline Angler here at the moment that is the side console version and has the engine upgraded and sits on the top of the line Stacer trailer, not a cheap aftermarket trailer that some dealers put these boats on.

Cheers,

Huey.

Thanks Huey. When I looked at the Stacer Proline 399 and the Quinnie Explorer Trophy I was a bit surprised that the Quinnie didn't seem to have as much storage space and I think you are right the Stacer does seem to have a better laid out casting platform. Anyway, hopefully I'll get a chance to fish with it soon and see how it goes. Cheers, Terry