Hammer n tongs Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I have had my quintrex for a little over a year now, it is a 530 top ender, purchased new from hunts marine in march 2010. Within six months I noticed unusual blistering in the hull, not worrying too much about it as cosmetically a fishing boat is made to be practical. The blistering is not major at this stage, but slowly getting worse. A few months back, May 2011 I noticed an issue when using the VHF, when the VHF was transmitting the sounder which is a hds5 will dim to the point of resetting itself if transmit was held long enough, the Stereo will also reset. After some investigation thinking I had a problem with my new 1KW transducer, and VHF Radio, I had Disconnected the Sounder, and still had a problem when using VHF, stereo would cut out. Then Disconnected the negative terminal of the VHF and thats when I was puzzled that it was still on! it stayed on with only the positive terminal connected! I then disconnected the antenna and thats when the VHF turned off, so i figured the hull was earthed. Being P!@@#$ Off! went to Hunts Marine and spoke to the service department about the issue with the hull being earthed, they told me that the boat was out of warranty (I was only two months out) and told me to replace the VHF. and the fact that the hull was earthed is normal to them. I went back to the boat and noticed that the negative terminals coming from both batteries was bolted straight onto the hull without an insulated block, so I took that off thinking it will resolve the issue, but tests with multi metre and using VHF showed no solution. I then gave up I am pissed off with Hunts Marine and Quintrex and don't want to go back to them to sort it out, they won't acknowledge the issue without charging an arm and a leg to have a look at a problem that has been there from day one. I need some advice on sorting this issue out, and would like to know if this is common and do i have something to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musty Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I have had my quintrex for a little over a year now, it is a 530 top ender, purchased new from hunts marine in march 2010. Within six months I noticed unusual blistering in the hull, not worrying too much about it as cosmetically a fishing boat is made to be practical. The blistering is not major at this stage, but slowly getting worse. A few months back, May 2011 I noticed an issue when using the VHF, when the VHF was transmitting the sounder which is a hds5 will dim to the point of resetting itself if transmit was held long enough, the Stereo will also reset. After some investigation thinking I had a problem with my new 1KW transducer, and VHF Radio, I had Disconnected the Sounder, and still had a problem when using VHF, stereo would cut out. Then Disconnected the negative terminal of the VHF and thats when I was puzzled that it was still on! it stayed on with only the positive terminal connected! I then disconnected the antenna and thats when the VHF turned off, so i figured the hull was earthed. Being P!@@#$ Off! went to Hunts Marine and spoke to the service department about the issue with the hull being earthed, they told me that the boat was out of warranty (I was only two months out) and told me to replace the VHF. and the fact that the hull was earthed is normal to them. I went back to the boat and noticed that the negative terminals coming from both batteries was bolted straight onto the hull without an insulated block, so I took that off thinking it will resolve the issue, but tests with multi metre and using VHF showed no solution. I then gave up I am pissed off with Hunts Marine and Quintrex and don't want to go back to them to sort it out, they won't acknowledge the issue without charging an arm and a leg to have a look at a problem that has been there from day one. I need some advice on sorting this issue out, and would like to know if this is common and do i have something to worry about. Sounds like you have some major electrolysis issues. Thats some shit service dude Whats the point of buying a new boat under warranty if your going to have to deal with that rubbish... Mate I'd go straight back to the dealer and be firm. Let the issue be known and make it clear that its been that way from the start. If the bloke wants to do right by his customers he will take the time to sort it out and make it right. If not then its to his own detriment. But be firm, the customer must come 1st. If that fails- Ask Huey, his service may not be under warranty, his workshop might not be close by, but from all accounts he will help you, make it right, give sound advice and you'll be looked after. At least you will then have piece of mind. Thats what you want! Musty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest twitchie(U-Make-Em ) Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi I have a 435 Quintrex hornet trophy i have had trouble with the electrics from new radio does not work on some days it will flatten battery's when using bait tank over all i am going to get an auto electrician to pull all the wiring out and start again mine is well out of warranty.they are badly fitted from the factory . There paint work is bad as well you only have to touch it an it peals .if your boat is only a few months out of warranty ring Quintrex and see what they will do for you . You don't have to take no for an answer. there are plenty of formats in which to get results from poor workmanship .The squeaky wheel always gets the oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer n tongs Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Thanks Guys, I got someone that may be willing to help, if that dosent help I'll have to go back, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helliconia Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) If you can get hold of a copy of AS/NZ 3004 it may tell you what the standard is for wiring earths on recreational vessels. This standard was developed/updated in 2007 and covers marinas and recreational vessels with low voltage wiring (<50v). If they've broken the standard you'd have grounds for a complaint with fair trading under the fit for purpose provisions. From a practical standard point if it is common knowledge that this wiring configuration causes electrolysis then I would try them anyway. My Brooker was wired out of the factory with positive and negative bus bars and nothing is earthed to the hull. If this action is particular to the dealer and Quintrex doesn't do the wiring then I'd lodge a complaint also with Quintrex. Often manufacturers will be willing to fix it to preserve their reputation and may even discipline the dealer if they are bringing the brand into disrepute. Edited December 7, 2011 by EmptyHooks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike82 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I have a 2005 Quintrex 455 coast runner which I bought new. Shortly after purchase I fitted a 2nd battery and new isolator switch and I had the same deal, all earth wires bolted to the hull. After now working on quite a few Quintrex and other brands of alloy hulls they are all the same. Unfortunately just moving these wires to an insulated distribution block will not solve the issue as the main earth lead runs to the engine block for the starter and the engine is bolted to the hull with metal bolts, therefore the hull will always be "earthed" unless you somehow insulated the engine entirely from the hull. In this case with the negative terminal on your vhf disconnected and your antenna cable connected it will still work due to the unit earthing through the shielding in the co-ax antenna cable, this in not an indication of a faulty unit. As for it almost cutting the radio and sounder out, thoroughly check your main battery feed to the front of the boat and all fuse holders for corrosion as well as all earths from back to front of the boat. Good luck and yes my paint and wiring is as poor quality as every other quinny and is blistering around all stainless fittings that were dealer fitted. I think this is the norm from 90% of dealers just slapping them together for a profit. Not having to be a qualified Auto Electrician to wire a boat for sale, does explain a lot of wiring that I have seen over the years...... But some are better than others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer n tongs Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Thanks Champ Quintrex do have great hulls and that's about it. They will be receiving a call from me again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishingrod Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 If it was my boat, I would lift (disconnect) all the wiring which is deliberately connected to the hull. You may need to install negative wiring to things such as your radio, sounder, lights etc. (I dont know if yours were relying on the negative circuit to come thru the hull or not). Then install a on/off battery isolation switch on the main negative lead to the battery. (not sure if you have dual batteries, either way its still do-able). Switch it off when the boat isnt in use. Then the hull and engine are totally isolated from your battery's negative terminal when the boat isnt in use. The hull and engine will still be connected together via the mounting bolts, but as far as I know its the added reaction of having the negative battey terminal on the hull which increases the onset of corrosion. Most telwater boats of that size Ive seen already have a isolation switch factory fitted on the positive terminal that you should also switch off when not in use. My opinion. cheers Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer n tongs Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 I currently have two batteries with an isolation switch, all the negative current comes from the wiring and not the hull, but the hull is somehow connected to the negative terminal, I have done some investigation and think (not shure) that the motoris bolted to the hull, and the motor body is connected to the negative, and there is a link between the motor and hull. At the moment I have been turning off the isolation switch, but that disconnects the positive terminals only, is that sufficient or shall I run a second switch for the negative. Another thing a mate told me is that I'm missing a insulating mounting plate that is supposed to be in between the motor and hull, could that be the problem, as everything else seems ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hi, we fit an isolating backing board between the new Stacers and engines we rig and it should be done on all boats, but some companies cut corners and you get what you pay for in life. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishingrod Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 ........ or shall I run a second switch for the negative ......... Yep. Re-read my last post. Thats what I would be doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 i have a 420 quinnie fish seeker from hunts also ,the paint is bubbled up around all the the fittings as well . is this just the norm for all alloy boats or a slap stick pump them out as fast as you can job by the dealer ? my boats only 6 years old but the paints been like this for o fair while . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brickman Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 i think you'll fine the boats are painted before all the fittings are fixed if there slack they don't prime and paint the drilled holes and over time salt gets under the paint and bubbles it up the only way to stop this is strip off all the fittings and respray the damaged areas and silafex all the fitting before you replace them cheers gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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