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Posted (edited)

Thought I might make use of the new "kayak crew" forum and ask a question to those who own a pro angler. How do you transport it? I put it on the roof racks as opposed to a trailer but it really is a two man job. I can't always rely on someone else helping me get it off. So, has anyone found a good way to put it on/off? I have a rack and roll system which is meant to help but doesn't work too well on my car...

Any advice or other ways of doing it would be great :thumbup:

Great Idea on making this kayak forum mods

Cheers, Tom

Edited by mulloway man
Posted (edited)

Tom

I have it on roof racks as well as I'm limited with storage living in an apartment complex.

I have been placing an exercise/yoga mat or towel on the back of the car, putting the front of the yak on it and then pushing it up to the roof rack. Admittedly, my car is quite old and therefore I'm not too concerned about small scratches and stuff. The problem I have is the back of the car has a small spoiler on it which isn't very strong and won't last very long so I have ordered a Rack n Roll bar as well.

A.Dawg does the same for his PA 14.

The other option if you have a tow bar/ball is to get one of those T-loaders by Rhino (or similar product). They are a bit pricier but should be less effort.

Cheers

Paul

Edited by Paul
Posted

Tom

I have it on roof racks as well as I'm limited with storage living in an apartment complex.

I have been placing an exercise/yoga mat or towel on the back of the car, putting the front of the yak on it and then pushing it up to the roof rack. Admittedly, my car is quite old and therefore I'm not too concerned about small scratches and stuff. The problem I have is the back of the car has a small spoiler on it which isn't very strong and won't last very long so I have ordered a Rack n Roll bar as well.

A.Dawg does the same for his PA 14.

The other option if you have a tow bar/ball is to get one of those T-loaders by Rhino (or similar product). They are a bit pricier but should be less effort.

Cheers

Paul

I think I will get the rack and roll system as well as its really hard to do the current method hen he road is slanted in other words boat ramp

Posted

The old fella who camped with me at Lake Mulwala last weekend had 2 aluminium 'square channel' poles made up that had 'flattened bits' at each end. The top 'channel' bits fitted onto the edge of his 2 roof racks & were tied on. The other end had 2 flattened bits to form feet that were on the ground. He had basically created 2 'ramps' and he just pushed the yak sideways up the 'ramp' & onto the roof racks. Then he undid the ramp bits at the top & laid the 'ramps' beside the hull, tied everything down securely & he was ready to leave.

Obviously, the longer the poles, the slighter the incline that you have to push the yak up.

You just need to have the side access to do it, ie about the space of a single car park available next to the car - or just drive the car somewhere close to the yak so that you have space to set it up.

His was a PA12 - but it should work with a PA14 or any of the bigger yaks.

cheers

Roberta

Many Others have had small trailers made up for them, as they really are quite large yaks.

Posted

Thanks guys!

Much appreciated.

I'll try a few of these ideas and see what works for me. Not much fun lifting a 50kg+ yak with a fractured vertebrae :thumbdown:

Cheers, Tom

Posted

Hi guys just wandering how much would i be looking at for one of these hobie pros ?

and how much do they weigh?

and how are they getn off and off the car with just one person?

oh and where do you get them from?

and are they the ones with the pedal powered propulsion ( lol try sayin that 10 times real quick)

sorry bout all the questions but just sold my 4th boat and wouldnt mind trying something a lil differant

cheers

Posted

how much would i be looking at for one of these hobie pros ?

New with all the goodies will be in the 3k mark. Used (with all the goodies) probably from 2k up depending on condition

and how much do they weigh?

HEAVY. 40kg + your addons

and how are they getn off and off the car with just one person?

Depends on your strength & height of your car. The bars mentioned above really helped the old fella get his onto his car. You can put a suction bar on the rear window to help guide it up too. Some put them on the bonnet & put it up that way. You can only work it out once you've got it. They are not really offshore yaks - tho some do go offshore. I would NEVER recommend anyone go as far out in one as the other 'sit on' yaks go

oh and where do you get them from?

Google Hobie dealers

and are they the ones with the pedal powered propulsion

Yes

...wouldnt mind trying something a lil differant....

Some of the dealers will have 'trial' days - it is essential that you try before you buy! Make sure that you can load & unload it on your own, or you will be stuffed! PAs can be a bit of a beast. Check out the Outbacks & Revos as well. They cost less & are easier to load.

cheers

Roberta

Posted

Hi guys just wandering how much would i be looking at for one of these hobie pros ?

and how much do they weigh?

and how are they getn off and off the car with just one person?

oh and where do you get them from?

and are they the ones with the pedal powered propulsion ( lol try sayin that 10 times real quick)

sorry bout all the questions but just sold my 4th boat and wouldnt mind trying something a lil differant

cheers

Hey Fishon

You're looking around the $3100-$3600 just for the kayak itself brand new. That's the old PA14, the PA12 and the new 2013 PA14. They use the MirageDrive which is a pedalled fin propulsion system. The PA12 is 45kg unrigged and the PA14s are about 5-10kg heavier. The costs can easily blow out of proportion once you factor in the accessories for logistics and other things like fishfinding kit, anchor systems, beach carts, safety flags, livewells etc. Work out exactly what it is that you NEED and set yourself a budget. If you have the cash upfront, it could work out to buy cheaper second hand from Gumtree or E-Bay. Buying from the shops might give you finance options though. You'll be lucky to find the new PA14s second hand just yet as they've though only entered the market.

If you have the space and the cash, then a trailer would be the easiest for logistics. Alternatively roof racks are the more common and popular option and can be a bit of a mission depending on circumstances. I find it easier going with other yakkers, but sometimes that's not always viable as Tom can attest to.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy the sport as much I am :yahoo:

Cheers

Paul

Posted

Hi guys just wandering how much would i be looking at for one of these hobie pros ?

and how much do they weigh?

and how are they getn off and off the car with just one person?

oh and where do you get them from?

and are they the ones with the pedal powered propulsion ( lol try sayin that 10 times real quick)

sorry bout all the questions but just sold my 4th boat and wouldnt mind trying something a lil differant

cheers

Hi Fishon,

Both Paul and Roberta have answered your questions really well.

I got mine new for $3350. This was only for the kayak, not any extras. Including the extras (livewell, sounder, batteries, Rod holder mounts, etc...) it added up to around $4k. Not cheap, but the place i got it from are great and gave me plenty of discounts which was great. Yesterday i took it in as i was having problems with the sounder connection etc.. and they fixed it in 15 mins for free. I'll PM the place.

They weigh A LOT. Mine fully rigged is easily over 50kg... That's the one complication with these yaks. Unless you get a small trailer for them, they are quite hard to get on and off the roof racks... So in other words, you'd struggle at first to do it yourself but others have found ways to do it by themselves. Like suggested earlier in the thread, slide it on from the back using a towel or mat to cover the back of the car.

Overall, a great fishing machine, very stable and a great alternative to a boat. No fuel fees!! :biggrin2:

I'll shoot you a quick PM of where to get them from..

Cheers, Tom

Posted

Just don't forget hobie USA have increased there prices so they are now 3499 and the 14 for 3599

Rigged and ready will cost you around 4 k depending on how much you want to get on it.

You king find a second hand one between 2.2k and 3 k they tend to keep there price pretty well

Alan

Posted

Thanks for all the replies guys something im definately going to look into

those trial days sound good id hate to get one n regret it

cheers

Posted (edited)

he, he, it shows that I am out of touch with prices these days!! I bought my Sport for $1500 including fish finder, life vest, dry bags, anchor & other stuff ........ and still love it!! You can still find used Revos & Outbacks for less than $2000, depending on the 'add ons'.

That was about 5-6 years ago!!

I actually won a PA14 just over 2 years ago & due to circumstances at the time, I had to sell it (tho in trying one out over 3 days of the ABT Hobie Yak Grand Final, I couldn't even pull it out of the water!!) so the decision was made to sell it - and a buddy in Canberra bought it for $2700, brand new & unused!! Bargain!

Factor in another $1500-2000 for a trailer too, plus rego, insurance,etc as well, if you want to go that way. I don't believe those little 'folding travel boat trailers' are really up to it if travelling big distances, tho I have seen some on the road, hurtling along at 100kph +! wacko.gif

Storing them can be a problem too, due to their size, whereas the Revo & Outback can usually be stored in the garage alongside a wall or suspended from the ceiling etc

Just make sure you really get the measurements etc before committing to the buy one - and test drive one (or any yak that you are contemplating buying) as you may be unhappy to get it home & find that you have nowhere to put it!!

With all my gear on it, even my Sport is heavy for me to lift into the campervan (when travelling alone, it sleeps on the bed next to me! 074.gif) I will put in a smaller battery for the fish finder, as the 7ah one is just too heavy! I'll try & find a smaller one - some people even just use 4 x AA batteries but obviously, they don't last as long as the bigger batteries. I've never had it run out on me yet tho!

There is no reason why you couldn't fit some sort of pulley system to assist pulling up the yak from the rear (or front depending on where your support bars are)......... a bit of ingenuity on the bull bar (or tow bar may work if you pull the yak up from the front.) Do you already have a towing mechanism on the front of your 4wd? I could just need a pulley fitted to the top of the bull bar (and another one possibly on the first roof rack) to assist in the pulling? Once on the rear rack, it should be easier to get it forward to the other roof rack. I had considered fitting one onto our trailer for when both of us travel & we have to get it up there. I tend not to dismantle my yak when travelling, just covering it with a good solid tarp that is tied down well to keep all the bits on!! biggrin2.gif

Check out these youtube videos re loading PAs - you may find a method that suits you

http://www.youtube.c...c.1.2ibsOkM9UPA

Make your own livewell from an esky - you can get 30L plus for less than $60 by shopping around & then just add a bilge pump. The Hobie ones can be annoying to kick start ....... and cost a bomb!

Make your rod holders out of downpipe. Just as good a the Hobie ones & often at no cost (offcuts from building sites.)

Many PA14 people have 'downgraded' to the PA12s, so there should be some PA14s out on the 2nd hand market. They DO hold their value tho, so it depends on how quickly the seller needs to get rid of it (usually to fund the new one!) as to the price you will get it for.

Good luck

Roberta

Edited by Roberta
Posted

he, he, it shows that I am out of touch with prices these days!! I bought my Sport for $1500 including fish finder, life vest, dry bags, anchor & other stuff ........ and still love it!! You can still find used Revos & Outbacks for less than $2000, depending on the 'add ons'.

I actually won a PA14 just over 2 years ago & due to circumstances at the time, I had to sell it (tho in trying one out over 3 days of the ABT Hobie Yak Grand Final, I couldn't even pull it out of the water!!) so the decision was made to sell it - and a buddy in Canberra bought it for $2700, brand new & unused!! Bargain!

Factor in another $1500-2000 for a trailer too, plus rego, insurance,etc as well, if you want to go that way. I don't believe those little 'folding travel boat trailers' are really up to it if travelling big distances, tho I have seen some on the road, hurtling along at 100kph +! wacko.gif

Storing them can be a problem too, due to their size, whereas the Revo & Outback can usually be stored in the garage alongside a wall or suspended from the ceiling etc

Just make sure you really get the measurements etc before committing to the buy one - and test drive one (or any yak that you are contemplating buying) as you may be unhappy to get it home & find that you have nowhere to put it!!

With all my gear on it, even my Sport is heavy for me to lift into the campervan (when travelling alone, it sleeps on the bed next to me! 074.gif) I will put in a smaller battery for the fish finder, as the 7ah one is just too heavy! I'll try & find a smaller one - some people even just use 4 x AA batteries but obviously, they don't last as long as the bigger batteries. I've never had it run out on me yet tho!

There is no reason why you couldn't fit some sort of pulley system to assist pulling up the yak from the rear (or front depending on where your support bars are)......... a bit of ingenuity on the bull bar (or tow bar may work if you pull the yak up from the front.) Do you already have a towing mechanism on the front of your 4wd? I could just need a pulley fitted to the top of the bull bar (and another one possibly on the first roof rack) to assist in the pulling? Once on the rear rack, it should be easier to get it forward to the other roof rack. I had considered fitting one onto our trailer for when both of us travel & we have to get it up there. I tend not to dismantle my yak when travelling, just covering it with a good solid tarp that is tied down well to keep all the bits on!! biggrin2.gif

Check out these youtube videos re loading PAs - you may find a method that suits you

http://www.youtube.c...c.1.2ibsOkM9UPA

Make your own livewell from an esky - you can get 30L plus for less than $60 by shopping around & then just add a bilge pump. The Hobie ones can be annoying to kick start ....... and cost a bomb!

Make your rod holders out of downpipe. Just as good a the Hobie ones & often at no cost (offcuts from building sites.)

Many PA14 people have 'downgraded' to the PA12s, so there should be some PA14s out on the 2nd hand market. They DO hold their value tho, so it depends on how quickly the seller needs to get rid of it (usually to fund the new one!) as to the price you will get it for.

Good luck

Roberta

Great info Roberta :thumbup:

Do you have an anchor system on your yak? I'm looking at getting one but don't want to sacrifice room on the yak for ropes etc...

Cheers, Tom

Posted

Tom you won't be sacrificing any room t all.

Don't forget at the back of your yak is a hatch with a box inside leave the anchor with rope wrapped around a pool noodle inside here's and the anchor trolley system is unnoticeable Im heading out tonight with Paul again and will try remember to get a few extra photos .

Hopefully there will also be a report on Paul's first Jewwy hehe.

I'm 172cm short and fat and still able to drag the pa out of the sand no problem.

If you are really really small and skinny to the bone you will have problems moving the pa around.

If there are ways for you to get around the weight issue trust me there is no more comfortable yak to fish from.

Alan

Posted

Tom you won't be sacrificing any room t all.

Don't forget at the back of your yak is a hatch with a box inside leave the anchor with rope wrapped around a pool noodle inside here's and the anchor trolley system is unnoticeable Im heading out tonight with Paul again and will try remember to get a few extra photos .

Hopefully there will also be a report on Paul's first Jewwy hehe.

I'm 172cm short and fat and still able to drag the pa out of the sand no problem.

If you are really really small and skinny to the bone you will have problems moving the pa around.

If there are ways for you to get around the weight issue trust me there is no more comfortable yak to fish from.

Alan

Thanks Alan,

You're talking about the black rudder control box right? Unless the 14 has an extra storage area?

Good luck on the jews..

Cheers, Tom

Posted

....Do you have an anchor system on your yak?....

Hi Tom

I do have an anchor trolley on the R/H side of my yak - but in the estuaries & dams, I don't usually take the anchor out!! I am more likely to use a drogue, tho, to slow my drift in a strong breeze. I just clip the drogue onto the anchor trolley & bingo - I slow down! Some people just take a small 'dumbell' weighing between 1-2kg (instead of an anchor) & tie it to a 'handle' that is secured to the yak (with a float on it) so that if you have to ditch the anchor to fight a fish, you can find it again later, via the float & pick it up! Same idea with the drogue too. I am convinced that I lost my big snapper (busted off in NZ) due to it fighting me, the weight of the yak & also the weight of the drogue. It didn't have a float on it. Later, I found out that I should have ditched the drogue & fought the fish on it's own, just me & the yak. I was holding the rod with both hands as it dragged me out to sea, until the braid finally busted! huh.gif

My current drogue

post-2231-014986100 1354850875_thumb.jpg

The Kiwi one I was using (with no float) - this would stop a boat!! The mouth of it was about 1m wide!! 1yikes.gif

post-2231-001656100 1354851124_thumb.jpg

Some of the Kiwis anchored up offshore - but I am not that keen, in case a big wave swamps you unexpectedly! Drifting is the way to go - you are covering new territory all the time, too.

With the Hobie being a 'hands free' yak (ie no need to paddle unless you have gear failure) - I just use the rudder system to hold my position around structure & also to power away with a strong fish that is trying to get back to it!! I just make sure that I have the rudder facing in the 'escape' route as I drift past the structure, as some fish, you need both hands to hang onto whilst pedalling away!! You really just can't do that in a 'paddle only yak'!

cheers

Roberta

Posted (edited)

Thanks Alan,

You're talking about the black rudder control box right? Unless the 14 has an extra storage area?

Good luck on the jews..

Cheers, Tom

I think Alan is talking about the back hatch where the safety kit goes.

For the PAs you can set up the trolley kit on either side and go full length or half length (mid to back or mid to front) depending on your preference. This is for the most part a permanent fixture you'd set up once in your garage/shed/workshop unless you have a good reason to change it.

The anchorage options available to attach to the rings of the trolley kit are either drift chute, stake-out pole or anchor itself. I find the PAs have sufficient room for all 3 but I avoid an anchor like the plague if I can unless I feel like pulling up some more tyres :074:. I will normally keep it in the case that it comes in and store it in one of the hatches until required.

Edited by Paul
Posted

....Do you have an anchor system on your yak?....

Hi Tom

I do have an anchor trolley on the R/H side of my yak - but in the estuaries & dams, I don't usually take the anchor out!! I am more likely to use a drogue, tho, to slow my drift in a strong breeze. I just clip the drogue onto the anchor trolley & bingo - I slow down! Some people just take a small 'dumbell' weighing between 1-2kg (instead of an anchor) & tie it to a 'handle' that is secured to the yak (with a float on it) so that if you have to ditch the anchor to fight a fish, you can find it again later, via the float & pick it up! Same idea with the drogue too. I am convinced that I lost my big snapper (busted off in NZ) due to it fighting me, the weight of the yak & also the weight of the drogue. It didn't have a float on it. Later, I found out that I should have ditched the drogue & fought the fish on it's own, just me & the yak. I was holding the rod with both hands as it dragged me out to sea, until the braid finally busted! huh.gif

My current drogue

post-2231-014986100 1354850875_thumb.jpg

The Kiwi one I was using (with no float) - this would stop a boat!! The mouth of it was about 1m wide!! 1yikes.gif

post-2231-001656100 1354851124_thumb.jpg

Some of the Kiwis anchored up offshore - but I am not that keen, in case a big wave swamps you unexpectedly! Drifting is the way to go - you are covering new territory all the time, too.

With the Hobie being a 'hands free' yak (ie no need to paddle unless you have gear failure) - I just use the rudder system to hold my position around structure & also to power away with a strong fish that is trying to get back to it!! I just make sure that I have the rudder facing in the 'escape' route as I drift past the structure, as some fish, you need both hands to hang onto whilst pedalling away!! You really just can't do that in a 'paddle only yak'!

cheers

Roberta

Thanks for that Roberta,

Sounds like a good alternative!

I think Alan is talking about the back hatch where the safety kit goes.

For the PAs you can set up the trolley kit on either side and go full length or half length (mid to back or mid to front) depending on your preference. This is for the most part a permanent fixture you'd set up once in your garage/shed/workshop unless you have a good reason to change it.

The anchorage options available to attach to the rings of the trolley kit are either drift chute, stake-out pole or anchor itself. I find the PAs have sufficient room for all 3 but I avoid an anchor like the plague if I can unless I feel like pulling up some more tyres :074:. I will normally keep it in the case that it comes in and store it in one of the hatches until required.

Ah yeah, i know the hatch... Forgot it existed as i haven't used it so far...

I might head up to where i got the yak and see what they can do for me.

In the mean time i might just drop a few big weights down to act as an anchor (although i'll probably end up drifting if its not heavy enough...

Posted (edited)

My buddy who landed the biggest cod in our yak team at Mulwala has a front attachment for a 'weight/anchor' - where he can deploy it easily from his seat - I am not sure if he uses a separate anchor for the side or rear. He just uses some heavy weight for it (possibly from a Weight Set, as you can see in this pic.) At least you are then facing the waves & not likely to get swamped. When anchoring, you must always be aware of rising tides too & the need to lengthen the rope if required (more so the further north you get, where they can have MONSTER tides that rise a lot faster than ours down here.) He just uses a clamp near the seat to hold the weight in position, whether down or up. He usually fishes the Illawarra area.

post-2231-026234900 1354854625_thumb.jpg

I am highly unlikely to ever anchor from the rear as it can just be too dangerous - even if a boat goes past causing a big bow wave - it could swamp you. The front hatch of the PAs are NOT waterproof yet from the factory (unless it has been rectified recently), unless YOU add a rubber seal/grommet around the lower hatch edge, so that it meets flush with the lid when under pressure by the tie downs/bungee.

Oh yeah, & when I said I use the rudder in the current - I should have said that I use both rudder & pedals to maintain my position against the current & near the structure. Good exercise, too.! biggrin2.gif Going nowhere fast, I call it! 074.gif

On the Sport, I just have a pulley that I attached to the front & rear handles with a shackle ....... and rope joining the 2 at a double unit knot, with one bit 'overhanging' with a loop on it, both for the anchor or the drogue. That meant 2 less holes to drill into the yak! thumbup.gif The ropes go around the front rod holder & the rear rodholder, keeping them on the right side of the yak for easy deployment anywhere from the front to the rear (for the rear, I would only use the drogue, not the anchor.)

As you drift, just adjusting the rudder will get you going left or right, as your little heart desires! yahoo.gif No effort required! thumbup.gif

cheers

Roberta

Edited by Roberta
Posted

Suprised no one has invented a ratchet winch system to load a Kayak onto the roof racks.

Couple of foam noodles at the back of the car to act as guides/cushions to prevent scratches. A cable that looops around a wheel/guide on the front bar leading to the rear where you can hook it up to a winch and winch away.

Or have a pulley system with a ratchet wheel locked to the front bar, rope leading to the Yak, pull or use your body weight to heave the Yak onto the bars.

Shame i don't have a Yak yet to play around with some designs, the :wife: has yet to agree :1badmood:

Posted

Suprised no one has invented a ratchet winch system to load a Kayak onto the roof racks.

Couple of foam noodles at the back of the car to act as guides/cushions to prevent scratches. A cable that looops around a wheel/guide on the front bar leading to the rear where you can hook it up to a winch and winch away.

Or have a pulley system with a ratchet wheel locked to the front bar, rope leading to the Yak, pull or use your body weight to heave the Yak onto the bars.

Shame i don't have a Yak yet to play around with some designs, the :wife: has yet to agree :1badmood:

They are heavy yaks but not that heavy. Adding a winch n all will just add more trouble washing and money.

Posted

.....Suprised no one has invented a ratchet winch system....

12v would be better!! ;)

Roberta

Surprising enough i did a bit of research and it looks like i can pick up a 12v winch that can sit on a towball with a remote for $50. Has 9 meters of aircraft wire and can pull 2 tonnes and it has an internal battery in case the care has a flat and has a manual winch also. 1 of them babies with a make shift landing strip made out of those foam swimming noodles and you have yourself a Kayak Car Loader.

I'd probably make it so the winch can be locked to the ground via your foot, so you can lift the tail end of the yak to help it go up on the roof, or using an earth stake.

Can't wait to get my own Yak to try it out....it'll save me from slipping a disc in my already bad back :yahoo:

Posted

Surprising enough i did a bit of research and it looks like i can pick up a 12v winch that can sit on a towball with a remote for $50. Has 9 meters of aircraft wire and can pull 2 tonnes and it has an internal battery in case the care has a flat and has a manual winch also. 1 of them babies with a make shift landing strip made out of those foam swimming noodles and you have yourself a Kayak Car Loader.

I'd probably make it so the winch can be locked to the ground via your foot, so you can lift the tail end of the yak to help it go up on the roof, or using an earth stake.

Can't wait to get my own Yak to try it out....it'll save me from slipping a disc in my already bad back :yahoo:

I'm keen to see the results if it's a PA as they're in a weight class of their own.

I could imagine the winch system working well loading a PA onto the roof, but curious how to control the weight coming down to unload it.

Posted

Darn it - I've now got a stuffed shoulder (the one I use to lift the rear of my yak up above the back of the ute, so that I can shut the tail gate!!mad3.gif I have no problem getting it onto the ute, just lifting the rear of it to shut the gate!)

So now i'm just looking at something to lift the rear of the yak up - so I'll be looking at some sort of winch setup too!wacko.gif

Roberta

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