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Issues with new fishfinder


garfield28

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Hi all,

I have recently installed a new Lowrance Elite 7 with Chirp, and I'm having a few issues with it.

The main issues are, a lot of lines/interference looking with just heaps of lines or patches of the screen is missing. Another is at speed and even when not going that fast I get a depth reading of 0.0 flashing on the screen.

I have attached a few pics of where I mounted the transducer, if anyone with experience can maybe judge from the pics if my location isn't a good spot. I do notice when I am up and going that there seems to be a big spray coming out the back of the boat from the area where my transducer is, but because of the shape of my transom I cannot really stick my head over the side to clarify if it is.

Any suggestions or advice much appreciated.

Thanks
Geoff

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Guest no one

I had a few issues with mine too, but once fitted on my new boat it was fine, could you get some pics of the lines?

When the boat is moving I'd imagine a lot of bubbles and wash would pass on the edge of the transducer due to the groove! Might need a bit of a move. But I'm no expert!

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I'd be inclined to agree about the water flow off the chine causing issues. Moving more to the centre line of the hull where there isthe least disturbance to the water may mske a difference. It may a l so reduce the spray your getting.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

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+1 on what's been said.

Your gonna get white water behind the strake (not convinced I've got the correct term here) do yourself a favour and stick a piece of chopping board on the transom so you can move the transducer around without worrying about drilling the glass.

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+1 on what's been said.

Your gonna get white water behind the strake (not convinced I've got the correct term here) do yourself a favour and stick a piece of chopping board on the transom so you can move the transducer around without worrying about drilling the glass.

Thanks for the replies boys.

NaCIH2OK9, mate when you say put some chopping board on the transom, what exactly do you mean mate?

I have attached 2 more pics of the whole back of the boat, if someone can please draw on one of them to point out where the best place might be to re-locate it to.

Thanks

Geoff

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I'd try moving it 3 inches to the right.

Cut a piece of kitchen chopping board and stick flex it to the transom. You can then play with the position and not worry anbout having to drill lots of holes in the transom 8de488857842bfd0a78cd4e14d3463bf.jpg

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Here's a diagram to help you with the transducers mounting position mate.I agree you'll get alot of turbulence where it's fitted.

Also ensure its not set to low or you'll get the dreaded rooster tail and have the correct tilt on it.

Cheers.post-20199-0-17040900-1436311971_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for that.

One more question though, if I put it 3 inches to the right of where it is now isn't the angle bad for it? I thought I should be looking for as flat an area as possible so that it gets a clean face of water going across the bottom of the transducer? I hope that makes sense

Thanks

Geoff

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You need to move it, you have turbulence from the lifting strake that is affecting performance. What about under the outboard pod?

If its spraying water lift it up.

Mount it horizontally, not on the same angle as the hull.

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You need to find the flattest part of your hull away from obstructions like planning strakes.

Once that location had been found this is what I do.

I grab a steel rule or strip of timber with a known flat edge and hold it flat up against the hull as a starting base to judge where the location of your transducers holes will be drilled/screwed.

Tip-if you look at your transducers mounting holes,they don't actually have holes,they have elongated slots.

They are there to give you adjustments up or down to maximise your transducers performance based on hull,weight and various other things.

Now keep that ruler flat against the hull with it protruding say 150mm out past the transom and place the transducer gently onto the top of the rule ensuring the face of the transducer is perfectly flat touching the rule.

Now with a felt tip pen it is very important to mark the position of the screws right at the bottom of those slots.

Remove the transducer,drill the mounting holes into the hull and install the transducers ensuring you give those holes a good squirt of sealant leaving those screws nipped up but not overly tight.

You should now have a transducer mounted with its face perfectly aligned with the bottom of the boat.(you don't want this).

The reason I told you to mark those holes at the very bottom of the slots is that you will always need to drop the transducer lower into the water from the level to the hull starting base we started with....this will give you maximum adjustment down into the water when you commence your trial runs once on the water.

Now with that same ruler touching the hull and protruding the transom,place it beside the transducer and drop the trailing edge slightly by a few degrees and tighten all bolts/screws.

It's time to go for a test drive and see if its performing correctly,if not lower it slightly and try again until you get proper performance.

A big culprit for what you describe is having the leading edge lower than the trailing edge especially at low speeds which can be rectified using what I described above if that's the case.

Thes things have helped me and i Hope this helps you or others that may be having issues with their sounders performance.

Cheers.post-20199-0-20283100-1436318494_thumb.jpgpost-20199-0-79394900-1436318520_thumb.jpgpost-20199-0-54725400-1436318547_thumb.jpg

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A breadboard question, what "glue" did you use to hold them on?

Silicone and SS screws?

Nice write up (again!) FAB1

Thanks mate.

In regards to the breadboard concept for those of you contemplating the idea at present or in the future,keep in mind that you need to fully seal around the perimeter of your chosen material well if fitting to a "Aluminium"hull to prevent the possibility of salt laden water from sitting between the board and the hull leading to salt eating its way through the transom long after the water has evaporated leaving a ever growing layer of caked on salt behind to do it's magic if it is not removed adequately each and every time after the boat hits the water.

If your observant around ramps you'll see all sorts of issues with people's boats/trailers that could have been at least minimised or prevented entirely just by exercising that brain of ours.

Sorry to rave on but we as a whole pay good money for our things and one would hope we'd like them to last the longest time we possibly can.

I saw this excact same thing on a friends old ally boat due incorrect sealing and the salt issue.

A section cut out of the transom and a new section welded in it's place was the cure for this overseen problem by a previous owner that could have been prevented by using a sealant such as sikaflex 291.

Tight lines and happy fishing all.

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The main issues are, a lot of lines/interference looking with just heaps of lines or patches of the screen is missing. Another is at speed and even when not going that fast I get a depth reading of 0.0 flashing on the screen.

The transducer does look out of place to get a good reading at speed but going by what you were saying, you are getting interference or a bad picture all the time.

How does the screen look when you are not moving? It should be working fine when not moving with the transducer in the location you have it in, in the pictures.

If its not then there may be another issue.

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When I was looking at a boat to purchase, the owner had a Haines 600F. He didn't know anything about sounders as he mounted it far right just off the swim platform, but because he didn't know if that was a good spot or not, he just used sikaflex and it stuck. I was surprised that was strong enough to hold it while testing the boat out at speed, but it worked. So no screw holes.

Just something to think about if you want to try different spots without holes.

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When I was looking at a boat to purchase, the owner had a Haines 600F. He didn't know anything about sounders as he mounted it far right just off the swim platform, but because he didn't know if that was a good spot or not, he just used sikaflex and it stuck. I was surprised that was strong enough to hold it while testing the boat out at speed, but it worked. So no screw holes.

Just something to think about if you want to try different spots without holes.

Thanks mate

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