garfield28 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 G'day Raiders, I need your opinions once again I'm thinking of having a crack at making a fiberglass bait board/live tank. I've done very limited fiberglass work and a little gelcoat repair, but seeing it won't be structural I'm thinking of having a go at making myself a bait board live tank like the attached picture. I think it's worth a go just to save money for a start, but strongly believe I could make it, but probably worry about how the gel coat would look in something with sharp corners not curves. I was thinking maybe make my box with 6mm ply and glass over it all, then make the lid/hatch glass that prior to attaching it to the box then glass over the corners to attach it with strength if that makes sense. I could then make a couple of angled pieces like angle channel and glass that to the side to attach bolts etc to the boat.... Hoping someone out there may have already had a go at it (successfully) and can advise on a few do's and a few don'ts. Once made I could install a bung and the plumbing. Thanks Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjbink Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) I'm doing a similar job at the moment (not a live bait tank). 6mm ply sounds right the fiberglass will add strength . You will need to make any holes you drill well protected from water as the wood will rot if exposed (to freshwater). Apart from that there are the usual precautions when fiberglassing eg PPE and adding the right amount of catalyst (it can actually catch fire if you use to much). Chopped strand matt is sold in weight rating. A light weight matt, eg 200-300g will go over corners much better than heavy matt. You will need a fair bit of spare time on you hands for a project like this. Most people who make their own usually just adapt an esky or suitable plastic container. Edited October 30, 2015 by billfisher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 I'm doing a similar job at the moment (not a live bait tank). 6mm ply sounds right the fiberglass will add strength . You will need to make any holes you drill well protected from water as the wood will rot if exposed (to freshwater). Apart from that there are the usual precautions when fiberglassing eg PPE and adding the right amount of catalyst (it can actually catch fire if you use to much). Chopped strand matt is sold in weight rating. A light weight matt, eg 200-300g will go over corners much better than heavy matt. You will need a fair bit of spare time on you hands for a project like this. Most people who make their own usually just adapt an esky or suitable plastic container. So where are you up to with yours billfisher - any pics? I'm keen to get it done, and would love one on my boat.... the prowave ones look tops but are exy, be interesting to get feedback on the prowave ones if someone has ever owned one. I wonder if they add unwanted weight to the back end of the boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjbink Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) So where are you up to with yours billfisher - any pics? I'm keen to get it done, and would love one on my boat.... the prowave ones look tops but are exy, be interesting to get feedback on the prowave ones if someone has ever owned one. I wonder if they add unwanted weight to the back end of the boat. Actually I am modifying my underfloor fuel tank compartment so that i can fit a plastic fuel tank. It has to be supported on all the under surfaces, so the principle is the same. i will be using 6mm ply then glassing over it to make a new compartment. I had to modify the lid to make it fit also (by removing some of the wooden stringers and then adding a few layers of glass for strength). One point with your job though is that polyester resin and flow coat is not very waterproof. You may want to consider epoxy based systems. You have to be careful that the resin is compatable with the matting or cloth too. Ie a lot of chopped strand types can only be used with polyester resin. Edited November 2, 2015 by billfisher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Actually I am modifying my underfloor fuel tank compartment so that i can fit a plastic fuel tank. It has to be supported on all the under surfaces, so the principle is the same. i will be using 6mm ply then glassing over it to make a new compartment. I had to modify the lid to make it fit also (by removing some of the wooden stringers and then adding a few layers of glass for strength). One point with your job though is that polyester resin and flow coat is not very waterproof. You may want to consider epoxy based systems. You have to be careful that the resin is compatable with the matting or cloth too. Ie a lot of chopped strand types can only be used with polyester resin. Thanks for the reply mate. I thought flow coat was OK for marine applications??? It would seem from what I have read on here and other forums, that it is used quite a fair bit on boats etc.... You sound like you've done this before Bill and know what you're talking about. Where would be a place you would recommend to buy the gear needed and a place where they can give help with any questions etc in Port Stephens - Newcastle area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Another thing while on flow coat, does anyone know why some people add talcon powder to gel coat for some applications? I don't know why and whether or not it effects the waterproofing of the gel coat if mixed?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjbink Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks for the reply mate. I thought flow coat was OK for marine applications??? It would seem from what I have read on here and other forums, that it is used quite a fair bit on boats etc.... You sound like you've done this before Bill and know what you're talking about. Where would be a place you would recommend to buy the gear needed and a place where they can give help with any questions etc in Port Stephens - Newcastle area? Flow coat is uses the same catalyst (MEKP) as polyester fiberglass resin and compatible with polyester resin. It is used to build boats because it is cheap and does a fair job, Epoxy resin is more waterproof and more adhesive so is very good for repairs but is more expensive. There is also vinyl resin which is between the other two types in properties and price. I'm not sure if there is a definitive answer on what to use, the cheaper polyester and flow coat will probably be OK, but you will want to give extra protection where you drill through the wood for bung holes etc.. If your keen you could ring International Paints or one of the fiberglass manufactures - they have technical service departments/ chemists that can be very helpful. Do you have a <> store in your area? That's where I get my materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks for that info Billfisher.... I do have a (()) near enough to me, they're pretty expensive aren't they? Have you built something out of fiberglass before mate, would love to see some pics of a project - either finished or in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Another thing while on flow coat, does anyone know why some people add talcon powder to gel coat for some applications? I don't know why and whether or not it effects the waterproofing of the gel coat if mixed?? Usally this is done only when you need to use it as a filler or for large cracks or chips ....Also if you need to use it to set your rubber gunwale onto your boat ... Edited November 3, 2015 by 4myson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjbink Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks for that info Billfisher.... I do have a Whitworths near enough to me, they're pretty expensive aren't they? Have you built something out of fiberglass before mate, would love to see some pics of a project - either finished or in the process. You can shop around if you like. I don't think you will much of a saving for a small job like that, especially if you use the cheaper polyester resin and chopped strand. I can take picks of my current job - it will take a while though as I am just doing a bit at a time and it's a time consuming job (the boat is still useable with carry tanks). The other jobs have involved reinforcing soft floors and hulls which were quite successful and saved heaps of money (fiberglass is very repairable). The last job I did was to make my own boat clears. The mobile trimmer wanted $300 for a small section and then failed to show up twice. It only cost me $60 for material from (()) and I have enough vinyl left over to do the job again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no one Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Flow coat is uses the same catalyst (MEKP) as polyester fiberglass resin and compatible with polyester resin. It is used to build boats because it is cheap and does a fair job, Epoxy resin is more waterproof and more adhesive so is very good for repairs but is more expensive. There is also vinyl resin which is between the other two types in properties and price. I'm not sure if there is a definitive answer on what to use, the cheaper polyester and flow coat will probably be OK, but you will want to give extra protection where you drill through the wood for bung holes etc.. If your keen you could ring International Paints or one of the fiberglass manufactures - they have technical service departments/ chemists that can be very helpful. Do you have a <> store in your area? That's where I get my materials.You're experienced on this site enough to know not to mention store names as its against the rules.We appreciate the input, it is very useful information however please pm the store names. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no one Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Fellas, we've all read and agreed to this websites rules, yet again and again we're seeing them broken with store names being shouted from the roof tops. The reason behind these rules is because we have sponsors who have full exclusive advertising rights on here. If you want to suggest store names, use the PM function. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 My apologies for that was unintentional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Hey Geoff , Fiberglassing is pretty straight forward .... just REMEMBER the Golden RULE , Measure twice & cut ONCE !!!! (or is it the other way around???LOL..).Here's a few photos of a custom made bait tank i did on my old V17 haines , I actually moulded mine between the seats to look as if it was done from factory.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antonywardle Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 thats turned out pretty nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Hey Geoff , Fiberglassing is pretty straight forward .... just REMEMBER the Golden RULE , Measure twice & cut ONCE !!!! (or is it the other way around???LOL..).Here's a few photos of a custom made bait tank i did on my old V17 haines , I actually moulded mine between the seats to look as if it was done from factory...Picture 204.jpgPicture 193.jpgPicture 206.jpg. Mate that looks TOPS!! You'd have to be wrapped with a finished project like that.....That really does looks like it was done at the factory 4myson.... obviously not your first project but mate, coz I couldn't imagine whacking something that great together on the first crack? I'm intrigued as to how you glassed inside and in the top corners while that lid was on mate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) The whole thing is made of marine ply first & then cut out the top opening so I could fiberglass it inside & out to make it watertight & add strength . Once that was done then I fiberglassed it into place between the seats....I decided to go with a clear Perspex lid so I could keep an eye on my catch ..... Hope that helps ... Sash..... Edited November 4, 2015 by 4myson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakey55 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 4myson. That is an excellent DIY project [emoji818]️[emoji818]️[emoji818]️ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaClH2OK9 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Great job 4myson Garfield28, let's get some progress pics as you work through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batfishing Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 4myson, that is really neat. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Thanks all for the praise .. Garfield just remember not too much Catalyst !!! Don't try & Fiberglass everything in 1 go !!!! Just take your time & NEVER rush fibreglassing !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garfield28 Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 4myson, mate in all honesty I'm blown away by how good a job you have done, and how bloody wrapped you must have been yourself when you step back and look at what you have created. A couple of questions if I may mate please, what thickness ply did you use and did you make lots of slit cuts to bend it to shape? How many litres does that hold? Would you recommend using chop strand over matting or visa versa mate? Thanks Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4myson Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Top , bottom & back was 6mm due to me adding a couple of rod holders on the back for a removable bait board but on the front curved section only 3mm thickness so I could get the desired curved ... Don't be worried about using as thin as possible marine ply because the Fiberglass is what actually adds strength to it . It holds around 25 litres .. I buy my Fiberglass in large roll lengths ....hope that helps & goodluck with it Geoff ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I just bought a cool box. You can get various sizes from Bunnings or BCF. It was easy to plumb and I used a bilge pump fitted to a platform attached to the transom underwater and also scoop. Going along I use a scoop to inject fresh water and at rest I use the bilge pump. I have also installed an aerator it will keep 20 livies alive for well over a few hours. It was quite inexpensive no more than $250 all up. And quick to install. Most cool boxes also have a drain plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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