Boat Tyres & Tubes

[fragmeister]

Hi Raiders,

I recently went to pump up my boat tyres and noticed the valve caps were seized in place.

The caps were twisting around but not coming loose until, the whole inside of the valve stem came out in my hand and of course the tyre started deflating. Same thing on the other tyre.

Now I have never really thought of this before but the threaded insert that takes the valve must be bonded to the valve stem on some way during the manufacturing process. Either I have two duds or this must be a common issue and I am perhaps missing some trailer preventative maintenance step!

Any advice in this area?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

[Nolongeramember]

Jim, sounds like they are some cheap ass valve stems. Did you turn off the caps by hand or did you use a tool? If you used a tool then yeah maybe excessive force was your problem.

What kind of caps do you have on there? They must be a metal type to be getting seized. You could grease the threads on the metal ones or I use the plain plastic type. 

[fragmeister]

Just had a word to the type people across the road...

They reckon this is probably a tubeless valve like the guts of the valve ( the actual metal valve) has become unbonded.

It's a worry!

[fragmeister]

6 hours ago, noelm said:

Tyres, tubes, valves and everything else just falls to bits after a dunk in salt water, the sitting in the sun, then back in the salt, it just "happens" tubeless tyres are bad news on boat trailers, corrosion sets in around the rim, slow leaks develop and next time you want to go fishing, you have a flat tyre, tyres services will tell you they are OK, but in practice, there're not.

Thanks Noel,

Would you suggest putting tubes in.

Cheers

Jim

[Fab1]

24 minutes ago, fragmeister said:

Thanks Noel,

Would you suggest putting tubes in.

Cheers

Jim

Putting tubes in won't solve your delaminated tyre valve.

Running tubes or tubeless you will eventually get cracking on the valve stem which should be inspected periodically by bending the stem and if any sort of cracking crazing is found should be replaced.

  This is past it's use by date and I would de-mount the tyre and inspect and paint the rim also.

[Nolongeramember]

If your using steel rims they would be the first thing I would be changing. To alloy. 

[Fab1]

6 hours ago, Roylo said:

If your using steel rims they would be the first thing I would be changing. To alloy. 

Yes,Alloy rims are better but they can also have issues.(Not to the degree steel does)I was talking in general to check your valve stems,tyres and rims periodically as many people have boats,box trailers,caravans etc that this can happen to.

  Cheers.

[suttonscurse]

Hi Guys

Could I please pass on some technical advice on tyres / rims and their service requirements

As my friends at Bridgestone say in their TV ads remember that there is only one handprint size of tyre tread between the road and your car (and boat trailer)

1) the valve shown in the above replies is a tubeless tyre valve  - it is pulled from the inside of the rim to have it seated in the valve hole - they are actually quite a good item - However with the centrifugal force at 100km speed they do flex  and actually bend over quite a bit which leads to rubber degradation and cracking / failure (regular dunking in salt water doesn't help either ) - they are very cheap and easily replaced at your local tyre shop

2) when replacing the valve always wire brush the rim flange area and valve hole to remove any surface rust - this will ensure a tight air seal with the tyre bead (or valve) and negate air leakage problems

3) I have a great preference for tubeless tyres - with a tube fitted if you get a puncture you have a instantaneous air loss whereas a tubeless tyre will tend to be self sealing and have a gradual pressure loss

4) I also prefer fitting light truck tyres to my trailer wheels - they have a higher weight carrying capacity , are much more robust than a passenger tyre and also tend to track better on a trailer

5) the steel cord used in belt packages on tyres is brass coated steel strands - this is a design attribute to ensure adhesion between the steel strands and rubber and also protects against rust issues during the tyres service life

6) steel rims and quality tyres are actually very cheap - remember that there is a large investment riding on top of the trailer -  (boat / motor and all the assorted gear we carry around)  It is sensible to replace tyres every 5 years (boat trailers spend a lot of time sitting in one spot which causes localised stresses to the tyre - especially when under inflated ) and if you have rusty steel rims replace then as well  - (and while you have the rim  off the trailer service the wheel bearings at the same time)

Ensuring correct air pressure in tyres , regularly checking for any rubber deterioration in tyres & valves  or damage from  road  / boat ramp hazards and servicing bearings would solve a lot of trailer breakdowns - we always see boat trailers sitting on the side of the road with tyre / bearing issues - doesn't make for a fun day ?  

I hope the above advice helps

Regards Bill

 

 

 

 

[fragmeister]

Thanks for all the advice boys. All very useful and it will no doubt change my mainetnace and checklist in the future

In all the suggestions though my exact case seems a little different. I probably did not explain it well. ( I wish I had a picture )

The rims are alloy. There is no rust. There is no cracking at the base of the valve stem.

It looks to me like a valve stem is a hard hollow rubber with a steel or bass valve assembly inserted into the hollow stem and bonded to the valve stem itself. The valve caps on mine have corroded and when I hand twisted them off the valve pulled out of the center of the valve stem leaving a hollow valve step in place and of course air came out. I could push the valve straight back in to the valve stem and it stayed there and air stopped leaking out.

I have subsequently taken the tyres and had new valve stems put in. All back on the boat.

The tyre guy says this is quite common. The rust gets into the metal valve cap and the corrosion swells the vale assembly and perishes the rubber where the valve in bonded to the valve stem.

He reckons that you should leave them off or use plastic caps.

Thanks again boys

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

 

 

 

 

[big Neil]

21 hours ago, suttonscurse said:

Hi Guys

Could I please pass on some technical advice on tyres / rims and their service requirements

As my friends at Bridgestone say in their TV ads remember that there is only one handprint size of tyre tread between the road and your car (and boat trailer)

1) the valve shown in the above replies is a tubeless tyre valve  - it is pulled from the inside of the rim to have it seated in the valve hole - they are actually quite a good item - However with the centrifugal force at 100km speed they do flex  and actually bend over quite a bit which leads to rubber degradation and cracking / failure (regular dunking in salt water doesn't help either ) - they are very cheap and easily replaced at your local tyre shop

2) when replacing the valve always wire brush the rim flange area and valve hole to remove any surface rust - this will ensure a tight air seal with the tyre bead (or valve) and negate air leakage problems

3) I have a great preference for tubeless tyres - with a tube fitted if you get a puncture you have a instantaneous air loss whereas a tubeless tyre will tend to be self sealing and have a gradual pressure loss

4) I also prefer fitting light truck tyres to my trailer wheels - they have a higher weight carrying capacity , are much more robust than a passenger tyre and also tend to track better on a trailer

5) the steel cord used in belt packages on tyres is brass coated steel strands - this is a design attribute to ensure adhesion between the steel strands and rubber and also protects against rust issues during the tyres service life

6) steel rims and quality tyres are actually very cheap - remember that there is a large investment riding on top of the trailer -  (boat / motor and all the assorted gear we carry around)  It is sensible to replace tyres every 5 years (boat trailers spend a lot of time sitting in one spot which causes localised stresses to the tyre - especially when under inflated ) and if you have rusty steel rims replace then as well  - (and while you have the rim  off the trailer service the wheel bearings at the same time)

Ensuring correct air pressure in tyres , regularly checking for any rubber deterioration in tyres & valves  or damage from  road  / boat ramp hazards and servicing bearings would solve a lot of trailer breakdowns - we always see boat trailers sitting on the side of the road with tyre / bearing issues - doesn't make for a fun day ?  

I hope the above advice helps

Regards Bill

 

 

 

 

Many thanks for a very informative commentary relating to items which we easily take for granted. Cheers Bill, BN