Rod tip repair

[kiwicraig]

Had a really good experience at the local blue store that sells fishing gear (and two other categories I can never remember ?).  You take the rod in and buy a new tip guide and they will remove the old one and fit the new one free while you wait.  I had two decent blanks with broken tips and they repaired both in about 10-15 mins and it only cost me about $10.  I reckon it was so cost effective I can justify that dedicated squid Egi rod combo I have my eye on...

[Aardvarking]

I had the same experience at a certain world of tackle in Drummoyne. Expected that I would just have to buy the tip and do it myself, but they took off the old one and put the new one on dead straight, only making me pay the 10 dollars for the tip.

[wazatherfisherman]

That's good service! For those that don't know, most tips are glued on with either Araldite or similar two part epoxy. To remove, just heat with a lighter and pull straight off with pliers (as it's hot!) If for any reason they are not aligned correctly, heating and adjusting slightly also works fine, especially if using Araldite as it just 're-sets' when it cools.

[kingie chaser]

I was recently quoted $40 at my local to replace a small guide on a light 2-4kg Catana rod to which I replied...………..um the rod only cost me $50 it would be easier to buy a new rod ?.

So anyway I bought a similar sized $6 Fuji guide & did it myself.

 

Not much love for that shop! 

[Berleyguts]

2 hours ago, kingie chaser said:

I was recently quoted $40 at my local to replace a small guide on a light 2-4kg Catana rod to which I replied...………..um the rod only cost me $50 it would be easier to buy a new rod ?.

So anyway I bought a similar sized $6 Fuji guide & did it myself.

 

Not much love for that shop! 

A tip guide is an easy fix and my local tackle shop does it for about $5, from memory. However, any other guide needs removal of the thread, new underbinding to match, sealer, over binding to match, sealer and epoxy top coat, so I can understand why they might charge $40. I like to do it myself anyway.

[antonywardle]

Who did it? Was it Mika? He knows his stuff. I think there are a couple in there who are pretty good.

 

[xerotao]

No no no.  Dont use alradite. Just you hot glue stick the ones you use in a hot glue gun

[xerotao]

2 hours ago, Berleyguts said:

A tip guide is an easy fix and my local tackle shop does it for about $5, from memory. However, any other guide needs removal of the thread, new underbinding to match, sealer, over binding to match, sealer and epoxy top coat, so I can understand why they might charge $40. I like to do it myself anyway.

I agree. A lot more effort in replacing a guide. Plus the many hours of it sitting on a dryer rotisserie 

[wazatherfisherman]

42 minutes ago, xerotao said:

No no no.  Dont use alradite. Just you hot glue stick the ones you use in a hot glue gun

Why not use Araldite? I've been a custom rod builder and repairer for 40 years and have always used it. Never had a problem putting on/taking off

[xerotao]

4 hours ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Why not use Araldite? I've been a custom rod builder and repairer for 40 years and have always used it. Never had a problem putting on/taking off

Im also a rod builder and never needed to use araldite. using rod tip glue is quicker, neater and cheaper.

[wazatherfisherman]

1 hour ago, xerotao said:

Im also a rod builder and never needed to use araldite. using rod tip glue is quicker, neater and cheaper.

Hi Xerotao wondering what glue do you use for grips, winch, butt and "bling" if you don't use Araldite? This is not a criticism, rather a genuine question. I generally do butt, grips, winch, bling and tip in one go with same glue mix (24 hr Araldite) then on lathe next day for guides, diamond/design and coatings etc. Never thought of using hot melt glue 

[xerotao]

3 minutes ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Hi Xerotao wondering what glue do you use for grips, winch, butt and "bling" if you don't use Araldite? This is not a criticism, rather a genuine question. I generally do butt, grips, winch, bling and tip in one go with same glue mix (24 hr Araldite) then on lathe next day for guides, diamond/design and coatings etc. Never thought of using hot melt glue 

Hi wazathefisherman, i use a 2 part epoxy (or araldite as commonly known) for grips, reel seat, butt and bling bits. only place i use hot glue is for is the tip top, and only that.

nothing wrong with using araldite for the tip, but its just too much effort when theres another method that is just so much easier.

[wazatherfisherman]

3 minutes ago, xerotao said:

Hi wazathefisherman, i use a 2 part epoxy (or araldite as commonly known) for grips, reel seat, butt and bling bits. only place i use hot glue is for is the tip top, and only that.

nothing wrong with using araldite for the tip, but its just too much effort when theres another method that is just so much easier.

Ok cool I can see why you use it. Thanks for quick reply 

[xerotao]

25 minutes ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Ok cool I can see why you use it. Thanks for quick reply 

No problems. Hope to see some builds of yours one day.

[kingie chaser]

I used Devcon plastic steel for my repair.

 

Wrong stuff I know but I think the rod will break around that repair ??

 

Now noticed another guide on the same rod had split the metal ring again & the plastic guide has fallen out.

 

Its a couple of years old so I hope he guides they are using on the newer Catana's are better.

 

Never had a Fuji fail though!!

[wazatherfisherman]

3 minutes ago, xerotao said:

No problems. Hope to see some builds of yours one day.

I'm pretty hopeless with the computer or I could send a couple of pics of diamonds and chevrons. My Hairtail rod is about 25 years old (Snyder FT 67) and has a simple but nice green and yellow full diamond that still looks pretty good. Coating was "Superflex Secret Formula". Last half dozen rods have been 2 handed split butt with winch starting at 42 cm from butt, built on Rainshadow blanks 'ebayed' from USA and CRB brand coloured blanks (lime green and purple) with USA components from the giant USA rod building company. Have bought plenty of bargains from another USA seller who usually sells bulk lots- I can message you details if you're interested. I still look for old glass blanks as well as graphite and scored some old Fenwick 'honey-mustard' blanks a few months ago, which are like gold to older fisho's! Currently building 15 and 24 kg full roller game rods, one with Alutecnos rollers and the other with gold plated Aftco's. Just finished an old Snyder 'Flame Wrap' 8 kg roller rod with one legged Aftco rollers- detailed brown, black and gold diamond and gold gimbal etc. Mostly build 6-8 ft spinning rods these days, but more for love than money, as you know hard to make much on rods unless they are either a set or something really unusual. Am shortly moving to far Nth Coast at Murwillumbah and trying to finish off a few promised orders. Cheers

 

8 minutes ago, xerotao said:

No problems. Hope to see some builds of yours one day.

 

[wazatherfisherman]

48 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:

I used Devcon plastic steel for my repair.

 

Wrong stuff I know but I think the rod will break around that repair ??

 

Now noticed another guide on the same rod had split the metal ring again & the plastic guide has fallen out.

 

Its a couple of years old so I hope he guides they are using on the newer Catana's are better.

 

Never had a Fuji fail though!!

Worst part of guide repair has got to be getting epoxy off- actual bind only takes a few mins. Fuji always quality. Is it possible to 'undo' plastic steel if you need to?

[kingie chaser]

10 hours ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Is it possible to 'undo' plastic steel if you need to?

Yeh, with a hammer & chisel ?

 

I never intended it to be 'undone' & if I fix this next guide & then another one goes im going to take to it with a chainsaw & throw it in the bin & buy a new rod!