Nolongeramember

The one I use is called QBond super glue.

I know your set on getting one of these clips but I reckon your better off just leaving the reel in gear. In my experience if a King is going to eat a bait it will do it with the reel in gear and get hooked no problem. With the bail open on a spin reel it will still feel some resistance, not to mention the resistance from the line in the water. The fish will have time to drop the bait and not hook on. When the reel is in gear the King has no time to think when it grabs the bait. As soon as it grabs it, it moves away and it hooks on. Just my opinion.

Hi. I just came across this topic. Having GPS is a no brainer for sure, but I like to have a seperate unit to the sounder. That way you can use full screen on the sounder all the time which is important and the bigger the screen the more you can see and assess. Also, no changing back and forth between the 2.

A 5 or 7 amp charger will suit what you want to do. You don’t really have to spend extra on a marine version either. If you want more information you can PM me.

So do I and that’s what I use. Small plastic’s like those used for bream are no problem but when you use bigger sizes you get more water drag, plus if you have removed the plastic a few times to change weight or whatever it wears out where it grips onto the jighead. No matter what you do the plastic slides down, away from the weight. Only solution I’ve found is super glue. Just a drop and it doesn’t move. You can still take the plastic off and reuse it as well.

Yep I use it, especially for larger plastics used for flathead. Some just don’t stay put unless you use glue. I just use a drop of normal super glue and no problems eating the plastic.

I remember this topic from a while back.

There was obviously something not quite right with it. There is no way I would have eaten it!

That's what I do, charge the batteries before heading out. Without getting technical, don't worry about trickle charge or whatever. Just plug in your Ctek or other smart charger and it will charge the battery exactly how it needs to be charged to get it to 100%. There is only 1 charger you need.

Oh ok. Now I better understand. The 9V you are referring to isn’t one of those little square types we used to put our tongues across when kids? I can’t seeing a battery that small running a sounder for any useful amount of time. I still reckon just get the big electric motor battery if it’s going to cost you to get a decent motorbike battery.

The amount of salt contamination is very small and makes no noticeable difference to cleaning. I wouldn’t use the same water more than once though. I use a round plastic garbage bin. You still need the hose in there on slow to keep it topped up as the engine vibrates or whatever and some water splashes out, so the water slowly gets renewed as well. Also, my teltale doesn’t go into the barrel.

i didnt think of that. You could find out what temperature the thermostat fully opens at, then test the engine temperature. But it usually won’t fully open. For flushing, I warm the engine a bit at idle then I keep the revs up to about 3000rpm until the water comes out warm for a few minutes and that’s it. Whole thing takes about 15mins. Another reason to use a barrel. It’s quiet so you can put the revs up if you want.

Firelighters and chimney. That’s how long it takes me.

I know you are trying to keep weight down but why buy 2 batteries and end up only using 1? If you are sure you are going to get the Watersnake I would just get the large 12v and run the sounder off that.

You can’t tell. It usually never fully opens. It only opens enough to let just the right amount of water through to keep the engine at the correct temperature. If the engine needs to be cooler it will open more. Things that will cause it to open more are warmer water going in, the engine working harder, higher revs or anything that would make the engine temperature rise.

I love the taste of cooking on open charcoal and don’t mind it every now and then but I find it tends to dry out the meat. I compare cooking my steaks or sausages on a plate or frying pan and they are definitely more juicer. Cant beat cooking in a Weber oven with charcoal though.

I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Heat Beads take me minimum 45mins from lighting the firelighters to being burned over ready for cooking. I also use a chimney and blow it with an air compressor as well.

Plus it takes about 40mins to start the coals. Time is precious out on a boat or fishing trip.

Might not be Flathead that are giving you these missed bites. Could be something else small. In any case, try a smaller lure. Make sure your hooks are sharp.

Any Yamaha dealer.

Some of the reasons the barrel flush is better. That’s right, the thermostat opens very little. You can flush for hours and still won’t remove all the salt as there is very little water flow going through the galleries. It’s inevitable that salt will build up inside over time.

Not really. The water pump makes the pressure that goes through the engine. The ear muffs or barrel just get the water to it. The amount of contamination from recycling the water in a barrel is very small and would make no noticeable difference to the cleaning of the engine. I actually prefer using a barrel.

You can do it yourself with a new tip guide and Araldite, or the fishing shop CA at Villawood do those repairs while you wait. If you do it yourself you need the correct size guide and tube diameter to fit over the end. Like the person above said, you can use the old guide if the tube fits over the end.

Don’t bother with Saltaway. It won’t remove the aged, caked on salt residue one bit. I know from first hand experience. As I said earlier, the only way is to take the head apart and manually clean it.

Could also be a build up of salt inside the engine where the water flows through. Only way to fix it is to take the engine apart and physically clean it out. Start with the basics, thermostat and pump then go from there.