Nolongeramember

4.6 alimininium boat, I would much rather do the job away from water at home. All you need is a jack. Even the jack that comes with your car can do the job.

Can’t tell in the photo if the lowest fin is bent or snapped off, but if it’s bent the same as the others you should be able to straighten them back out if done properly.

I’m not much of a fan of Platypus mono lines even though they are popular. I like the German made Schneider mono line.

It’s annoying that they think it’s ok the plaster stickers on someone else’s property without asking first. I had a car serviced once and the business thought it was fine to cover it in stickers with their name. I said who gave you permission to put all that onto my car?

Heat the stickers up with a hair drier or heat gun and then peel them off. They should come off easy as they have not been on there for very long.

This is a common problem. What happens is because the sinker is the fastest sinking part of the rig, the bait and trace comes up vertical when it’s sinking and being pulled down by the sinker. This brings the bait right next to the main line the whole time it is sinking and gives it a good chance to tangle with the main line. If your bait is spinning it’s makes it even more likely to tangle. Cast or lower your bait with the current, lower it slowly or use a lighter sinker so it sinks slower all should help.

See if you can find some information on how circle hooks work and you can better understand the do’s and dont’s.

I don’t see any advantage with using a circle hook over a J hook if you want the fish to hook itself. If a fish swims away with a bait in its mouth or stomach a j hook will go in. I reckon with a better success rate than a circle as well.

You can use normal hooks even if you don’t have a baitrunner feature. The fish will still get hooked just the same. I don’t see anything to gain with switching to a circle hook other than if your trying to avoid gut hooking. If you want the proper benefit of a circle hook then in-line are the only ones to use.

If rebuilt properly it's better than old used as the parts are new. Whether it's done properly is another story. People have different versions of 'rebuilt', especially sellers. I wouldn't buy it unless I could find out exactly what work was done (with proof) and by who. I would also find out why it needed to be rebuilt as well. Could have been constantly overheated, ran without oil in the past or have internal corrosion issues which could mean other damage that has not been 'rebuilt'

I use 8lb Jbraid too. I like it.

I haven’t tried Powerpro, but I have tried 2 and 4lb Fireline. Sure it’s good for casting and being more inconspicuous, but you WILL get break offs that you wouldn’t normally on the main line. For me it was not worth the headaches so I went back to 6lb and I find it’s the best compromise.

One of my favourite parts of a fishing trip is sunrise. I usually start when it’s still dark.

The main issue I found using ultra light (2 and 4lb) Fireline is unexpected break offs at random parts of the main line. Let me explain why I think it happens. All lines get tiny nicks and wear points from normal use. With 2 and 4lb, the line is so thin that even a small unnoticeable defect compromises the lines OVERALL strength by a lot. A thicker (6lb) line’s overall strength is not affected as much by the same wear or marks. I suppose the way to avoid or reduce the issue is to cut off the working part of the line very often but you will be going through alot of line.

From experience with Fireline I would estimate 2lb would be like 4lb of most other braids. That’s still very light and from more experience trying these light braids they give you more trouble than what they are worth. What size leader are you planning on using?

Lighter line, a full spool, heavier and more aerodynamic sinkers or lure, and cast at a higher angle when the wind is behind you and a lower angle if it is coming towards you. These will all help to cast further.

I disagree. We are talking about a 2 stroke engine. Taking the top cover off the head and cleaning out the water passages is a simple thing. I done the same on my old 60HP Yamaha and it needed it badly. I’m guessing this engine does as well. Look at the condition of the thermostat housing. You can bet the water passages are clogged up similar. Ive spoken to other mechanics and they say it should be done as part of periodic maintenance on these particular engines.

Last resort? How else do they suggest to clean the junk out the water passages then?

I think he is referring to the almost capsize when coming into the beach. It’s the only thing close to an “almost” I saw.

That’s a bit of a difficult question to answer as everyone has different amounts of risk they want to take. 6lb line/ leader will bring in any flathead your likely to hook but you risk getting bit off by the flatheads teeth. Are you fishing bait or lure? I would go 8-10lb myself. That size leader should last for a decent session. Some people use more. Up to you really. Check the leader after every fish.

I’m no expert but I know the plate where you have the foil should be about level with the water or just under when at speed. For best performace go as high as you can without getting cavitation (I think it’s called when the prop slips in the water) when turning.

I would go pick it up for sure. Check everything is alright with it before handing over the dough. Otherwise, if you get it delivered it’s much more difficult to get any issues sorted.

Yeah, most of the water does go through the prop, but on my Suzuki 60 both the telltale and prop water get warm evenly during flushing. Even with cold water going in. (On muffs) Does anyone know if the telltale water does go through the engine when the thermostat is open?

Nice King mate. On 20lb and land based near structure, good job ??

You can only give it go. See how it goes. Just watch out for your fingers on the line when a king is running and you close the bail arm.