myocard

Networking with a windows machine is no easy or harder than with a mac. None of them will just work out of the box unless you have no security whatsover. Neither will either share a network connection with any other device without a bit of setup. What you'll need from the windows side is to enable "Internet Connection Sharing". I haven't done this for quite a while, but google will lead you to the answer. Going the 'other way' (ie Mac on the modem/PC to share) is similarly straightforward - there is an option in Mac software to share a network connection - but you'll have to find it and enable it - it is not on by default.

I dropped mine off the trailer onto the lawn. Push it off and drive the trailer out slowly. Easy to put off, easy to winch the trailer back under the boat. The boat hardly moves at all.

Old Quinnie Fishabout. 14ft runabout with a fixed windscreen - makes a bow mount hard if not impossible to get in and out of the water. If I am resigned to a transom mount model - are these useful at all? Do you need to hold the tiller constantly? Can you maneuver the boat? Is it a waste of time and money?

Is a transom mounted electric better than no electric at all? Any suggestions for a runabout with a fixed windscreen (ie) getting to the bow is not going to happen. I've never used an electic motor at all, but I can see how useful they can be. I see transom mounted motors that are tiller guided rather than pedal/remote and wonder if they would be that useful for positioning a boat to cast lures around structure etc.

Nice haul. Good to see so many bream. Be thankful you aren't there at night - heaps of catties plus some huge pike eels have been aroun in the last few weeks. Hard to get the squid to the jews! Bait or lures? What bait were you using.

This is exactly what I do. It's a lot to ask a kid to do - no problems when things are fine, but a lot of things can happen at a boat ramp. Ramps are no places for kids - cars reversing with very little vision, the last thing people are looking out for is children. The best advice is to have a routine - put things on/off in the same order - bungs, tie-downs, lights etc. Worst thing that can happen is that someone decides to 'help' you. That is when things get forgotten, get undone before they should etc.

Both. I like to fish long sessions & try a few things according to light/current/tide/mood/location/energy/catch. If you went out for a 8-12 hour+ lure session your arms would fall off.

Go slowly. There are boats, poles and other potential hazards that are not lit. Know the area well - navigation markers are often unlit or the lights are not working.

Ian's shop at Brooklyn.

Berowra tonight in search of mudcrabs & jewfish

Looks like a handle off a kite. Try hobby shops or the places you might buy kites.

Over Easter I will likely get a chance to fish the Murrumbidgee River in the Griffith / Leeton area. Blokes I'll go with are dedicated bait fishos, with local caught shrimp & local worms from what I recall from a few years ago. Any tips for lures to use? I have plenty of soft plastics & some hard body bream lures - will these work for yellow-belly and cod or do I need something more specific for freshwater? Any tips appreciated - I will be giving the SP's a go anyway. Cheers

I've got some smelly T-Shirts if you need 'em.

Looks like they are heading back in fast after realising they forgot the rods

Works fine on a Blackberry & through the new mobile version of opera. What is the apple browser like?

I put Fishraider in the club name category. Probably makes no difference.

I wouldn't use one. But banning them seems excessive and unnecessary. As long as the angler abides by other relevant rules what is the problem? Any argument used against electric reels could be used to limit other reels & gear. After all, using a rod and reel is easier than using a handline.

Thanks for the feedback. It is a pre-braid setup & I wont be casting at all with it - this was some of the thinking behind filling the reel with decent mono. The ability of mono to withstand some abrasion, and the costs also come into it. I hadn't considered that the guides may not be suitable - this would rule braid out if it's the case. I'm in no rush - looks like a crabbing / bream fishing weekend for me at this stage. Cheers

"Great, big cumbersome" - none of these words came to mind when I pictured these rods. Sounds like I'll be sticking to handlines for bait jigs.

Does anyone have experience with these hollow rods? Jarvis Walker have a tube rod for use with bait jigs. They look useful. http://www.jarviswalker.com.au/product.asp?cid=116&id=1290

You could be safe - I can't even find the photo

Colours dive site is closer in - off the gap as mentioned above

Entered. Will be interested to see the target species. Might force me to fish for something I am not used to.

I have a rod & reel from around 1985 that I used for trolling & bottom bashing. They were used regularly for a few years and then left to sit in a garage. The reel has been recently serviced and declared to be in top nick. The reel is a Daiwa Sealine 350H. The rod is an Ugly Stick - Gutts But 10kg. It is about 6'6" with a roller tip & what I think are ceramic guides & a gimble butt. Attached are photos of the specs on the rod. I want to use this to troll Broken Bay & specifically to troll for Kings. This setup seems a fair bit 'heavy' by todays standards, yet the idea of using 10kg line is very light for what I have in mind. I have landed stripeys/bonito/small yellowfin & small sharks with ease with 10kg mono on this previously. I was thinking of spooling it with 10kg mono again. Any recommendations or thoughts appreciated.