myocard

I have been happy with the double uni knot for attaching fluoro leader to braid. Knots are strong. Two problems I have had - one is casting. The double uni affects casting distances & does worse things some times. This annoys me to the point that on some rods I make sure the knot is clear of the tip before casting. I get away with this with spinning reels - but with overhead reels you have to be more careful. Second problem raised it's head in a lost jewfish. I had just landed a 70cm jew, rebaited and hooked up again to a similar sized fish. Got it to the boat, only for the double uni to foul on the rod tip runner. This was all the fish needed to go bezerk on the surface and throw the hook. All I had to do was reach forward, tug on the line and the knot would clear the runner. That is all the time the fish needed. I landed another with the same setup - but now it is time to change before the next outing. So I decided the Albright knot sounds like what I need. First two I tied with 20lb braid / 30lb fluoro leader and all is good. Now I tie a 6lb braid / 10lb leader albright and it fails. And fails again. Now I am doubting the knots in my heavier rigs. So is the albright a reliable knot for this purpose. Any other recommendations?

Nice problem to have. I've never had any left over to worry about.

The new pontoon is well constructed and useful in all tides. The ramp now has raised edges and marked lanes. The pontoon is just far enough away from the ramp that you cannot transfer a boat across from the ramp without help. Which means even for two people it is a time waster to launch/get the boat to the pontoon/ get the trailer away from the ramp. For someone on their own it is even more of a time waster and with the river cat effect up there you have to get the timing right.

Anyone know if the static electricity risks overcome by using a jerry can & siphon with the tank still in the boat?

Thanks. I think this is a different problem - there is no cable steering in a housing - this is a clothes-line like cable that runs down each side of the hull bare. The problem is in the motor mount itself (is this a 'tilt tube'?). Even with all the steering disconnected the motor is very hard to turn. Once it has been heated & greased it turns easily, but I am concerned that it may be binding up again.

Great job. You've transformed the boat.

My steering was seized up tight just after Christmas. I found out the hard way, motoring away from the boat ramp. It's older style cable steering - so it was easy to determine that neither the pulleys or helm had seized - which left the motor. I found a boat shop open between Christmas & New Year and they not only had a look at short notice, but they got the steering going again with some heat and grease. Warned me that this was a quick fix. The grease nipple on the pivot housing (what is it called?) is buggered, so only so much grease could be pumped in - but the gritty clay-like grease coming out was a tell-tale for the problems inside. What is the long-term fix for this? Can the housing be cleaned out? Motor off job? Something that could be tackled at home on the driveway? Job for a boat shop? Motor runs spot on except for this problem. 1989 35hp Mercury. Cheers

Here is a document from the Aus Federal Govt dated 2005 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/saf...static_fire.pdf I am aware of the risks of filling containers in the car - always safer to take them out and fill them on the ground. Same risks apply in boats? Tanks can be harder, if not impossible to remove in a boat. Also, tanks can be much harder to lift back into place when full. I see plenty of trailer boats filled at the servo - and plenty with the plastic removable tanks. Fuelling my boat is a huge pain in the arse with jerry cans & siphons - and I am not even sure that this is safer than just using the bowser at the servo. The tank is installed under some woodwork, although it is not attached to the hull in any way - just sits in a bracket.

For boats without a built-in tank, are there concerns or issues with filling tanks from a bowser while the tanks are still in the boat and the boat is on the trailer? How about siphoning from a jerry can to the boat while the removable tank is still in the boat?

Are the inline fuses there to protect the pump? Or something else? Same for a live bait tank pump?

45 cm only 2 fish over 70 cm. Bag limit 5

From DPI website Vessels travelling through sanctuary zones All vessels may transit through a sanctuary zone. Vessels must stow any fishing gear whilst transiting a sanctuary zone. Vessels anchored, moored or aground in sanctuary zones must have all fishing lines unrigged. Trawlers must have the cod end of a trawl net open and the otter boards out of the water whilst transiting a sanctuary zone.

Corlette Wreck is in Salamander Bay - is that right? Pretty close to a sanctuary zone there as well. If you can't cross a sanctuary zone with a rigged line then every boat leaving West of Shoal bay and every boat from Hawks Nest/Tea Gardens would be affected. What is the definition of rigged?

Where can I get a decent map, or proper descriptions, of the zones in the Port Stephens Marine Park? The maps on the dpi website are woeful - which would not matter except for the draconian fines that are applied and all the new twin-outboard boats the dpi has bought themselves to police the zones. Makes you wonder what country we are living in. Is there somewhere to pick up decent maps in the area, or a description of what zones begin and end at what buoys etc? Thanks in advance for any advice.

You missed the joy of a river cat going past while you were retrieving.

That's the system I seem to be using by default. Marine carpet also works well.

The fillets I bought are bait-only. Vacuum packed/frozen - should be no need to be treated with anything. I'll see how it goes. The same shop has decent Hawkesbury squid & prawns. I don't think they are Brooklyn antique shop fresh - but better than other stuff around this area.

I found some at the tackle shop at Thompson's Corner (Pennant Hills Rd & Castle Hill Rd) . This shop stocks stripey fillets & whole fish.

It's a shame, I've been getting some crabs around here lately http://newcastleonhunter.com/2009/berowra-creek-toxic-algae/ Berowra Creek toxic algae on Dec23 2009.. by Press | Print the article SocialTwist Tell-a-Friend Wednesday, 23 December 2009 ~ Industry & Investment NSW has issued a warning to recreational fishers after a marine algae bloom in the Berowra Creek area of the Hawkesbury River. Routine monitoring has detected an increase in a toxic species of marine algae. People are advised to avoid collecting and eating wild shellfish, crabs and crustaceans and seek medical advice if they feel unwell after consuming wild oysters or crustaceans from these areas. Testing has shown that the commercial harvest areas are not affected by this outbreak. Shellfish sold through reputable suppliers comply with stringent testing guidelines and can be purchased with confidence. If any health effects are experienced from contact with water affected by algal blooms, medical advice should be promptly sought. More information * Health Issues: Northern Sydney Central Coast Area Health Service – (02) 9477 9400 * Food Safety: NSW Food Authority – (02) 6391 3312 * Fishing Enquiries: Industry & Investment NSW – (02) 6391 3180

Anything other than two occy straps would be un-Australian

I've done a bit of diving at Long Reef. I've seen spearos out at The Apartments and at The Wall. These were land based spearos who swam out & back. much more vulnerable than in a kayak. Although I wouldn't do either.

Does anyone know where I can buy some striped tuna in Sydney?

Thanks - useful stuff in those links.

Is the distance between downrigger and rod critical? For example, could I run a downrigger from near the helm in a runabout, with the rod set in a holder in the rear right corner of the stern - about 3 metres to the rear of the downrigger. Sounds like an awseome tangle waiting to happen, but it could be a very useful setup.

My boat has a 35hp Mercury, manual tilt. This motor is either up or down - there is no option for half-way or anywhere else. Are brackets generally available to allow me to 'trim' the motor at all. Anyone have any ideas? I'd like to be able to set the motor shallow to make it easier to pull into ramps, beah the boat, get into the shallows. Cheers