Fab1
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Posts posted by Fab1
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It weighs 592kg loaded up ready to fish on trailer as per weighbridge certificate.hahaha... My bare boat base on Horizon's specification weighted at 270kg alone. http://www.horizonboats.com.au/boat-range/family-and-lifestyle/easyfisher-ra/
Add motor about 60-70kg, 3 person and gears, it is well over 600kg.
What the spec of your boat?
My 30hp is really too small for my boat with 3 people but try to fix it cheap and if the prop makes a differences, why not.
From memory the hull is just above 200kg and the motor is in the high 50, s early 60, s kg.
95% of the time it's just me and my son on board though, and for my needs it's been a perfect little boat that has served me well thus far.
If I was going to use it ALOT more than I currently do and carry 3 or 4 people on board most of the time, no doubt I would opt for a 40hp with PTNT.
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Totally agree mate.You can normally weld hull material which is most likely 5052 on the Quinie with cast aluminum fittings using 5356 filler, this shouldn't corrode unless there was a fair bit of porosity in the original weld which is possible because cast fittings are a bit like aero bars sometimes, full of air pockets inside which can contaminate the weld if not dealt with correctly. Cast fittings aren't great, they tend to break a lot buts that's another subject.
Paikea,the problem with painted welded cleats is that the paint will eventually wear through the cleats legs from constant rubbing/chaffing from ropes which can also allow saltwater moisture to get under the paint starting corrosion.
As mentioned above any porosity/pinholes in welds,chips/scratches in paint etc, saltwater is very good at finding it's way in leading to the same thing occuring.
And don't think it occurs with quintrex only, it can happen with any painted aluminium boat regardless of brand/price.
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Is your boat made of lead? Have you pulled your anchor back in? Only kidding mate,my 4.2 quinny in runabout configuration with old tech 30hp 2cyl carby MTNT Yamaha gets on the plane really well with an alloy 12"prop with 3 of us fat arses weighing 270kg combined, let alone the rest of the weight of all the other stuff on board.Definitely speak to the people at Solas, I dealt with Shane. I had same problem as you it struggle to get to the plane even by myself. I got 4.2 Aluminium with 2 stroke suzuki 30hp.
Last 2 numbers are usually the pitch size. My motor originally come with aluminium 12" and I was advised by going to 11" would give extra 200rpm and plane quicker.
So I brought from them 11" Stainless steel and it did get me on the plane quicker but lost about 2kmph. Next test would be load the boat with 3 people and see how it perform.
Shane advised that if I am not happy with it, I am not stuck with it and if I sell the boat I can get trade in on it.
Got some discount and shipped to my door the next day.
You should be able to plane easily in yours when on your own especially if its an open boat.
I guess type of hulls, weight, etc make a difference.
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Thank guys,
So, the oxidising under the stainless fitting is due to disimilar metals in contact with each other without the protection of duralac
and the oxidisation around the transom rubber may be due to poor painting preparation in the first place.
More than likely, but don't kid yourself that by using duralac, gaskets, etc, you will never get corrosion again.
Stay with me:
Here's why-
Say your aluminium boat is built with all it's holes pre drilled/punched ready for fixtures once the painting is complete.
Then it gets cleaned, etch primed, primed, painted and set to bake in the booth to cure.
You now inspect the boats EXTERIOR paint finish that has just been completed and all looks good.
I can tell you now the paint on the FLAT horizontal surfaces will be way thicker than the paint on the FLAT vertical surfaces.
And the FLAT vertical surfaces the paint will be thicker than on the corners of panels.
And the CORNERS of panels will have thicker paint than the rim of mounting holes.
It's all due to gravity amongst other things.
Now that we know that the rim of the fasteners hole has the least paint.
When you put your hardware in place and screw/bolt your fastener in.
The threads from the fastener remove (breach)that very thin film of paint from the circumference of the hole exposing the bare alloy.
Pop rivets will do the same but are less severe as they are smoother than a threaded fastener obviously.
Once the salt laden air/water get behind the fittings it will work it's way into the bare aluminium buy working its way underneath the paint and start the corrosion process.
Using duralac and other products the same thing happens, once you secure your fittings you compromise the seal.
Using gaskets inbetween the alloy and the fitting the fitting and alloy are in effect seperated by the gasket but both remain in contact by the fasteners themselves that have breached that rim of that little hole when the fasteners were secured down.
You mention that you wash and dry your boat thoroughly.
Washing and drying your boat won't do anything unfortunately to prevent this,as im sure you will agree after having read the above.
I've tried to explain above to help you and others that may be unaware what causes these issues.
It's just the way it is owning a painted aluminium boat, among other reasons why I have an unpainted boat.
Hopefully this has helped clarify some of the causes of this issue.
If you need advice how to repair pm me and i'll gladly help you out.
Cheers.
I have to say here that there are lots of other fittings on the boat whch I susepect would be more likely to be exposed to salt water but they have remained unblemished.
I noticed these issues months ago and they have not gotten any worse.
I always wash and dry the boat thorougly after use.
All boat brand selection and loyalties aside my objectives here are;
1) to establish whether any of this can be put back on to Telwater
2) to understand what causes the corrosion.
3) to fix it using the best practices possible.
I would have no hesitation in removing every fitting in the boat and either aunimium rivetting it back on or using duralac as protection.
To that end you guys are being very helpful so keep it coming.
Cheers
Jim
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That's Corrosion, pitting of the aluminium underneath the paint in both photo, s AKA (Aluminium cancer).Hi Raiders,
Ok, here are the photos of the offending areas.
They are hi-res so click on them for better detail.
This stainless fitting is original.
Bubbling is also obvious on the transome next to the transom door... no dissimilar metals here.
What are your view boys?
First photo-If you pry off that dress plate exposing the mounting plate and both fasteners, you'll find that corrosion has started from the lower fasteners hole spreading like cancer outwards.
My guess, you have bare alloy exposed around the fasteners hole, with no barrier between the fitting and paint letting saltwater accumulate under the fitting and you end up with what you have.
Photo 2-Pull that rubber of the lip and have a look at the lip for chips, missing paint.
Some rubbers have a steel insert that corrode from exposure to air/salt which doesn't take long in a marine evironment.
The rust will burst through the rubber as it expands which will then rest on the painted lip.
It will eat through the paint to the bare alloy allowing moisture (saltwater) to get in causing the corrosion you have.
My unpainted quintrex is 3.5 years old now and all fittings either are welded or riveted from factory and is still like brand new with no corrosion.
My rod holders have sealant and rivets from factory.
My welds are like this.Cheers.
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That's why among other reasons I have a bare aluminium hull, It's inevitable that sooner or later your going to get scratches, flaking, peeling,etc on a painted hull.What I find completely astonishing with quintrex (telwater) is they use no primer on their paint systems and then offer no warranty on defects on the paint system when they are using the paint system outside of the specification and guidelines that are recommended by the paint suppliers. There should be no oxidisation on the paint system within the first year on a good paint system!
I don't know of any paint that can be applied to alloy that is primarily used in the saltwater environment with out any primer what so ever, and yet Telwater think is acceptable!
If your considering a Telwater boat and want it painted get someone else to do it. Their paint system is below 3rd world quality and completely unacceptable for the price of there vessels.
Our 475 Hornet was painted in ETec blue by a panel better using primer and it's was in the same condition when it was sold as when it was first painted with no oxidisation what so ever., Maybe 5-7 years later.....
Painted does look nice for a while though,and does cut down on the glare.
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Looks safer to me if you slide down the outside Windows of a sky scraper on a rainy day, atleast you'll have more width before going over the edge.
Come to think about it stopping could become an issue though. Lol.
But look on the bright side, you'll only go down once.
Cheers.
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Congrats mate, all you need now is a towbar fitted.
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Go down the end of Grays Point Rd, park your car and walk down the track onto grays point sand flats.Was here yesterday (28.06.2014) between 11-1, and it was extremely quiet, even the blokes on the boats had no luck. I took the chance to explore the area and found nice little secluded fishing spots at the end of Grays Point Road, where you can park your car and find little trails down to some ledges. Fish were better there but only hooked onto a bream worth taking home.
On the low tide you can pump yabbies at your feet and fish into the channel.
I've caught a few good bream, whiting and flathead at this spot in the past using the yabbies, peeled prawns, and squid strips when I use to fish shore based.
Early morning or late arvo/night seem to be the best times to fish the hacking.
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Try Lake Illawarra (Windang) also.
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To indicate that once the grease seeps out the hole you've pumped enough grease Into them, but the guys I've personally have seen need it printed in braile.So why is there a little hole indicator in the bearing buddy?
Like I said thanks for all the input from everyone, do what you think is best for "you".
That is what makes this site "Great"you can have a civilized discussion.
Hope you guys/girls all have a great weekend and while your out there fishing think of all the poor buggers like me working living the dream.lol.
Cheers.
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No worries mate, do what your doing if it works for you, no offence taken here from me.
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Fab. Hang on a minute. You said before (with pictures) that boat trailer bearing failures are from salt water entering the hub and then rusting bearings and I think that is the number 1 reason as well.
There's other reasons as well, rubbing a smear of grease on the outside of the bearings and not fully packing grease through the individual bearings and cages will destroy them very quickly too.
So will over tightening the castleated nut.
The system that I have explained I use with the bearing buddies is exactly the same and proven method every machine or whatever with a grease nipple on it uses. The old grease and grime comes out and new goes in.
Correct, but I dont see machines being drowned in the briny very often.
You are saying basically bearing buddies are no good because when you pump in grease you break the seal and water can then get in.
Bearing buddies are very good when installed correctly, if you don, t compromise the rear seal by pumping grease into them blowing out the seal.
Water gets in mine no doubt about it, but I reckon water gets in hubs without bearing buddies anyway so opening up a seal when you pump in grease is not a problem in my view.
You haven't answered what I asked before that if you really believe your closed up, non bearing buddy systems are completely sealed why are you guys recommending and changing bearings every year?
Can't answer for others, I do have bearing buddies fitted on my boat trailer and change the bearings every 6months regardless when I do my half yearly maintenance as it doesn't cost me anything.
They should last a very, very long time (lifetime) if they are sealed and nothing gets in.
The key here is (sealed).
You'll still get wear.
Then, if they are not fully sealed where does your argument with bearing buddies go as putting in new grease can only be a good thing?
Your only putting a bandaid on by doing this which is better than nothing but the cure is a teardown, replacement of bearings and seal.
If you think about it, having bearing buddies is no different to a closed hub, the only difference is that you can put in new grease to lube it and get some of the junk out that has salt in it.
I am thinking about it, getting that junk out that has salt in it has been caused by a seal failure, caused by the operator pumping grease into the bearing buddies needlessly.
Again nothing personal mate, im always open to peoples ideas, debates.
Anyway I think I might stay quiet on this now lol. They have worked for me so I'm happy and just use whatever method works for you I guess. Oh yeh and nothing personal at all Fab we are just discussing this
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Most wheel bearing failures are from owners over greasing and breaking the integrity of the rear bearing seal allowing road grime to enter the bearing and scoring the ball bearings themselves or the spindle.When a bearing is hand packed with grease, and assembled correctly, and the seals are tight, there is no reason at all to be pumping grease into the bearing more than once a year, if that. Especially if you have any sort of bearing buddies on the hubs. A lot of guys follow the old wives tale of using a grease gun every trip or every other trip and pump a few shots of grease into a hub. Reality is , you are doing more harm than good....if you started with good seals, after you finish pumping more grease in, you will do nothing but blow out the seals.Grease in a trailer bearing does not dissolve, does not evaporate, it goes nowhere....except when you decide to do some good and get out the grease gun.... (wrong ).......if the bearing is full of grease ( and it should be if packed properly ) the only place for the new grease to go is to take the path of least resistance, which is the rear seal. New grease in, old ( still perfectly good ) grease blows out the rear seal. Once this happens the first time, then you are committed to a cycle of losing grease thru the rear seal and pumping more in, not only that, you have now compromised the integrity of the bearing by allowing water/silt/sand to enter the bearing thru the blown seal, cutting the bearing lifespan considerably. Most people have no clue that they have blown out the rear seal, they just think the hubs use a lot of grease.I only know from what I've seen with my own experience with bearing buddies. I pump the grease in there every few trips and the old stuff comes out the rear seal. There is no doubt that the new grease is getting inside the bearings as I've inspected them after greasing and going for a quick drive. I don't care that it blows out the seal as long as there is new grease inside. I know its not a perfect system and there will still be traces of saltwater inside but there is enough good grease to keep the bearings in good shape and last. Well mine have.
I also think that any system will still get water inside it eventually anyway, and if blowing out the seal with bearing buddies is a problem and if you think other systems are completely sealed up why change the bearings every year then? They should last for a lifetime if no water gets inside considering how long car and truck bearings last and the km's they travel compared to the average boat trailer.
If the killer of boat trailer bearings is rust and pitting, then if a guy inspects his bearings and they look fine and no rust even if they are years old I don't see why he needs to spend money and change them for?
Just my views anyway
Everyone has there own choice to what they want to run but I have proven to myself that if treated right bearings can last a long time.
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put it this way, there,s no need to pump grease into them after they have been fitted.Please enlighten us how to use bearing buddies...
If your pumping grease into them once fitted, your grease is going somewhere yeah, usually strait out through the back seal.
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Just looked it up, its very interesting. It's almost like bearing buddies except it uses oil.
After lots of recommendations to use bearing buddies... all it has given me is grief and dramas, don't recommend them. As Ian mentions above, you can easily punch the rear seal, even if the grease has NOT come out of the hole that indicates it is full... engineering at its worst.
If you use dura hubs for a boat trailer, wouldn't the water entering the hub be misleading on the glass gauge?
Grease emulsifys when mixed with water when you get water intrusion into your bearings.
Oil filled hubs like durahubs you can see water in them through the sight glass floating above the oil as water and oil dont mix.
It amazes me people who pump grease into there bearing buddies every now and then what there reasoning behind it is.
Where do they think the grease that was in there went?
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I guess no one likes them on a boat trailer.
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hi mate, mine are welded on from factory as you can hopefully see in this picture.Thats an AWESOME setup, this has definitely given me some things to think about, thanks Fab1. its made me wonder if relocating the bullbar rod holders i have in the rear left of the boat to somewhere else like the yours on the rear thwart, only a bit more to the left as i sit on the right side and that space is vacant, freeing up the rear left for a rod holder like yours hmmm.
how did you fasten the hand rails to your hull? did you use some sort of silicone or epoxy or something between the rail and the hull or umm i dont know ?
As far as im aware I think you can purchase rails then have them fitted.
I know you can get them made up and welded.
The first thing I'd put in that boat of yours is a flat floor built from plywood and carpeted.
There's nothing like a flat floor in a small boat.
Then you can add things like baitboards, rod holders, hatches, live wells etc.
I did some digging for some photo's to give you some ideas what can be done.
Here you go.
these are just some of the 100, s of things you can do with an open boat and some funds.Good luck mate, hopefully others will help you out with their ideas also.
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Hi Mate, my boat is similar to yours except it's a run about.
The key in a small boat is having a place for everything at hand and out the way so you don't trip over anything or damage anything.
Here I've cut away my rear thwart for extra dry storage and put a hinged lid.I removed the floatation and put full underfloor floatation under the floor from stern to bow and added home made rod holders to carry my rods underway.
Here I made a baitboard mounted to the siderail that slides and folds on the rail which drains over the side for extra burly and carrys my knifes, pliers, etc.
Works a treat.
Under that I mounted a diy quick release system for my net/yabby pump.
On the port side I mounted rod holders.
Heres the inside of the boat, uncluttered with everything I need at hand.
Note the adjustable rod holders on the rails and in the rear transom corners.
All these things work a treat for me and I hope it's given you some ideas.
Cheers.
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Fair enough mate.Nah no offence at all mate u probably know more about trailer bearings than me I would say.
In my case I know for a fact that my bearings get salt water on them every time I dunk it. The thing is they are in good nick and not noisy after 10 years of use. I do pump some grease in them every few trips and they always stay lubed.
IMO most failures come from letting the bearings get dry.
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Thanks mate, he's my father inlaw.
I love spending the time with him that he has left and listening to all of his story's.
He, s had 1 lung since catching pneumonia back in Christchurch when he was 20 and 2 knee reconstructions also mate.
Sadly my wife, son and I spend more time helping him and his wife out and visiting than his other 4 children do.
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Good on you! One mans trash is another mans treasure.
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Speaking of taking things for granted, I think we all need to take time to smell the roses.
Just yesterday we had a gathering at my father-in-laws for his 75th birthday.
He, s an animal lover from way back and loves to feed the wild birds every morning and evening.
Whilst the invasion of wild rainbow lorikeets was happening, I went inside to call the young ones out to watch,"I've seen birds before" was the reply I got.
Heres a couple of shots.
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Hi Roylo, please don't take this the wrong way.If the original bearings look ok and they were not noisy then I would put them back in. Why not there is nothing wrong with them.
I have been running the same bearings for 10 years now and they are still going well. The trick is to keep them greased. If there is grease on them I can't see how they would get rusted or fail for a very long time.
Replace those bearings.
Bearings on boat trailers are notorious for getting water in them as we all know, usually from water getting in due to a bad seal/incorrect installation or dunking them into the drink while still hot.
Most of us fish the salt and as we all know is very corrosive.
Once that saltwater gets in it emulsyfies with the grease thinning it out.
This grease containing moisture (saltwater) is now all the way through your hub, bearings, races.
Alot of that water will evaporate with the heat generated in your hub/bearings while traveling leaving a much higher concentration of salt mixed with the grease.
Once you park up your rig your bearings that are coated in that saltwater slurry will start to rust, the more it sits the worse the problem becomes.
They will eventually become pitted, start to rumble and eventually fail.
these bearings are gone.so is this.blue tinge on bearing on right sure sign of lack of lubrication or improper adjustment causing overheating and loss if temper.Always check the undersides of your stub axles for cracking, this is where they will go first.This is just pure neglect and looks like captain cook was the last one to give them a service.Cheers.
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My welds are like this.
these are just some of the 100, s of things you can do with an open boat and some funds.
these bearings are gone.
so is this.
blue tinge on bearing on right sure sign of lack of lubrication or improper adjustment causing overheating and loss if temper.
Always check the undersides of your stub axles for cracking, this is where they will go first.
This is just pure neglect and looks like captain cook was the last one to give them a service.
God help us all
in The Bar
Posted
Hi guys,
Driving to work this arvo I pulled up alongside a tradies work ute at a red light that was towing a enclosed trailer.
I had the pleasure of watching this imbecille swerve all over the place trying to keep his rig in his lane for atleast 3kays prior to stopping beside him at the light.
While I was following him trying to catch up to grab his attention, I noticed his left rear tyre was almost flat with barely any tread.
As I came up along side him, I looked at his hitch that to my amazement was attached by only 1 safety chain secured with a black cable tie and the other safety chain disconnected and dragging on the road.
To make things worse the idiot had the trailers backing lever engaged which meant he had no brakes.
Any way when I got along side him I grabbed his attention and told him what I'd seen and if he would pull over before he kills himself or someone else I would pump his tyre up and give him two rated shackles and he'd be on his way.
You know what this morons responce was?
xxxx that, I haven't got time for that xxxx.
Then the light turned green and he took off swerving all over the place again.
As the title says, God help us if this is the sort if brain dead idiots on our roads.
Cheers.
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