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Fab1

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Posts posted by Fab1

  1. 3 hours ago, Howdoweplaythis said:

    I used to work in a large outdoor store (I can't mention which due to forum rules). We used to have the PCV ones and they were absolute rubbish. We got so many complaints about them they got recalled. 

    My dad bought a Wilson yabby pump before I was born. It lasted for over 20 years before it finally died. I replaced it with another Wilson one. Can't speak for Alvey pumps because I've never used one but the stuff they make is generally pretty indestructible. 

    Those PVC ones get flogged  out pretty quick with the abrasiveness of the sand plunged back/forth.Wilson/Alvey you'll buy once if you look after them.I service mine every season but I have OCD.

  2. 18 hours ago, Welster said:

    Generally , I think , most people would maintain a slightly bent over stance while pumping and what I found with the long pumps is its harder to get them to clear the hole when you are shooting the sand/mud out. If you don't get back up almost vertical then the pump catches on the hole all the time and interrupts the rhythm

    As I was reading this paragraph I thought I was on that weird site again.?

  3. 3 minutes ago, TK01 said:

    Thanks Fab1 and Zoran

    I'll have a read of those links later.

    I agree that he did a crappy job.  He certainly talked a good game and is a professional smash repairer, but he did it for cash and obviously didn't care about the end result.  I was furious about it for a while but have moved on now and just want to get on with it.

    There are quite a few scratches around the boat which is mostly because I have no qualms about bumping into trees/jetties/oyster leases when I'm out on the water.  It is a fishing boat after all and was never intended to win a beauty contest.

    My concern with your suggestion Fab1 is that I know there are areas all over the hull, particularly inside the bow and on the outside of the transom that were rubbed back to bare metal before the respray, and they haven't been etched.  If I was to just leave that paint on now and do as you suggest, I'm worried that it might only be a matter of time before these issues crop up again.

    I'm thinking maybe I should just deal with the patches now and clock up a few hundred more hours on the outboard and then upgrade to a new boat in a couple of years.

    Oh and re the fuel filler.  It's all aluminium and held down with aluminium rivets.  The cap, I think, is chrome plated brass.  Never had corrosion issues in that area before the respray.  Again this is a part that was bare metal and not etched (or properly cleaned is my assumption).

     

    If it hasn't been etched problems will arise in future.Like Zoran said,don't worry too much and go fishing until the time comes to sell.Then decide to either sell it as is or pretty it up with some spot repairs.Otherwise to fix it properly your looking at a full re-spray.

    Good luck with it.

  4. I have to be honest and say that is a terrible paint job mate.The photo of what looks like the gunnel hasn't even got proper paint coverage(Looks like it was painted with thinned liquid paper) adjacent to the bubbling.

      That fuel filler surround that is riveted looks like steel in the photo?And that powdery looking stuff adjacent to that looks like Galvonic corrosion.

    Not to mention he did a terrible job of controlling cleanliness prior to and during the paint application judging by all the solid inclusions in the paint(Looks like it was painted in a sand Storm).I'm guessing he didn't use prepsol or a tackrag or filtered his paint.

    Another thing I can't help notice is there's more than a few chips and scrapes on that boats paint?What you'll find will happen is the chips get wet with  saltwater,the saltwater eventually works it's way under the paint chips edge and under,then the water slowly dries leaving behind the salt which will expand under the paint and there's your bubbling paint as it's lost all its adhesion with the aluminium.

    If I where to fix that mess I would first determine if infact there is dissimilar metals around the fuel cap.I would repair those dents and hit the whole existing paintwork with 180 wet/dry feathering all edges/chips.spot spray any bare alloy with etch primer than hit the lot with 2 full coats of polyester.Rub back with 320 wet/dry then 800 wet/dry and hit it with 2-3 full coats of basecoat colour followed by 2 good coats of clear all in 2k of course.

    That's what I would do if I wanted it fixed properly.

    Otherwise you can spot repair and colour match blending into existing paintwork.

  5. 2 hours ago, zmk1962 said:

    Hi TK01,

    I don't own an alloy boat but have some experience with painted alloy as the pod and marlin board on my boat are alloy...I agree the pull apart and refit are probably as big a job as the prep and painting. That's why when I changed over the motor I took the opportunity to have the pod repainted - I used a car smash repairer to sand blast, etch prime and 2 pack spray the pod while still mounted to the boat. But after 17yrs of use I now have the inevitable dings and scratches and some blistering paint spots... I am not really concerned as to me its largely an aesthetic thing.

    Are you concerned that without paint your boat will corrode quicker?  From my perspective, there are many bare alloy boats out there - infact most commercial fisherman, oyster farmers etc run bare alloy. The alloy itself produces a dull coating (oxidisation) that in general prevents further corrosion. Its this oxidisation process that is blistering your paint...but it is also protecting the underlying metal. So I don't think any real damage has been done to the hull by flaking paint. The damage usually comes from electrolysis/galvanic corrosion where you have non alloy metals in contact with the hull eg: fittings to the hull that are incorrectly mounted without sealants inbetween, or old sinkers lying in contact with the alloy hull - and that type of corrosion can even happen where you drill through painted surfaces. Or from acidic liquids sitting in contact with the alloy for prolonged periods - this can manifest as a pinhole or cheese cloth perforated area on the alloy.

    So maybe scrape away some of the flaking and have a good look at the underlying alloy as I think the first thing you would want to be comfortable with is that the boat structure has not been compromised.

    Perhaps some raiders with bare alloy boats can chip in and share their experiences !

    Once comfortable with that, evaluate do you like the boat, the way it handles and does it meet your fishing requirements? If it does maybe lean toward keeping it. 

    Regarding aesthetics, if you want to minimize the work but are concerned about aesthetics have you considered:

    1) work around the fit out and go back to bare alloy

    2) go bare alloy bottom of hull and paint top sides

    Anyway, I feel for ya! ... putting in so much work into your pride and joy  and being let down by the guy you hired must feel like the pits.

    Best of luck.

    Zoran

     

    Well said mate.In my opinion bare alloy is the way to go like Zoran said.I bought and kept my tinny bare alloy for many reasons mentioned.The thing to remember is to run all earth's through a busbar or directly to the battery negative to prevent issues such as electrolysis.Keeping dissimilar metals seperate from your hull will prevent Galvonic corrosion also.

      As for what to do in your case only you can decide on that one.Too many people are focused on how things look these days instead of functionality (Nothing wrong with that)I can't be bothered impressing anyone and  choose the later to prevent the headaches you are experiencing.

    Without any photos it's almost impossible to help you more than that.

    Chuck some photos up and let us see if we can help further.

  6. 12 hours ago, Noo2OzFish said:

    LOL Fab

     

    Yes I'm still looking mate.  I went away on holidays for a while so stopped then but,, I'm back.   Not looking for the perfect boat just a fair boat for a fair price that is going to get us out fishing

     

    Bear

    13 hours ago, Noo2OzFish said:

    Just bear in mind that you have Galvonic corrosion and electrolysis which can both effect aluminium boats.The sinkers,hooks etc underfloor will cause Galvonic corrosion eating the hull in the vicinity of where they lay which is caused by dissimilar metals combined with saltwater and effect a small area if caught early.

    Electrolysis is caused by a stray current continually running through the hull.It will effect the entire boat mainly from the waterline to the keel which will turn the boat into a colander in no time.

    If some dimwit(including dealers)has earthed the negative battery terminal to the hull is probably the most common cause for it.Another place it tends to happen is marinas where a nearby boat can be putting out a current which will travel through the water effecting nearby boats.

  7. 1 hour ago, Noo2OzFish said:

    I'm asking this specifically regarding a Savage 480 Osprey,, but in reality it could just about be applied to any Aluminum boat.  When looking at older Aluminum boats say the 1970's 80's and I suppose 90's are there things to specifically look out for?   I hear about corosion from sinkers, hooks and the like floundering around in the hull.   I find it hard to believe after 30 years or so that no sinkers or hooks are under the floor now.    Is this a real problem?  Other than pulling the floor and vaccuming or rolling the hull over is there anything that can be done?  

     

    Bear

    Are you still looking for that elusive "perfect" second hand boat?All the same rules apply to alloy boats regardless the vintage mate.If the sinkers, hooks haven't eaten through the hull in the last 30 yrs I'd be thinking that your safe to say there's none under the floor to worry about.The answer to your last question is yes,buy a brand new boat or a fibreglass and juggle through a whole new host of issues that come with them if your that worried.

  8. On 5 October 2017 at 2:47 PM, Fishop said:

    Sorry if this has been covered but i did some searching and i couldn't find a straight answer.

    Google shows me 1 1/16" is the size of the nut.  Is that 26 or 27mm metric?  Or should I stick to imperial in this case.

    Thanks!

     

    1 1/16 is nearly 27mm.

    If you have a six point socket in 27mm it will get it off.

    A 12 point socket may round the nut.

  9. 4 hours ago, ARC H said:

    Cheers for replys 

    we would have sewing machine oil at home so will try that.

    only thing is it wont remove greases that are meant to be on reels will it?You want to use grease on your reels gears and oil on it's bearings.You only need a drop of oil in each bearing and on your bail roller.

     

  10. 11 minutes ago, BIGG DADDA TREVS said:

    I have an enquiry about blue nose bream, whether I've been poorly informed or misidentified a fish. Last year I caught a bream in the hawkesbury river that went 48cm, I thought it was just a bream as I was just starting fishing and didn't know of any other species of bream. Later, looking back at the photos is identified it as a bluenose bream. Just wandering if the bluenose bream is counted as a different species as I couldn't find it in the records section. Thx

    Mature bream when they reach a certain length/size develop a bluish colouring around the mouth area giving them the name of blue nose bream.Smaller/infant bream lack this marking.Your one at 48cm carried that blue nose for years as I've caught them in the low 30's with the marking and bream are a fairly slow growing fish.

  11. An elderly couple made a deal that whoever died first would
    somehow come back to inform the other of the afterlife.
    Their biggest fear was that there really was no heaven.
    After a long life, the husband was the first to go and, true to
    his word, a few weeks later as his wife sat and watched TV, she heard a
    ghostly voice saying, "Maude... Maude ... "

    "Is that you, John?" she asked as she looked in vain around the room.
    he voice responded, "Yes Maude, I've come back just like we agreed."
    "What's it like, John?" Maude asked.
    John said, "Well, I get up in the morning and I have sex. Then I
    have breakfast, and after that more sex. I bathe in the sun for a
    while and then I have sex twice. I have lunch, then have sex pretty much

    all afternoon. After dinner I have sex until late at night and the next
    day it starts all over again."
    "Oh, John," Maude said, "then surely you must be in heaven!"
    "Not exactly," John said. "I'm a rabbit somewhere near Dubbo.

  12. 3 hours ago, Regan said:

    hahaha poor old man  :D

    Good one.

    2 hours ago, COASTIE 01 said:

    At a fabric store, a pretty girl spots a nice material and asks the male clerk: How much does it costs? Only one kiss per yard replied the male clerk with a smirk. that’s fine said the girl. I’ll take ten yards. With expectation and anticipation written all over his face, the clerk quickly measured out the cloth, wrapped it up, and then teasingly held it out. The girl took the bag and pointed to the old man standing beside her, and smiled, Grandpa will pay the bill.

    The girl should of asked for 50meters.

  13. A man had great tickets for the State of Origin Final.

    As he sits down, another man comes down and asks if anyone is sitting in the seat next to him.

    "No", he says. "The seat is empty".

    This is incredible!" said the man. "Who in their right mind would have a seat like this for the State of Origin, the biggest sporting event in Australia, and not use it?"

    He says, "Well, actually, the seat belongs to me. My wife was supposed to come with me, but she passed away. This is the first State of Origin we haven't been to together since we got married."

    "Oh ... I'm sorry to hear that. That's terrible. But couldn't you find someone else, a friend or relative, or even a neighbour to take the seat?"


    The man shakes his head. "No. They're all at the funeral."

  14. 8 hours ago, anthman said:

    Hi guys, I'm looking at a second hand boat (Quintrex 450 estuary angler) and it comes with a 60hp bigfoot. This is the first time I've come across this variant and from my research it seems to be a design made for pontoon boats / house boats. I can see some forum members have this engine on their boats (jewgaffer, maybe you can weigh in here), however on other forums there are furious debates over poor performance when putting this engine on a conventional boat rather than a pontoon or heavily encumbered boat. 

    Given the hull type, would you expect issues with planing, handling and speed? (Ive read top end speed is lower compared to an equivalent HP 4 stroke without bigfoot). Should I stay away and look for something else?

    Also, I had a peak at the engine and saw some salt buildup or is this corrosion? What part is this and should I be worried?

    Intended use would be for fishing, of course, two people seated at the front of the boat when moving and  upto 5 people for bringing friends and family along (with less gear in that case). Forward controls if that helps with describing weight distribution of the people.

    Thank you all!

    20171001_132422.jpg

    Jewgaffer passed away a few years ago mate.

  15. 19 hours ago, recurve said:

    Rule 1: Avoid Spikes

    Rule 2: Avoid spikes from brightly coloured fish even more.

    Rule 3: If in doubt, dont handle it.

    Flathead have spikes above thr back of their gills. These hurt like a ××××××××××××. Use a decent rag when handling. 

    Rule 4:Avoid putting fingers near/in fishes mouth/gills as they can give you nasty bites/Cuts.

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