Fab1

When and if she does I'll just have to remind her who the boss is in this household.I'll then quietly gather my things to sleep in the shed with the dogs for a couple of days. I bet it will teach her not to mess with me. I see the same thing mate.You'd think that when the gunnels are 3 inches above the waterline common sense would send alarm bells ringing.

Have you got a photo of your wheel and buddy so we can see what your talking about?

I'd just be happy with small legal fish in my 50 Lt esky.

Remove your bearing buddies first with a block of wood and hammer which will expose your castellated nut and split pin for removal. Have you done bearings before?

If your worried leave the wheel attached to the hub and just remove the castellated nut and pull the assembly off as a unit. You really need to give them a good whack to free them from the hub with a block of wood or hammer. If they're really stuck gentle heat persuasion often helps. In future anti-seize or a luck of grease on the hubs flange works wonders to eliminate what your dealing with. I have a post up on changing wheel bearings if you need help. Goodluck.

When you look at your compliance plate of your boat in regards to it's MAXIMUM carrying ability,please keep in mind of a few things. Here's the compliance plate of my boat. The Maximum hp is 40 and 120kg engine on the transom. Im running a 30hp that weighs around 57kg-67kg From memory Which is within spec. The Maximum people is 4 at 300kg MAXIMUM.(Based on 75kg per person). I weigh 122.7kg,my son 90.4kg and my wife 73.8kg as per our digital scales at our last weigh in around 2 weeks ago for a total combined weight of 286.9kg leaving 13.1kg allowable weight for a 4th person if my math is correct. As you can see from my compliance plate the MAXIMUM people,engine and cargo weight is 480kg. Now let's combine the weight of my engine at that higher figure of 67kg and the weight of myself,wife,son. 67kg+286.9=353.9kg leaving 126.1kg to spare. That's just the weight of us and the outboard taken into account. Remember I still in this example need to add the weight of my Fuel,anchors,rope,sounder,rod holders,clothes,fire extinguisher,bait board,tackle box,esky,tools etc,etc,etc. All these things eat into that spare 126.1kg I had as they all weigh something. As you can see I'm well within weight specs on engine and transom weight but right up there in people weight and with a hefty 4th person I'd be well and truly overloading my boat causing safety concerns and poor handling not to mention the consequences of being caught. Hopefully this gives a few people something to think about and I'm off to the hospital to find an infant that weighs 13.1kg so I can say I had 4 people in my boat. Thanks for reading.

It will make a huge difference to your confidence.Good Luck!Remember not to overload your boat also as tempting as it may be for obvious safety reasons.

It's a feed,well done!

Ideally yes,try to keep the bow into them at 45deg.Small boats can capsize or sink when hit from the sides or the stern. I have a 4.2m tinny with a low transom and need to be careful getting hit from behind even by big wake from sports cruisers etc.

Try to not let them hit you side on.Ideally you want to hit them at around a 45deg angle with the bow of your boat. If your new to boating try to travel light and ease into different situations to gain confidence in a small boat. Cheers.

The male trailer plug has slots cut in the 7 pins which can be opened a little with something thin to give better contact in the female plug. I usually just push a store/credit card into the slots as it opens them up perfectly I found. With both the female/male plugs make sure the pins,wires,screws are clean and tight to give the best electrical connection possible. My issue was the end cap had separated from the glass causing an intermittent fault with the brake lights. FIXES- 1: No power at one or all car trailer plug terminals when testing. -Check ground for cars trailer plug has good clean contact and wiring is intact. -Open car plug and check all wires terminals are clean and tight with no breakages. -Trace wire/s back to vehicles wiring harness splice/plug and check again for power. -Check all soldered joins,connectors are secure. -If there's power at the vehicle harness but not at the plug the wiring from the plug has most likely got an internal break or has a short. 2:No power at one or all trailer plug when testing. -Check car plug terminals for power. -Open trailer plug and check wires,terminals and screws are clean and tight. -If there's power at the car terminals you have broken/loose Terminal/s. 3:No power at trailer light bulb holders. -Check for power at trailer plug. -Examine lights for loose/corroded rivets/terminals. -Wiring may be corroded/damaged in between the tail lights and plug.(In this case I'd check for continuity from the trailer light wiring to the trailer plug with a multimeter). -Lights may have corroded internals. There's a heap of other things that can be tested like checking for voltage drops which usually indicate corroded or broken strands of wire but these basics will give you somewhere to start. If the trailer wiring is corroded to far it's often easier to just replace it. Hope this helps some one out as trailer lighting issues are quite common. cheers.

Hi guys,I have just fixed an issue with one of my stop lights working intermittently on my trailer and have a few tips to share for those of you that may be experiencing electrical issues with your trailer. Most electrical issues on boat trailers stem from either blown fuses,bad grounds,blown bulbs,corroded/broken terminals,shorts in wiring where they've rubbed through,Loose terminals,fasteners etc. Always check your fuses and bulbs thoroughly before advancing to checking the circuits with a test light. All the simple tests I'll conduct using a simple inexpensive 12v test light although you can use a multimeter also. To determine if there's an issue with the cars trailer plug or wiring you want to test the female plug on the car first. In this example I have the ignition on in the car and have switched the right indicator on.What I have done is clipped the test light to a ground/earth, in this case the tow bar and touched each and every pin with the test light until I found power indicated by the flashing test light telling me there's power to the right turn signal. Repeat the process for the remainder of the terminals to find if the left indicator,stop lamps,parkers have power. (When testing the indicators the test light will flash in sequence with the tail lights on the car,where as the stop,parkers etc will keep the test light illuminated). Lets say the cars trailer plug passed all the tests on each of the terminals ,now you'd remove the cover on the male end of the trailer plug and plug it into the female plug on the car and repeat the tests again. This time on the male end of the terminals like this.As you can see the test light is lit up indicating there's power and all other terminals tested positive also. Now I'll move on to the contacts at the lights themselves and test for power across both contacts.As you can see I've got power across the bulb holder terminals. A tip for you guys with incandescent trailer lights is to solder the bulbs onto the bulb holders using a butane cigarette lighter and solder as it stops them from vibrating loose and losing contact like I do if you don't want to go the led route. Cont pt 2. cheers.

Forgot the photo.That's the cheapest simplest solution. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum Kaneo. You can notch out your ply to fit around the ribs with a jigsaw,fit some marine grade carpet and have the floor removable if you want or fix it down with screws or make up an ally frame pop riveted together. If you don't have access to a welder you can use a propane torch and aluminium brazing rods to braze the joins also. It depends what tools/materials you have access to and how much you want to spend really. Do a search as this subject has been done to death and There's plenty of ideas and options. Cheers.

Pm sent.

Drill the existing rivets out using a suitable drill bit,clean up bung/bunghole with acetone,apply sikaflex sealant and reinstall using alloy rivets. To make undoing the bungs easier in future,smear a dab of Vaso on the bungs O ring. Cheers.

Grab them with a pair of pliers/vice grips and twist and pull hard and they should come off(Pad the jaws first).You can get underneath them with a pick/nail or small screwdriver and prise them off also. Heat like Zoran said will help soften them if needed. If you have to resort to cutting them off don't worry as they can be bought or just run a length of vacuum/fuel line from bleeder to bleeder. Cheers.

Thanks mate.I did see your post above and was using a wet terry toweling cloth to keep my baits cool while on the board but had to be careful while under way everything didn't fly off. My intensions with this idea is have my bait for immediate use such as pillys already cut in half stored in trays in the tray and simply lift the lid to grab one when re-baiting.The same thing with my strip baits,prawns etc.The board will stay clear at all times other than when I'm preping my baits and the bulk of my bait will stay frozen in my esky until needed. Also I don't want a transom mounted bait board as I have a Manual Tilt n Trim outboard that I need to get to at times. I did make some high sides for the board out of 50x50 ally if I want to remove the strips and install those instead. will see how it goes and as usual I can change things around if need be.

Thanks mate.The strips around the sides are there to contain the bait juices which I'll keep for making berley later.They drain through the holes in the bait board into the tin. Cheers,I like to make things easier on myself and try to think outside the box. Thanks mate.Some would say I have to many ideas.My mrs knows where to find me...In the shed.

After a bit of cutting,drilling and shaping she's all done.I couldn't help myself and made a tool holder for the things I use also. Im happy with the results. Cheers.

Very well put mate. I for one look forward to seeing what you've made.In regards to that side console boat you made I wish I had patented it with you. Are you using a Phone or desktop to post?

Fantastic report Ash!Sounfs like the family had a blast and a great feed there also. I love the beauty of the port.It feels like your miles from civilisation in places like the upper reaches of the Swa. The folk that live there are very lucky indeed.

I hear you mate,I wish I could get out as much as you guys.

It's nice setting your boat up to how you like it mate and you have everything you need there. I salt or brine my bait also but still like to store it in the freezer and keep it in my esky when on the boat.The reason I like the board over hanging the gunnel is i find it gives me more room inside the boat plus the mess just washes off over the side into the drink as on a small boat like mine you want as much room as possible. And the tray will be handy for storing my bait for immediate use as opening and closing the Esky will be minimised containing the cold inside. Ill try to make it by the weekend if I have time and see how it goes and can always change things around. Cheers.