zmk1962
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Posts posted by zmk1962
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Been years since I fished for Hairtail. I used a single 8/0 on the end of a wire trace with a big keyring about 3 feet up. Fitted a running sinker on the line tied off to the keyring. Used live yakkas pinned behind the head through the shoulder before the fin and lowered them down maybe 12-15ft. The trick i discovered was to use a 6 to 7ft rod with a VERY whippy tip (but a solid butt section) and the hairtail would hook themselves.
Looking at how the rod tip behaved.... this is what I suspect used to happen:
Hairtail can only swim vertically - up or down. They strike the yakka silhouetted against the sky from underneath (rod tip would lift)... and I suspect they chomp on the yakka a few times to pierce it with those pointy fangs so its basically paralyzed (tip would be twitching and bending about 6inches - very gently - strike now and you lose the fish)...... They then mouth the yakka and swallow it head first as they turn and point their toothy head back to the bottom and head down (rod tip loads up and arcs nicely and when the drag starts to bite all hell breaks looose!). All the Hairtail I caught had the yakka head down in their throat and gill area and the yakka was pierced all over. My whippy stick outfished any stiffer rod on any night as it had the give to let the hairtail take its time.
So long story short, consider that if this is how the hairtail feed and eat, your float would be pulling the pillie from the hairtail mouth as its trying to "paralyse" the pillie or swallow it (maybe try a lighter streamlined float)....also if you are using a pillie they are going to try to eat it head first... running gang hooks the traditional way you would for the slow retrieve for tailor or salmon works against being swallowed head first. Maybe if you know hairtail are around, chuck out a pillie baited ganged up in reverse - so it would retrieve tail first - but it would slip down a hairtail throat more easily.
Anyway, just some thoughts.
BTW if you are wodering about the keyring - it was an easy way to boat the hairtail as you could hook your finger through the keyring and lift.
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The hull shape looks very much like a Savage Avalon (google and look at images). But the top side is quite different though. May have had some custom work.
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This post is late but may provide some historical explanation regarding Currumbene Creek classified as a bar crossing on some documents.
My first trip to Jervis Bay was to Callala and Huskisson around 1978 - at that time there was a rock shelf at the entrance to Currumbene Creek. It ran at right angles out from the shore behind the Husky RSL club and extended about 20m into the channel.
This meant to get in or out, after lining up with the markers, you had to make a dash parallel to Callala beach - this water is shallow!!!! If there was a bit of a swell or bit of surf, then you had to time your parallel run so that you did not end up bottoming out or getting hit side on by the waves - or BOTH! Coming in with the waves behind you (even 3 footers) was interesting to say the least. This was pretty much a bar crossing and boats were rolled by the surf regularly. I first got my hands on a boat in the 80s and made that crossing in a Quintriex Fishabout with a 40HP Mariner several times and clearly remember lining up with the other boats to wait my turn!!!
In the 1985-1990 timeframe the rock shelf was blasted and the mouth of Currambene Ck was dredged - hence today you see the wooden warf and the sizeable whale watching vessels and even some yachts now in Currambene creek.
This certainly has made boating much safer - but as a fisho, I can tell you there was no better place to catch monster tailor than behind old Husky pub, in the dark with the moon out and the surf breaking on the rock ledge and the foam floating across into Currambene Creek. Casting pillies on gangs (no weight) toward Callala and slow retrieving through the foam was sheer adrenaline time. During the day, this spot was a local "hot" luderick spot as well. Sadly all that disappeared after the rock ledge was gone.
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Me and a few mates will be staying in Jervis Bay from tomorrow till Wednesday and wondering where should we go? My first choice will be some pelagic action but if condition doesn't permit then the good old bream and flathead would be okay as well. I'm also a big fan of squidding so where can I possibly catch a few? I will also take my missus there and told/sold her this is not just a fishing trip so I need to spend some time with her doing non-fishing activity. ;-) I don't know what to do and where should I take her? She likes yummy food and enjoys activities that don't involve too much physical input so basically she's lazy and just wouldn't stop eating LOL
I wanted to carry her on the back of my PA and do a bit of exploring... maybe the Basin? I was busy lately so only just started doing a bit of research. Hopefully you guys can help me out especially the locals... thanks!!!! P.S. We will be staying in Callala Bay and there are four of us (3 Hobies PA & 1 Malibu).
From memory you have to drive back to the highway to head to StG Basin, or Huskisson or Vincentia.
Can recommend the StoneGrill at Huskisson, also the good old Husky Pub has had a revamp and we had some really good food there. Lots of cafe's along that little walk. If you take your missus to Husky about mid afternoon - pop down to see the Aboriginal Museum and the Lady Denham (I think that's the ferry's name) - just as you enter Husky 2nd street after the servo (again from memory - watch for the signs to be sure). There is a sea water enclosure there with a couple of wharves - left over from when that used to be a shipbuilding site - its pretty interesting. Bring along some old bread - or pay for some chook pellets there and feed the "monster" bream, flatties, snapper (>1m), kings etc trapped in there - it's not fishing but is fish related ...even your missus will have FUN! You can then have dinner afterward further into husky - maybe talk about the fish he he he!
If missus is a bit more adventurous, suggest you go down into the national park - marked as Jervis Bay Territory - go see the old ruined lighthouse. Spectacular views. There is really good write up of the history of that lighthouse. Some 180ships perished on that bit of coastline - makes you appreciate what the settlers went through... just be aware that the major roads in the National park are sealed but most of the side road to the lighthouse is unsealed. There are a number of beaches in that are that are spectacular white sand beaches.
Also, you might want to head a few more clicks down the road to the southern tip of the bay - missus can enjoy the National park scenery and you can check out Murray's beach boat ramp. Its the closest launch to the heads and fishing Middle Ground and around Bowen island is like a 1-2km trip from that boat ramp. Have not been there for years so I am not sure of the state of the ramp, but it used to have a wharf tucked in behind the breakwater.
Enjoy.
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Hi all, jut got myself a gopro hero 3 and wanted to know what programs are people using for editing ect. Had a look on the gopro website and they had a free one, but for some reason I couldn't download it.
Also what battery length are you getting? Couldn't find any info online. I've got to recording now and it's got one bar left on battery, and been recording for 2 & 1/2 hrs.
Cheers Luke
When I was running "Windose" I used Corel VideoStudio Pro X3.
Have been on Apple for 2yrs now and use iMovie. Also started playing with video clip editing on iPad2 - and just purchased Pinnacle Studio also by Corel.
Good luck!
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Hey Guys, went out early Tuesday to try and start my Kingy campaign. Had plenty of squid in the tank early and so I thought things were looking pretty good. Man was I wrong. I tried everything, every marker, every reef, trolling, drifting, whole live squid, squid strips, berley.
Went outside up to Blue Fish Point. Did not even see a fish on the sounder. Was going to go to Long Reef but was getting low on fuel from all the moving around. I don't profess to be a Kingy Guru but I can normlaly hold my own and fill my esky on most occasions. No surface action anywhere either.
The 20 minute drive home with the boat on the trailer felt like 2 hours. Don't think it's happening in the Harbour yet unfortunately. I even ended up releasing two of the squid I had caught back into the kelp to be a Kingy candy for another day and maybe some good karma with the fishing Gods for the next trip.
You are in good company for what its worth. Spent Sunday in MH around the usual haunts, downrigged w squid at all depths, went to SH and a few km down coast and back. Lots of bait balls (LOTS !!!) arches all around them, then tried NH. Donuts all around. Water temp 23degC.
I think that's why its called fishing and not "harvesting". For me it was a 1hr drive home lost in my thoughts.
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Thanks, that made my afternoon...I promise I was laughing with you, not at you..
No probs (even though I heard you)... It was just one of those once in a lifetime moments I guess.
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Thanks guys,
I have now started looking at the GME G Series which i had not even considered before.
At what depth do you think the G Series 600Watt 50/200khz transducer will be accurate too. I noticed that the Lowrance Elite-5 DSI reads the bottom to 76meters, so this may not accurately read all the bottom at the peak? (yes i know there is more than just the bottom to read) But to head up to the next Lowrance it appears i would need the HDS-5 Gen 2 which gets up there price wise as i need to then purchase a Navionics card.
I do like the option of sticking with one brand (GME combo, epirb and VHF radio) as i understand you can have the radio talk to the GPS combo in case of emergency.
Has anyone actually used the GME G Series? and what is your thoughts?
Thanks
I don't have experience with the GME G series, but I'm glad you're starting to narrow it down as you build up the list of features that you want to have. So far I have noted, for Sounder: Colour screen, >76m (250ft) max depth, dual frequency; and for GPS: NMEA In/Out (thats the GPS signal input and output capability that allows you to connect to other devices). I would suggest you build out this must have list of features for the GPS/Souder combo.
Start a similar list of must have features for your VHF set (So far DSC - Digital Selective Calling, and NMEA in/out).
Its only when you have that clarity that you can start to shop for the bargain combination. It's a trade off.
At this stage I would not be to fussed about buying the same brand (unless you feel you can negotiate a better deal) - as long as your sets support the interfaces and the international standards for the data that you wish to exchange you should be ok - and you can check for that compatibility online before you buy.
Eg. I found the wiring diagram to connect my Standard Horizon Explorer GX1600 VHF with my Eagle Seacharter 642c DF before I purchased the GX1600. BTW, the Seacharter has a max depth of 457m/1500ft. I have sounded down to 500+m but the 5inch screen makes it hard to be really effective (even with "bottom zoom" enabled - yet another feature to consider!!) so in my case the screen is a compromise. Nevertheless hasn't stopped me catching Gemmies and Blue Eye - as I can cleary find the Mountain and contours.
True some of the manufacturers offer newer Units with their own proprietary network implementations, and hence would be easier to interconnect, but I don't think they are in your $1000 price range.
If I can make one final suggestion, build up your knowledge - read as much as you can - Google some products that you are interested in and download the manuals that are available free online. Read up on the features and what they do and how "user friendly" the interface is to access those features.
Or... go to a dealer that understands this business and explain the type of fishing/boating you do and what your needs are and listen to their advice. I know this area can be quite complex and the fear is once the units are installed - you will have to live with them for quite some time. Best of luck.
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Hi all raiders.
I am in the market for a new sounder/plotter. I am setting up to go offshore fishing, probably as far as the peak. Ive always river fished and travelled just outside the heads but now want to use my boat for what it is capable of.
My boat is a smidgen over 6meters and ive owned it for years so am very sure of its capabilities. But before going into the big blue i want to make sure everything is spot on. I will be getting an epirb, renewing my marine radio, and looking for a new sounder/plotter.
I was expecting to pay up to $1000 for a good colour model sounder/plotter but after a bit of research have come away with nothiong but confusion.
Has anyone paid a similar price for a unit that they think is the bees knees?
I am always happy to buy something on referal. especially if i get recommended the same product from a few people.
It also appears that with some models you buy the unit, then have to pay hunderds of dollars more for the australian maps. Do some of the units come with maps already installed?
Thanks in advance for your help
Bees Knees eh - I think it's all a compromise - unless $$$ are an infinite resource.
I can only tell you what I use and find works for me - I use an Eagle Seacharter 642c DF iGPS (DF stand for dual frequency transducer), with Gold Navionics Charts. Whole lot set me back just a tad over $1000. Its a colour GPS/Sounder and the Navionics charts are the Naval charts for Australia. I fish out to Browns and can sound bottom - I run the unit in split mode - half the screen as a GPS where the unit overlays the Naval chart details and my track and the other half as the sounder. When I get to a spot I switch it to full screen sounder for more historical detail. From memory, the DF feature runs at 200kHz or 50Khz one is wide angle (shallower) and the other narrow (deeper penetration) and there is a set and forget dual mode option.
There is a Lowrance equivalent model (Eagle is the "E" in LEI) but I am not sure what that is.
I installed my unit with a thru-hull shoot (my hull is fibreglass and I epoxied the transducer onto my hull floor at the back where I have a drain well), hence it has little turbulence interference apart what the hull naturally produces and reads bottom at >30kts, but not in reverse.
The unit works well, its also linked to my VHS Radio, I have not had any problems in the 3+yrs I have had it. I'd like a bigger screen, but then again I don't fish enough (sadly) to warrant more investment on this hobby. (Other hobbies also compete for cash - there's that compromise again.)
I've owned Eagle and Hummingbird sounders previously and for many years my GPS was a handheld Garmin GPS 45 fitted on a mobile phone cradle (I still have the 45 as a back up to this day - not worth selling and it still works.) In fact they all basically worked. So suggest you might want to tag along on a few boats that have different set ups and narrow down the features that you think would be "bees knees" eg. friend of mine would not look at a GPS unless it had Anchor Alarm - ie. a setting if you drift off your spot by a preset amount (say 100m) an alarm sounds.
BTW, there are also other alternatives emerging - I am now playing with an iPad and iPhone app (Navionics) which seems to be a reasonable GPS app for a smidgen of the price of any dedicated device.... But I am yet to seriously road (water?) test these two. Screen on the iPad is certainly bigger than my Seacharter 642c ???
Ahhh.... the toys... the toys....
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Hey NoviceFisherMan
I was testing out plastics last night and got onto a 30cm flathead and a small bream.
Used a 2.5" Z-Man GrubZ (Bloodworm) on 1/16oz Size 2 hook. Will be testing a few more at night this week (weather permitting) and let you know how I go.
Cheers
Paul
Paul, I'm a novice with plastics also...always presumed they worked due to action/movement... are the ones you use at night scented?
Thanks
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Mako.
Bummer..."little less conversation - little more action"... and there would be a whole stack of fish'n'chips.
Next time.
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Fishing of 12mile... kept losing hooked fish...then this one hooked up... brought it to the boat, and while we debated Baby White or Short Finned Mako it bit through the trace.
My bet was on Mako... any ideas?
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Hypnos monopterygium Shaw & Nodder 1795
numbfish, electric ray, coffin ray, numb ray
family Torpedinidae - electric rays
The numbfish has a large round body lobe and a smaller round pelvic lobe which carries 2 dorsal fins and a very short tail. It has small eyes which are raised when active. The body is thick and blubbery. Their appearance in the Bay and at Julian Rocks is seasonal, commonly in March. They are usually seen singly. This animal is well known for its power to shock. It has a large electric organ behind the spiracles which can generate 200v. This can both stun prey and deter predators. The numbfish's diet consists of crabs worms and small fish. There are also reports of numbfish attempting to eat relatively large prey, including rats and penguins, whole. One came to a bad end on Main Beach when it took on a porcupinefish.They may also be scavengers. Little is known about their breeding habits. Females are larger than males, pups are about 10cms long. They seem to have poor vision and have been observed slamming into rocks and bouncing off.
Distribution = northern Australia
Max size = 60cm
BTW, I heard their breeding habits are shocking !!!
...... (sorry could not resist). -
For those that have been shocked/stung by one of these, how bad is it?
Have only caught the one and while I was pretty careful not to touch it, there's always the temptation, if only to know what it feels like.
Ok I will confess. Many many years ago, beach fishing Collingwood beach Jervis Bay for bream late at night. Moon was out, it was about 11pm, we were damp from the salt and spray, but we were landing some thumper bream on liver cubes of all things. I hooked something heavy - felt like a weed snag, not much of a fight at all (unlike the bream or the banjos or rays and other riff raff we were getting in between the bream). Anyway, I surfed this sucker in on a wave and there it lay in the moonlight. It looked like a ray, bit different to the 4 before that but a ray never the same - being keen to re-bait and get back in the action, I whipped out my trusty metal hook remover pliers (the old galvanized long nose things) and lent over to it. ZZZaaaaap !!
I remember leaning over, and then a flash of light, and for some reason I couldn't work the pliers - my arm was caulked - pins and needles. I don't actually remember touching it. My mind went from white back into focus, I thought that was weird, was a bit dazed, had another go - zzappp. THEN IT DAWNED ON ME....electricity...Doh! The second hit was much weaker than the first...guess the first one drained its charge.
My wife standing about 15ft away says I glowed blue - all that salt spray made me a wonderful conductor. My bro-in-law was standing a further 20ft down and reckons he turned around as he saw a flash of light from the corner of his eyes.
They still rib me about the night I lit up the sky. Anyway. My advice. Don't touch it. Took a good hour before I was casting normally again.
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Not sure about Sikaflex durability. If you don't want to drill more transom holes, I'd focus on re-use of holes that are already there...Any reason why you cant remove the old broken bracket and reuse the holes that are there already?
Maybe send a picture of that old bracket - see what folks come up with.
I have an aluminum pod mounted on my fibreglass hull transom. The aluminum pod had several holes drilled in it (courtesy of the previous owner attempting to fit a sounder to something that lifts out of the water). I solved the issue of those holes with some sikaflex and 4 large aluminum blind rivets. Sometimes its easier to plug holes then your mate thinks.
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I don't have your unit but it seems to me you have changed the head unit and the electronic-filter the only thing left is the transducer and it's associated cable. Maybe there is a crack or compromise in the cable and when you swapped the elec-filter you disturbed the transducer cable and got a temporary connection (that lasted 4hrs). Could explain why you start off ok then after some use and associated vibration lose signal. I think you are going to have to temporarily rig the replacement transducer to eliminate the current transducer and it's cable.
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Makes sense. So what do we reckon affects stopping power most, mass of the tow car, contact patch (tyres), big brake kits?
I also tend to lean toward Isaac Newton's theories and MASS being pretty important. Tyres and big brakes are important but their effectiveness - especially of tyres are highly dependent on the road surface conditions. The discussion so far relates to braking. Consider also "controlling" your rig. Regardless of how you set the rig up - potholes, bumps, crosswinds, passing trucks or combination of these will shake your rig around. When >1.6T of boat starts to dance around, it will have a much bigger effect on a 1T tow car than a 2T 4WD - basic physics.
People often point to semis and state why does this then not apply to a 40t trailer coupled to a semi - just look at where they are connected. The trailer coupling on the semi is positioned on top or ahead of the rear drive wheels. The semi bears its download and any side ways thrust ahead of the rear drive wheels. This weight distribution makes the trailer proper take on characteristics like a front wheel drive car. The drive wheels are underneath the front of the trailer.
Now consider where the boat attaches to your car or 4WD - its about 1m behind the back axle. The pivot points and forces are very different. When the boat and trailer swings to one side there is an extra 1m lever trying to swing the front of your car in the other direction. When you brake and the boat pitches forward, that 1m lever is trying to lift your car front off the ground. This is where mass helps. It takes greater forces delivered by the boat and trailer to move a bigger mass around. This is independent of brakes, tyres and road surface conditions.
At the end of the day, I feel safe towing comes from understanding these basic principles, staying within the legal constructs, watching your speed, watching the drivers around you, staying withing your rigs limits and progressively learning how YOUR rig behaves under different conditions. eg Mine is different going out and coming back - there is usually 150L less fuel and hopefully some fish in the rig - the weight distribution is different. Its noticeable.
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I too saw the report of a few good kings caught at 12mile and headed there with two mates on Sunday 16/9.
Must have zigzagged all over it 10+ times. It was a desert - not a baitball, not a show on the sounder. Dropped some jigs around some likely structure (despite what the sounder was telling us), then dropped paternosters with cut bonito bait - all for doughnuts. Not even jackets.
4 other boats were out there also showing the same success. I think we all got tired of waiving at each other as we passed.
Beautiful sunny day, bit breezy, current was running and even with a sea-anchor out we were drifting at around 3-4km/hr so hard to hold bottom. Water was very cold at 14.7degC.
On the way there and back saw lots of birds flocking but when we got near to them you'd see they were not feeding - just resting on the water. Nevertheless - trolled some skirts and hard bodies - also for doughnuts.
All in all - we had a great day on the water - had a beaut lunch and some bears, swapped a few yarns. But no fish.
I'll be waiting for the warmer currents to show before heading out again.
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I run a 200HP EFI Merc and 15HP 4st Mariner as my Aux (and offshore trolling motor - low fuel consumption and no smoke).
I change the impellers every 12-18mths. On the 200HP I notice that as the impeller gets to the 12mth age, the Merc runs hotter in the 2200-2800rpm range but is fine at idle or above 3000rpm.
I don't have a temp gauge on the 15HP but do watch the tell tale as my indicator - but I am lees reliant on this motor than the 200HP and it gets less use than the 200HP so I tend to stretch impeller changes out to the 18mths.
One thing I will mention, in the years I have owned outboards (since 1990s), I noticed one thing that really affects impellers is LACK of use. If you look at the design of the impeller, it is a synthetic compound, with blades(impellers) and it sits off-centre in the housing. Some of the blades are bent in this position. I find that if I do not kick my motors over and run them at least once every month that the impellers wear out sooner. I think the synthetic compound remembers the bent position and the blades become less springy and hence less efficient.
This could explain why folks get such a varied life span out of them - frequent use in clean water is good for the impeller. Regardless, I would not be relying on a 6yr old impeller. Compounds break down overtime - and the manufacturers do not make them to last that long. This is a critical mechanical part in the motor that I just expect to wear and hence plan to change.
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The V8 you have will tow almost anything, but I am with all the guys that talk about focusing on what you need to pull up and stop your rig being a bit more important than how much power you need to tow.
I tow with a v8 Landcruiser - my rig on the weigh bridge is just on 2.7t. I have had to do some emergency braking with the rig behind me on 1) a highway due to accident ahead and 2) on Pennant Hills Rd in Sydney (just off the free way) when ignoramus drivers decide to cut in and take up your braking space. What was a comfortable brake can quickly become an ABS assisted lockup on the car and full lockup on the 4disc bogey trailer. Blue smoke all around. I think if I was in anything but a heavy 4WD the forward shift in weight of the rig would have pushed on the towball and taken weight off the car front and affected my steering.
I admit I am on the conservative side of things like this, but that's my 2c worth.
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I have tried Penrite and found it to be smokey - especially when engine was cold - and the plugs come out looking a bit black. I have been using Quicksilver Premium Plus2-Cycle Outboard Oil TC-W3... its pricey but makes my Merc 200EFI run clean and smooth.
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I have a single axle Brooker trailer, about 18 months old. On the trailer is my Seafarer V-Sea (16').
I now want to put brakes on that trailer. Not keen about electric as it is often dunked in salt water.
I am thinking about maybe disc.
Can someone please help with brake type, where to buy, how much and how to install.
'shakey'
Electric and disc are not mutually exclusive. Electric brakes may have got a bad name as many early electric brake systems were drum brakes (intended for Caravans etc) these are crap for salt water though as there is no real way to wash them out apart from stripping them. Also they relied on electric driven soleniods to activate the brake shoe and it was difficult to waterproof the solenoids.
So if you want discs (recommended) and you want to stay away from "all electric brakes" or the expensive compressed air brake systems that semis or some horsefloats have on their rigs, then you basically have two choices:
a ) Mechanical override - a previous post described those. Al-Ko is a good brand. They work on the forward motion of the trailer driving forward a piston on the towball connection that activates a lever that pulls on cables to activate the calipers on the discs. This system is OK stopping in a straight line, but has some problems for instance when driving down hill and you are using the engine to slow down, being completely reliant on the forward motion of the trailer against the slowing down car this system can sometimes activate the brakes. Similarly, going uphill or reversing downhill - the car does all the braking. Hence the other posts comment that you will find the car still does all the work.
b ) Electric Hydraulic - here the brake system on your car, activates a hydraulic pump on your trailer to drive the disc brake calipers. So only when you press you car brakes do the trailer brakes come on. In addition, you have a manual over-ride in the car, which allows you to apply the brakes on the trailer only. Seems daft thing to do - but speaking from experience, when the boat and trailer started to swing and fishtail at 80-90km/hr on the freeway due to the cross winds, a simple press of the override straightened the rig out quick smart.
I have run electric hydraulic disc brakes on my tandem rig since 2001. No major issues. I also have the electric breakaway set up which means the trailer has a small 12v battery (motor bike type) mounted to drive the hydraulics in the event of a breakaway from the car coupling and power source.
The major components of my system are:
1. In car: Electric Brake controller. Hayman Reese (my older truck had a Hayes Lemmerz Energise III - this was a better unit as it sensed vehicle de-acceleration and applied more current -read braking force- progressively).
2. Car to trailer: Standard multi pin electric trailer flat plug - one of the pins connects the car brake circuit to the trailer brake system. (No compressed air drums / couplings etc)
3. Trailer:
a ) Carlisle Hydrastar Electro/Hydraulic Brake actuator
b ) 4 x Galvanised Trigg Hydraulic Brake Calipers
c ) Hubs with discs etc
After each saltwater dunking I make sure I wash the hubs/discs and calipers with a good dose of fresh water and hit them with a coat of WD40. I suggest you do not have the hose on pressure spray as this forces the salt in but more importantly just run lots of water across them to dissolve the salt away.
I am running original discs / hubs since 2001. I have changed brake pads 2 - 3 times.
Re cost etc. I have given you the brand names of the components I have so you can Google them for prices. Any car mechanic or good quality trailer shop can quote you to install.
Hope this helps.
BTW, any reason why you want to brake enable your rig? I can't imagine you are hitting the legal weight limits. The above may be a bit overkill unless you are maybe towing with a smaller car?
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Hello fishraiders, allot of us know what its like to get seasick and it really is a very bad feeling for those not in the know, what worked for you , and what did not , i believe some things work for some people but not for others, what is your experience? thank you all.
I keep Travacalm on the boat and even occasionally pop one myself if I have not been out in months. Recommend you take them at the boatramp 20-30min before setting out. For the crew that is susceptible to sea-sickness I have found the following things generally help -
1) don't starve yourself before the boat trip. The ones that have had a toast or two for breakfast before leaving have always fared better.
2) similarly don't starve yourself on the boat. Surprisingly many folks have found a peanut butter sandwich and cup of black tea very settling (I say the peanut butter sticks the guts together). Eat something (1/2 a sambo) on the run out. Eat a little through out the day. Relax. Its all exciting, but you need to condition your body to do normal things (like eat) while all that rock and rolling is going on. Do it gradually. Goes without saying that if you have not got your sea legs I suggest you leave greasy or spicy foods at home for your return.
3) if you are underway, have the "queasy" ones face the breeze and look out to where you are heading. Fresh air and a bit of spray does wonders.
4) my bro-in-law constantly gets seasick - except when he is steering the boat - made him get his boat license and now guess who is at the helm when we troll (trawl?). Once a fish is hooked - he is OK to play it and land it - then back to the helm he goes. Some people are just wired differently, give them jobs that keep them occupied, looking out and their mind off their gut.
5) try to minimize the time looking down in the boat. Have them make up their rigs before to minimize the time rummaging through the tackle box.
Following the above has let me take even newbies out to Browns and back without too much incident. Everyone has a better day when no one is sick.
Hope this helps.
...... (sorry could not resist).
Gopro editing
in The Dark Room
Posted
I had lots of problems with battery drain. Turns out it was a firmware issue. I recommend apply the latest firmware and follow the documented procedure EXACTLY as written.