eitai2001

Yeah, I only imagined using them to navigate in and out of port. My boat goes in by a river. But I never thought of this scenario. I wonder how much use a spotlight would add though. They only see at best a couple hundred metres in front of you and at even 12kn, by the time you see a tinnie in front of you, it's probably a bit late.

I'm thinking to get the 120AH / 800CCA battery here as the house battery (friend of mine can get it very cheap through his car shop): https://www.lionbatteries.com.au/product/marine-dual-purpose-batteries-starting-and-deep-cycling/ It's a dual purpose, but considering all I might be running engine off is Lights at night (forward spots probably only when under way), Fish Finder, VHF in emergency, ipad plugged in, phone charger, maybe a bait tank one day, then I think this should be enough. Doubt I will ever put a Sound System in the boat as bluetooth speakers are enough. And at least it gives me starting ability in emergency. Or can be operated in the 'ol switcheroo method of 1 on Day A and 2 on Day B. The primary battery I have is the Century 680CCA which has light cycle ... so for both, assume a month of sitting off if I'm not out boating is no worries. It's parked on the street, so I can't plug in a trickle charger.

Yeah, I've read not great for cranking either but ok to be used as a jump start battery to the primary cranking battery (I also have the marine pro 680). I agree, and intend to get one of those automatic ones at some point. But not for now.

Thanks mate. Only thing is it's my understanding a standard deep cycle battery shouldn't really be used for starting except in emergency as they're not designed for quick discharge.

Hey All. Just to kick on this discussion, I'm new to boating with a electric start motors and what not. My boat currently has a dual battery setup, 1 starter, 1 deep cycle. My understanding is turn on using switch 1 (the starter battery), and leave on switch 1 while boating around. When stopped and engine off, change over to battery 2 for gadgets (fish finder / VHF / lights). That's all good and well. I've learnt about not switching while motor is runnings, even if switch allows, just to form a good habit of not cooking the alternator. My question is, if you shouldn't be starting the motor on battery 2 as it's a deep cycle, and you shouldn't be switching after engine is on, then how do you charge up battery 2? My understanding of the position 1+2 on the switch was for emergency situations where battery 1 is lacking charge and you need to jump start battery 1 with battery 2 effectively. Also, somewhat related, I need to replace the deep cycle battery as it's beyond dead (couldn't even power on the battery tester!) ... anyone have any experience with the Kings 115AH battery? On their site says can be used for boats too. I know some people use the CCA + Semi Cycle batteries as their second, but I have some pretty strong front and rear spots for night fishing, so imagine they can draw a decent amount coupled with the sounder, cabin light, etc. Hence wanting to keep to deep cycle for the second. (I know there are relays and what not that can be used to automate this, but let's ignore those for this question to help better my understanding). Thanks Itai

Thanks guys. I'll also dig around for the local knowledge in Melbourne. I've been putting in my tinny no issues with a 2WD, but all up with trailer, that's only about 200-300kg. So bit of an upgrade to my 1.1T

Thanks all for the answers. We do also have a 4WD Outlander, but that's the main family car. Was hoping I could get away with using my side car so as not to be moving child seats around every time. Seems like probably best not to.

Ordered the Yamaha in the end

Hi All. Similar question to above. I've got a Skoda Octavia Wagon 2WD 1.4T. Braked towing capacity is 1.5T. I've got a Swiftcraft Seagull 5m with 90HP 2 Stroke Yamaha. All up weight (calculated) will be approx 1,120KG. - Boat Dry - 430KG - Engine - 120KG - Accessories/Batteries/Esky/Etc - 120kg - 80L Fuel - 60KG - Trailer - 390KG The weight is within the towing capacity of the Skoda. My question is, will I be able to get it out of the water at a ramp with a 2WD, 110KW power, 250nm torque? Cheers Itai

Hi All. This past weekend, I picked myself up my first "real" boat, a great condition Swift Craft Sea Gull. I originally started on an Intex Mariner 4 with a 2.5HP engine about 1.5 years ago, then came into a 3.5m plastic dinghy with an 8HP engine middle of last year, and after deciding boating is right for me, and wanting something good for the kids too, I've picked up the 5m old bird, with a 90HP Yamaha on the back. I'm based in inner South East Melbourne, and my local ramp is Mordialloc. Looking forward to learning, sharing and meeting other boaties and fishers. Cheers Itai

Thanks Noelm. And yes JustJames, you're right, it's not much different in the grand scheme ... but in boating, it all adds up Also, sometimes the OEM aren't all they're cracked up to be, and charge just because they can. But based on what NOELM is saying, I prefer great to OK, so I'll go Yamy. Definitely all plastic though ... agree with those thoughts.

I know this is an old thread, but posting this here for future people as it was a real pain to find!

Hi All. Looking to get a fuel / water separator for my Yamaha 90HP. Anyone had any experience with these Easterner fuel filters, part number C14371V-1? I was looking at the above, or an original Yamaha - Part number 90798-1M744: The price isn't the biggest concern, but all savings count, Easterner around $120 with 2 filters and Yamaha around $160 with 1 filter. I'm inclined to go Yamaha, but the filters are a lot more pricey $57 each vs $27 each for the Easterner: I'm all for an original brand for quality, but Easterner seems decent too? Perhaps the Easterner filter (available readily at some big name boating stores) will fit the Yamaha filters (much less available, have to go to Yamaha dealers). Any thoughts? Cheers Itai