slinkymalinky
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Posts posted by slinkymalinky
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Yep... Maori Cod I think. Nice fish that looks around 1kg.
Cheers, Slinky
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Like they say, Juzza. If every day was a sunny day, the world would be a desert. Just makes you appreciate the good days all the more.
Better luck next time.
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day Joshagius,
The most consistent spot for Yakkas is Balmorral, in close to the island. Just berley up and off you go.
The Spit Bridge is a good spot for them on occasion and it's also a great squid spot but mostly at night using paternoster rigs with 1 or 2 jigs on droppers and a glow stick above them. The squid at the Spit Bridge are mostly Arrows with the odd Calamari thrown in.
There are heaps of squid spots but to start with, try any of the rocky shores from Dobroyd Head, around the bays in North Harbour and Manly, out to Quarantine. If you find broken ground with weed, sand and hard structure (rock or wharf pylons)... and the water is clear... you should find squid.
Cheers, Slinky
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I've lived with a serious chronic pain condition previously (trigeminal neuralgia)... and it sucks. People who haven't dealt with it don't realise how far it can drag you down. It's not the amount of pain as much as it being never ending. I'm feeling for you dude.
Do whatever it takes to deal with it mate. Vent, talk, get a new job, fish... whatever it takes to keep you going.
Hope you have more up days than down, SB.
Cheers, Slinky
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Bubba,
That's an unreal Bull Dollie, Bubba. Pop it into records if you like. The photo gives a good comparison against your height so I reckon 5'8 is a pretty accurate measure... that's 173cm and the raider record if you want it. I don't think anyone would argue with that photo!
:1yikes: Cheers, Slinky
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Welcome to Fishraider, nautica.
Good to see you on the forums and hope we get to see some of your fishy adventures in the near future. Don't be shy about sharing or asking for info... Raiders are a generous, friendly bunch from all walks of life.
Cheers, Slinky
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If you find you're getting follows but not takers... like with any other kind of fishing... change something.
The first thing is the retrieve. Try speeding up, slowing down, flicking the rod tip, stopping... see if it makes a difference.
If that doesn't work, the next thing to do is drop down jig sizes, put on a lighter leader and try to get more stealthy.
Cheers, Slinky
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As much as I'm a fan of getting the best gear you can afford, If you're uncertain at all about whether you'll get into LBG long term, a TLD might be a more sensible option $$ wise. They're good reels and you see a lot of them on the rocks and on game boats around the country.
Cheers, Slinky
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Lies, damn lies and media!!
All over Australia, novice blackfishers will be missing takes because they try to do it like Roberta does in the pictures.
I think this is the fishing mag equivalent of celebs happening to be in the same restaurant by coincidence and then having the media report them as an item!!
Cheers, Slinky
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Happy birthday Ray. Many happy returns...
May the beer be cold and plentiful.
:1happybday: Cheers, Slinky
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After talking to admin I've re-opened this topic after editing some replies.
I'd remind all members that this is a family site. Regardless of the level of anger and frustration, please keep the language within reasonable boundaries and don't let your frustration lead you to get personal or offensive.
The sort of behaviour going on at this boat ramp is something we all want to see stamped out so letting the conversation go is worthwhile
BUT
Try to be constructive in your comments... ideas on how this sort of thing might be solved are what we need most.
Slinky
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G'day myocard,
I was interested in them until I saw one in the flesh. They're great, big, cumbersome things. If I wanted a bait rod set up permanently on a game boat they might be ok but not in my small boat.
Cheers, Slinky
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It's OK Slinky at least one of them went to a home where it is loved
Blood Knot
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OK, so I admit it, I just bought myself a new toy...
It's so good it's almost obscene. Of course I cracked it open and the engineering is on par with reels way more expensive from the Japanese brands. Coupled with recently opening up a couple of ABUs for Jewhunter, I've realised that while I've been caught up in the Daiwa/Shimano 'dash for flash' (don't get me wrong, they make great reels), ABU have been quietly doing what they've always done. Focusing instead on amazing engineering quality and simplicity.
Being out of fashion, ABUs IMHO currently represent fantastic value for money. If I could, I'd swap my Charter Special for an ABU 7000, my Daiwa Sol baitcaster for a Revo STX, and then just get myself a set of C3's.
I don't own any of their spin reels...yet... but the Soron STX looks to be a reel that is half the price of it's counterparts in quality.
Why oh why did I sell my ABUs?? Oh well, live and learn (and buy new gear).
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day amC,
For livebaiting land based I'd stick with mono. Tuna play up near the rocks and kings just play up... one touch of rock on braid and it's good night. With mono you at least have some leeway.
You won't be able to fish anything like close to the breaking strain of 100lb line, even if the reel would take it (it wouldn't). Some people fish 37kg off the rocks but for most, the practical limit is 24kg. Given that you've said you're new to the game, I'd start out with 15kg... fighting a fish on 24 isn't easy on the rocks and if you don't keep your wits about you, either you or your outfit or both could end up in the suds.
The 345Gti has a graphite frame that wouldn't survive really heavy drag pressure. The frame will distort and you'll quickly wear out or even blow up the internals if you tried to fish big drags. Level wind mechanisms aren't a great idea in that sort of scenario either. Just imagine how much lateral pressure would be put on the level wind if it and your line get out of sync while fighting a big fish. Not an unlikely situation and a recipe for losing the fish of a lifetime.
You'd be a lot better off getting yourself a Shimano TLD... they have stronger frames, although if you start seriously getting into it, a Penn Inter, Shimano Tiagra or similar would be the best choice. Learning to wind the line on evenly is really simple. It's just a matter of guiding it back and forth across the spool with the thumb of your left hand as you retrieve line.
Cheers, Slinky
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Hi Tony
I found a pair of tiny split ring Tweezers the other day similar to these
Mine are even better & have a hole in the handle, so they live on a lanyard round my neck so that if i need to change a hook on the water, I have them there, ready to use! You can only take so many pliers with you on a yak!!
Cheerio
Roberta
Great idea for bream lure rings... great find, Roberta. I'll be keeping a lookout for a pair of those!!
Cheers, Slinky
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reproduced with the kind permission of Alan Tani
(Note: I thought I'd include this one on Fishraider as this rebuild has just become one of particular interest to me personally for reasons that shall remain unexplained... at least to
- Slinky)i never fish fresh water so i actually do not own a reel this small, but i understand that these reels are quite popular. i could not find the schematics anywhere on the net. if someone could find a link, i would appreciate it if you could post it. i do have a hard copy of the schematics with key#'s and part #'s. as is typical of ambassaduer schematics, there are no names given to any of the parts. i hope you will not mind if i make up the names as i go.
all i will do with this reel is replace a plain drag washer with a carbon fiber washer, grease all of the carbon fiber drag washers, and clean the bearings.
remove the handle nut cap screw (key #75) and the handle nut cap (key #74).
remove the handle nut (key #73) with a 10mm wrench.
remove the handle (key #94).
remove the handle spring (key #71) and star (key #70).
remove the spring washers (key #69), the star clicker assembly (key #67 and 68), and the handle thrust washer (key #47).
back out the thumb screw (key #61) but leave in place.
remove the two side plate screws (key #64 and 65).
rotate and remove the left side plate assembly (key #77).
remove the spool assembly (key #76).
there is one last inner right side plate screw (key #66) that will need to come out.
remove the right side plate (key #65).
here's an inside view of the right side plate bearing (key #53), the integrated anti-reverse roller bearing (no key #, translation - not user serviceable), and the roller bearing inner tube (key #46). the right side plate bearing is 3x10x4mm.
remove the roller bearing inner tube (key #46) and set it aside.
take a moment now to brush a little grease on the inside of the right side plate and a little corrosion x to the anti-reverse roller bearing.
now for the gear cluster.
in a new reel, the gear cluster should slide right off.
let's line everything up. you see dry carbon fiber drag washers (key #42), stainless steel washers (key #43, 44 and 45), the main gear (key #41) and a fiber washer (key #40).
the carbon fiber drag washers inside the gear are 9x25x0.5mm.
the fiber washer under the gear is 8x20x0.85mm.
we are going to substitute a carbontex drag washer from smoothdrag.com for this fiber washer. smoothdrag has a set of four washers intended for the round ambassaduers. the smallest one of that set goes underneath the main gear and is about 20mm. this is the one that i will be using. you could also put a
a penn ht-100 drag washer underneath the gear. the part # for this washer is #6-965 and the dimensions of this drag washer are 8x25x0.85mm. this washer would have to be cut down to 20mm.
let's grease all of the drag washers with cal's drag grease.
install the carbontex drag washer.
rebuild the drag stack.
install the roller bearing inner tube (key #46).
install the right side plate (key #51).
install the inner right side plate screw (key #66).
install the two outer right side plate screws (key #64 and 65).
check the function of the free spool thumb bar (key #4).
check the function of the anti-reverse system.
the service for the right side plate is now complete. assuming this reel will never see salt water, this is the last time you should need to open up the right side plate. the greased carbon fiber drag washes should stay smooth forever.
now for the most difficult part of the rebuild.
we are going to pull the right spool bearing, clean it, relube it and reinstall it. a cross pin very inconveniently holds the bearing in place. if this pin is lost or damaged, you may have to make another from stainless steel welding rod stock, or buy a new spool and repeat the proceedure all over again. let us proceed.
you've seen this modified pair of vise grips in the bearings post.
we will use it to push the cross pin out half way. this pin was pushed out easily. your cross pin may not be so.
now i am going to take the smallest blade from a jeweler's screwdriver set.
it goes into the drill press chuck.
using the drill press, the cross pin is easily and cleanly removed. if you try to pull the cross pin out with a pair of pliers, you may damage it. been there.
the right spool bearing slides right off. it is 5x11x4mm.
a number 1 ringed owner flyliner hook allows you to easily remove the retaining rings and shields from these bearings. a sharper hook does make a difference.
the bearing is cleaned with carburator cleaner and compressed air, lubed and reinstalled.
the cross pin is centered with the vise grips.
now that the bearing is open, it can be properly cleaned and relubed after every fishing trip without having to remove the cross pin.
the owner of this particular reel requested a lighter lubricant because this reel will never see salt water. there are many to choose from. i've selected oust met-ol from smoothdrag.com.
install the spool assembly (key #78).
remove the left side plate bearing retaining ring (key #69).
the left side plate bearing (key #68) is 3x10x4mm. remove the bearing with your homemade bearing puller.
remove the retaining rings and shields.
clean the bearing with carburator cleaner and compressed air, reinstall the bearing (key #68), reinstall the retaining ring (key #69) and lube the bearing.
place a small dab of grease on the left side plate retaining thumb screw (key #61) and select the number of brakes that you wish to use.
install the left side plate (key #51) and tighten down the thumb screw (key #61).
remove the right side plate bearing cap assembly (key #56-60).
remove the click plate (key #55), the bearing retaining ring (key #54) and the right side plate bearing (key #53). the right side plate bearing measures 3x10x4mm. note that a bearing thrust washer (key #52) remains in place in the right side plate.
clean the bearing (key #53) with carburator cleaner and compressed air, then lube and reinstall it. reinstall the retaining ring (key #54), the click plate (key #55) and the right side plate bearing cap assembly (key #56-60). adjust the bearing cap until you have zero load and zero freeplay. it may be tighted slightly at a later time, depending upon conditions on the water.
install the thrust washer (key #47), star click assembly (key #67 and 68), and the two spring washers (key #69) oriented "()".
install the star (key #70). as you turn the star clockwise down, it will seat against the click tongue (key #68). push in the click tongue manually and continue to turn the star clockwise until it seats fully.
install the handle washer spring (key #71).
add a light coat of grease and install the handle (key #72 or 94).
install the handle nut (key #73), the handle nut collar (key #74) and the handle nut collar screw (key #75). make sure that the handle nut is seated properly.
add a small amount of oil to the handle grip.
check freespool.
and we're done! well, almost. there was a slight problem with this reel. i bottomed out the star to check for the maximum drag pressure and it got only 8 pounds of drag. the manager of my local tackle shop told me that this reel was supposed to get over 20 pounds of drag. i initially thought that was odd, because that amount of drag pressure would most assuredly shred the main and pinion gears. i had him check another revo inshore that he had in stock and the star on this reel also bottomed out at 8 pounds.
to increase the drag range, i made a slight modification to the order of the spring washers (key #69).
i placed one spring washer (key #69) underneath the anti-reverse roller bearing inner tube (key #46).
that raised up the lip of the inner tube (key #46).
after reassembling the reel, i was able to get an easy 15#'s of drag. i opted to not push the reel further because concerns regarding possible damage the main and pinion gears at those higher ranges.
now, for a few comments. as a strictly salt water guy, i feel a bit uneasy about telling you how to set up a bass reels, but many of the principles are the same, whether you are fishing 2# test or 200#.
first, understand that a full set greased carbon fiber drag washers will INCREASE your functional drag range. i define a functional drag as being able to pick a weight, say 10 pounds, tie off that much lead to the line, lift up the rod to a 45 degree angle on the butt and be able to adjust the drag until the weight drops one foot every five seconds. no other drag system, except greased carbon fiber, will deliver that level of performance over the lifetime of the reel. do this drag washer upgrade one time and you will never have to worry about it again.
consider that a properly functioning drag washer may allow you to use thinner diameter line. thinner diameter line might deliver more hookups and fewer breakoffs. more hookups and fewer breakoffs could mean the difference between placing in a tournament, or winning, or going home a loser.
secondly, bearings should be cleaned and lubed after every trip. this should apply to tournament bass guys as well as serious offshore fishermen. if you are required to cast in order to deliver a bait or jig to a fish, then casting distance and accuracy are key. shielded bearings will only trap water, causing failure of the bearing. ceramic bearings will not help. remember, the races are still stainless steel. a clean, open, all stainless abec-5 bearing that is routinely serviced and properly lubed, should allow your reel to perform at it's best. the rest is up to you.
finally, my opinion of the reel? hey, i'm a strictly salt water guy. um, it's expensive, very smooth, and little. what else can i say? pick one up, cradle it in your hands, turn the handle a few times and decide for yourself if it's worth the asking price. good hunting, gentlemen!
Alan Tani
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On my abus I can get over 240 seconds spin time from stanard bearings by removing the dust sheilds and use singer sewing machine oil and blancing the spool ,a blanced spool will cut down over runs and increase spin time without touching the bearrings ,in the world of touranment casting you only need the reel to spin for 8 seconds for a 300 yard cast .blanceing the spool is by far more impoarant for increases distance in any sort of overhead reels. as with balance comes control.
ceramic hybrid bearings work better dry than oiled in all test done for distance casting .
Thanks Customcasting. Great info.
That certainly chimes with the mini experiment of the difference between the bearings dry, oiled and with the dry teflon lube.
How can someone who is interested (me for starters) go about balancing a spool? Are balanced spools an 'after market' item? How does that work once the line is loaded on the spool... does it effect the fine balance?
Cheers, Slinky
PS... a 300yd cast is absolutely insane
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It's a Smith Towadi, Raii.
Cheers, Slinky
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Great fun SL. Sounds like you were having a ball
Cheers, Slinky
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Don't know if there are differences between the 2 but any mono or fluoro can be used as a leader whether it is called leader material or not. It all comes down to the characteristics you want in your leader. Sometimes mono or fluoro specifically meant as leader material might be a bit tougher, stiffer or have some other characteristic you might want but just work out what you want and use anything that suits.
Cheers, Slinky
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You've asked a question with no answer. There's no such thing as 'all purpose'. Sometimes a paternoster will be better, sometimes a running sinker, sometimes neither will suit. If it came to it and I was on a desert island with only 1 rig it would be a running sinker rig as it can be fished in more ways... on the bottom, drifting in the wash, etc.
Cheers, Slinky
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V Systems are really good reels and Okuma's service from experience is excellent, but they're not in the same league as Stellas, Certates and Branzinos. The Okumas are excellent reels for the money (I've had 2 spin reels and still have the baitcaster) but the engineering is not up to the same standard as the top-shelf Daiwa and Shimano reels. I'd put them in the same set for consideration with reels like Catalinas, Saragosas and Saltists.
If you can go top shelf, Ceph and GregL probably have the most hands-on experience with the different options.
Cheers, Slinky
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Where would one get there hands on some ceramic bearings? I have a small mitchell spidermite baitcaster that could do with an upgrade.
Cheers
Daniel
G'day Daniel...
Just remember that there are trade-offs. Being lighter, the balls in ceramic hybrid bearings are also more sensitive to contaminants and over-lubing. If you put them in... keep them clean and well looked after. They are also noisier than stainless bearings. But for me, the casting improvement outweighs those issues. Before swapping bearings, make sure you try thoroughly cleaning and carefully re-lubing your bearings to see if that gives you the results you want.
Cheers, Slinky
:1yikes: 
:1happybday: 
Roberta The Model
in Fishing Chat
Posted
I'll have to get a copy, Mondo. I think actually that Roberta is our very own 'Lady Gaga'... addicted to celebrity
Her smiling face pops up regularly in fishing mags. Having fished with her though and being lucky enough to consider her a friend, she's not only one of the nicest people you'll ever meet, she's also a very passionate, thoughtful and inventive fisho who is also full of zeal and generosity when it comes to sharing that knowledge.
It's no coincidence that people like that are the ones who end up in the media... I think Hodgey would make a more regular appearance too if he were a little better looking
I just hope Roberta doesn't let it go to her head and start wearing giant sunglasses and beer cans in her hair
Cheers, Slinky