Jump to content

slinkymalinky

GOLD MEMBER
  • Posts

    3,245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by slinkymalinky

  1. Well done Keith... another fantastic result for all the dedication :thumbup:

    Maybe not so fantastic results on the fishing front, Roberta but isn't the Tweed a beautiful place to fish. It's a bit hit and miss at the moment... kind of between seasons and with all the rain around, the water quality can be perfect one day and horrible the next.

    Hopefully Keith will have an event up here over Summer and we can get out and chase some Jacks.

    Great to see JJ doing his usual and outfishing everyone :biggrin2:

    Cheers, Slinky

  2. You're right... you do get what you pay for like with anything I guess.

    It's a little hard to be specific but in a really broad sense, with increasing $$ for rods that are comparable in say length, line rating and so-on, you can expect to get:

    - increased sensitivity (you'll feel a lot more through the rod... good when lure fishing particlarly)

    - better casting distance and control

    - better quality fittings (reel seats, guides)

    - better construction (better bindings, better quality epoxy, etc)

    - more specialised performance characteristics (rods that are designed to be REALLY good at a specialised task like lure casting, barramundi fishing, jigging, etc)

    Now, along with all of that, you can also expect the 'law of diminishing returns' to apply. There's a bigger difference between a $50 rod and $150 rod, than there is between a $150 rod and $250 rod. And as you go up in $$ the difference per $ decreases. You can also expect to pay more for well known brands than lesser brands, like with anything.

    For someone starting out fishing, I'd always advise getting the best gear practical... NOT the best you can afford. There's no point paying $1000 for a rod you'll only use once or twice a year, unless you really want to. A lot of fishos spend a lot on gear because they use it a whole lot, they like the satisfaction of knowing they're using the best... or even because they just like the look of it.

    Fishing is meant to be something you do because you enjoy it... get whatever will most increase your enjoyment. Be that a $50 cheapie combo or a $1500 high end set up. They won't perform the same way but only you can say what value you place on what you get.

    Cheers, Slinky

  3. Definitely get in touch with John. The other thing I'd suggest that makes a huge difference to the drag performance of most ABU reels is to get a drag upgrade kit... a set of Carbontex washers is very cheap. Most of the ABU baitcasters come with Carbon washers standard nowadays.

    Cheers, Slinky

  4. G'day Bertrand,

    Unless you know someone who will do it for you free, send it straight to the Australian distributors... their service is very very good.

    The contact name is John Bell... I've PM'd you their details.

    By the way, what sort of reel is it? Is there something in particular that's wrong with it or does it just need a general service?

    Cheers, Slinky

  5. Great place to go fishing mgj.

    That's almost cruel just giving us a couple of photos... I'd love to see more and hear about some of the fish you tangled with.

    With most caught on fly there are probably a few record claims in there too. Have a look in the records section and any that you think are worthy, post 'em up.

    Love it.... :thumbup:

    Cheers, Slinky

  6. Durability.

    A solid glass tip is marketed as a much less breakable rod than tubular glass or carbon fibre rods. They are also relatively cheap compared to good quality carbon fibre rods.

    It comes at a price... they are a lot heavier than carbon fibre rods and much less sensitive. That doesn't mean carbon fibre is better, just better suited to some forms of fishing, particularly lure fishing.

    A solid tip rod like a Silstar Crystal Tip or Shakespeare Ugly Stick is a good bit of gear for a reasonable price but get carbon fibre if you plan to use it for lure and soft plastic fishing.

    Cheers, Slinky

  7. hmmmmmm...

    Bye Bye pussy cat.

    If any of my fish kept wriggling off before I sized them up I would be more inclined to blame the particular species whatever they were and just head off elsewhere and fish for something different.

    Cheers

    jewgaffer :1fishing1:

    If I did that Byron, I'd have to fish for Goldfish... they're about the only species left.

    CHeers, Slinky

  8. Knitting would be fine, boys... but I'd probably just keep dropping stitches. :ranting2:

    Jewhunter has actually been pretty kind to me... there are soooooo many tales of the one that got away. I really really am questioning everything I'm doing.

    Up until about 9 months ago, losing fish wasn't a problem I had (apart from the usual odd fish of course like we all drop. Now I really do feel like I'm cursed. JH has seen the majority of the dropped fish first hand and can tell you that angler error has only been rarely responsible. That makes it really frustrating coz there's nothing obvious to fix except my luck :1badmood:

    When I fished with JH this last weekend he asked me, as has become usual, when I was going to blow a good fish. It'd be a lot funnier if it wasn't so true.

    I finally managed the Jacks after removing the black cats from the boat but I think the hoodoo is still hanging around since I've subsequently managed to drop some more nice fish.

    Anyone want some fishing gear? :(

    Cheers, Slinky

  9. G'day hottyscotty,

    The important thing with circles is to leave the barb and point really well exposed, otherwise the hooks won't do their job. Ideally, bait up your hooks like this....

    post-6175-12728404221_thumb.jpg

    With really soft baits like a peeled prawn or ab gut, you could experiment with threading it on the hook in any way that stops it bunching up down in the gape of the hook and obstructing the point. I hadn't discovered circles back when I used to chase Drummer as my favourite target species but I guess what I'd personally do with say, a prawn, is to just in it once through the thicker end once peeled and see how that works first.

    Cheers Slinky

  10. Thanks Mr Rosebay...

    The great thing about Fishraider is all the Fishraiders. Most Raiders are very generous and help wherever they can, whether that's through encouragement or information in posts, or through taking others on the water and contributing elsewhere.

    Your feedback is greatly appreciated and can be shared by all the many people who help make this such a great site.

    Cheers, Slinky

  11. 800L of fuel... about $1200

    A box of wasted pillies... about $70

    A day like that fishing with Jeremy... Priceless :thumbup:

    Fantastic report for one with limited fish, Greg. What a fantastic day out with your son. Time like that is worth any number of frustrating, fishless trips (even if it doesn't feel like it while you're feeding the jackets).

    Congratulations, Jeremy... fantastic fish :yahoo:

    Cheers, Slinky

  12. very nice!

    so compared to an 'equivalent' shimano or daiwa it's just as nice to use?

    any noticeable differences besides the weight?

    i was tossing up between the abu soron stx or a shimano or daiwa a while back,

    ended up gettin a nicely priced second hand luvias

    Very different to the Luvias... I have a 2000 and it's my favourite bream/flattie reel... like a feather.

    There are no real differences in performance that I've noticed except that the Soron's drag out of the box is way superior to my Stradics and Sols (which have been given after-market carbon drags now of course). The noticeably heavier weight makes them feel very different to fish with though. I wouldn't consider the Soron as a light estuary reel... more of an ultra-light blue water reel for small pelagics or an estuary giant killer for fish like Jacks, trevally, Kings and so-on.

    I'm someone who believes that there is no such thing as the 'best' outfit. While I have a favourite/favourites it all depends on what sort of fishing I'm doing. Would I get another one over a Shimano or Daiwa... absolutely, for the right sort of fishing. If I can get my hands on an STX10 I might get one for light estuary fishing if the weight is a lot less than the 20.

    Cheers, Slinky

  13. Hey slinky, I'm still searching for a reel to go with my lox rod 7'6 1-3kg. Was wondering which lox you have withthe stx20

    Daniel

    sorry it took me a while to reply to this, Daniel. The rod I use with the Abu is their 2-5kg stick. It's not a light estuary stick... it's really designed as a light snapper plastics rod. It's an amazing taper and my favourite rod... it has a really light tip so can be used for flicking small plastics but has so much grunt in the but it will also throw big plastics on heavy offshore heads. Jewhunter has seen it in action and it's almost like using a light flick stick when casting and then having a big gun when hooked up. I'm going to get a couple more Lox rods very soon.

    The STX20 is too heavy for a 1-3kg rod but there is and STX10. I haven't had a look at one yet but consider the weight carefully... while they're amazing value reels, I wouldn't want to kill the featherweight feel of a light Lox. A physically lighter reel might feel nicer... personal preference though.

    Cheers, Slinky

  14. G'day hottyscotty,

    I think everyone knows by now that I LOVE :wub: circle hooks.

    I got the same mag and the different sized hooks cover a range of species. The really small ones would be great for whiting, the next size... about a 2/0... are the size I use heaps up here for bream, flathead and so-in in places like the seaway. The bigger hooks would be great for snapper, strip-baits for kings, school jew.

    Circle hooks are no harder to use than any other hook. Like with every bit of fishing tackle, you just need to know the basics. A uni-knot is fine, but a snell as Jewgaffer described is possibly better (I'm yet to decide one way or the other). Describing what the direction the line goes through the eye does is pretty hard but have a look... one way makes the point dig in more when you pull on the line, the other makes it pull away from whatever it's touching. The idea with circles is you want the hook point to be able to pivot into the (usually) corner of a fish's mouth.

    The 2 main things to remember with circles is don't overload the hook with the bait.... pin it once and once only. This lets the hook work properly.

    The 2nd, is DON'T strike. When you get a bite, let the rod load up. The fish will usually hook themselves and all you'll do by striking is pull the hook straight out of their mouths. If you seem to be getting a lot of bites but no hook-ups it's most likely just very small pickers but you can sometimes try s-l-o-w-l-y lifting the rod.

    Almost everyone who has ever fished on my boat in the Gold Coast Seaway or on the local reefs has gone away a circle hook convert... they work.

    Cheers, Slinky

×
×
  • Create New...