Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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Suggest u disconnect the cable then check the caliper for movement , ie move the arm where the cable connects too .
this will determine if it's the caliper or something else. if the caliper , perhaps some WD40 , if that does not free it up then the caliper will need to come off.
In respect to the coupling there should be two grease nipples. Give it a good grease & with the cable still removed hook the trailer on & drive around the block a few times applying the brakes many times , this should free it up
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Do u have a live bait tank , if so u can run a "T" off that , it will only cost a T fitting , a tap , some garden hose & a gun
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13 hours ago, fRuItCaKe said:
Curious though.
Why are people saying $3-4k?
Boat 3yo, price new would be around $7-8k.
Is the 2nd hand market a bit stuffed or am I missing something?? Any input would be great
What yr missing is there are heaps of similar boats in the 3 - 4 k range most fitted with a well known brand motor not something rebadged
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$ 6 k for that , no way , may be 4k on a good day but I would be looking for closer to 3k
What is the length , 3.6 mt ??.
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I have a Webster 4.9 , twin hull , single engine in the center
Fabulous boat , would never consider going back to a mono hull but as rickmarlin62 says " if you can find one ", especially the 5.2 mt
Geoff
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Are u referring to the stearing cable or the actual motor ??
If the latter that's very unusual for both the horizontal & vertical piviot points to cease up , especially when the motor looks in very good condition
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I will call in when passing , interested in having a look
Geoff
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This is way out in left field but some motors have a device in the block that if the motor overheats it cuts the throttle back to avoid damage .
These can become faulty over time even if the temp is ok
if yr motor has one , perhaps worth checking
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The first thing was to get the boat off the trailer . without going into specific detail I decided to lift it up , the back on stands , the front suspended from a reinforced roof beam around the bow spit . When about an inch clearance pulled the trailer out
The trailer , at the time of taking the photo , rust removed , rust converter applied , & primer . I then applied Galmit & overcoated with a silver paint .
There are plenty of products on the market all of which I assume are of good quality. I chose Wattle ( one stop shopping ) as they have the four products required , Converter , primer , Galmit & top coat , A bottle of metho is also required
The process took about 3 days , most of the time taken waiting for each coat to dry
A tip , a little bit of paint goes a long way so unless u have a very big job the small 250ml can should be enough
GeoffI
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JonD Yr referring to Boat Latch which is different to Boat Catch
Boat catch , just pull the pin & reverse off
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I've got one on my boat but it's a cat , I assume you have a mono hull
Is yr boat F/Glass or Aluminium ??
Either way , the procedure is the same but the first thing to check is access to the inside of the bow as when the holes are drilled u need access to tighten the nuts
set up depends on yr trailer & where u can mount the bracket , once u have that sorted & the bracket fitted , then fit the catch to the bracket , hold the catch to the bow , mark the holes , drill & bolt on
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Thanks Frank but all done , not perhaps 100% but a lot , lot better than what it was
As a final summary , the main problem was down the back where 13 years of grease had become hard & some had migrated up the shaft on the starboard side. There was no rust or corrosion
This took a while to clean out before it was ready for fresh lubricant
With the stearing box , I was reluctant to pull the whole thing apart so I removed the top black tube which covers the spring , cleaned off the old grease which also had become hard , applied new grease , turned the wheel from L to R several times until there was a reasonable coating & that made a big difference .
Finally , when I tightened the starboard nut at the motor the stearing again became stiff , backed it off about 1.5 turns & now , all good
Tks again for every one's contributation
Geoff
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Fab 1 . I'm about to attack the stearing box but I'm a bit confused with yr terminology
You say to remove the cable , to me that's the cable or rod inside the tube or the housing , correct ??
Then , are u saying , to also remove the tube or housing which the cable slides in ??
On my boat that is easier said than done , any way that's my problem
Could u perhaps clarify
Tks
Geoff
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tks guys , will be working on it today , hopefully get some improvement
I Will report back
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Thanks guys , a lot of good information
I'll continue cleaning the shaft where it comes out of the " stearing box" sleve near the motor until I have it as clean as possible then a light application of lubricant .
If that does not fix it , then looks like I need stearing box maintance
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I have the tube type stearing which is now 13 years old & has progressively become very stiff over recent years. I would like to fix it , preferably with minium cost
I have removed the nuts on both sides of the motor sleve , cleaned all the grease from the shaft & inside the sleve . The motor can now move freely on the shaft , however , whilst the actual stearing is a bit easier the problem appears to be else where.
I have also cleaned , as best I can , the grease which has migrated up the sleve going to the stearing wheel , but it is still not right .
What else can I do , is the problem possibly in the stearing box under the dash , if so not too shore how serviceable this unit is
I assume I'm not the first person to have this problem so hopefully someone has the solution without ripping the whole thing out
Tks , Geoff
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22 hours ago, jeffb5.8 said:
If the boat is rated to 15hp then that is the Maximum you can bolt on.
there is a massive difference between a 8hp and 15hp, it will go a lot better with 2 ppl and ok with 3.
with such a small tinnie over powering will be a mistake and one the Waterways will pick up straight away.
i noticed the difference going from a 6hp to a 9.9hp and then another good step up to 15hp on a 3.7m tinnie.
Lazydaniel .. Pls take note of this , especially 15hp being the maxium allowed
Any thing over 15 and you could end up in trouble so I would not be to concerned if the Merc & Tohatsu are the same motor
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What hp motor do u have fitted at present
Weight is not normal rating , it's the hp that is important
Going over the rating of 15hp can effect yr insurance and or liability if u have an accident , especially if there is an injury , suggest u do not exceed the 15hp
There is a lot of cross branding & unless yr in the industry it's difficult to tell if different brands are in fact the same
One check u can make is to compare engine capacity , ie , the cc displacement
Geoff
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Ditto for me , he did some work for me a few years back , top quality , competitive pricing
Geoff
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The Webster is a nice boat at a reasonable price but I notice it has the walk through at the rear which means no LBTank.
Also , I tested the 60 hp 4S , it went well but felt it was a little underpowered if u have a load on board or trying to drive over a wave in a trailing sea so I opted for the 70 2S
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I've just noticed , the 2002 model had the sponson extensions welded on , nothing wrong with that but the 2003 model they were part of the overall fabrication .
As for the brakes , u may like to check a few trailer places for the cost to fit a new coupling , axle , discs brakes & rotors .
Allowing for misc fittings & labour it may be around $2000.00. Depending on how anxious he is to sell , perhaps the seller will drop the price
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As u may have noticed that report was done in 2003 which is relevant for the boat u are looking at
As for the weight the 300kg is the raw hull only , u need to add the motor , trailer , & fittings . That will bring it over the 750kg limit
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Chris
in Fishing Chat
Posted
Mine also , Maxima is a great product with very competitive pricing