Geoff

As others have said , squid love yakka but normally can only be caught if they get caught up on the hook or are too silly to let go when the line is being retreived. If loosing yakka to squid I use this rig. It allows the yakka to be hooked in which ever fassion you prefer but if a squid grabs the yakka there is a very good chance it will get caught on the barbs. Squid also like prawns so , if actually fishing for squid , here is an option , other than using a squid jig Geoff

The reservior & ram are two different repairs so you need to determine which one it is. The most common is the ram. Check to see if there are any score marks on the ram , if so , it may be easier to to replace the whole unit rather than a new ram & seals. If the ram is OK then it's just the seals inside the ram. Unless a member can provide a step by step process , call Huey , perhaps he can advise , as some rams require special tools. Geoff

Could you provide a bit more information , Where is it leaking from , around the ram or somewhere else ? What brand of motor , age , HP etc What is the rusty container with the lable , the oil reservar? Geoff

Using a gurni will force water inside. Do the drag up tight & give them just a light spray with water or a quick rinse under a tap , then loosen off the drag.

I understand what you are suggesting is to bypass the bulb and run a short line straight to the fuel pump. I'll try this if the test tomorrow fails but so far I think the bulb is fine. Sarge. From what you say , the bulb is OK when manually operated. Whilst it is unlikely , the internal valve may be sticking when relying on the fuel pump to suck fuel through , also if there is an air leak some where in the fuel line it won't show up when manually priming the bulb. Just to clarify my suggestion , the test is to by pass every thing from the tank to the pump , ie fuel lines, filter , primer bulb , fittings etc You have not mentioned it earlier but have the carbys been drained to ensure there is no water in the bowls If the fuel by pass test does not isolate the problem , ie , it's electrical not fuel, check with Huey if your motor has a cut out function connected on or near the thermostat that shuts the motor down if over heating occurs. I know from your earlier comments the motor is not actually overheating but these sensors have been know malfunction & send faulse signals which can turn off the ignition Geoff

Sarge. I've just noticed you used E10 fuel. It's unlikely this is causing your current problem but I understand on some outboard brands or models it can cause problems by perishing parts of the fuel hoses or gaskets. Also , E10 attracts moisture from the air & over a period of time can add water to the tank. This is not a problem with cars which have a fuel system designed to use E10 & that most cars are filled with fresh fuel on a weekly basis or so. For boats which can be parked for months at a time the water build up becomes an issue. Suggest you only use Unleaded , if that's not available then use Premium. One other thought , do you have any of the clear reinforced plastic hose between the tank & the motor.?? If so , this becomes hard over a period of time & the seal between the hose & the fitting allows air in. Geoff

Don't forget to fit an inline fuse. I would suggest between the battery terminal & the back of the socket. By having it there , then the circuit is always fused regardless what accessory you may choose to connect. Geoff

Sarge. I had a similar problem some years ago with my Yamaha 2S & it was fuel. I did all the things you have done & it still would not go. Off to the mechnic who removed the filter & the housing to find the filter was OK but the inlet spiggot into the filter blocked. To compond the problem they discovered the hose between the tank & filter was not correct & was sucking air. Perhaps there is an air leak some where in your fuel system To take Roylo suggestion one step further & to determine if it's fuel or electrical , connect a hose directly to the fuel pump & the other into the top of the tank , ie , by passing ever thing in between. As there will be no priming bulb , the pump may take a minuite or so to suck the fuel through so if , the fuel tank is some distance away , then fill a small container with fuel & have it close to the motor so the hose is as short as possible. If the motor runs OK then it is a process of elimation where the problem lies in the fuel feed system. Geoff

I fitted a socket to the battery lid so I can charge the battery without removing the lid. The same fitting could be used to run your pump. The plug & socket set available from Bias for about $10. Geoff

The boat would be OK on a good day however , if the wind get's up it can become very choppy , very quickly. There are 4 ramps in or near the Bay area. Depending on the wind direction launch at the one which will be most protected , EG , If from the N/E , launch at Foreshore Drive & fish the Northern side of the Bay. If from the South , launch at Kurnell to fish the Southern side. As for fishing spots this map is a good place to start. If you buy on line there is additional postage & handling so check out a few tackle stores around the Bay area , they should have them in stock http://www.afn.com.au/store/AFN-Fishing-Maps/c14/p27/Map-23:-Botany-Bay/product_info.html Geoff

Headed down to Currarong on Friday with the family. Weatherwise , could not have picked a worst weekend but the accomodation had been booked & paid for a month ago. It stopped raining long enough on Saturday to take a walk out to Whale Point where the remains of the SS Merimbula can just be seen. For those who know Currarong these pic's may be of interest. The entrance to the Rock Pool, Looking across the bay from the Rock Pool. Whale Point , the remains of the Merimbula can be seen on the left. Whale Point looking S/E The boat ramp The creek entrance Even though the weather was RS & no fishing , we still had a good time. Geoff

If you dont already have one , purchase one of those inexpensive blue or green tarps to cover the boat along with a coil of thin rope & tilt the trailer up so the water can run off. Geoff

Was this when the motor was out of gear & running in idle ?? At the risk of stating the obvious , perhaps it was just exaust gas. Geoff

How did you detetmine spraying oil on rotors does not effect the performance , especially over a period of time where the pads would get an oil buildup. If parking your car for a month or so , would you use the same 50/50 mix.? Geoff

Josh The other aspect to consider is the height of the boat on the trailer. Wide mono hulls are OK due to the V shap hull allowing the boat to sit over the mudguards & still be at a reasonable height. With a twin hull , where the beam is greater than 2.0mt , this is normally not possible as the hull sits on top of the guards making the boat rather high . It is not necessarly a drama , just something to keep in mind. Geoff

Shoal Bay ramp has recently been upgraded but still best suited to boats under 5.5mt especially if a N/E is blowing or there is swell coming through the heads. The car park has also been upgraded & sealed but the parking is still limited. It's still worth checking out prior to lining up at Little Beach. Geoff

I have a 27meg radio , it works fine for both inshore & close off shore which is all I need. Having said that , a question I have had for some time , other than a legal requirement , why do I need a licence to opperate a VHF radio.?? Their both radio's , they both do the same thing all be it that one is technically better than the other so , what is different about a VHF that I need to do a course & pay for a licence. Geoff

Bustoff . As Day's Fishin say's , How does the motor warm up to operating temperature with water pumping straight through? I had problems a number of years ago with a Mariner overheating when trolling and it was the thermostat's. There was 2 in my motor? There is something in the motor sensing the heat & causing it to " kick back into nutral if over 15 knots" . Normally this is connected to the thermostat. Geoff

As others have said , there is a leak some where pushing the water in when on the plane. Fishing with a friend a few years back , got back to the ramp , removed the bung & water pored out. Discovered the inlet pipe into the deck wash pump had come loose. An easy fix & all was OK Geoff

From what you describe , it is OK when the motor is cold but after it warms up then the problem arises. Have you removed & checked the thermostat both for salt build up & actual opperation. It's not uncommon for these to develop a fault Geoff

Either bow to top on the transom or bow to the bottom of the transom are accepted by Maritime. Most manufactures use the longest of the two so they can badge the boat with the larger number. Geoff

Did you actually measure the boat , from the photos it looks more like 4.6. A boat of that size could take a 50 or perhaps a 60hp motor. Check with Huey , he may reconise the name. Geoff

There is a place in Seven Hills called Australian Boat Screen Maunfacture , they may be able to help. Other than that , Google Boat Screens , There are a few around but most appear to be interstate. Geoff

I've just had a look around the web , am I correct in saying the Structure Scan option is an additional $600 - $650 ?? If so the HDS 5 with SS cost around $1400 where as the DSI 5 with Down Scan , which may not be quite as advanced , is half the price at a realistic $700. Pony181 , for the area your fishing the HDS with SS is rather difficult to justify. Geoff

Vessels engaged in fishing activities and showing appropriate signals.What are the "appropriate signals" ?? I assume it does not mean throwing sinkers , shouting abuse or offending hand signals. Geoff