Geoff

The basic MT400 / 406 manually activated with out GPS , https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=74522&search123=74522&intAbsolutePage=1 With GPS $390. Water activated are more expensive. Check with Craig ( Huey) . He may be able to shave a few more $$$ off those prices Geoff

Can't help with the glue , 2 holes & 20 cents worth of SS screws is a more permenant solution. For interest , when mounting , the correct position is to have the pick up pipe as close as possible to the bottom , not protruding so when on the plane it's protected from damage from anything passing under the boat or when parked on a beach. Photo now added Geoff

Your post prompted me to check mine but not due untill Sept 2015. In respect to the cost , I agree $200 is rather steep even though it includes servicing & testing. With new ones selling for around $280 plus a free battery / servicing after 6 years , a new unit is looking rather attractive with no outlay untill 2024 Whilst this is most likely a sales gimmick / promation to sell more units it would be nice if they extended the offer to battery replacements for units sold prior to August especially when they capitilised on the high demand through 2008 / 2009 & were charging well over $400 for the MT400. Geoff

I agree with Gazza , 4hp would do the job but if the budget allows the 6hp gives you a bit up your sleve should the need arise. Also , the 6hp could be run at half to three quarter throttle to give a similar performance to the 4hp at full throttle. The wheels are a good idea & worth considering. Here are a 4 options ,, http://www.biasboating.com.au/Pair_Tinnie_Movers_p/4873.htm Geoff

There may be a few Raiders who were also members of BAFA & perhaps not aware the club , due to Management & Financial issues closed recently I visited a few weeks ago & signs on the gates to the ramp advised of the situation along with advice that some of the previous members are in the process of forming a new club , Muddy Creek Boating & Fishing Club. If there are any previous BAFA members on FR & would like further information pls send me a PM for a contact phone No.. Geoff

Mick Wow , that's interesting. You have a few things on the screen , other than the pink line , that I have not seen before. Also , the depth is not showing I'm not an expert & perhaps others more knowlegable than I may comment but it appears some how you have managed to overlay the STEER screen with the CHART screen. Was this done by choice?? Also , the black triangle under the "30" shows the actual boat position & as such should be in the water area. Perhaps this photo was taken when you were at home , hence it's position. When I got my unit , played around with settings to a point I stuffed up a No. of functions. Not knowing how to reverse , went into the menu , selected "Back to Default" settings , then started over again. I assume you have gone into the CHART menu & changed from the default Lowrance to Navionics? Was there any difference when you zoomed in. Eg , The map is not showing any channel markers. Geoff

An interesting problem , Does the inaccuracy of the distance change when you zoom in ?? As far as I am aware , there are no "settings" The GPS reads from the satilites & identifies your location. Could you expand on 50m from my actual position. How did you determin this ? Geoff

Spongy I have a 70 Yammie , similar age to yours. The motor came with a 13" prop. During the test run at hand over there was noticable slippage ( cavitation) with the 13" regardless of the trim setting. The dealer fitted a standard 15" Yammie prop & problem solved. Like you , was not all that interested in WOT rev's as I rarely go over 4300 but if pushed the motor will spin to 5300/5400rpm. Geoff

Marty With the fish swiming around agitating the water & the boat rocking around there is no dirty water. The inlet needs to be at the top & the outlet about 25mm lower. Geoff

A lot will depend on how much money you want to spend but if just starting out I would go with fibreglass rods rather than Graphite as glass is more durable & the fish won't know the difference. I normally carry 4 rods ranging from very light for livies up to 6 - 8 kg. I also have a roller tip rod for game fishing. Keep in mind your only allowed 4 rigged rods per person at any time. Length is another aspect. I find 1.8mt to 2.0mt the best for boat fishing. Anything longer & it can be difficult to handle the fish when it is near or being lifted into the boat , especially if there is no need to use a net. As for Reels , suggest stick to the better known brands like Okuma , Shimano , Daiwa etc. Line , There are heaps to choose from & every one has their own favourits. For mono , I like Maxima , it's good all round at a competitive price. Braid , again , heaps to choose from I found Tuf Line is as good as any. Hope this helps Geoff

There is a lot of work required to fit one of these units to a trailer boat including a suitable place to mount where it will be easily accessable should a fuse blow. If you proceed , identify each wire or have a list handy so if , say the Nav lights fail , you know which fuse to look at rather than to remove each fuse looking for the possible faulty one. I think in line fuses are better but that is a personal choice as they are easier to locate & replace. For the camper , that may be a different story depending on how the electrics are set up ,suitable mounting position & access Geoff

It tends to one of personal choice. I found the horizontal condensed (squeezed)the image so changed mine back to vertical. Another thing I found is it's better to use the full Chart or Steer screen to get to the location then switch to Sonar for bottom structure & as such , rarely use the split screen function. If cruising around looking for drop off's holes or structure then the full sonar screen is much better , ie , the chart screen is of little use on these occusions however at night that may be a different story. Geoff

The default in the Elite is vertical but there is an option in the "settings" to change to horizontal. Geoff

Rob Google "data cabeling" . These guy's install & join cables & may be able to assist. To save some $$$ it may be better to remove the cable from the boat & take it to their workshop. Or , try someone like Jaycar , they should have cable joiners that perhaps you could do yourself. Geoff

Dunbiar Trailers have these available but as you say , they are not cheap. And these are from South Coast Trailers which would be a lot less expensive but may not be high enough. Geoff

For the Lowrance , basically , yes but that is all it will do & in time wish you had spent the extra $$$ for the 5 series which comes with the larger screen & the XL9 gold card. The Elite 4 DSI combo + gold card is approx $150 less than the Elite 5. I suggest the 5 is better value for money. Geoff

Ken Here are some photos that may be of interest. In essence , the mounting brackets were custom made which raised the motor so it cleared the bow rails. Geoff

Depending on the hole size suggest you fit a drain plug to fill up the hole & reposition the inlet approx 50mm from the top. This would also allow the tank to be drained more easily. Geoff

Google will do the trick. I checked them out a few years ago. About 80% of stores are in the same street (can't recall the name) along a stretch of a few hundred meters. I did not find pricing all that cheap but it depends on how much you spend. The shelf price can drop considerably with some haggaling. The most important aspect is to know your prices before arriving. If not , it's difficult to determine if there prices are good or not. Bottom line , don't expect to save heaps & if there is a quality problem it's unlikely you will be taking it back. Geoff

Don Majority of the second hand boats I've been looking at are fitted with a 30 hp.. A lot of new boats sold in this range are package deals & to keep the price as low as possible 30's are fitted. A sale with a 30 is more likely to occur than the more expensive option of a 40 , even though the 40 provides far better overall performance. As to brands , it depends on the age , hours , service & general overall care so to say one is better than another can be subjective. If you stick with the well known brands like Yamaha your less likely to have a problem. Geoff

Don It's unlikely you will find a new boat in 4 - 4.5mt range for $10k so it's going to be secondhand. As for the brand , there are heaps to choose from & most are very similar in design. Stability is important , so look at the rear deadrise (degree of "V") the smaller the better however the bow needs good "cutting" design to miminise tinny bang. High sides (freeboard) are better than one with low sides. The main focus needs to be on the motor , is there sufficient HP. 30HP would be OK but a 40HP for a 4 - 4.5 mt boat would be better. Elect start & power tilt are the preffered options. The most important aspect is the condition of the moter. A visual will give a good indication if it's been looked after & supported by service history & perhaps a compression test. There is a lot involved , the above are just a few key points which may assist. Geoff

Sounds good in theory but not sure a loose fuel line , which perhaps is out of site , floating around the bottom of the boat & possibly leaking is ideal. For fuel , brass fittings are preffered but brass & aluminium are not good companions especially when exposed to salt water. I see your on the South Coast. Perhaps a place to start would be Enzed Unanderra. They may have something in plastic or stainless that will do the job. Geoff

The most common mechinical type are made by AL-KO & sold through marine dealers. You will need new hubs which include the disc , bearings , caliper assy , pads , brake cable & a new front coupling. A new axle may also be required to mount the caliper assy Excluding the axle , around $500 for parts + fitting. It may be easier & faster to purchase a new axle assy complete with brakes from a trailer manufacture however a new tow ball coupling & cable would still be required. The cost for these , inc the brake overide , would be approx $160 Don't expect amasing results , they will help but the car will still be doing most of the work. Geoff

Nich A slight correction to my previous post , (13 / 13.5V). Your post prompted me to charge up my battery. Tested it this morning , fully charge , the multi meter is reading 14.64 Geoff

Nich. 12.5 is OK. Fully charged should take it into the 13's but .5 or so is not going to make any difference. The load test is the important one. Geoff