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Posts posted by Geoff
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Can we clarify a few points ,
Do you have two switches , one on the side of the motor & the other on the throttle / gear arm??
If so , does the problem occur on both switches or only one ??
If standing at the back of the boat & activating the switch on the motor does the pump motor start immediately
& there is a delay in the actual pump opperating?
Geoff
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Mijaro. I use braid on several of my rods. The rods are standard , off the shelf brands fitted with whatever guides they used on the day.
Never had any problems so from my experience provided it's a well known brand like Daiwa or Shimano etc I would not be too concerned with the actual guide type.
Geoff
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Using Bias and Whitworths mainly I found it's pretty difficult to try and match it all up.
I've found that Bunnings have a huge range of the fittings at a fraction of the price of marine dealers.
Then only purchase the speciality items from marine shops
Geoff
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I wouldent worry about it to much, the bigger problem is if you leave the hand break on and they rust the pads to the rotors. Surface rust will ware off quickly when used.
Agree. Don't leave the hand brake on when the trailer is stored as the water is retained between the roter & the pad & ends up looking something like this.
All steel roters will get a small amount of surface rust which will ware off in the first few hundred meters.
The most important aspect is to ensure the calipers are moving freely on the 2 bolts / sleves which attach the caliper to the axle
Geoff
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Just wondering if anyone could suggest what the best battery would be to buy, we have a pretty old 135hp mercury engine and also running nav lights, sounder and radio off it. we usually fish at night as well so were looking for something that will be able to run these for most of the night.
If anyone could help this would be great!!
Thanks all
Considering the night fishing , it may be wise to set up a 2 battery system.
If staying with a single battery suggest a 80 or 100amp marine battery.
As to brands ,I've been using SeaMaster & found them very good however ,
there are several other good brands available from marine dealers.
Geoff
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Do you know if you can enter a mark to google and actually plot it ?
I'm not familiar with all the features of Google Earth so not able to give you a good answer , however at the bottom of the screen are the GPS coordinates of the curser & as the curser moves so to do the GPS.
As best as I can determin these coordinates are WGS84 datum
Geoff
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Luke In the tool bar on top of the Google screen there is a symble that looks like a ruler. Click on that & you can measure between any two points.
As for your comment "30 kms from Grays Point to Stanwell , it's closer to 35k's
From the ramp to Jibbon Bommie is about 10k's then a further 25k's to Stanwell
Geoff
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What is the boat length?
Check for cracks both internally & externally where the transom is joined to the sides & bottom.
This will indicate the structural soundness of the transom.
A 15hp would be a big inprovement but with a few people & gear on board I would be looking at a short shaft 25hp.
As to the flexibility , this is not uncommon for a boat of that vintage. They tendered not to place a lot of structural strength when maunfactured.
Again , check for cracking along the keel however there is little you can do about it.
I recall back in the 60's , which I suspect is about the age of this boat , a friend had a half cabbin BellBoy. Late afternoon , heading into the sun you could see light penertrating through the thin fibreglass in the bow area with all sorts of wobble occuring in the sides each time it hit a wave.
His father , who had more money than sense , fitted the boat with twin 75 hp Johnsons
Geoff
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Firstly , only use 316 stainless bolt or screws. These are best purchased from a marine dealer as hardwase stores sell S/S but in a lower grade.
Corrosion occurs between the fastner & the aluminium when exposed to salt water therefore , use a good quality sealant under the bracket or fitting like Sikaflex also available from marine dealers.
Geoff
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Hi Raiders
Over the weekend I installed a hydrofoil on my outboard... Wow what a noticeable difference for such a small price.
Fishingphase
Take care when turning , particular at high speed. This style of foil have been known to work in reverse , one side digs in & can tip the boat on it's side.
The flat type like SE 200 / 300 or Permatrim are much safey & normally give better performance.
Geoff
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Just wondering if someone could help me in regards to some surface rust.
If anyone could help me out and let me know how to remove the rust, and also let me know what I must have done wrong since I always washed down the boat after every outing. Never really washed it down with soap though, mostly just a freshwater wash.
This may be of interest,
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=61166
Geoff
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Anyway, to save you a bit of money, go to those places that cut keys. They can do it for 10 times less than what Holden charges.
Cheers,
dave
Definatly the way to go. I have a VY & needed a new key. Rang one of the onsite (mobil) locksmith , came to my house , cut a new key , all fixed for not a lot of $$$$.
Geoff
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Oh what a cool idea! So I take it you use the power drill to spin the bottle?
Correct , but you need one with a variable speed so it can be run slowly.
Too fast & the bottle is uncontrolable , ie , it goes in all directions
Geoff
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Removing old line from a reel can be a bit messy & laborious then it needs to be disposed of.
Came across this little gadget on an O/S site. They wanted $16 for the screw on top which fits most drink bottles.
Why pay $16 when very easy to make a home made unit.
Got on drink bottle , drilled a hole in the top & fitted a bolt & nut , job done.
Perhaps this will be of interest to other Raiders
Geoff
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Clive See your PM's
Geoff
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Is it a fiberglass boat ? , if so , yes it's a problem , not so much for the amount of water but it means water is leaking in , most likely around the bung hole area , & FG boats normally have an internal timber frame inside the transom which can rot over a period of time & as such weaken the transom area.
It needs to be fixed.
Geoff
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Hey Guys
I have a formosa 480 CC
Secondly from your experience is it worth going for the 80 pound thrust??
Matty
I think for a boat of that size you will need an 80lb motor , but be aware , 80lb require a 24V battery supply.
2 batteries , charger & fittings will cost around $1000
Geoff
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remember to count your old springs leafs and replace with the same if u get more leafs your boat will bounce down the highway if u get less u may damage them
Gazza That's also important when purchasing new springs. The damaged spring was a single leaf so unable to make that direct comparrison.
The supplier offered a choice of a soft or firm spring. Following some dicussion looking at the pro's & con's I decided on the firm.
Geoff
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Hi Geoff
Are you fitting them yourself?
How do you know you got the right size?
Are they standard size?
Yes , I'm fitting them myself. The biggest hassel is removing the old springs which have very rusty U bolts.
It can be very time consuming trying to undo the nuts with WD40 & a spanner.
Easiest & fastest way is to cut the bolts with an angle grinder.
I took the removed spring with me & the guy selected a spring from stock that had the same curvature , length & width.
The new spring are rated at 1000kg which is OK as my total weight is around 850kg.
I don't know about "standard size" but mine are a common size. All the companies I rang had them in stock.
If your thinking about replacing your springs measure the length as this is the main aspect. That & the gross boat / trailer weight is sufficent information to make phone inquiries.
Geoff
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Tks for your replies ,
Trapper I think the one your reffering to at Moorebank is Carasel on Newbridge Rd.
I rang them , they wanted $148 for the springs , U bolts & fish plate
Contacted a few others but the best so far is a trailer manufacture at Sefton ,
5 min from my place , $110 for a pair of Al-Ko 1000kg rated springs & includes all the fittings.
I don't think I will do much better
Geoff
anyone servicing their own 4 stroke?
in Boating
Posted
I have a Yammie 70 2s. Book service is due every 100 hours however , due to low hours (approx 30 hours PA) I service mine every 50 hours.
I went through the manual & prepared an Excel spread sheet.
Whilst yours is a 4s there may be a number of common items in the following list that may be of interest
Geoff
Item Comments Complete
Greasing Grease nipples . See page 4 - 10 for details
Greasing Linkages , apply grease to all linkages
Greasing Steering , remove nut , clean shaft & regrease
Greasing Power tilt / trim. Clean & grease shafts / top of pump. See page 4-18 for more detail
Propeller Remove , grease shaft , check oil seal for leaks
Spark Plugs NGK BR8HS-10. .9-1.0mm (.035 - .039 thou.)
Compression Tst. Results, Cold. Top………... Middle…………...Bottom………… Hot, Top ………. Middle………….. Bottom………….
Fuel lines Check all lines for leaks
Fuel filter (boat) Remove from under rear deck , check / clean or replace
Fuel Filter (motor) Remove & clean as per page 4-14
Idling speed 700 - 800rpm when hot
Tell Tail Run motor , measure output pumped for 1 min. Litres……………
Engine oil tank Fill tank
Engine oil tank Check translucent hose for water , drain. Page 4-16
Fuse Holder Check for corrosion (located starboard side of motor)
Anode & ground wire Check condition & connection. Replace anode if heavy corrosion
Cylinder Head Run engine & check for water / exhaust leaks
Thermostat Check condition
Gear Oil Check level & colour.S/B light brown (golden) Change every 100 hours
Battery Check for corrosion , water level & Hydrometer test. Charge if necessary.
Under Dash Check for loose wires & corrosion
Motor Degrease , wash & light spray with Inox
Trim sensor Lubricate with Inox & test for operation
Trailer
Brakes Check caliper operation. Oil / grease front adjustment assembly
Coupling Grease
Wheel Bearings Check & grease
Electrics Check operation & fittings / connector plug ( Inox)
Jockey Wheel Grease shaft