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More Outboard Engine Troubles


tryhard

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morning Raiders,

Most of you are probably out fishing as I write this - Right ?

Seems that my normally reliable Suzi DT85 must have heard me talking about upgrade options & has decided to punnish me for even considering a change by playing up.

Went out to Berrowa yesterday with the kids & Grandpa for to try a new spot.

Put the boat in, and as is usual she started first kick.

We tried drifting off several of the flats which entailed a fair bit of stop start as we moved from one area to the next - all slow speed stuff.

toward the end of our session, the motor started stalling when I'd take it out of gear and put it in neutral,

most of the time it would re-start on the first kick but as we decided to finnish up for the day, the motor stalled again and refused to fire.

After cranking it (no throttle), over and over & over & over (you get the picture) the motor refused to fire.

I pulled the plugs & as they were wet, dried them & cleaned them - cranked the engine & replaced them. I went through this exercise 6 or seven times. without success.

I also checked the Spark on each plug & tried once or twice to start with throttle & choke. (just to make sure)

Now I did note that earlier at low speed the engine sounded like it was missing - it was vibrating more than is normal - just before stalling.

Finally I admitted defeat & requested a tow from a nearby boat.

Whilst under tow, I continued to try the motor & she finally fired on the third try - at least I did not have to arrive at the ramp under tow !

The motor ran fine on the trip back to the ramp - BUT on getting home she took a lot of cranking to re-start for flushing.

So in summary -

motor stalls after slow speed when going from gear to neutral (or extended idle)

Running on fresh fuel

plugs were wet when checked

plugs checked out for spark

tell tale was pumping & no overheat alarm

Any one have any Ideas on what to look for ?

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Could be a problem with the carburetor, from your description it sound like the engine was flooded.

When an engine floods you should put the throttle in the full open position then start it.

How long is it since the last service?

There is a lot of small parts in the Carburetor that can fail due to age and deterioration from petrol.

good luck

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90 Optimax.

You'll never look back....

Regards

Macka17

Thanks Rodnreel,

When should I pop over to pick it up ?

Free - right ?

Could be a problem with the carburetor, from your description it sound like the engine was flooded.

When an engine floods you should put the throttle in the full open position then start it.

How long is it since the last service?

There is a lot of small parts in the Carburetor that can fail due to age and deterioration from petrol.

good luck

Yeah, I am wondering if its a fuel delivery or ignition problem but as I seem to have both, its not so easy to pin down.

Might be a carby rebuild time - I will have to get it checked when I have it serviced it is about due.

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What makes you think you have an electrical problem?

As you said in your post that the spark is Ok.

Definately had spark, but as plugs were wet, also had fuel, so what I'm saying is maybe an intermittant problem for either.

now when should I come over to pick up that Optimax?

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I had a similar problem. Though my problem was due to the oil line to the premixing unit in the engine disintegrating, so instead of injecting oil, air was going in instead. This caused the engine to stall a number of times untill eventually i couldnt turn the engine on again. Once we had diagonised and fixed the problem it was too late for the and so we had to rebuild the whole motor as the pistons had gouged.

I recommend that you don't turn on your engine anymore until you have figured out the problem. This will minimise the damage and hopefully save you from spending a fortune repairing the entire engine.

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You may be able to get some answers HERE , or I m sure Huey will have some advice tomorrow !!

Ross

Thanks Flightmanager,

another site added to favourites - all interesting reading.

I had a similar problem. Though my problem was due to the oil line to the premixing unit in the engine disintegrating, so instead of injecting oil, air was going in instead. This caused the engine to stall a number of times untill eventually i couldnt turn the engine on again. Once we had diagonised and fixed the problem it was too late for the and so we had to rebuild the whole motor as the pistons had gouged.

I recommend that you don't turn on your engine anymore until you have figured out the problem. This will minimise the damage and hopefully save you from spending a fortune repairing the entire engine.

Tumra,

thanks, I am reasonably confident that this is not my problem, probably getting too much oil if anything as it is pretty smokey on start up.

regards

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Good Morning Tryhard, from your description of what happened on the weekend I would be removing and servicing the carbies once we were sure you had a good strong spark and compression on each cylinder.

Some things to also be aware of are that you have the right heat range spark plugs, the thermostat is installed and operating correctly allowing the engine to reach operating temp at idle and the idle mixtures as set up correctly.

Check out the outboard for the above expecially the right plugs and thermostat and see what happens then.

Any more questions please feel free to ask,

Cheers,

Huey.

Edited by Huey @ Huett Marine
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Good Morning Tryhard, from your description of what happened on the weekend I would be removing and servicing the carbies once we were sure you had a good strong spark and compression on each cylinder.

Some things to also be aware of are that you have the right heat range spark plugs, the thermostat is installed and operating correctly allowing the engine to reach operating temp at idle and the idle mixtures as set up correctly.

Check out the outboard for the above expecially the right plugs and thermostat and see what happens then.

Any more questions please feel free to ask,

Cheers,

Huey.

Thanks Huey,

Only recently replaced the thermostat so I'm reasonably certain thats OK.

I could see the spark in the plug Gap but in broad daylight its difficult to tell if it was a 'big fat one'

What's your definition of a strong spark ?

I will be replacing the plugs as they are about 12 months old - I have always replaced like with like so I confident that they are the right plugs (they were replaced at last service) but are now pretty black on the post.

I agree that the carbies probably need to come off - but as money is tight this will need to wait a little longer - to be done when next service is due.

I will also get the fuel pump looked at & the oil pump as well.

I will do a compression check next weekend & see how that fares. - when last checked ( 18 months or so ago I had something like 125, 125 & 128 )

regards

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Hi Mate, the spark wants to jump a 1/2 gap on a spark tester. Your comression numbers are good if that is still the case. The correct plug for a mid 1980s 85HP Suzuki is NGK B8HS-this is the plug for upto a 1993 model. After that they want to run a BR8HS, which basically is the same plug but a resitor type for the newer igniton systems.

Cheers and let us know once you clean and service the carbys and make sure the right plugs are in.

Huey.

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Hi Mate, the spark wants to jump a 1/2 gap on a spark tester. Your comression numbers are good if that is still the case. The correct plug for a mid 1980s 85HP Suzuki is NGK B8HS-this is the plug for upto a 1993 model. After that they want to run a BR8HS, which basically is the same plug but a resitor type for the newer igniton systems.

Cheers and let us know once you clean and service the carbys and make sure the right plugs are in.

Huey.

Huey,

thanks - definately have the correct plugs

Checked the serial No's by the way and it's an 81 model I think.

extended idling in older 2 strokes is just asking for the plugs to foul up. always carry spare(new) plugs so u can replace them whilst on the water if something like this ever happens again. 2 strokes and plugs go hand in hand

Dangles,

Due to my aversion to the embarrassment of being towed to the ramp, I always carry spare plugs - usually cleaned plugs that were replaced at the last service, some 800 wet & dry for cleaning, a spare priming bulb, a spare inline filter, self amalgamating tape, hose joiner, fuel conector, zip ties, fuses & basic tools. (amongst other bits & pieces)

Did I mention that I hate being towed ?

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Probably not the answer he was looking for Macka !

Ross

Sorry Ross.

Just that, with a donk that old. Regardless of condition. I'd have at least an auxilliary, Just for such an occasion.

I take a 15hp out with me.(From rooftopper.) use as auxilliary. But. Also perfect for trolling.with 5.25 Stacer.

Maybe time to be looking for a loan.

Regards

macka17

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All good advice but the water on the plugs worries me , this should not occur.

Were all the plugs wet or just one.

My suggestion , do a compression test first , if that's OK then look at some of the other areas

Geoff

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Hi Geoff, I think when he says the plugs were wet he is meaning that they are wet with fuel. Is that the case Tryhard? If not and as Geoff suggests if it is water than you have a blown head gasket or worse corrosion in the block letting water into the combustion chamber. Taste the plugs and if they are salty you have a problem.

Cheers,

Huey.

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Hi Geoff, I think when he says the plugs were wet he is meaning that they are wet with fuel. Is that the case Tryhard? If not and as Geoff suggests if it is water than you have a blown head gasket or worse corrosion in the block letting water into the combustion chamber. Taste the plugs and if they are salty you have a problem.

Cheers,

Huey.

I must admit to not taste testing the plugs !

As they dried reasonably quickly, I am assuming they were wet with fuel !

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